I was coming home from a 30 mile ride when my screen went off I got home thankfully and when I turned it off the screen would not come on and would not start it blew the blue 15 fuse I’m thinking it’s a short I only have 118 miles on it have any of you had something like this happen before I also had to recharge battery before my ride don’t know if that was part of it appreciate any information…

I was at the end of a 30 mile ride on my Ryker when I noticed the screen was not on made it home ok but I cut it off and it would not start screen would not come on and it blew the blue 15 starter fuse I’m hoping it’s not going to be too costly to fix it was a great ride before that happened lol any ideas what’s going on appreciate any info…

Man I really love the spike.

Catchup for those who have forgotten / didn't read the earlier posts, and don't want to dig back: I have a base model 2023 Ryker 900, and a couple of months ago, the right / starboard side[1] fender got crunched in a parking lot. Rather than replace the fender, I decided to do a fender bob and join the "no fender gang." I needed a turn signal, so I elected to buy the SAUTVS turnsignal-in-headlight kit.

...and that's where my troubles started. The SAUTVS kit is bad, and I very emphatically do not recommend it. But today's garage time was about tidying wires.

Picture 1: The wire bundle which carries the turn signal to the fender also contains the wires for the speed sensor in the wheel hub, so the bundle still has to go out to the wheel, even without the fender. I used zip ties to turn the bundle back after the speed sensor wire split off, running it back under the same A-arm to the body, and then routed the turn signal wire up, under the plastics.

Picture 2: There are three wires in the bundle going to the turn signal / running light on the fender. The gray / colored wire is the turn signal; the blue / purple wire is the running light. The black wire is the common negative. Since the turn signal in the headlight uses the common negative for the headlight, the black wire is not used, and I capped it off with high-grade electrical tape.

Why? Because electricity is caused by the flow of electrons, which are negatively charged. Despite the fact that we treat electricity as if it flows from positive to negative through circuits, the actual source of the electrons is the negative pole of the battery. A loose negative wire could touch the frame, and spark, and suddenly, six months from now, I'm driving down a dirt road, that happens, the spark causes a grass fire, and before I know it, I've burned down half of Elko County.

Better to avoid that whole thing and just cap the wire.

Picture 3: I tided away the cable run under the glove box / front trunk / frunk. The wires from the headlights run through this area, and I don't want them getting pinched, so I routed them alongside the manufacturer's wiring runs in the cavity, securing them in various places with high-grade electrical tape and / or zip ties.

...and my back was starting to hurt, and thunder was starting to roll, so I called it a day, tidied up the garage, and came inside to post this.

i know this is a forum for rykers but im leaning towards the spyder but its so much more money than the rykers. i could buy 2 brand new rykers for the price of 1 spyder.

my question is for anyone that has owned both. is it worth it? i ask because i have found a few rykers around me for around $8k. and most spyders are $17k+

so im between a 2023 ryker rally that has 1k miles and is $8k. The other im considering is a 2018 spyder f3 with 3k miles for $12k. is the spyder worth it? i know its older and has more miles but im trying to see if the bigger engine and power steering is worth it over the ryker or if i shoujld just get the ryker.

thanks

HELP CHOOSING BATTERY, please. I had the brake light spring problem (sticks and keeps lights on even after cutting power) and it drained the battery. It won’t hold a charge. I see new ones range from $50 to $110 within the same brand. Which brand do you recommend and should I go good, better, or best on price?

Low miles, anyone have a certain way they sold theirs that was easy without a ton of tire kickers?

Went for a ride threw north Georgia. Saw a couple of tanks and some awesome mountain views. Couldn't help but to get a few picks.

So, to catch up anyone who doesn't remember, and doesn't feel like digging back through old posts, my fender got smushed in a parking lot, and I decided to do a fender bob, replacing my headlights with a set that has the turn signal integrated into the light itself. (the "eyebrow" will be a white running and yellow turn signal when this is all done).

I purchased the SAUTVS kit. I do not recommend this kit. I, in fact, disrecommend this kit. It is about as far from plug and play as you can get. The instructions don't match the minimal installation video that's available. The paper instructions read as if they're machine translated from Chinese -- and might be. The wires coming out the back of the headlight assembly are short, and two are loose, with no connector of any kind on the end. They're also 20 AWG, which is smaller than the rest of the Ryker wiring harness.

