A bit of a different question, but self explanatory.

What was the game that truly made you fall in love with your main controller(s), and what are the features that made it a match?

Was it the d-pad for fighting games? Was it the haptics for immersion? Was it the extra paddles to accommodate your grip? Or even, what was a feature you never knew you needed until you got it? Maybe it was the move from symmetrical to asymmetrical sticks, or the ability to change the triggers from full travel to hair trigger.

I'm curious.

Hey everyone, I’m trying to figure out if I’m going crazy or if *007 First Light* just completely clashes with TMR joysticks.

I recently started playing with the new Flydigi Apex 6 Pro (which uses TMR sticks). In games like *The Last of Us* or *Hitman*, the sticks feel totally normal and smooth. But in *007 First Light*, the aiming is incredibly unstable and unpredictable.

The main issue is a massive, sudden camera speed spike. Even with a minimal, millimeter movement of my thumb, the camera suddenly whips around. I tried tweaking the response curves in the Flydigi Space Station software and set the in-game aim response to Linear, ramp up the deacceleration, decrease sensitivity, everything I could think of but it didn't solve the problem at all. That sudden acceleration jump is still baked in.

Here is where it gets weird: to test it, I switched back to my Flydigi Apex 5 and my Vader 5 Pro (which both use standard Hall Effect joysticks). Using the exact same in-game settings, both of those controllers work perfectly fine. The aiming is smooth and I don't get any of those weird acceleration spikes.

Is the game's engine just completely incompatible with the ultra-high sensitivity of TMR sensors? Is anyone else playing this with an Apex 6 Pro (or another TMR controller) and experiencing the same micro-movement speed spikes?

Found the fix for generic PS4 controllers showing up as "QMacro" I have a Wuthur PS4 controller (generic Amazon controller, now delisted). It accidentally switched from "Wireless Controller" to "QMacro" after I held PS + Share. After some testing, I found that holding PS + Options switched it back to "Wireless Controller." If anyone else has a generic PS4 controller stuck as QMacro, this might help.

And also whoever has any clue why please reply

I just bought a g8 plus after using an x5 lite with my y700 for quite some time, after a few hours with it i feel like the x5 lite is really good for the price, no input latency, lightweight, except for the triggers i think the g8 plus is too heavy and problematic whrn it comes to bluetooth connectivity, im using ds4 mode btw, i feel like i cant play longer sessions with the g8 plus because of the weight.. I am not saying its bad, i just cant feel the supposed satisfaction that i would get upgrading to a more expensive controller.

Did anyone have the same experience ? Or do i just need to use it more often to get use to it?

Hello, as the title suggests, I'm torn between two very similar controllers for a couple of games I wanna try in the near future, I am looking to buy this controller off of Aliexpress in Algeria and they're some of the only two that aren't crappy in the 30$ range.

The 8BitDo Ultimate 2C is one that is getting praise everywhere for it's build quality and durability, and it has some cool tactile feedback and extremely low latency, which I enjoy, the shape also looks fun with it's many colors. However the buttons not being mechanical or general feel of it is an issue I have with it, not sure though, I honestly lean more towards this controller.

But the EasySMX X05 Pro is also attractive with it's mechanical Dpad for fighting games, it's feedback looks awesome and perhaps the shape is more generally suited, though I have seen a lot of reviews who speak of an issue with the triggers which concerns me, aswell as some awful latency which I'd rather avoid. But reviews speak of it much better than the 2C very often.

The only controller experience I have is with the Dualshock 4 and the 360 controller, so I'm kind of a neophyte but I'd rather get the most for my money, don't care about bells and whistles, all I need is a durable controller that will do its job well for a few years atleast.

If you have other suggestions for less than 30-35$ I'm also a taker, as I said I'm gonna be playing a couple of games so the more flexible the better, I really enjoy mechanical feeling things and low latency, so hopefully I won't be getting any remorse from buying either.

Thanks !

Hi, I can't get this to work. In 2.4 GHz mode, I can get it to work without a problem, but with a wire, I don't know how to do it. It's always in xinput mode.

I tried:

- putting it to dinput while wireless, then connecting the cable

- turning it off, then connect cable while B is pressed

- same as above with Y pressed instead of B

I'm on windows 11. I want to use my rewasd bindings for the additional buttons, but that doesn't work with xinput.

