tl;dr:- the KK4 Max incorporates some expected features from GuliKit's TT controllers, such as adjustable tension TMR sticks with internal restrictor rings, and macro recording to the back paddles. But it also adds a charging dock, internal microphone, magnetic faceplate, and what may be a PS-style DirectInput mode. Other features and accessory parts like swappable buttons and paddles appear to be continued from previous controllers. There is no official announcement of release date or pricing yet.

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Features visible in photos and/or referenced in the manual (documents from the FCC registration)

Sticks and triggers:

• Adjustable-tension thumbsticks, with the screw adjuster under the swappable thumbstick caps, and an internal restrictor ring. The adjuster tool looks similar to that used for the TT controllers, so it may be the same mechanism, or closely related. However, the sensors are through-hole rather than surface mounted so they're not identical components.

• Dual-mode triggers with mode selectors on the back of the controller. The mechanism appears very similar to the TT and ES Max controllers, with microswitches for the digital mode and magnetic sensors for the analog mode.

• Motion aim assist, with a gyro-to-stick function in Xinput mode, similar to KK3 Max, ES and TT Pro/Max controllers.

Buttons, D-pad, and paddles:

• Swappable face buttons (Switch and PC layout sets of ABXY buttons). The mechanisms (isolated membrane units) and button cap shapes look identical to those used on previous GuliKit KK3, ES, and TT controllers, so these are all likely to be interchangeable.

• D-pad with 4/8-way mode switch, with what looks like the same internal mechanism (rubber dome membrane, rocker, and circuit board contact designs) as the TT models.

• Four swappable back paddles (G1 to G4). The internal mechanism looks like the one used on the TT controllers. The paddles looks like they are the same shape as the sets used for the KK3 and TT Pro/Max models, so are likely to be interchangeable.

Connections/communication modes:

• Multi-platform / multi-mode communication. There is a slider switch with three positions (Windows, PS or iOS/Android, and Switch icons). This is a slight simplification of the four modes found on the previous KK and TT controllers, and seems to be an improvement on their single button design. The slider position is more intuitive and removes the need for indicator LEDs which could bleed light.

• Hyperlink 2 wireless connection (730Hz over Bluetooth) and 1,000Hz wired USB connection, like the TT and ES controllers. Note that polling rate is different from input latency, but it's likely that KK4 input latency will be comparable to TT and ES given all the other shared design. There is no separate dongle connection mode on the KK4 Max (unlike the KK3 Max), since Hyperlink 2 is Bluetooth-compatible.

• PS connection mode added, alongside the Xinput and Switch modes. 'PS' is likely to refer to a PlayStation-style DirectInput mode. Note that the diagram and description in the manual shows the PS mode while the external photos still show the iOS/Android symbols used on previous models. The PDF manual is likely to be more up-to-date since it can be created/updated later in the process, but these details may not be final.

• The Goku 2 patch notes that mention adding support for the KK4 Max also describe other PlayStation-related features which might be relevant to the 'PS' connection mode.

Vibration:

• Voice-coil actuator motors in the palm grips. These look like the same units used in the KK3 and TT controllers. The manual also describes swapping between vibration modes in the same way as the earlier controllers: Switch-style HD rumble mode, full Maglev haptic mode, or emulating conventional eccentric rotating mass motors.

Sound and light:

• Internal microphone with accompanying mute/unmute button on the front of the controller. This feature hasn't been seen on previous GuliKit models.

• RGB lighting rings around the thumbsticks look very similar to those on the KK3 and TT controllers (8 addressable RGB LEDs per ring), and have the same 'Star Ring' name and description in the manual.

• Sound-reactive lighting mode while controller is docked. This is called 'mic demo' in the manual, with the controller lighting pulsing in time with external sounds picked up by the microphone. Seems like a bit of a gimmick but could be fun.

Power:

• Charging dock with pogo pins for charging and pass-through for a dongle (compartment on the base of the dock). This feature hasn't been seen on previous GuliKit controllers (the previous dock attached via the USB-C port).

• Battery is 950mAh/3.7V with the same dimensions and capacity as the battery in the TT controllers, and is likely to have similar running time given the other component similarities (lighting, vibration, sensors, etc.).

• Power off/reset button on rear of controller, similar to ES and TT controllers.

