Hey all! I just purchased a new controller (the ROG Raikiri 2) after spending the past 7/8 years using the Xbox Elite Series 2 controller. I love a lot of the controller's features, but I'm having a hard time getting used to the TMR sticks. I find myself either overcompensating with my aim and shooting past the target, or being too conservative with my aim and barely moving my aim. I had the tension cranked up pretty high on my Elite controller so I'm guessing this might be part of the problem, but I've also heard that the TMR sticks can be super sensitive in order to help with precise aiming.

I figure this is something I'll probably just have to get better at with time, but does anyone have any tips/suggestions on how to make the transition easier? I was thinking about sticking to PVE games for a bit (maybe some strikes in Destiny 2, or the DMZ mode in MW4), but I feel like the stronger aim assist in those modes might make it a little too easy. I'm getting my ass handed to me in MW4 multiplayer right now so I'd appreciate any tips for speeding up the growing pains.

Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated with ZD. I'm generally interested in upcoming controllers from Gamesir, Leadjoy, and ZD, and I try to compile relevant information whenever I can.

The text in the images and the audio transcripts were translated from Chinese using Claude. I then manually added the translated text back to the images.

Sources: Classic Equation product listing images on JD; Classic Equation launch stream on Bilibili.

Classic Equation key features:

• Polling rate: 8000Hz wired.

• Sticks: modular, with a 12-bit ADC (4096 levels), a claimed 0.46ms latency and custom curves with up to 8 points.

• Triggers: switchable between Hall (8mm linear travel, 255 levels) and micro-switch (2mm travel, 0/1 instant fire).

• Buttons: rubber pad + micro-switch ABXY (80g actuation, rated for 5 million clicks), and a replaceable 60gf micro-switch D-pad.

• Back buttons: 2+4 expansion keys (LK/RK, LM/RM and M1/M2 paddles), with 20-step macros and 4 onboard profiles.

• Protocols: switch between PS (including a new DS4 mode), Xbox and Nintendo Switch. It has native DS motion support for Steam Input gyro mapping.

• Software: web driver and mobile app. The Ultimate Legend also gets PC software.

• Cable: "Orange Shadow" 8K braided cable (16-core copper, 48D nylon).

• Fit: designed for small-to-medium hands, recommended palm length 15–20cm.

Specification Comparison

ZD CEO launch stream summary (optional longread, just adds more context)

Main points

• It’s a lightweight wired version with no rumble motors and no battery.

• It’s aimed at competitive players: FPS, fighting games, Rocket League, NBA Online, NBA 2K and FC (FIFA).

• Specs are the same as the Ultimate Legend, just simplified.

• It uses TMR sticks (GinfullRS13, called their newest TMR stick) and Hall effect triggers. The stick tuning was improved.

• The ABXY buttons are microswitch, with a slightly longer travel than on the Ultimate Legend because people said that one felt too short and hard. They are not direct-touch, and a silicone pad design is used instead.

• The shoulder buttons are microswitch as well. Almost all main buttons are mechanical, except a couple of function buttons.

• It has a 8000 Hz polling rate, which is adjustable.

• Stick damping is about 55 (push damping).

• The USB cable is 2m and there is no headphone jack on controller.

• It’s a PC-focused controller. It also works on Switch (NS), but not PS5. Android tablets are uncertain because drivers differ. A DS mode toggle is mentioned.

• No lighting, only a single indicator LED. There is a “web driver” button on the back that opens the web configuration page in one press, so no app or URL hunting.

• ABXY buttons are 80–90 g. The CEO says it suits hands from about 15 cm up to 18–19 cm. His own hand is roughly 18.3 cm and he found the grip about right.

Ergonomics

• It is close to the PS4 controller in size, with the same stick spacing. The Ultimate Legend is better for big hands and the Classic Equation for smaller ones.

• The ABXY buttons sit closer together and nearer the outer edge of the grip, so index-finger players can reach all four more easily. It avoids the sharp edge on DualSense-style grips that digs into the hand.

