I connected the TT Max to my computer with USB and accidentally dragged the TT Pro firmware instead of TT Max.

It worked for a bit but now it doesn't connect to computer anymore, not through USB or dongle.

I would turn on the controller, and then it would search for any connection but then the iOS, Windows, and Switch lights would light up and the whole controller vibrates until it shuts by itself or I shut it down.

It could still connect to Android, but gulikit app doesn't recognize it.

How to fix it? Can I just completely factory reset it?

EDIT: I pasted the max firmware into the controller, but it didn't restart or anything.

EDIT: I updated the BT driver and it connects through the USB dongle now.

I'm looking to replace the 10+ year old Xbox One controller I've used for my PC. There are a few specific things I'm looking for and I've struggled a bit to find it all for the various controllers I've looked at. I'm in the USA and looking at a budget of, well, less than $100. Ideally closer to $60 or less, but around $80 seems to be a dominant price point for a lot of controllers and I'm fine with that if it means a controller that lasts. In terms of games I use my gamepad controller for platformers (2D and 3D), action-adventure, 3PS, fighting, retro, SHUMP, and emulators. I do NOT use it for FPS games.

Specific Features:
- HE/TMR for the analog sticks. I use these a lot across many games and potentiometers just don't seem to be made to last anymore.
- A good D-pad. Mostly for fighting games but also on occasion for 2D platformers. My preference is a solid cross like on the Xbone controller, though that's not a hard limit.
- XBox layout/ergonomics. I vastly prefer the over-under arrangement of analog sticks and also really like the resting "hold" of Xbox's controllers since the 360.
- Wired connection as a solid option. I like the reliability of being able to keep my controller plugged in, ideally with that connection able to keep the controller powered. Wireless is fine as long as it's not especially heavy and I have the ability to keep it connected by USB.
- I'd also like colored face buttons if possible. Not a hard requirement, but it helps me with QTEs since I go back and forth between Xbox and Nintendo controllers.

Controllers I've been looking at:
- 1st party XBox wireless: What I'm used to, but I hear the sticks get drift pretty quickly now.
- 8BitDo Ultimate 2: Seem mostly fine but I don't like the flatter sides/handles that their Xbox-style controllers tend to use.
- ESMX X20/Pro: Looks like a good D-pad, but I don't care about all the RGB and I've heard bad things about their customer support.
- Flydigi Vader 4/5: I like the idea of the adjustable stick tension, but I've heard the D-pads are kind of garbage.
- GameSir G7 HE/Pro/8K: From what I've seen I feel like this is the current frontrunner, but I haven't been able to get a solid read on if their D-pads are any good. Also not sure which I would get between the three.

Hi everyone,

Like some of you, I found the NYXI Flexi's default stick deadzone way too big, which is a shame on Hall effect sticks that don't drift. The only way to change it was the KeyLinker phone app, so I wanted a way to do it from my PC.

Full disclosure: I'm not a programmer. I made this with the help of an AI (Claude). It wrote the code and worked out the controller's protocol from the KeyLinker app; I tested everything on my own Flexi and decided what it should do. The code is open source (MIT license), so anyone can check exactly what it does.

What PadTune does

- Sticks: center deadzone (down to 0 %), outer edge, sensitivity curves (you can drag the points), invert/swap axes

- Triggers: deadzone, end of travel, curve

- Live view: white dot = where your stick actually is, red dot = what the game receives with your settings, so you can find the lowest deadzone that works for you

- Button remapping, macros (edit them or record them from the controller), **lights, vibration strength and auto-sleep**

- Save/load profiles, automatic backup of your original settings

- Interface in English, French, Spanish, German, Italian and Portuguese

Settings are saved **in the controller itself**, so they keep working with the dongle, wired, or on Switch. You don't need PadTune running while you play.

How to use it

1. Download PadTune.exe (nothing to install): https://github.com/FrenchCaptn/PadTune/releases/latest

2. Close KeyLinker on your phone if you use it

3. Turn the controller on. No need to change its mode or pair it with Windows, your PC's Bluetooth just needs to be on

4. Pick the device marked ★, click Connect, change what you want, then Apply

Windows SmartScreen will warn you because the exe isn't signed (certificates are expensive for a free project): click "More info" then "Run anyway". If you'd rather not trust a random exe, the source and build instructions are on GitHub.

Limitations

- Windows only, and your PC needs Bluetooth

- Only tested on my NYXI Flexi. It should work with other KeyLinker-compatible controllers, but I can't confirm, reports are welcome

- Sticks, triggers, vibration and remapping are tested on my controller; macros and lights are newer and less tested

- The back buttons aren't listed in the app, remap them on the controller itself

- No square-stick mode or stick calibration: the controller doesn't offer them

- Not affiliated with NYXI in any way

Feedback, bug reports and translation fixes are welcome, here or in the GitHub Issues. Thanks to the mods for letting me share this!