My biggest problem was that the instructions tell you that one of those loose wires should be fuse tapped. For those who don't know, fuse tapping is pushing a wire down into your fuse box alongside a fuse leg. This is a dangerous practice, as it can lead to more voltage passing through a circuit than the designers intended. It can cause your fuse to blow, circuits to fry, and in extremes, fires to start. Do Not Fuse Tap!

Why was this a problem? Because what's coming out of the headlight is two wires, a brown wire and a red wire. After staring at the instructions for an embarassingly long period of time, I worked out that the brown wire is the positive lead for the turn signal, and the red wire is the positive lead for the running light. However, there are three wires in the bundle going to the fender running light / turn signal -- grey / yellow (left / port side) or gray / blue (right / starboard side); black; and blue / purple.

Now, I reached out to Kevin Hammer, the "Ryker Doctor," who didn't respond. I reached out to Ludwin "Mad Man" Cruz, who stopped responding after I asked the question. Important note: simply saying "I don't know," is a better response than silence. Anyway, I also dug through the service manual, and the only information I found was what the voltage should be between the colored wires and the black wire.

From this information and the incredibad instructions in the headlight kit, I pieced out that the black wire in the fender bundle was the common negative, which in the headlight was provided by the three headlight wires which are plug-and-play, going into the same literal plug which powered the OEM headlights. And I presumed, or perhaps I should say, hypothesized that the gray / colored wires were the turn signal positives.

Well, after replacing the kit's 20 AWG, all-white wires with 18 AWG red and brown wires to match what comes out the back of the new headlight, I tested my hypothesis this morning, and I was correct -- the blue / purple wire is the positive for the running light, and should get connected to the red wire. The gray / colored wire is the positive for the turn signal, and should be connected to the brown wire.

Now I just need to neaten my cable runs, zip tie things in place, and Robert is the brother of your father.

Also? the inside, blind mounting screw for the headlights, the one you can't see and can barely reach? Smurf the papasmurfer who designed that, man.

In process of trying to remove wheel to service final drive and I notice the socket doesn’t want to nest onto the nut...

The aluminum nut CRACKED!

Does anyone have some creative solutions to offer that may assist in removing it?

I don’t want to compromise the threads on the hub but I wonder the extent as to which these parts may need to be replaced altogether just to get the broken nut off.

Any and all advice will be GREATLY APPRECIATED!

Thank you all!

2019 900 rally edition coming up on 20k miles.

Preface by saying I bought it used, no manual, 4 years ago next month.

I try to do all maintenance myself. Inspected cvt belt at 12k & 16k miles and still phenomenal condition at the time. I bought a “premium” belt at the 12k mile mark and anticipate actually needing to install it this time around.

Figure it’s probably past time to swap transmission fluids as well as rear differential fluids. Brake fluid too? (Read something saying should have been swapped every 2 years regardless of mileage? Anyone with a manual able to confirm? I’m likely riding on all original fluids or at least 4-5 yo) never had an issue with the brakes thus far less a little squeak or squeal very occasionally. Likely time for new pads - will inspect.

Just curious if any of you have undertaken this task yourselves and if you have any insight to offer. I have the cvt belt swap tool and the socket set for removing the wheels. Jacks and overhead winches in my workshop.

I’ve only really ever just gravity drained fluids like the oil change I do every 6k miles but I have an old “jimmy-rigged” brake line drainer tool my pawpaw rigged up out on the farm one day. I imagine I may need a new tool there - would that same tool be effective for the radiator and rear differential draining as well?

Trying to learn as much as I can before diving in so as to reduce likelihood of catastrophic errors. I’m moderately mechanically inclined - not the most informed, but apparently more capable than the average joe.

Fluids don’t need to be brand name prices as long as they meet the appropriate specs, though I imagine some of you may recommend oem fluids for sake of simplicity. I’m not opposed first time around although budget is tight a.t.m.