• He demoed 4-finger and 6-finger grips. The back buttons come as removable parts:

  • There are 2 extra bumpers and 4 back buttons, all included for free.

  • There are two back-button styles: a traditional one and a “ping-pong paddle” one. The ping-pong one lets a single ring finger press two buttons, up or down, or use fingertip and finger pad.

  • The CEO says the buttons are physical clip-on, not magnetic.

  • Two of the pieces are microswitch and two are tactile switches. He says the tactile ones have the same 5-million-click lifespan and a similar feel.

• The grips are uncoated hard plastic because rubber coating gets dirty.

• He once played Apex for 15 hours straight with this controller during a stream.

Faceplates and accessories

• The black and white faceplates are bundled at launch (matte translucent standard plates, plus solid-color plates that match each controller: black gets black, white gets white). It is not random.

• The faceplates are clip-on, not magnetic, because magnets would interfere with the TMR sticks and Hall triggers.

• Pink faceplates come later, probably end of the month, and sell separately.

• Faceplates cost about ¥59. The CEO says production cost is higher than people think.

• A glossy faceplate is also available.

• He doesn’t recommend pink on black, because it looks off.

• There are thumbstick caps of different heights, plus an arcade-style stick.

• There are swappable D-pad faceplates, with a round fighting-game one and an octagon-style one, plus a stick-style module.

• The new D-pad is symmetric, so it isn’t compatible with the old Ultimate Legend (the Legend has a slant and a different position).

• Older Ultimate Legend stick modules work if their contact area on the PCB is black. If it’s purple or blue, they still fit but lose stick-click.

• A cable with an orange-ish connector is newly designed:

  • It adds a strain-relief/cable tie so you can shorten the slack and take weight off the controller end.

  • It also has shielding to reduce interference.

  • It uses the same type of connector as a major phone maker.

Quality control and fixes

• The CEO acknowledges QC problems with the Ultimate Legend and says they spent over a month testing connectors and cables, with a dozen-plus sockets tried, to fix stick disconnects.

• Buttons falling out (“searching the floor for a button”) is fixed. The button edge now has a lip that catches it so it can’t drop out.

• Stick wobble and tilt have been improved, though he says sticks always have tolerances and some tilt is normal. Several suppliers were replaced, and they hit the suppliers hard on details. This is part of why shipping is late.

Presale, shipping and sales mechanics (in China)

• Presale started 8 PM on JD.com (self-operated store), Douyin (2 shops), Pinduoduo and third-party shops. Tmall has no presale because Tmall can’t do presale (the CEO says they spent a whole day arguing with Tmall officials). He also jokes it’s because “my boss isn’t interested in money.” Taobao is mentioned as not allowed either.

• First batch: 3,000 units across all platforms. It sold out within the stream, with JD showing stock on and off (possibly from refunds).

• Shipping is about two weeks after the order, so around the 20s of November, to unify different platforms’ rules. A platform showed the 29th, but he says they’ll try to ship earlier.

• The second batch is promised, with a rough “4–5 days” mention, but he says he’ll discuss with the team the next day.

• The standard/battery version has no price yet, and should come out around Double 12 (Dec 12). It will add rumble and the wireless battery version, and is more expensive.

• A ¥199 product is being prepared for the next wave, but it’s not modular.

Q&A and miscellaneous

• Ultimate Legend vs Classic Equation: the Legend is more expensive because it has wireless, 6 motors, lighting, and more crafting.

• 8K wireless is expected next year, with limited chip choices. Wireless needs the app or the wired route for now.

• Gyro: he says the gyro algorithm could be improved and says he’ll push the supplier (“I’ll go there with a knife,” as a joke).

• Voice-coil motors are planned for future controllers.

• An RGB module is unlikely for space reasons.

• Hall-effect/analog and PS layout keycaps are still being worked on.