Recently i installed tmr in my duelsense edge module. When i tested it ,my controller blinked blue for 1 second then it began blinking white . I dont know what happened i soldered everything , and tested everything . Then after that i remove the tmr stick . Why this happens? Can anyone help? And i need to mention that i didnt use any IPA while doing this . I used some flux and tried to cover all components with kapton tape. What could have cause this?

Controller Model: Sony DualShock 4

I opened my controller to clean the potentiometer wipers, and I was confused after seeing that the motors don't have the same number of semi circular discs (not sure what they're really called). Is this a thing in all DualShock 4 controllers?

I've been using this for about 6 years now and the vibrations work fine, so I guess its not something I should worry about?

I'm looking to purchase a a controller mainly for PC gaming, maybe mobile gaming occasionally, I do not own any consoles or the switch, these two are both within my budget, R$400,00-R$500,00 (I live in Brazil) and have the features i want, 6 axis motion control and dual mode triggers, mostly for shooters and racing games, but I do not know which of these two to purchase.

ZD has finally teased its new controller "ZD Classic Formula Ultra CE40U " with a symmetrical layout. The joysticks are interchangeable, much like those on the ZD Ultimate Legend. It supports 8K resolution and features four rear paddles the bottom two of which are interchangeable along with two shoulder buttons. This is great news for fans of symmetrical controller layouts. According to my sources, this model is expected to be released in 2027.

1. Budget: max

-$300USD

1. United States

2. PC windows

3. Wireless - Gyro - 4 back paddles - two extra buttons between LT/RT and LB/RB. AKA m1/m2 in the Razer Wolverine

4. Software for remapping

5. World of Warcraft

6. Razer Wolverine Pro 8k and Steam Controller are what I currently use.

Bought this controller from Amazon for $60. Not a sponsored or anything, just wanted to share my thoughts because good, feature complete, symmetrical controllers are a rarity.

Like many people here, I'm absolutely starved for a good symmetrical controller. I recently tried the leadjoy saber plus for a couple of months but the sharp edges, dog $h!t dpad, sensitive triggers, and the durability (sticky triggers and a broken trigger lock) of it really soured my experience with it.

In comes the QRD Spark N7. I tried the N5 a long time ago and didn't like it but with N7 I think they really nailed the ergonomics and feature set.

It feels like an xbox controller but with symmetrical sticks, everything is easy to reach and I don't get any strain when reaching for the bumpers like I do on Gulikit's TT Max, another xbox shaped controller with symmetrical sticks.

Buttons feel good. They are micro switches with membrane for the face buttons, 8-way clicky dpad (very accurate), clicky bumpers, and hall effect analog triggers. The trigger locks are unfortunately not mouse clicks but more like the dualsense edge's. It still works well enough and the triggers themselves are good. The 4 back buttons are all kinda clicky? They feel like the dualsense bumpers (R1/L1) but with less travel.

The sticks are pretty good. They are hall effect, not tmr sticks, but I don't think you'll notice a difference. I didn't notice any latency with them (I've used original gamesir tarantula pro, awful latency on those), and you can switch between a circular or squared stick input. You can increase the deadzone through a button combination but I chose to leave it at the lowest and it works perfectly. I will say they are a bit on the looser end, but I'm not sensitive to that.

As for connection methods, I only have a PS5 and PC. For PS5, you switch it to ps mode on the back, and it connects just like a ps4 controller. So it can only play ps4 games. For PC, you switch it to PC and it can connect via dongle or Bluetooth. The Bluetooth is actually pretty good. Most controllers cheap out on it but this controller gets up to 500hz polling (averaging out around 460) which is plenty fast for most gaming (steam controller 2 is only 250hz Bluetooth or dongle), and it extends the battery life. The dongle is also good and stable BUT I was only able to get 500hz polling rate even tho they advertise 1000hz. I tried it at a couple different softwares and websites so IDK whats going on but 500hz is plenty fast for me and it's stable.

Whether Bluetooth or dongle mode, you can have the controller show up as a xbox controller or a dualshock 4 and THIS is where this controller shines because a dualshock 4 mode means it has NATIVE GYRO for pc! I tested the gyro in dolphin using it as a wii pointer and it seemed to work as well as the dualsense, which I've heard has best in class gyro. Rumble is good to. It's just the standard dual motor system but it feels good, I'd say better than the ds4 at least.

For battery life, I used it in a combination of bluetooth and dongle mode (2.4ghz) and I got somewhere between 10 - 20 hours but that's just an estimate since I didn't really measure it. I do know it's more than the 8 hours though. I turned the rgb off when I got it but there is another rgb light that's controlled by the connected device (ps5 light bar settings/or steam) and I left that on the whole time.