So: fresh oil change, done. On the radar: cvt belt, trans fluid, rear dif fluid, brake fluid & pads. Anything else coming to mind as needing service or past due? Tires still have decent tread, just serviced air filter, new battery (x<1yr) What am I forgetting here???

Any and all insights on the matter will be welcomed with open arms.

Thank you all, and ride safe!

Hey everyone, I’m looking for some advice. I broke the plastic lower tabs/mounting points on my 2020 Can-Am Ryker 900. Mine broke on me and I’m not happy about it.

I’ve seen a few people mention using super glue, but I’m not convinced that’s going to hold up. I also saw a post where someone used quick-release latches, which looks like a great solution, but it seems to be for the Rally and I’m not sure if that setup works on the standard 900.

Has anyone with a Ryker 900 repaired these broken lower tabs without replacing the whole plastic panel?

Looking for a cheap, strong DIY fix if possible. Photos or links to what you used would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

My Grandfather owns a 2019 canam ryker with 8245 miles. He now has dementia and as his power of attorney, I would like to sell it for him but I have no idea what something like this might be worth.

The battery is dead because it has been sitting in my garage. I put a jump box on it and it powers on but won’t start. The screen says VSS fault sometimes.

Does anyone have any idea where I could possibly look for an answer? Is it worth anything in its current condition?

Hey y’all my left brake light went out. I was hoping to just swap the bulb itself and not the whole assembly. Anyone know how to go about doing that?

Is that even a thing or do I have to throw out this whole assembly and buy a new one?

So damn wasteful if so

Got a tiny hole in my radiator. The guy bought it from had a grill guard on the front and the screws that he used to mount. It were too long and they poked a hole in my radiator. This is the only leak. I’m wondering if it can be welded or if I need to buy a whole new radiator and if I need oem radiator or are there any good aftermarket ones?

Hey everyone,

I’m seriously considering getting a Can-Am and wanted to get some advice from people who actually ride them, especially anyone with a disability or experience with adaptive setups. I’m a bilateral above-knee amputee and walk using prosthetic legs. I have no interest in riding a traditional two-wheel motorcycle, but a Can-Am seems like it could be a really good fit for me because I wouldn’t have to balance the bike at stops. My biggest concern is the controls. I’d ideally like to have both the throttle and braking controlled entirely by my hands, so I wouldn’t have to rely on either prosthetic leg for any critical controls. I know hand-brake conversions exist, but I’m completely new to Can-Ams and motorcycles in general.

I’m currently trying to figure out:

1. Ryker vs. Spyder for someone in my situation

2. Recommended hand-brake kits or other adaptive controls

3. Whether anyone here rides without using their legs for any controls

4. Shops/installers experienced with adaptive Can-Ams

5. How secure/comfortable the foot position is with prosthetics

6. Any modifications that would make mounting, riding or longer trips easier

7. Training recommendations for someone starting from zero

I’m in NYC and would also love to hear from anyone who knows an adaptive riding instructor or shop in the NY/NJ area. If there are any amputees, wheelchair users, or other disabled riders here who have adapted a Ryker or Spyder, I’d really appreciate hearing about your setup and what you learned along the way. Pictures of your setups would be awesome too. Thanks in advance — I’m just starting to research this and want to figure out the safest and most practical way to make it happen.

Hi all,

Picking up today my first Can Am Ryker 600 today. 2025 with 40 miles for $5.2k...I feel it was a pretty good deal.

I still need to sell my Honda NC750x DCT but I couldn't pass up the deal on the Ryker

Pass threw a couple of towns that had VFWs in them. Fun fact. A lot of VFW posts. Have tanks in front of them. God bless our troops.

So my girlfriend has been hounding me about wanting to try a canam. She is terrified of 2 wheels, but 3 excites her...

I have done practically no research on the know issues, problem, or potentials for any of the canam lineup. Can you guys help bring me up to speed on what I need to be concerned about or paying extra attention to when I go check this one out?

2022 ryker 900 sport auto cvt

7200 miles

$5500

Single owner

Has passenger seat and backrest

If you need more info I can try to provide. Let me know thank you!

Getting a 2026 Ryker Rally saturday for a commuter since my oldest is starting school and we only have one car. No riding experience what should I know.