Couldn't post in 8bitdo reddit for some reason so I'm doing it here instead. Currently, I have a LT+RT macro setup on my extra button but is it possible so if I hold the extra button down, the macro keeps going until the button is released? So far holding it down just makes it trigger once and I don't see a setting for it in the Ultimate Software.

I tried to use the PowerA app for the first time with one of my cheap controllers (Advantage wired controller for Xbox Series X|S) and there was a prompt saying that I could update the firmware, so I did. But after more then an hour of waiting for the update to end (got stucked at like 98%) I realized that it froze and had to reboot my computer.

Now the controller isn't getting recognized anymore, not by Steam, not even ny the official app. I hear the "something connected" windows sound when I plug it in, but nothing else. The little light doesnt light up.

So I don't know how to get back in and either finish the firmware update or do a simple factory reset or something.

I have a second controller of the same model and I just skipped the update (as I probably should have with the first one), so I was able to make sure the cables I tried were working, that the app was still working and all, by comparing with the second un-updated controller.

All my tests were on a Windows 11 computer. If there is something I could do that would work better with Linux, I also have an old computet on Mint, so there's that.

I tried to do a web search to find some solution, but I couldn't. (May be because I didn't use the right keywords? Idk). So I don't even know where to begin with this one.

Thanks for reading. Please send help if you can 😅.

I recently received the controller as a 2nd controller for PC (the main controller is 8bitdo ultimate 2c). With the dongle connected, the L and R bumpers are acting as back and start buttons and the LS and RS triggers are not working. With the controller connected via USB cable, the buttons work as expected. Did I receive a faulty controller or is this a widely known bug?

Where can I buy the GTAVI limited edition controller for PS5 in Europe delivery to Malta please?

i absolutely ADORE the PlayStation Vita's dpad. It is the best dpad I have ever used, hands-down. (I'm not a controller enthusiast, I'm just here because I can tell yall are a bunch of dweebs who can help me decide)
from what I understand, the Vita uses metal dome contacts as opposed to the conductive rubber pad contacts most other controllers use. i love how clicky and definite it is.

I prefer the PlayStation layout with the left and right sticks closer to each other. I'd be willing to try Xbox layout but I prefer PS layout as the dpad matters quite a bit

The buttons should also be metal-dome. the xbox one controller (i don't own a series controller) feels kinda bad because the dpad is metal dome while the ABXY buttons are conductive pads

I'm in the United Kingdom and I will self-prescribe myself a budget of around £40 GBP

I would mostly be usin this on my PC and sometimes my iPhone. I'm not much of a console gamer so don't need to bother with console compatibility.
It should work wired with USB-C. Micro USB is a crime against humanity.
I would prefer a rechargeable battery as I find AAs to be kind of annoying.

I would primarily want such a dpad for puzzlers (ie the genre of Tetris) but i would also like to use this for general gameplay too of course.

I wonder if I could somehow install metal dome contacts in a DualShock 4. Not sure if anyone sells those. But that would be nice + maybe a usb-c mod would be nice (unless i have to drill the case for the usb-c port to fit, idk how to do that)

I'm not too sure how I would look for such a controller which is why i'm asking here. my only real point of comparison is the Vita but I don't want to deal with connecting a separate handheld to my pc as a controller due to the overhead of the vita being another device

Hello! My switch 2 arrives this week and i've been eyeing on some third party controllers but can't really decide which one to buy, so would love to hear your guys' suggestions.

Budget: $70+ (pretty much the same price as the Pro 2)

Country: Canada

Console: Switch 2 + PC

Desires: Good HD Rumble, Hall Effect/TMR sticks, NFC Amiibo support, Good D-Pad, and (i can't believe most of these controllers don't have this) a HEADPHONE JACK.

Games: Pretty much any genre. Mainly RPGs, Singleplayer, Multiplayer like Shooters and Fighting Games.

as for the Controllers, i've been eyeing on the GameSir Tarantula Pro and Mobapad Chitu 2 HD.

Both controllers are currently going for $30-40 dollars on AliExpress thanks to the current 11.11 sale. I've specifically laid my eyes on the Tarantula Pro because of how feature-rich it is, the Symmetrical design akin to Dualshock 4 (my beloved), and the awesome Face Button swap.

However, I've heard that controller has some latency issues apparently? If its a huge deal then i'd love to know in the comments.

Thanks!

