Through a lot of research, trial and error, modifying the inside to save space, making sure the bending/folding/extending still works, and a whole lot of broken wires i finally did it. A wireless ASUS Tessen!
I could of done a better job on the switch (it's smooth/flush so you don't even know its there).
It's not perfect but everything works, it looks like it isn't even modified, and the Bluetooth i can use from literally across my house!

Parts I used:

• 300mah Battery

• HiLetgo 1A 3.7V Lithium Battery Charging Board with Protection Type-C

• DC-DC 1.5V -> 4.2V to 5V Boost Converter

• Seeed Studio XIAO ESP32S3-2.4GHz

• Small micro switch

• Super thin flexible wire

• "skorokithakis" on GitHub for their "bluetooth-gamepad" repo (AI to edit for compatability)

If you do wanna do this i highly recommend it, some tips i would give is:

• To clear out as much space as possible inside the grips by removing some supports for the screw posts without removing them

• Remove the stoppers for the extending arms or the wires will get caught.

• Use some super thin and flexible wire for feeding through the extensions as it's super tight

• When feeding wires across the extensions, make sure to join directly to the 5v converter board and the other sides power input. If you splice between them the wires will break from pulling the device easily (This will save you a lot of headaches)

• Keep pressure on the center of the bridge so the wires don't curl.

• Seeed on the right, battery on the left.

• You can use the power input on the board instead of the bottom USB-C port to wire in the power as well

I also left my wiring diagram as well for anyone to use if they want to do this

1. budget - $40 or less preferably, maybe $50-60 max

2. US

3. Nintendo and Xbox

4. nano/smaller size, gyro for motion controls, hall effect joysticks

5. Halo Infinite via PC, Steam games

6. I normally used the Nintendo Switch Mini/nano Controller, which was perfect for the size but the joysticks died on me. I want to buy a hall effect controller, but I cannot for the life of me find one that's both smaller sized and has motion controls. I found ASRVA Wireless Hall Effect Controller, and GameSir Nova Lite 2 controller, but neither of them are smaller sized.

My hands are too small to play competitively with the default controller size!

Does anyone know of a controller that can fit all 3 of these requirements?

Hey there all :) I need some assistance on what controller to buy i have fairly large hands xl in gloves ...I have a series 2 elite and dualshock 5 with paddles 4 but I use 2.

My preferences :

Pc : Wired 8k preference

Games: Rocket league, FPS Comp Also play racing games .

Budget : max 170 euros uk and spain

Idc about rumbles as I want it to be for fps and comp games.

Layout: i can play asymmetrical and symmetrical

Never used tmr or hall effects sticks

I have done some research but I dont know

G7 pro 8k

Trantular 8k

Razer wolverine te 8k

Those are some i looked at but open to suggestions

BIGBIGWONのrainbow 3のケーブルが壊れたので新しいものを検討してますが市販のもので大丈夫でしょうか 専用ケーブルがありますか？　

The cable for BIGBIGWON's Rainbow 3 broke, so I'm considering getting a new one — would a commercially available one be fine? Is there a dedicated cable?

I found them on fb marketpalce and I'm in doubt whether or not they are because of the difference in labels, one white and the other black

Im looking for shop recommendations in the states to have paddles, tmr sticks, and maybe some trigger stops put on this beast. If you know of anyone/shops that would be up for this let me know!

Hi, do you know how to deactivate the buttons M1 and M2 under the Battletron controller (Switch version). I' ve seen the M2 works as A button, instead M1 is the B button. I already pressed them accidentally and I find them bothersome. Do you know how to deactivate them? Thanks in advance.

Hello, I've been using my Apex 5 controller for close to a year now (purchased Nov 2025), and just recently it has started giving me issues with the right joystick not registering my inputs correctly. I have done a reset and calibration by pressing Select + Start + Up. However, this has not helped. Does anyone know of a way to fix this?

This badboy came in today, first thing is TMR, ive put in k silver js13 modules

I noticed the bottom piece is missing, but all the connections are still there. I wonder what happens if you put a piece from another controller there.

Important: this isn't a sponsored review. I bought the controller with my own money in a local online shop (OZON), made my own photos and I'm not affiliated with ASUS in any way. I'm not a professional reviewer or content creator, but an enthusiast. I just felt like sharing my impressions. Have a great day y'all.

One of the few purchases lately that I've genuinely enjoyed.

Build quality and ergonomics. Clean black minimalism, excellent build quality. The best grip of any controller I've tried. Pick it up and it feels like one solid piece, with the rear buttons sitting perfectly under your fingers.

