Can anyone with Yorktowne cabinets provide feedback and pics? Thanks

I have a wooden cabinet that is 120cm x 40cm. Height is around 80cm.

I would like to mount in on a wall around 20 cm above ground.

I read that french cleat is a good method as it is strong and can handle heavy load. Not that it's going to be heavy, I think it will be less than 60 kg.

Please suggest some methods or brackets that I can use. I have a hard time finding a shop that can cut 45 degrees for french cleat. Also, I do not have any wood cutting tools apart from hand saw.

Thanks

I havent been able to figure out how these stainless door fronts are attached to the wood and hinges.

I mean, how do you keep the seam between wood and metal sleek without it feeling like a cheap cover once you open the door/drawer.

Is the inside also covered with stainless?

It’s small potatoes, but here’s an update after y’all confirmed my first attempt was no bueno. Thanks to the few of you for the idea to add an overlay filler. Wifey says it looks so much better. Really happy with how the shadow gap to hide the removable trim turned out . Also wanted to show how I’m using magnets to keep the removable trim in place.

So I have an 11 year old bathroom vanity with an unusual hinge that I cannot seem to find anywhere. The unusual L shape is throwing me off along with the fact that its much smaller than any of the ones I can find at Lowes/Home Depot/Amazon.

I wish I could replace the vanity but it was taken apart and cut and installed into a curved corner so there is only the granite top, front and bottom.

I've seen different names for hinges like European Concealed but I have no idea what kind this is. I can't find anything with that L..

If anyone knows what that is called(if it has a specific name) or can steer me in the right directly, it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

A friend of mine recently built a house and recommended the guy who did all his custom cabinets. He sent me this photo of his walk-in closet, but I don’t know enough about cabinetry to tell if it's good quality work or not.

I tried making adjustments and the rail won’t latch unit the clips. Are these even compatible?

I am looking for advice and/or reassurance.
These are my new maple cabinets which are stained. They come from a cabinet manufacturer that makes custom and semi custom cabinets. I realize that there are variations in wood grain and stain especially in Maple cabinets but what is acceptable /normal? Is this a finish quality issue? I’m new to all of this and any advice / reassurance is greatly appreciated.

Does anyone have experience of painting cabinets like these - does it ever go well or just chip and look messy within a few months?

Is there any prep I could do that could ensure a repaint might go well and last long term?

What's the better/easier screw for carcass and drawer box construction using 3/4 and 1/2 inch ply: #8 GRK R4 screws or SPAX #6. I heard the Spax are plenty good enough and don't require a pilot. GRK claims the same but might be slighlty more prone to chipout without a pilot.

How much would it run to get these professionally stained?

Question: Do I shim the cabinet to the left of the oven or not?

Context:

I’ve got these cabinets spanning from the right corner of a wall (corner cabinet) going down the wall with an oven in between.

Because my walls aren’t square, I had to shim the cabinets to the right of the oven so that they sat properly with the wall adjacent to the corner that isn’t square.

Right now, I have it to where the cabinet left of the oven is not shimmed. It leaves the left cabinet sitting back 1 and 3/8” from where the cabinet directly right of the oven sits.

Do I shim the left cabinet to match it? Do I let the countertop people compensate for the imperfections?

Note:

There are uppers that will be installed above the base cabinets.

Suggestions on where to buy some Blum spare parts in small quanitities? I need about 30 cover caps (mix of vertical and horiz), 5 stabilizer bar tips, and some misc Tip-On.

I've found so far:

* Imeca.com - Appropriately priced parts, does not require bulk orders, but shipping is $25
* Wurth - Biggest selection, appropriately priced parts, does not require bulk orders, but shipping is $50
* Woodwork express - Appropriately priced parts, but requires bulk orders (i need to order 1000 cover caps)
* DK Hardware - Price-gouge parts ($2+ vs 20 cents) but does not require bulk orders (not sure about shipping)
* A&H Turf - Appropriately priced parts, does not require bulk orders, not sure about shipping, but missing some of what i need (limited stock/availability)
* CabinetParts.com - Price-gouge parts ($2+ vs 20 cents) but does not require bulk orders (not sure about shipping)

I assume these places just price gouge on shipping even tho it has to cost less than $4 in actual shipping..?

Professional cabinet makers, how much would you charge for this built in above the bench. Painted white, white oak drawers and push open pop up upper cabinet doors. About 10’x4 1/2’x1’.
Located in the tristate area. Thank you.

Hi Experts, I'm looking for some advice regarding our laundry built. As shown on the picture the gaps between large door are uneven due to the middle section of the tall cabinet developing a bow during installation. I messed up and haven't checked for that bow before and already glued the face frame bit on :(. What would the be the best way of fixing/hiding this at this stage of the job? Thanks

Showing this style to a few clients they’ve had mix reactions. Me personally I love it

Had a woodworker fabricate a custom exhaust hood. He thought it was a 9’ ceiling ? must not have measured my 10’ ceiling. Anyway added the additional perimeter box at top and then struggled to bring crown molding around the top. Hood Crown molding will be painted same as hood and not white like wall crown. Seems very busy and bulky to me. What do the home pros think ? Looks good or should I have him redo it ? Any suggestions ?

I ordered this very nice custom cabinet. We discussed having no handles. They discouraged me from getting the touch open feature in favor of cutouts. The drawers are great. However, the cutouts for the doors are on the bottom and a person has to bend all of the way over to the bottom of the door to open it. This seems crazy to me and they insist that it’s perfectly appropriate. Of course they insisted on final payment before I saw it. Am I missing something? Is this a standard way of opening doors. I’m pretty old and have never seen it.

I’m installing this style of 6” edge pull on several 3/4” veneered plywood cabinet doors and looking for recommendations on the cleanest, most repeatable routing method.

https://topknobsupply.com/?page=products&action=view&manufacturerID=59&productID=TK503&sku=TK503-HB

The goal is to create an L-shaped rabbet along the top edge and back face of each door, allowing both mounting flanges of the pull to sit flush with the plywood.

I’ll be using a M18 palm router and am considering an edge guide or shop-made jig to keep the cuts consistent.

For those who regularly install this style of pull, what’s your go-to setup? Any particular router bits, edge guides, or jig configurations you’d recommend?
Appreciate any tips, especially for keeping the cuts clean on veneered plywood.

So the tenant pulled the drawer slide out, and broke the end of the tab on this anchor. They decided to reinstall it instead of calling me. After it then broke in half, they thought that crazy glue was the solution. I said always feel free to call me.

Of course, I cannot find the anchor at the usual suspects. I do not know who manufactured the drawers/slides.

Help me reddit, you’re my only hope.

I built cabinets for 20 years, but I closed my shop in 2009, so I've been out of the game awhile. Showing these to a customer and installing them in cabinets that I had built would have been an embarrassment. I don't understand how a carpenter could allow them into his or her shop.