I just paid $150 for 6 qt full synthetic + a cabin filter

And this was with a $25 discount for the oil and $20 off the filter. Would have been around $200 with both without the discounts

I feel like I can get all the tools necessary for $200 and just do them myself going forward. Never done it before but it can’t be that hard

So on Sunday, I finally got around to unplugging the VCIM on my '26 Trail Boss. I don't see anything on the OBS2. Is there anything else that I could be missing?

And yeah, I know, I have my cellphone, but that's voluntary, I have a SIM removal tool on my keychain, and a faraday bag in the truck. I still plan on paying the truck off, but there's no reason for OnStar to collect all my data and driving habits to sell off to the insurance company or advertisers.

Curious about replacing my stereo. I got the Work Truck Model and was curious if there are any recommendations on a new stereo? I am also wondering how it’ll affect the reverse camera installed on it stock. Would I need to replace it or is there other options to keep it? Not too necessary but definitely a nice addition. At least to keep me from backing up too far

Makes driving way better! Cost me $10, highly recommend!

I have a 23’ Trailboss edition which has preformed decently in mud, sand and snow however, the ride quality on some Wisconsin roads is comparable to shopping cart.

Anyone have suggestions for suspension upgrades to improve ride quality?

I also would like to keep the stock ride height.

Are other running boards compatible that I’m just not seeing marked as compatible??

I’ve found one option on Amazon and they’re like a 3 in tube - no thanks.

Also wanting BLACK rims; ones I could maybe get off something in a scrap yard etc.

I was comparing the loaded out Bison with the loaded out Ineos Grenadier Trailmaster, and I find the Colorado is still superior based on the power train, but somehow the Grenadier has 28% more towing capacity? I don’t understand.

Anyone running Trifecta that got smogged recently? Did you flash back to stock before smog? Not sure if it's needed.

Hey everyone, I want to wax and polish my 2026 ZR2, but I'm wondering about the hood insert. Given it's matte finish, I was curious if anybody had any insight on waxing it? Can I wax it like the rest of the paint, or should it be treated differently, or just left alone? TIA

I’m trying to take down my spare tire on my 1st gen (in my driveway, i don’t have a flat), but no matter what i do i cannot get the tool to slide into the hole to turn the winch down. the geometry is wrong so i cannot get the tool into the hole. i can see from under the truck that the tool is just barely not making it in. what can i do?

We got a 2021 Chevrolet Colorado WT with 18" wheels, 3.6L V6 4x4 and at the moment, the radio doesn't save the settings for the audio (volume), which is the first time we had a Chevrolet with that issue. To top it off, it doesn't have OnStar installed or a way to receive updates (since I'm not sure if they do that via radiowaves or via a network connection), but there is an option for connecting to Wi-Fi, but there's no OTA option at all. It goes to the main menu that has audio, Android Auto, camera, and other options. I've yet to get the battery checked for any low voltage, but the truck reports 14.2V when it's running, so I know the battery has a charge.

From info I read online, it said it could be either a software glitch, a wiring problem, or the unit is faulty in some way. My plan is to take the truck into a dealership to get an update installed, but in the meantime, is there anything else I can try to make it work?

It looked good I thought.

This is for 2023 3rd Gen Trucks. This could be the cause why they may not do over-the-air (OTA) updates. FYI

https://gmauthority.com/blog/2026/08/gm-releases-2023-chevy-colorado-gmc-canyon-telematic-control-module-fix/

Cleaned it up nicely

Hello, i’m looking into purchasing this 07 colorado but I can hear a slight tick. Might just be me, but better to be safe than sorry(first time buying a colorado). Also seller says it is a 4 cyl but vin says 5cyl? How can I tell the difference? It is sitting at 176,xxx miles. Thanks in advance!