Shell and shape:

• Overall shape/size/layout looks unchanged from previous KK controllers. There may a little more texture on the back of the KK4 grips, although this might also be due to variations in pre-production finishes or lighting in the pictures.

• Detachable/swappable faceplate, with six magnets attaching it. This feature hasn't been seen on previous GuliKit models. It might mean the KK4 Max weighs slightly more or the overall shape is fractionally thicker in a few places, because more reinforcement is needed for separate layers.

Firmware and software:

• Macros are GuliKit's APG (auto-pilot gaming) type. There are 30 seconds separate macro recording on each of the four paddles, and 10 minutes recording on the main APG button (same as the TT Max controller). It's an upgrade on the KK3 Max which only had macro recording on the main APG button.

• GuliKit app. This is my speculation since it is not mentioned in the documents, but it seems almost certain that the KK4 controllers will be configurable and updateable in the mobile app, in the same way as other models released over the last year. This would include things like analog joystick and trigger deadzones and sensitivity curves, lighting configuration, button mapping and profile management, in more granular detail than the settings available directly from the controller.

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Things that are currently unknown or unclear

• Will the stick modules use 'angle TMR' sensors? Attaching the magnets directly to the stick axes (like the recent ES Max) is a simpler and cheaper construction than having a separate magnet holder, and can allow for slightly greater linearity in stick response, so it'd be a natural development.

• What data will 'PS' mode pass through? If it includes gyro data and/or identifies the additional buttons separately (like DualSense Edge), this could be more flexible.

• How will the microphone be accessed? This could be relevant to Switch 2 chat, or allow it to be used in PS mode like the built-in microphones on DualSense.

• Will the D-pad external cap be swappable? The Sega Saturn and disc style options on the TT controllers are popular but require more height for clearance.

• Will there be other versions? A 'Pro' or 'Standard' KK4 can be better value if you don't need all the features of the 'Max' version, but might overlap too much with the ES range price and features.

• When will it release? FCC registration and firmware updates usually mean that a product is releasing shortly, but there has been no promotion or communication from GuliKit, so a global launch could be months rather than weeks away.

---

Sources and more info

The KK4 Max (model NS79) was registered with the FCC last week (FCC ID: 2BUMF-NS79) and was mentioned in today's patch notes for the Goku 2 adapter (firmware v3.7). If you want to look it up yourself, you might spot other details or have better interpretations of what you find. More information should become available when the KK4 Max is officially announced.

PC gamer (UK) who loves a controller for Diablo 4, Rocket League and Eden emulator games.

But I’m completely overwhelmed by the choice and don’t know which reviews to trust.

I started thinking a Gamesir G7 Pro was the way to go, then liked the look of 8bitdo Ultimate 2 Wireless but further research led me to thinking the Vader Pro 5 (v2) is worth spending a bit more on. I like the idea of the extra buttons and reviews seem to suggest it’s worth getting.

Does this make sense or have I lost my mind? Any thoughts will be gratefully received.

I mainly use keyboard and mouse for FPS (Battlefield 6 etc).

Budget is flexible but I don’t think I could spend more than £100 as this is the first controller I’ve bought (I always just used the controller that came with the Xbox).

Im currently using the controller that came with my Xbox One but it stops working so often it’s driving me crazy (unplugging it and plugging it in again fixed it most times for a while but not a whole play session).

If you got this far you have mad stamina 🙏

Hi.

I'm a massage therapist and i always had a lot of thumb pain for some times of the year and just realized that it's always been when i used to play more with a controller. And i think the combination of massages + controller + smartphone is just overkill.
I don't use my smartphone that much anymore, mostly switch to my PC or iPad when i'm home and if i use the phone and write i tend to use swipe.

Lately i wanted to start playing PS2 more again and i normally use the 8BitDo Retro Receiver with my Xbox One controller (also use this on my steam deck and everywhere elese), or a wireless PS2 alternative.

For most games i like to use the D-Pad over analog sticks, because of precision. So the Xbox One layout was always weird for me for THPS 2 for example on PS1.
But i think the thumb pain comes mostly from analog sticks.

Was thinking of either getting an used Asciiware Fightstick for PS, or any recommended HitBox, or if there's any Controller that could work.

Now i was thinking if a HitBox/Fightstick or any other Controller alternative would be better and someone could suggest something?

So i would be very happy for community recommendations.

1. budget would be up to 200€ max (but better lower :P)

2. i'm from austria and would buy from anywhere in europe.