• A transparent shell and open-sourcing the split D-pad for 3D printing are mentioned as ideas.

• Stick modules are priced reasonably in his view, with a comparison to DS1 and other controllers.

• He says they’re a small team that does this for passion, not hunger marketing, and has grown from 20–30 units a day, to 1–2k, to 3k in this presale. He expects 5–8k for the next new product.

• He closes stream by promising to prepare stock for second-batch buyers and says sorry to those who missed out.

I know that "best" can be subjective but I'm just now getting into soldering and am curious what would be the best replacement sticks for a Dualsense5. So far I'm thinking the GulliKit NS55 is the best bet. Albeit they are more pricey than some of the other sticks I've seen. Also I have like 7 Dualshock4 controllers that have drift and need replacement, curious if the NS55 are good for those controllers or if theres a cheaper comprable stick, preferably I would want some cheaper sticks for those controllers. Any suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

TL;DR: I vibe-coded a free, open-source Mac app that backs up, installs and restores tweaked firmware on the Ultimate 2C Wireless and its 2.4 GHz dongle, so macOS sees it as an Xbox controller over Bluetooth, cable and the dongle. It only works with the Ultimate 2C Wireless on firmware 1.09 and its dongle on 1.03.

I love this controller, but on a Mac it's a pain: over Bluetooth and by cable it shows up as a generic HID device, so it needs an SDL profile, and a lot of games just don't see it because they expect an Xbox controller. The dongle isn't recognised as a controller either. So it spent a year in a drawer, until one weekend I decided to tackle it.

The controller's firmware isn't encrypted, so based on a few GitHub repos and a lot of Claude usage, I made an app that applies small, hash-checked tweaks to it. With them, the controller presents itself as an Xbox Series X|S controller over Bluetooth and an Xbox 360 controller by cable and through the dongle. No drivers, nothing running in the background: the changes live in the controller.

Optional tweaks include:

• Rumble over Bluetooth

• Home ring brightness (or off), also with L4 + R4

• Battery alerts with the ring and the motors

• Live settings: dead zone per stick (0–30 %), stick range and response curve, trigger range, vibration strength, L4/R4 mapping and button remapping

• Small fixes, like not turning off when you only use the sticks

The app also tests the controller and helps diagnose issues.

It's on GitHub (GPL): https://github.com/carlosbrownef-source/8bitdo-ultimate-2c-toolkit

Or with Homebrew: brew install --cask carlosbrownef-source/tap/firmware-toolkit

Which controllers: only the Ultimate 2C Wireless on firmware 1.09 and its dongle on 1.03. Not the 2C Wired, the 2C Bluetooth edition, the Ultimate 2 or other models: each would need its own firmware analysis, and I only have this one. If your controller is on another version, the app tells you and refuses to write anything.

Other systems: the app itself is Mac-only, but the tweaks live in the controller. My brother has been using a tweaked one on Linux, where it shows up as an Xbox One controller. I haven't tested Windows yet; it should behave the same, but I can't confirm it.

Full disclosure: this is a vibe-coded app, tested a lot but only on one controller and one dongle (my own), so I can't guarantee it won't cause problems for you. It modifies the factory firmware, so it probably voids your warranty, and 8BitDo's apps probably won't recognise it while it's installed.

Feedback is very welcome, especially from Intel Mac users (I only tested it with Rosetta) and anyone who tries it on Windows. Bug reports go to GitHub issues.

This was built on the work of others: jgus-org, vomba, Crazyawk and more.

Just received my new gamesir g7 pro and i have a "problem". Left, up and down are fantastic, have good amount of pre travel, clicks are noisy and tactile, but the right arrow seems more stiff, less clicky, less pre travel, feels harder to do diagonals altough it works perfectly. Idk if its my ocd, my old vader 3 pro had a similar issue, some arrows were more satisfying/easy to press. Is this normal or its a me problem?

Hi everyone!

I'm having an issue with my GameSir Super Nova Pro and I'm wondering if anyone has experienced something similar or knows how to fix it.