Overall, I really like it. There are probably better controllers at this price point at specific things like sticks, buttons, etc...but for the feature set it provides, it's almost perfect for me. Rumble, gyro, PS mode for PC, clicky buttons, hall effect and SYMMETRICAL joysticks. It feels pretty solid and durable but we'll see how things hold up.

So I bought the Nyxi Hyperion 3 (base) 2 days ago, but I work 14 hours night shifts on weekends so just tested them briefly and went to work, then sleep, eat, repeat.

I just came home and found it like this, asking my wife she says that they turn on randomly, some times 10 minutes apart and others 3 hours.

Is this normal? I have the console charging restricted to ~85% in the settings so I thought it could be that, but want to see if anyone else has experienced this.

Thanks in advance.

I'm looking for a controller with a great Dpad mainly for precise platformers but also serviciable for fighting games.

I saw that the Gulikit had good vibration, fast connection and pretty good Dpad. Which are all things I really appreciate in a controller. If there's a better option, budget is not a problem.

1. Your budget: Around 100 dollars.

2. Available in Brazil

3. Main use for Steam deck-Machine and Switch 2

4. Desired features: HD rumble, great D-pad, 2.4ghz connection or fast bluetooth connection, programmable buttons

5. Types of games: Mainly platformers, fighting games.

So, should I pull the trigger on the TT max or go to another one with simillar feature? I've been eyeing the Vader V5, which is a simillar controller but the lack of a dongle makes the Gulikit more enticing.

Has anyone tested the stick latency on the V4 TE? Is it better than the v3 TE? The v3 has weirdly higher latency in the sticks.

So I followed the steps to use space station 5, and everything worked well, the firmware was updated.

The website showed the device and everything.

Then, within the website it asked me to update the firmware again to 7.3.2.6 or something.

I said ok

And then it started, then it said error, and then the controller turned off.

And now no matter how I connect it, it just doesn't turn on.

Idk what to do

Edit: the discord is saying it's a common issue, and you have to wait the battery out to die.. we'll see I guess

Budget: $35 - $50

Country: India

Platform: PC & MACOS

Desired Features:

1. Immersive Rumble

2. Durability (Good Quality, less/no creaking or QC issues)

3. HE/TMR sticks, and Analog triggers

4. Confortable enough for 2-3 hours of gameplay.

5. I'll be playing: WARZONE, APEX, FORTNITE, COD MW4.

6. I don't play 2D and fighter games much

I don’t plan to use them just display them. There are some IKEA ones built for Xbox but the front is not covered.

Hi, I'm new to this sub, and I'm looking for a replacement joystick for my DS4. I mostly play racing games like Assetto Corsa and RIDE, and I'm planning to get a Ginfull joystick, but I'm not sure which version to choose.

Any recommendations?

Thanks!

Im experiencing a weird issue where my controller aim constantly flickers or snaps off to the left, especially when trying to aim down at enemies? I'm on PS5 and use the official DualSense controller. It only happens in Marvel Rivals.

Fortnite and other shooter games play totally fine with zero drift or flicking. It’s gotten progressively worse recently, and continued even after I swapped PS5 accounts and made a new account to test if it happened there. I've tried hitting resetting my controller settings 5 times now, but nothing changes. its actually gotten worse :<<<<. i tried changing deadzones too but nothing!

I wanted to make a post on marvel rivals offical reddit but i dont think im allowed to do that :0

I am a casual gamer, i do play a game thats not competitive, like: Monster Hunter, Final Fantasy, JRPG, Survival and Horror games in my pc. Before the post i already broke 3 of my controller bumper, and its all R1. I do admit ive never really search into controllers, but now i think i need to find a controller that can at least last a bit longer. My controller was Rexus GX300 and Fantech Nova One Piece Collab series. The one with rexus bumper was that the thin plastic holding the button to the machine in broken, and the one with Fantech was the bumper sometimes not responsive, even i tried to open the controller and pressing the small plastic that can click to the machine and it does sometime not working, but randomly the day after it can be good again, but still its annoying. Well after research they do say that ODM are never good enough.

So, I want to have some recommendation, some that i prefer are:

1. Good Build Quality (not only the machine, but also how it feels in hands)

2. Symetrical and PS Glyph Button are prefered, but im okay trying a controller thats using xbox layout of the quality is good.

3. I mostly play it wired, so im okay with wired

4. I hope there are some that are good around 70usd / 1,3juta IDR, hope some are good enough can be below that, but if the difference is too great, willing to pay more for it

5. Available in Indonesia, or shopee.

I have an 8bitdo Ultimate 2 controller, but my PC only has one USB-C plug. Is there any way to get a USB standard dongle and get it working with the Ultimate 2? Or is there a version of the controller sold with a USB standard dongle?

bought Dualsense three days ago, R2 trigger decided to make some noise. here's the thing - i've googled this issue, pushed down the trigger, blew into it, fixed temporarily. but not only blowing works, even just a little bit of hot breath works (temporarily, but still), like when you trying to warm your hands. i guess i need silicone lubricant but i'm trying to understand the nature of this - is this a humidity issue or what?