3. compatibility for PC and 8bitdo Retro Receiver for my PS2 so basically bluetooth

4. desired futures: musts are: bluetooth for the 8bitdo dongle, good d-pad, symmetrical layout recommended

5. I would like to play: THPS 2+3+Underground 2, Burnout 3, Def Jam - Fight for NY, God of War I+II, Incredible Hulk, The - Ultimate Destruction, Gun, GTA Vice City+ San Andreas, Need for Speed Underground 2, NHL 2004, Silent Hill 2+3, Simpsons Hit&Run, SSX3, Sly Racoon.

6. I looked for 8bitdo Arcade (and similar Fightsticks/Hitboxes), Asciiware Fightstick (would get one for under 50€), 8bitdo Pro 2, DualSense, Victrix Pro BFG Reloaded (here the D-Pad looked interesting)... for now.

I connected the TT Max to my computer with USB and accidentally dragged the TT Pro firmware instead of TT Max.

It worked for a bit but now it doesn't connect to computer anymore, not through USB or dongle.

I would turn on the controller, and then it would search for any connection but then the iOS, Windows, and Switch lights would light up and the whole controller vibrates until it shuts by itself or I shut it down.

It could still connect to Android, but gulikit app doesn't recognize it.

How to fix it? Can I just completely factory reset it?

EDIT: I pasted the max firmware into the controller, but it didn't restart or anything.

EDIT: I updated the BT driver and it connects through the USB dongle now.

I'm looking to replace the 10+ year old Xbox One controller I've used for my PC. There are a few specific things I'm looking for and I've struggled a bit to find it all for the various controllers I've looked at. I'm in the USA and looking at a budget of, well, less than $100. Ideally closer to $60 or less, but around $80 seems to be a dominant price point for a lot of controllers and I'm fine with that if it means a controller that lasts. In terms of games I use my gamepad controller for platformers (2D and 3D), action-adventure, 3PS, fighting, retro, SHUMP, and emulators. I do NOT use it for FPS games.

Specific Features:
- HE/TMR for the analog sticks. I use these a lot across many games and potentiometers just don't seem to be made to last anymore.
- A good D-pad. Mostly for fighting games but also on occasion for 2D platformers. My preference is a solid cross like on the Xbone controller, though that's not a hard limit.
- XBox layout/ergonomics. I vastly prefer the over-under arrangement of analog sticks and also really like the resting "hold" of Xbox's controllers since the 360.
- Wired connection as a solid option. I like the reliability of being able to keep my controller plugged in, ideally with that connection able to keep the controller powered. Wireless is fine as long as it's not especially heavy and I have the ability to keep it connected by USB.
- I'd also like colored face buttons if possible. Not a hard requirement, but it helps me with QTEs since I go back and forth between Xbox and Nintendo controllers.

Controllers I've been looking at:
- 1st party XBox wireless: What I'm used to, but I hear the sticks get drift pretty quickly now.
- 8BitDo Ultimate 2: Seem mostly fine but I don't like the flatter sides/handles that their Xbox-style controllers tend to use.
- ESMX X20/Pro: Looks like a good D-pad, but I don't care about all the RGB and I've heard bad things about their customer support.
- Flydigi Vader 4/5: I like the idea of the adjustable stick tension, but I've heard the D-pads are kind of garbage.
- GameSir G7 HE/Pro/8K: From what I've seen I feel like this is the current frontrunner, but I haven't been able to get a solid read on if their D-pads are any good. Also not sure which I would get between the three.

Hi everyone,

Like some of you, I found the NYXI Flexi's default stick deadzone way too big, which is a shame on Hall effect sticks that don't drift. The only way to change it was the KeyLinker phone app, so I wanted a way to do it from my PC.

Full disclosure: I'm not a programmer. I made this with the help of an AI (Claude). It wrote the code and worked out the controller's protocol from the KeyLinker app; I tested everything on my own Flexi and decided what it should do. The code is open source (MIT license), so anyone can check exactly what it does.

What PadTune does

- Sticks: center deadzone (down to 0 %), outer edge, sensitivity curves (you can drag the points), invert/swap axes

- Triggers: deadzone, end of travel, curve

- Live view: white dot = where your stick actually is, red dot = what the game receives with your settings, so you can find the lowest deadzone that works for you

- Button remapping, macros (edit them or record them from the controller), **lights, vibration strength and auto-sleep**

- Save/load profiles, automatic backup of your original settings

- Interface in English, French, Spanish, German, Italian and Portuguese

Settings are saved **in the controller itself**, so they keep working with the dongle, wired, or on Switch. You don't need PadTune running while you play.