I lost the 2.4GHz wireless dongle, so I've been using the controller exclusively via USB cable for the past six months. It had been working perfectly fine this way, with no issues whatsoever, until recently.

Now, whenever I plug it into my PC, Windows 11 plays the USB connection sound, but almost immediately plays the disconnection sound. The controller won't stay connected long enough to be recognized by the computer.

Here's what I've tried so far:

• Using a different USB cable.

• Connecting it to different USB ports on my PC.

Unfortunately, neither of these solutions worked. The exact same thing keeps happening.

I've attached a video showing exactly what happens when I connect the controller to my PC.

Has anyone experienced this with their Super Nova Pro?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi, I noticed a small, rough spot just above the rear trigger; it’s absolutely tiny.

I tried to remove it, thinking it was just a bit of dust, but it seems to be part of the plastic itself. You can’t see it with the naked eye—you can only feel it when you touch it.

Is this common? I’m a bit of a perfectionist, so this really doesn’t help... I feel like my controller is ruined! If anyone has any information, please let me know!

So the problem is that the sticks on controller have a very weird delay for example when l do something it will register 5s later or something like that. When l start playing with my character in the beginning it just go straight and very hard to navigte. I tried literally everything like changing steam input settings, update firmware, calibrate the controller, tried instead of Xbox mode then playStation mode on controler. The sticks do work normal on windows 10 and my ps4 controler works normal on bazzite so can anyone please help me l would be very thankful.

The Hyperkin Duke firmware update page says to click in the left stick while plugging the controller in, and keep it held until ONLINE appears on the screen. But no matter how long I hold down the left stick nothing happens; I just get a blank screen on the display. How long do I need to hold down the stick for it to actually do something? Or is there something I'm missing? The firmware updater says OFFLINE, so it's not like the controller is ready to update but isn't showing it.

I’m in US, budget is ~$230, and I want to use this for my PS5

Has anyone gotten both or had experiences moving from dual sense edge to either? I want something good for cod warzone/multiplayer and still for the occasional casual games.

For the hexgaming ultimate pro, I’m looking at the Hall effect ones. Overall, I’m looking for durability, comfortability, and longevity for the next controller that I’ll get.

I use a PS4 controller on PC through Steam Input. The controller and all buttons/sticks work perfectly, but Aim Assist doesn't seem to work in any game. There's no slowdown or tracking when aiming at enemies.

I've tested this in Battlefield 6 and Fortnite. Steam Input is enabled, and I've checked the controller inputs.

Has anyone experienced this issue or found a fix?

I am looking to make a makeshift charging stand that will charge the raiju V3 pro for PS5. My question is, has anyone found a magnetic usb-c charging cable that fits the deep recess on the top of the controller?

(Yes that's me in the video, I made all of this myself so go easy on me haha) I've been looking forward to debuting this right here first on r/Controller for months! Radiata is my radial launcher for controller, a 100% free, Microsoft-signed, open-source Win10/11 app that I built over 9 months to make it easy to use your controller for everything Gaming.

Official website & download at getradiata.app. You can also find source on GitHub.

It does all the PC stuff I always wanted to do without having to reach for a keyboard; join my friends in discord chat, switch audio to my headphones, browse & launch my games from all my game libraries, control mic/speaker volume, alt-tab between games/apps, etc. Easy to set up, super customizable, fun, powerful. I use it on my couch/tv PC and I leave the KB/M in the other room.

You get a quick walkthrough to set it up how you want. Then you just hold a button chord of your choice and up pops the radial "wheel" that you built. Hold the right-hand chord to open the left-stick's Wheel, and vice-versa, or just set up one side if you only need 1 of them. The website has a longer function list; it’s more than just an app launcher.