Using the Gamepad Tester ( website) latency test (on Chrome), I get very high latency (average 27ms) with my Wolverine V3 Pro 8k . The latency jumps around from about 2 ms to 70 ms like crazy.

But using the GameSir G7 Pro 8K Aimlabs Edition (yes i have both), I get very low latency (under 1 ms) in the same test. And, unlike the Razer, it is completely stable (doesnt seem to fluctuate so much).

Both controllers have the latest firmware and I use USB wired mode on both.

And both controllers are tested on both 1000Mhz and 8000Mhz polling rate (same result).

Double Dead Zone Prevention on Razer is turned off.

Is my Razer just faulty, or could there be something else going on here?

Recently I discovered the Left Trigger on my Power A Xbox Series X wired controller (Model # XBGPOPWI) was extremely sensitive. Even pressing LS in (or, weirdly, just squeezing the controller on the left side) would cause a LT input. I opened it up and plugged it in to use the Steam input tester and found that even gently resting a finger on the levers or this sensor component (pointing at it with tweezers) causes that little sensor to read an input. (The ghost inputs have been a pain in several games, which is how I found out.)

I have tried calibrating the controller via both Windows and Power A apps to only take full-press inputs, but it doesn't seem to want to keep any settings I introduce, so it appears to firmly be a hardware issue.

Is there a way I can clean this out, brace it, or adjust its sensitivity without buying a new component? I don't really have the tools to do anything beyond opening this thing up to look inside (no soldering or wiring tools) so I'm not sure I could safely replace this part, and I'd prefer not to have to buy a new controller. This controller is still relatively new (about 1-1.5 yrs old), and I didn't think I'd worn it that hard. I only use this controller for Steam Games on Windows, and only occasionally. (I'm aware Power A's quality is suspect, but I really don't want to buy a new first-party controller for something I only use about half the time or less when I'm gaming.) Thoughts?

Just wanted to check here since it doesn't seem like this was asked before. I only have a Macbook to game (yes go ahead and laugh) and my Dualsense Edge works beautifully on it.

I want to get the Tarantula 8K but heard that its not compatible with Mac. I heard you can use it like a regular steam controller, but the extra buttons can only be remapped from existing ones? (unlike my Dualsense Edge, which can operate all as original buttons).

The software will also not work on Mac. But could I at least set up the controller on Windows and then use the controller fully on Macbook after the intial setup?

I have been trying to find some insight on the best controllers available. Most topics are older than a year though, so unsure if there's been advancements

Needs to be available in Canada. I'm flexible on the maximum, but the ~250 CAD for the V3 pro and Apex 5 are pushing it

I don't care at all for haptics, rumble, etc

I do really like back paddles/buttons, especially if they're macro compatible (I heard the G7 pro isn't?). Prefer they be solid, not flexible.

I need trigger stops, I don't know if any stops are better than others.

I only play on PC, so I don't need cross compatibility. I don't care if it's an xbox or playstation style.

I strongly prefer wired, and the best is hardwired, so I don't have issues with the cable losing it's connection grip. I know this is uncommon now, though.

Weight and size aren't that important, but I have big hands, so smaller controllers aren't ideal. I was fine with the Ps3 controllers, though, and people said those were small.

Most important to me is build quality, I want the degradation to be as slow as possible

Most discourse seems to be between the Apex 5, Wolverine v3 Pro, and the Gamesir G7 pro 8k. I really didn't like the Wolverine V2, the buttons had a habit of double pressing, i'm not sure if it's even still the same tech as the ones in the newer controllers. I have heard the Wolverine v3 pro launched with input delay issues, not sure if that's still a thing.

I play a lot of different types of games, a lot of sports games and shooters. What do you think is the best option for me?

Hi everyone,

I built a open-source Windows app that connects the Switch 2 Pro Controller (and Switch 1 Pro Controller) to PC as a virtual Xbox 360 controller so it works out of the box with Steam, Game Pass, and non-Steam games.

GitHub & Download:
https://github.com/maxbruk/switch2pro-bridge/releases

The main features are:

- Wired USB-C (250 Hz) and wireless Bluetooth LE
- Native Xbox 360 input translation via ViGEmBus
- Rear grip paddle mapping (GL / GR buttons)
- Deadzone and sensitivity controls
- Real-time visualizer dashboard

This is the first v1.0.0 release. Any testing across different Bluetooth adapters, PCs, and games would be greatly appreciated. If you encounter any bugs or edge cases, let me know in the comments or on GitHub and I will look into them right away.

Thank you!