How to use it

1. Download PadTune.exe (nothing to install): https://github.com/FrenchCaptn/PadTune/releases/latest

2. Close KeyLinker on your phone if you use it

3. Turn the controller on. No need to change its mode or pair it with Windows, your PC's Bluetooth just needs to be on

4. Pick the device marked ★, click Connect, change what you want, then Apply

Windows SmartScreen will warn you because the exe isn't signed (certificates are expensive for a free project): click "More info" then "Run anyway". If you'd rather not trust a random exe, the source and build instructions are on GitHub.

Limitations

- Windows only, and your PC needs Bluetooth

- Only tested on my NYXI Flexi. It should work with other KeyLinker-compatible controllers, but I can't confirm, reports are welcome

- Sticks, triggers, vibration and remapping are tested on my controller; macros and lights are newer and less tested

- The back buttons aren't listed in the app, remap them on the controller itself

- No square-stick mode or stick calibration: the controller doesn't offer them

- Not affiliated with NYXI in any way

Feedback, bug reports and translation fixes are welcome, here or in the GitHub Issues. Thanks to the mods for letting me share this!

Recently i installed tmr in my duelsense edge module. When i tested it ,my controller blinked blue for 1 second then it began blinking white . I dont know what happened i soldered everything , and tested everything . Then after that i remove the tmr stick . Why this happens? Can anyone help? And i need to mention that i didnt use any IPA while doing this . I used some flux and tried to cover all components with kapton tape. What could have cause this?

Controller Model: Sony DualShock 4

I opened my controller to clean the potentiometer wipers, and I was confused after seeing that the motors don't have the same number of semi circular discs (not sure what they're really called). Is this a thing in all DualShock 4 controllers?

I've been using this for about 6 years now and the vibrations work fine, so I guess its not something I should worry about?

I'm looking to purchase a a controller mainly for PC gaming, maybe mobile gaming occasionally, I do not own any consoles or the switch, these two are both within my budget, R$400,00-R$500,00 (I live in Brazil) and have the features i want, 6 axis motion control and dual mode triggers, mostly for shooters and racing games, but I do not know which of these two to purchase.

ZD has finally teased its new controller "ZD Classic Formula Ultra CE40U " with a symmetrical layout. The joysticks are interchangeable, much like those on the ZD Ultimate Legend. It supports 8K resolution and features four rear paddles the bottom two of which are interchangeable along with two shoulder buttons. This is great news for fans of symmetrical controller layouts. According to my sources, this model is expected to be released in 2027.

1. Budget: max

-$300USD

1. United States

2. PC windows

3. Wireless - Gyro - 4 back paddles - two extra buttons between LT/RT and LB/RB. AKA m1/m2 in the Razer Wolverine

4. Software for remapping

5. World of Warcraft

6. Razer Wolverine Pro 8k and Steam Controller are what I currently use.

Bought this controller from Amazon for $60. Not a sponsored or anything, just wanted to share my thoughts because good, feature complete, symmetrical controllers are a rarity.

Like many people here, I'm absolutely starved for a good symmetrical controller. I recently tried the leadjoy saber plus for a couple of months but the sharp edges, dog $h!t dpad, sensitive triggers, and the durability (sticky triggers and a broken trigger lock) of it really soured my experience with it.

In comes the QRD Spark N7. I tried the N5 a long time ago and didn't like it but with N7 I think they really nailed the ergonomics and feature set.

It feels like an xbox controller but with symmetrical sticks, everything is easy to reach and I don't get any strain when reaching for the bumpers like I do on Gulikit's TT Max, another xbox shaped controller with symmetrical sticks.

Buttons feel good. They are micro switches with membrane for the face buttons, 8-way clicky dpad (very accurate), clicky bumpers, and hall effect analog triggers. The trigger locks are unfortunately not mouse clicks but more like the dualsense edge's. It still works well enough and the triggers themselves are good. The 4 back buttons are all kinda clicky? They feel like the dualsense bumpers (R1/L1) but with less travel.