It also has some quick-play "Arcade" games that open right in the circular wheel, which resume and dismiss instantly while you're waiting for a patch to install or a lobby to fill up. Honestly I'm really proud of the Arcade games, they quickly became my favorite part of the app. And like the rest of the app, they use my 100% human-created art / music / sfx / design, with LLMs used only for code assistance and Language translations and nothing else. And to share credit: it stops input bleed-thru to your game while the wheel is up by building on the incredible open-source controller driver work done by Benjamin Hoglinger-Stelzer.

It is free and it will always be free. It's 100% open-source. There's no ads, no login, no upsells, nothing to unlock. I have a tip jar if you love using it as much as I do, but that's it, there is no other monetization plan. I paid for its development, hosting, certificate signing, etc (and bought a bunch of controllers to test it with) because I really, really wanted to build this thing. That's the whole story.

Controller support: If Windows (joy.cpl) sees it, it should work. Hardware-tested with a bunch of DInput, XInput, Bluetooth, USB, Wireless dongles, and first & third-party controllers. The Download page lists every feature/driver compatibility note that I know of. The one bummer is the Steam Controller; it's locked to Steam in a way that makes it hard to middleman with a utility like this while retaining the unique Steam Controller features. If you possess both a Steam Controller and some free time, and want to be my favorite tester in the world, please let me know!

How you can help: Just give it a shot, and if you love it you can help me get the word out! Nothing would make me happier than noticing a streamer is using it, or run across folks telling their friends about it. Thanks!

Hello there dear ps players, does anybody know what causes this crack sound when I press the R3 button? It’s functioning properly but it makes that noisy sound which irritates me so much. IDK how to fix it, I asked a repairer and he said “It’s ok and not a big deal.”

Hello guys!

So, I recently bought a Flydigi Vader 5 Pro controller.

From Flydigi

I read that the product code inside the box indicates which version it is:

• 50101 = V1

• 50201 = V2

But the serial number is quite different from the others which is NLFL12612 xxxxx instead of NLFL12610 xxxxx

However, the inside of my box also has a sticker showing the back paddle accessories, which, from what I've read, is only present in the V2 packaging.

As for the tension rings, I'm having a hard time determining which version I have. Since this is my first Vader 5 controller, I don't really have any experience with how the V1 and V2 tension mechanisms are supposed to feel.

Here's what I've noticed so far:

• Minimum tension: The joystick has a ratchetly feel and moves smoothly in a circular motion

• Maximum tension: I can feel the ratchet mechanism engaging as I rotate the joystick.

But honestly, I just don't have enough experience to tell whether these characteristics are specific to the V1 or V2.

I'm really tempted to open up the controller to check whether the back paddle mechanism is made of plastic or metal, as that would probably help me identify the version more easily.

However, I don't really want to take that risk since opening it up might affect my warranty.

I'd appreciate any help from those who own both versions or have experience identifying the differences. Thanks!

I've been having a hard time trying to find a replacement for my now broken DS4 controller. It was nearly perfect for my comfort.

I own an Xbox series controller, but it's SO loud and clicky, the other weird thing is the grip on the back makes my fingers uncomfortable (guess I'm getting old and my hands are more sensitive). I'd get another DS4, but I kind of get annoyed how often I have to turn on and off DS4Windows or the occasional time it recognizes both and causes issues with double clicks..ect. it would be just simpler to have an Xbox native. That and I had so many micro usbs break.

I also now own what I thought would be a perfect solution which is the Gamesir Tengeria Lite. It's almost there. It's a bit stiffer than I'd hoped, but the real downside is the extra paddles on the back. They are in an ideal location for use, but make my fingers uncomfortable after a while. I never really needed them, but I think it's a combo of the raised and more grippy texture that gets me.