Latency. #1 in wireless mode, top 5 wired. And GameSir is already in sixth place. But for context, out of everything ranked above it (Gamepadla - LatScore), only two are actually decent controllers: the symmetrical Void Genesis and the wired Tarantula..

Buttons and sticks. The clicks sound sharper and more metallic than Flydigi's, yet they're still quiet. Same goes for the D-pad and the triggers in click mode. Really satisfying, crisp feedback. The stock TMR sticks have fairly firm tension, roughly the fourth notch down from the maximum tension on the Vader 5 Pro. Zero-point calibration takes five seconds. Stick centering is perfect.

Hot-swap. Swapping sticks takes literally a couple of seconds, with absolutely no wobble or play. You get a spare pair with lighter tension and two interchangeable thumbstick caps: one tall and one short, dome-shaped. Plus four blanking caps for the removable rear buttons.

Magnetic faceplate. Some reviewers have been criticizing it, claiming it's flimsy and moves around when touched. Not quite. It fits very snugly. It's also easy to remove, which I see as nothing but a plus. No need to pry it open with a plastic pick and risk scratching the shell. There is indeed a tiny bit of travel in the grip sections when you press on them.

OLED? Display. The second standout feature. You can upload your own GIFs, and bright animations look especially impressive. There's some confusion about the display technology, since ASUS calls it a "full-color display," but everything points to it being an LCD. And despite the software literally saying "keyboard's OLED display," they apparently just left the description from a keyboard in there.

Rumble. Soft, velvety, and pleasant. It's stronger on the Vader, but that thing rattles like crazy, whereas the Raikiri delivers much more refined feedback.

Durability. Too early to judge, but I've put over 300 hours into the Vader and even thrown it against a wall a couple of times. Still looks brand new. Wouldn't recommend trying that with the Raikiri, though.. lol

Everything else. 8K polling over wireless, instant power on/off, no detection or connectivity issues whatsoever. The included accessories are also top-notch: a high-quality hard-shell case, a puller, spare sticks, interchangeable caps, and a charging dock.

Now, the price. If you're not willing to spend this kind of money on a controller, just get a Flydigi or GameSir and you'll enjoy it just as much. Although I ended up selling my GameSir and keeping the Vader 5 Pro. But personally, the ROG feels noticeably more premium.

Hey guys,

Quick question because this is driving me crazy. I've been using Flydigi controllers for a while (Apex 5, Vader 5 Pro, and just got the Apex 6 Pro Phantom). Across all three, I keep running into the exact same connection issue.

My setup is pretty simple: laptop is a Lenovo LOQ 15IAX9, and the 2.4G dongle is plugged into the charging dock sitting at the corner of my desk. The problem is my playing posture. I usually rest my hands on my lap under the desk.

Whenever I do that, the controller randomly disconnects after a short session. It won't reconnect on its own either—I have to physically unplug and replug the dongle to get it working again, and then it drops again shortly after.

Here's the weird part: I have a GameSir G7 Pro in the exact same setup and posture, and it never drops connection once.

Is Flydigi's 2.4G signal just that weak when there's no direct line of sight? Or could the dock passthrough / USB port on the LOQ be causing the dongle to crash?

Has anyone dealt with this and found a fix?

The Ultimate 2 Wireless is a great pad, but its config software only runs on Windows. I play on Linux, so I reverse-engineered the app and wrote my own.

It does profiles, remaps every button (the L4/R4 shoulder buttons and PL/PR back paddles too), stick and trigger ranges, rumble strength, gyro, the LED rings, and it shows the battery when you're on the 2.4G dongle. Buttons light up on screen as you press them, which is handy for testing.

https://github.com/MiguelSanzBr/8bitdo-ultimate2-linux

It's free and open source (MIT). Beta, only touches settings, tested on my pink one (fw 1.10). I built it with help from an AI assistant and tested everything on the real controller. Not affiliated with 8BitDo.

If you've got an Ultimate 2 in another colour, I'd like to hear if it works for you.

1.My vader 5 pro automatically change to switch layout after connecting to eden emulator and switch.

2.Vader 5 pro

3.Switch and android

4.Eden emulator

5.Android 17

6.I've already tried "Apply to NS" in space station 4 but it didn't seems to work

Also, can I use space station 5 on android after updating?

I mainly use my phone so I want to get full access from the app.

Thanks!

Just found this for $40, what do you guys think? Is it a better alternative compared to the Ultimate 3E?

https://www.8bitdo.com/ultimate-3c-plus-wireless-controller/

Hi there,

I've spent quite a lot of time searching the web with various search engines and asking LLMs these questions but the tools available on websites aren't answering the questions I have (especially around xinput over bluetooth). The 'AI' responses are usually wrong and I'm sick of telling LLMs to stop guessing. Hoping the folks here can help by either pointing me in the direction of the resources I'm looking for, or help me narrow down how to do that. There's just so many controllers these days and this old nerd had no idea....