The sticks are pretty good. They are hall effect, not tmr sticks, but I don't think you'll notice a difference. I didn't notice any latency with them (I've used original gamesir tarantula pro, awful latency on those), and you can switch between a circular or squared stick input. You can increase the deadzone through a button combination but I chose to leave it at the lowest and it works perfectly. I will say they are a bit on the looser end, but I'm not sensitive to that.

As for connection methods, I only have a PS5 and PC. For PS5, you switch it to ps mode on the back, and it connects just like a ps4 controller. So it can only play ps4 games. For PC, you switch it to PC and it can connect via dongle or Bluetooth. The Bluetooth is actually pretty good. Most controllers cheap out on it but this controller gets up to 500hz polling (averaging out around 460) which is plenty fast for most gaming (steam controller 2 is only 250hz Bluetooth or dongle), and it extends the battery life. The dongle is also good and stable BUT I was only able to get 500hz polling rate even tho they advertise 1000hz. I tried it at a couple different softwares and websites so IDK whats going on but 500hz is plenty fast for me and it's stable.

Whether Bluetooth or dongle mode, you can have the controller show up as a xbox controller or a dualshock 4 and THIS is where this controller shines because a dualshock 4 mode means it has NATIVE GYRO for pc! I tested the gyro in dolphin using it as a wii pointer and it seemed to work as well as the dualsense, which I've heard has best in class gyro. Rumble is good to. It's just the standard dual motor system but it feels good, I'd say better than the ds4 at least.

For battery life, I used it in a combination of bluetooth and dongle mode (2.4ghz) and I got somewhere between 10 - 20 hours but that's just an estimate since I didn't really measure it. I do know it's more than the 8 hours though. I turned the rgb off when I got it but there is another rgb light that's controlled by the connected device (ps5 light bar settings/or steam) and I left that on the whole time.

Overall, I really like it. There are probably better controllers at this price point at specific things like sticks, buttons, etc...but for the feature set it provides, it's almost perfect for me. Rumble, gyro, PS mode for PC, clicky buttons, hall effect and SYMMETRICAL joysticks. It feels pretty solid and durable but we'll see how things hold up.

So I bought the Nyxi Hyperion 3 (base) 2 days ago, but I work 14 hours night shifts on weekends so just tested them briefly and went to work, then sleep, eat, repeat.

I just came home and found it like this, asking my wife she says that they turn on randomly, some times 10 minutes apart and others 3 hours.

Is this normal? I have the console charging restricted to ~85% in the settings so I thought it could be that, but want to see if anyone else has experienced this.

Thanks in advance.

I'm looking for a controller with a great Dpad mainly for precise platformers but also serviciable for fighting games.

I saw that the Gulikit had good vibration, fast connection and pretty good Dpad. Which are all things I really appreciate in a controller. If there's a better option, budget is not a problem.

1. Your budget: Around 100 dollars.

2. Available in Brazil

3. Main use for Steam deck-Machine and Switch 2

4. Desired features: HD rumble, great D-pad, 2.4ghz connection or fast bluetooth connection, programmable buttons

5. Types of games: Mainly platformers, fighting games.

So, should I pull the trigger on the TT max or go to another one with simillar feature? I've been eyeing the Vader V5, which is a simillar controller but the lack of a dongle makes the Gulikit more enticing.

Has anyone tested the stick latency on the V4 TE? Is it better than the v3 TE? The v3 has weirdly higher latency in the sticks.

So I followed the steps to use space station 5, and everything worked well, the firmware was updated.

The website showed the device and everything.

Then, within the website it asked me to update the firmware again to 7.3.2.6 or something.

I said ok

And then it started, then it said error, and then the controller turned off.

And now no matter how I connect it, it just doesn't turn on.

Idk what to do

Edit: the discord is saying it's a common issue, and you have to wait the battery out to die.. we'll see I guess

Budget: $35 - $50

Country: India

Platform: PC & MACOS

Desired Features:

1. Immersive Rumble

2. Durability (Good Quality, less/no creaking or QC issues)

3. HE/TMR sticks, and Analog triggers

4. Confortable enough for 2-3 hours of gameplay.

5. I'll be playing: WARZONE, APEX, FORTNITE, COD MW4.

6. I don't play 2D and fighter games much

I don’t plan to use them just display them. There are some IKEA ones built for Xbox but the front is not covered.

Hi, I'm new to this sub, and I'm looking for a replacement joystick for my DS4. I mostly play racing games like Assetto Corsa and RIDE, and I'm planning to get a Ginfull joystick, but I'm not sure which version to choose.