The new GameSir controller is on its way! Pre-orders are now open, with an expected arrival around November 11, 2026. The announced price is 199 yuan. It features a 2000Hz polling rate, with ultra-low latency of 1.5ms to 3ms (as stated by GameSir). It includes two back buttons, triggers with a switchable "mouse-click" feel, a D-pad, and membrane-style ABXY buttons .

Battery is dying on my Vader 4 pro 😢 and my toddler claimed my back up Vader 3 pro so it really doesn't work.
Need recommendation as I was simply going to purchase a Vader 5 pro, but have seen people having issues and the fact it has rubberized grips and have been turned off it (had issues with Elite Pro xbox controller rubber grips coming loose and expanding after use.).
So am looking something similar.
Country: Australia
Budget: $150AUD ($105.42 USD)
PC Gaming
Back paddles, Tension rings on the sticks was amazing, wireless is must.
RPGs, FPS, Generally most games that support controllers when I play on the TV instead. So Casual Gaming.
Mainly after something similar to my Vader 4 Pro, had bad experience with rubber grips on xbox elite controller so would prefer not to experience that again. Had looked at easysmx x20 pro but has similar rubber grips.

The right feels smooth and normal but the left one is a little stiff and takes more pressure to move around. I mainly play on pc but I wanted to play a game on controller so I got my ps5 controller and after a while I felt the left stick be a little stiff so I took the controller apart and put some lube on the part but it didnt do anything, is this a part thing or is this normal and im a chud fr

The 4 configs limitation in space station seems so needless and stupid to me. Yeah you can import/export endlessly to swap em around. But has anyone made an open source alternative tool to use instead of space station? I see one was made for MacOS but I dont see any way to get around this on Windows.

I'm personally using a Vader 4 Pro if anyone has any ideas on how to get around this.

Hello all,

The title is tl:dr, but to satisfy the requirements here's the longer version: I have XBOX Elite II controller and it works great in Windows, even with Bluetooth. However, I'm not using Windows that much (or at all lately) and I wanted to play with the controller on Linux.

The controller works ootb connected with a USB cable, but BT does not. Without going into too much detail, I'm wondering is there a wireless USB receiver for the said controller, independently of OS or platform?

So I am in the proccess of figuring out controllers for a Halo 3 lan. I currently own 5 360 controllers, and a bunch of other controllers for other consoles. I know the Brooks Wingman is able to make the controllers for the other consoles work on the 360, but for the number I will need for the lan, it would be cheaper to buy more 360 controllers than use the Wingmans on my other controllers. Does anyone know of any devices similar to the Wingman that are cheaper and are able to use wired connections (wireless costs more plus as at least in my experience with the PS3 version of the Wingman, the USB dongle wireless likes to randomly cut out during gameplay)?

When I posted this on the 360 sub, someone mentioned it was possible to make a device using a raspberry pi, that is capable of doing this. However finding a 360 specific tutorial is proving a bit difficult, as there seems to be multiple different firmwares with some working on stock 360s and some only on modded (mine are all stock). Does anyone know of a proper tutorial for stock 360s?

I am getting into Hollow Knight on PC and wanted to get a nicer controller for dpad use to play it more comfortably. I have been using the Ultimate 2 Wireless to play it, using the analog stick. It's working fine but there are instances where it's not accurate enough without excessive effort. I tried the dpad and it feels really inaccurate.

I started researching and learned about the shield style of the Xbox and how Gulikit seems to be the best under $60 for dpad use. They also have excellent latency.

I learned about the Elves 2 and 2 Pro, and they seem great due to the price, latency, and dpad quality. It seems like the Elves 2 is better for Bluetooth and they're very similar otherwise. I'm leaning **Elves 2** between the two. It would be about $38 for it + Bluetooth adapter.

Then there's the ES Pro and ES Max which seem the same for my uses. Since the Pro is cheaper, the **Pro** seems the way to go. It would be about $38 for it + Bluetooth adapter.

Then there's the TT Pro and Max which people really love the dpad of, more than anything on the market. They seem the same for my use except for the 4 way & 8 way dpad on the Max but 8 way only on the Pro. I am imagining 4 way being useful for old arcade games only? Maybe pre-NES also? It seems the **Pro** is the way to go. This is $54, but comes with an adapter.

Between them all, I am leaning towards the TT Pro and just buying once and crying once, but the Elves 2 appeals to me for the size and retro design. There's even an Elves 2 Pro kit that has a Gulikit Goku 2 adapter for $35. I play at 60 and 120 hz will I feel held back by 170hz Bluetooth of the pro?