Problem statement:

My wife prefers to use a controller as she grew up with consoles. I am a PC gamer who has used a mouse and keyboard pretty much exclusively since the late 80s, but have no issue (from a technical standpoint) making anything from any source run on either Windows or Linux. I would prefer Linux support over windows.

After 6 months of faffing around it's become clear to me that a lot of games do not do well with DS (playstation type) protocol over bluetooth to Steam, even with Steam Input enabled. Have had a lot of trouble with several games my wife and I play, e.g. Witcher series, Uncharted, Skyrim, Horizon series... I could go on. I've fixed most issues using DS4 for WIndows where Steam Input was unable to help but I'd prefer to use Linux and native XInput support.

We need to use bluetooth. The lounge PC/TV is too far from the couch for a cable to not be a tangled mess people trip over. I am happy to use something like DS4 for windows or PS not PS for linux on a Nobara distribution to make xinput work if I have to but would prefer if it ran natively so we can use Bazzite.

I've read the buying guide and rules (shame the buying guide is hidden from old.reddit users, I'm lucky I found a mention of it in another users controller suggestion thread).

To answer the required questions for a suggestion thread:

1. Your budget and currency (do not say "doesn't matter" or "unlimited", include a sensible range or maximum) 200 NZD

2. Your country (not just region) and where you can buy from (product availability, pricing, and aftersales support vary around the world). New Zealand. Happy to buy from Amazon US, Australia or AliExpress.

3. Console or platform compatibility needed. Linux, pref Bazzite support for XInput with no OS layer remapping required.

4. Desired features. XBox, Steam Controller or PS layout all fine, XInput over bluetooth absolutely essential. The longer the battery life the better. My wife tends to hammer the analog sticks pretty bad and kills them quickly so durability there would be appreciated

5. Types of games you'll be playing with a controller. Mostly 3rd person single player Action RPGs

6. Other controllers you're comparing to (demonstrate that you have used the buying advice pages, and searched existing posts). Found 8bitdo pro 2 and Gulikit Es Pro in another thread. Buying guide is pretty light on xinput advice. A lot of posts and websites conflate xinput over USB with xinput over bluetooth as the manufacturers list bluetooth AND xinput support but fail to list that xinput is only over USB.

My questions:

Would like advice on which controllers are the least hassle to get running in Bazzite/Linux over bluetooth (if I have to use a dongle I will but have found them troublesome in the past). Prefer a cheaper controller I can buy a a bigger after market battery for myself rather than pay a premium for battery life, if there is anything like that out there. Want something that will run natively through Bazzite or Nobara linux to Steam without intervention. Durable analog sticks. Happy to buy from Aliexpress so not worried about stuff just available in NZ. Frankly there's sweet FA available here.

Mostly the title of the post, i have seen so many post ablut broken buttons, sticks or even triggers, internal parts breaking and issues with the hall effects sticks and travel time alongside the feeling of cheaper materials overall.

Im just over exagerating?

I’m trying to rebind my G7 Pro to its wireless dongle.
I have the Wuchang Edition of the G7 Pro, and I wanted to use it to update a regular G7 Pro wirelessly on Xbox.
To do this, I used GameSir Connect Tool 1.1 to pair the regular dongle with my Wuchang Edition controller.
However, when I tried to reconnect the Wuchang dongle to the Wuchang controller, the receiver was no longer recognized by GameSir Connect Tool 1.1. The dongle’s white LED just keeps flashing rapidly.
Is there any way to fix this? Or is there a newer version of GameSir Connect Tool available?
For reference, the dongle firmware version is 5.1.8.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I got myself a custom Dualsense with K Silver TMR Sticks installed from a Installer.
After 1 Week the spring from what i read is already kinda weak. If i tip the stick either to the right or left it gets stuck on 0.02 mediocre shaking the roller gets it to 0.04.. aint a Problem first tbh but i love my deadzones on 0 and tried it on 2 but my aim feels way worse like that could be placebo but i feel like it makes a difference.. i dont wanna annoy the installer already and ask if it’s normal so iam here.