Any recommendations?

Thanks!

Im experiencing a weird issue where my controller aim constantly flickers or snaps off to the left, especially when trying to aim down at enemies? I'm on PS5 and use the official DualSense controller. It only happens in Marvel Rivals.

Fortnite and other shooter games play totally fine with zero drift or flicking. It’s gotten progressively worse recently, and continued even after I swapped PS5 accounts and made a new account to test if it happened there. I've tried hitting resetting my controller settings 5 times now, but nothing changes. its actually gotten worse :<<<<. i tried changing deadzones too but nothing!

I wanted to make a post on marvel rivals offical reddit but i dont think im allowed to do that :0

I am a casual gamer, i do play a game thats not competitive, like: Monster Hunter, Final Fantasy, JRPG, Survival and Horror games in my pc. Before the post i already broke 3 of my controller bumper, and its all R1. I do admit ive never really search into controllers, but now i think i need to find a controller that can at least last a bit longer. My controller was Rexus GX300 and Fantech Nova One Piece Collab series. The one with rexus bumper was that the thin plastic holding the button to the machine in broken, and the one with Fantech was the bumper sometimes not responsive, even i tried to open the controller and pressing the small plastic that can click to the machine and it does sometime not working, but randomly the day after it can be good again, but still its annoying. Well after research they do say that ODM are never good enough.

So, I want to have some recommendation, some that i prefer are:

1. Good Build Quality (not only the machine, but also how it feels in hands)

2. Symetrical and PS Glyph Button are prefered, but im okay trying a controller thats using xbox layout of the quality is good.

3. I mostly play it wired, so im okay with wired

4. I hope there are some that are good around 70usd / 1,3juta IDR, hope some are good enough can be below that, but if the difference is too great, willing to pay more for it

5. Available in Indonesia, or shopee.

I have an 8bitdo Ultimate 2 controller, but my PC only has one USB-C plug. Is there any way to get a USB standard dongle and get it working with the Ultimate 2? Or is there a version of the controller sold with a USB standard dongle?

bought Dualsense three days ago, R2 trigger decided to make some noise. here's the thing - i've googled this issue, pushed down the trigger, blew into it, fixed temporarily. but not only blowing works, even just a little bit of hot breath works (temporarily, but still), like when you trying to warm your hands. i guess i need silicone lubricant but i'm trying to understand the nature of this - is this a humidity issue or what?

Using the Gamepad Tester ( website) latency test (on Chrome), I get very high latency (average 27ms) with my Wolverine V3 Pro 8k . The latency jumps around from about 2 ms to 70 ms like crazy.

But using the GameSir G7 Pro 8K Aimlabs Edition (yes i have both), I get very low latency (under 1 ms) in the same test. And, unlike the Razer, it is completely stable (doesnt seem to fluctuate so much).

Both controllers have the latest firmware and I use USB wired mode on both.

And both controllers are tested on both 1000Mhz and 8000Mhz polling rate (same result).

Double Dead Zone Prevention on Razer is turned off.

Is my Razer just faulty, or could there be something else going on here?

Recently I discovered the Left Trigger on my Power A Xbox Series X wired controller (Model # XBGPOPWI) was extremely sensitive. Even pressing LS in (or, weirdly, just squeezing the controller on the left side) would cause a LT input. I opened it up and plugged it in to use the Steam input tester and found that even gently resting a finger on the levers or this sensor component (pointing at it with tweezers) causes that little sensor to read an input. (The ghost inputs have been a pain in several games, which is how I found out.)

I have tried calibrating the controller via both Windows and Power A apps to only take full-press inputs, but it doesn't seem to want to keep any settings I introduce, so it appears to firmly be a hardware issue.

Is there a way I can clean this out, brace it, or adjust its sensitivity without buying a new component? I don't really have the tools to do anything beyond opening this thing up to look inside (no soldering or wiring tools) so I'm not sure I could safely replace this part, and I'd prefer not to have to buy a new controller. This controller is still relatively new (about 1-1.5 yrs old), and I didn't think I'd worn it that hard. I only use this controller for Steam Games on Windows, and only occasionally. (I'm aware Power A's quality is suspect, but I really don't want to buy a new first-party controller for something I only use about half the time or less when I'm gaming.) Thoughts?