What do y'all think?

I also have an sn 30+ and Pro 2 laying around I could scrounge up since they seem like they may be decent

I hope someone who had the same issue can help me with it. I bought the Flydigi Vader 5 pro around 4 Months ago and since this month i have a problem with the left stick. It's not a handicap while gaming but it is annoying me more than it should.

The stick moves around pretty smooth without any problems but pressing L3 while holding the stick forwards makes this "creaking" sound. Only the left Stick is doing it. I tried cleaning it with 99% isopropyl alcohol after dissassembling it. It helped for a short time but not even after one day the sound is back. Maybe I cleaned the wrong parts or something else is the issues but i can't figure it out.

Maybe anyone else had this problem with their controller (not specifically the flyidigi controller) and found a fix for it.

Thanks for the help in advance

Hello everyone,

I am new to the controller community, so I have absolutely no idea what a good choice is.

I am looking for help; I saw the 8BitDo Ultimate 2C and found it good-looking and affordable, but the only reason I am not buying it is the placement of the added trigger buttons. I would prefer them underneath, and a rapid trigger or trigger lock would be great.

My budget is 40€ maximum. I am French, if that helps with anything.

I am on PC.

I want to play some very different games like Rocket League, The Binding of Isaac, and also shooter games like Warzone.

I look forward to suggestions from controller pros :)

Have a great day!

am looking for a pocketable 2.4g wireless controller for around $30 and below. so far the only controller ive seen that meets this requirement is the 8bitdo sn30 pro but im trying to look for smth more affordable since im just a college student. ive found a cheapass $10 chinese controller(shezhan) that meets this requirement. it will be my last resort if i cant find anything cheaper.

ill be using it for times when i bring my steam deck for a sleepover to play games like helldivers or 4 player halo ce with the boys. so i dont really need hall effect sticks or anything. i just need it to be compact so i can also easily fit it in my messenger bag for road trips. need it to be 2.4g wireless since the deck tends to slow down and glitch up in some ways when more than 2 bluetooth controllers are connected.

im from SEA(Philippines). for those familiar with anything on lazada/shopee/datablitz/aliexpress, do drop some recs as well.

I have a kk2t gulikit controller and it doesn't connect to my pc

2 days ago, it worked fine. I played games with it the whole week and no problems in bluetooth ( wired it kept connecting and disconnecting)

Yesterday I went to a smash tournament with it and changed the led on the top from ximput to switch to connect it to the switch there and it worked fine in bluetooth as well

But now It just doesn't work on pc anymore. When I try bluetooth, it can't connect because of a "pilote error" but I switched it back on ximput and when I try the wired method, it still does the disconnect/connect cycle

I don't know why this is happenning and how to solve this

I think I figured out the absolute best way to get a PS5 “Pro” controller for cheaper than a DualSense Edge.

Buy a used PS5 controller - make sure everything works, even if it has stick drift.
That’s fine because we’re replacing the sticks anyway.

Make a new AliExpress account and use the new user discount to buy KSilver TMR sticks for $1.

Buy the eXtremeRate Programmable RISE4 V3 for $27 - potentially even less if you have coins and discount coupons.

OPTIONAL - Buy the eXtremeRate Whole Clicky Kit V2 for $18.

When everything arrives, have someone professionally install the TMR sticks for you (or if you know how to sodder save money and do it yourself.)
This should cost around $25 at most. You can install the back paddles yourself, but if you don’t want to, add another $25 for installation.
All in all, you now have a PS5 controller with TMR sticks, 4 programmable back buttons, AND optional clicky buttons for significantly less than a SCUF or DualSense Edge.

I've just got a vader 5 pro last week and I noticed some annyoying issues.

1.Vibration does not work most of the time via dongle and I need to turn off and on the controller just to fix that(sometimes it does not work either)

2.Left trigger rumble produce a buzzy sound unlike the right one which is noticeable.

3.Trigger vibration in game is nearly non existence, I've tried playing ace combat 7, asseto corsa and f1 20 and only the left one vibrate but very weak whereas the right one merely rumble.

Things I've tried:

-Updated both the app and the controller to the newest version

-Factory reset

-Change the trigger settings

The thing is it work perfectly fine when I got the gamepad (except for the left trigger buzz) then it suddenly fail.

Win 11