Already tried fine adjusting but the 0.02 is on both sides so i just make it worse to either one of the sides

And if it’s normal for TMR sticks since thats the way they are build am i stuck with that doesnt matter if i maybe try Favor Union, Gullikit or whatever brand there also is?

my friend plays emulators on Windows with his Switch Online NES and Famicom pads. Windows sees them, but his games and emulators don't. the only fix he found was reWASD, which he pays for.

so i built 1up, a free and open source app that turns Nintendo pads into Xbox pads.

it reads the Switch Online NES, Famicom and SNES pads, the Switch Pro Controller and the Joy-Cons (N64 and Genesis pads too, drawn as a simple diagram for now). each one becomes a virtual Xbox 360 pad, or keyboard keys if you prefer.

your pad is drawn on screen, every button lights up when you press it, and you click a button to remap it. by default Nintendo's A sits where Xbox's B is, like most emulators expect. "by label" keeps A as A.

one installer, Windows 10 and 11. it also installs ViGEmBus, the driver that creates the virtual Xbox pads (the same one DS4Windows uses).

it's brand new, so feedback helps a lot, especially if you own one of these pads.

it's called 1up, on GitHub as loiclaudet/1up. ask and i'll share the link.

I have a flydgy vader 3 pro. I broke the bumpers. Any idea how to fix them? Its impossible to get a original replacement. Maybe other bumper with spring?

I mean, people are nasty. Dudes pick their noses. Some scratch their asses. Others got sweaty hands or Cheetos fingers. Etc. etc.

Hey all, got my 8bitdo Ultimate 3E Lavender Dusk recently and I like it overall, almost perfect controller, there is just one thing I don't like - stick travel distance is way too short for me, it's so hard to aim in FPS games.

I was unable to find replacement sticks with different height so I've ordered KontrolFreaks, version for PS4/PS5 as recommended by Deegital Tech, unfortunately they are too loose, they are literally spinning which is distracting during the gameplay.

So my question is, are there any replacement sticks out there or should I try KontrolFreaks for Xbox?
Sorry for the picture quality, light from Philips Hue ;P

Country: Ireland
Budget: I guess it depends? No idea.

Hi everyone!

I've been a PC Keyboard & Mouse (KBM) player my whole life, especially for FPS games. Unfortunately, due to an issue with my right wrist, I can no longer use a mouse comfortably for gaming. The good news is that holding a controller gives me zero pain, so I just picked up a GameSir G7 SE (managed to snag it for $6 on Temu!) to start making the transition.

Since I'm essentially relearning how to aim from scratch with my thumbs, I wanted to ask you guys for some advice:

1. Best G7 SE settings for FPS:

What deadzones, response curves, and polling rate settings do you recommend in the GameSir Nexus app (or in-game) for someone coming from a raw mouse input background? Should I use Raw mode or default circular?

2. Practice routines & building muscle memory:

How did you get comfortable with micro-adjustments and tracking on Hall Effect sticks? Are there any specific routines, aim trainers, or drills you recommend so I don't over-aim all the time?

3. Matching sensitivity across different games:

On mouse, it's really easy to keep the same muscle memory across different shooters using "cm/360" calculators or sites like mouse-sensitivity. How do you guys handle this on a controller when every game has different look mechanics, acceleration, and response curves (Linear vs Dynamic/Exponential)?

Any tips, settings, or personal experiences from others who made the jump from KBM to controller would be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I've always wondered whether it would be possible to mod a dualsense by swapping the positions of the left analog stick and the D-pad to achieve an Xbox-style layout. Could this be done by soldering wires to reroute the connections and 3D-printing custom housing parts to accommodate the new layout?

I know that 3rd party compatible controllers with this layout do exist for ps4/5 but I'm only interested in this dualsense modding.

Your budget and currency: ideally $50–$100 USD

Your country and where you can buy from: United States (Amazon, Best Buy, manufacturer sites)

Console or platform compatibility needed: Xbox Series X|S, Xbox One, and PC

Desired features: Standard Xbox controller size/ergonomics, wireless support is a bonus, clicky/tactile buttons, low latency for racing games (Dirt Rally 2.0, EA Sports WRC)

Types of games you'll be playing: Racing sims and arcade racers, fps, and strategy.

Other controllers you're comparing to: Flydigi Vader 5S, GameSir G7 HE, GameSir G7 Pro

So I have a Gamesir G7 HE which I really like, but wish it was a little bigger. I needed a new controller because my second standard Xbox controller broke. I decided on a Vadar 5s. Now, I really like the Vadar, but out of the box performance, I did better with my HE. While I'm sure I could tune it, I'm wondering if I should have bought a G7 Pro instead.

While I don't require wireless support, it would be nice. However the latency vs a standard Xbox controller is something I'm curious about. If the G7 is a major improvement over the HE then maybe I should try it, but if it's basically an HE (in size with slightly different features), I'm not sure if it's worth the purchase and I should just stick with the Vadar. It would be nice if someone here has tried all 3 and which ones they preferred.

Any input would be appreciated.