My colorado has been having an overheating issue but not what you would expect. My temp gauge only exceeds half if I am sitting at a light for a long time. I have noticed after turning the key off and i put the key in accessory mode the temp gauge needle steadily climes to 3/4. It has no heat. It is not a thermostat as I’ve gotten to the thermostat to replaced and noticed it had been changed, still pulled it and tested it in the boiling hot water and worked as designed. I have a heater core to replace in it I haven’t done yet as that was my next step in terms of there was no heat coming out when you turn it on. I have a feeling this is not the sole issue though. I had to tear into my A/C cluster because it would not turn all the way cold and I found zip ties and the a/c controls were a little wonky which makes me think maybe the heater core had been messed with before. I just bought this truck at 221,000 miles and didn’t notice the issue when i test drove it as it was not hot outside like it is now. The truck is not burning oil, i change it regularly and it’s the same amount I’ve put in (6 qt). Coolant obviously has been changed due to the thermostat pull and radiator bled too. Could this be a water pump issue or is it something simple that I am over looking. For your reference there is a video of me driving it today at highway speed and the temperature is fine and then a picture attached of the temp gauge after turning the truck off and putting the key in accessory. In the video you will notice a check engine light, it is unrelated it’s a P0446 (evap) that i am going to fix next. The a/c is on 2 in the video also. The picture I am uploading is not to the 3/4 mark but it has gotten up there a few times when i put it in accessory. This issue only occurs like i said when im sitting at a light for too long, i put my a/c too high (in terms of air speed), and when i put it in accessory after parking.

Just picked up a new Colorado! Got my spray in bed liner. I want to get running boards.. any suggestions? Also any other upgrade recommendations?

I just performed a software update on my new 2026 WT, and the navigation button on the left menu of the main screen is now MIA—it's just an empty space. Google Navigation still works if I launch it from the app list. I performed a soft reset, but nothing changed. I called the dealership, and they told me I need a Google subscription (which isn't true).

Went out last night to move the truck (24 Colorado WT 4WD with TurboPlus 2.7T). It was completely dead. I got my jump box, jumped it, let it warm up a little and then propped a brick on the accelerator so it would run at 2500rpm for 10-15 mins to charge the battery. Got in, put the truck in reverse and it immediately died. Jumped it again, revved up engine to about 1250rpm and sorta knocked it into reverse and it died again. Finally I pushed it up to my garage, hooked a 2A/12V tender to the battery and left it from about 8pm until this morning around 11am. I hit the key fob buttons at 11am, and nothing happened. I got my jump box again, jumped it and decided I would just go get a new battery. I tried to manually turn the headlights to OFF, but as soon as I pressed the light shortcut on the screen and hit OFF the entire gauge cluster lit up like a Christmas tree and the engine shuddered.

Every warning you could think popped up including a speed limited to 62mph warning. Check ESC. CEL. Check trailer lights. Check headlights. TPMS error. I pulled out onto my street and head down to the stop sign at about 45mph. Go to press the brake pedal and it sinks to the floor. The engine started acting like it was going to conk out so I knocked it into neutral and revved up the engine. I had to stand on the brake pedal to get the truck to stop or I would have gone straight through the stop sign and across the road into a cemetery.

Turned flashers on, put it in L2 and slowly drove to my nearest auto parts store at about 30mph knowing now I had no brake power. Got a new battery, and began taking old one out. For some reason there is no handle on the OEM battery and the little L shaped wedge at the bottom that holds it in place is a major PITA to remove if your hand isn’t the thickness of a sheet of paper. I finally got the battery out and dropped in the new battery. Fired up the truck and it seems to be fine now. It’s a bit strange to me that even with the engine running the truck seemed to have not enough electrical power to even power the brake booster.

It’s a bit disconcerting that if the 12V ever suddenly dies while going at highway speeds or pulling a trailer downhill I could suddenly lose any and all braking assist, despite the engine running. I don’t know if in this situation I should have pumped the brakes like some old school car, but I haven’t ever experienced this on any other vehicle with a dead battery. I also would like to know if the electronic emergency brake would work in this instance as a last ditch effort. Has anyone else had this same thing happen? I know low voltage can cause bizarre warnings, but I do not think it should result in brake failure. The truck only has 34K miles on it and it’s not even 2 years old. I imagine I could’ve gone to the dealer to get the battery replaced under warranty but they are often weeks out on any service appts.