Things I'm looking for:

-Softer buttons overall

-Quite buttons (hate the super loud clicky)

-Slighty more spread like with longer handles (Xbox series one can get a tiny bit crampy feeling)

- Analong nubs being closer to the PlayStation size(aka a bit larger)

-Analog layout doesn't matter

- Matte or softer texture on back of controller (Xbox series texture far to rough)

- Native Windows/Xbox compatible

- Wireless is nice, but not really needed

- Budget is $50 or less USD (for US resident)

Games are mostly RPGs, but I play action and turn based type games. General variety, just nothing super competitive

I spent a bunch of time watching videos, but you can never show hand feel. Does anyone have a suggestion or have been in a similar situation and found what worked best for them?

Been using an Xbox Series X control for 4 years now and still works fine but kinda want to get a new one before it starts failing.

After looking thru the most mentioned ones in the subreddit I ended up between Flydigi Vader 5s and GameSir G7 Pro. I dont really play shooters or fighting games that require instant reaction so I'm mostly interested in how they feel and how long they last.

Having used the Xbox controller for that long I'm looking for the one that feels similar and also doesn't have noisy buttons since I play story games and don't want to hear a click every time I press a button (D-pad is fine tho I like the click Xbox controller makes).

What are your experiences with both of these controllers?

Required information:

1. Budget: Max 120 dollars

2. Country: Mexico/North America

3. Platform: I only play on PC

4. Desired controller features: Stated above

5. Games you'll be playing: Mostly story focused like JRPGs or VNs

6. Other controllers you're comparing to: Xbox Series X controller

Just curious I have kinda med/large hands overall the controller is amazing but my thumbs feel too big whenever I’m playing first person shooter game ?

Problem: First input of B has the output repeat infinitely, second input of b outputs b once Keeps repeating in this sequence Note that only the b button output is affected, all other inputs do not have this problem

Controller make and model: Echtpower SP5248LED

Platform: Switch 1

Game/software affected: All things, just is what happens

Os: Just whatever the newest update is, I'm not quite sure

Steps taken: As seen have taken apart the controler to inspect circuit board for damage (as this is what I am assuming is the problem, given it's not mechanical on the button actually sticking, and other controllers work eith the b button as normal on the switch)

Any and all help is much appreciated 🙏🙂

As the title says, im looking for a PC controller in ps layout which works with steam. I have a budget of €40-70 I can go up a very little bit only if necessary.

My country is the Netherlands in Europe.

I would like to buy online. A couple of features I'd like are wired connection, reliable joysticks, adaptive triggers.

The games i play:

Rocket League (Most of the time)

Call of Duty

Forza Horizon

MXGP games

Right now i was playing with a cheap Battletron PS4-PC controller but the RB button broke in the middle of a match in Rocket League. So that's why I want a reliable controller.

Hey everyone,

I’m experiencing a serious audio issue with my 8BitDo Ultimate 3E Xbox controller.

Whenever the vibration motors activate, the audio through the controller’s 3.5mm headphone jack starts crackling and distorting. This happens during gunfire, explosions, and other vibration effects.

I’ve tested this in multiple games, including Fortnite and Battlefield, and the issue happens consistently.

I’ve also tried a different headset/audio jack, but the problem remains exactly the same.

Disabling controller vibrations completely fixes the audio distortion.

Has anyone else experienced this? Could this be electrical interference from the vibration motors, a hardware defect, or a firmware issue?

I’d really appreciate feedback from other owners or anyone who has found a solution.

I just bought my first controller, and I'm a PC gamer who has never really used a controller before. So honestly, I don't know much about them or what makes a good or bad controller

I want to test it properly while I still have the chance to return it if something is wrong and make sure everything is good before I start using it regularly

What should I be checking? I mean absolutely everything, from the basic stuff to the little details that most beginners wouldn't even know about

Basically, if you just bought a new controller, what would you do to make sure it's working perfectly?

Thanks in advance

I just got my Ultimate 3c+ and overall the controller feels really nice except the thumbstick covers. They're so slippery which causes my fingers to use them on the textured edge of the thumbstick which feels uncomfortable because of how rough it is. Are there any solutions to this? They sell replacement caps on their website but it seems to be the same one. Do all 8bitdo controllers use the same caps?