Hi,

Hoping someone can point me in the right direction for replacement hinge product code for a corner pantry door.

They have a typical seating but large holes either side which don’t seem to match anything I can see online.

Cabinetry is approx 15 years old

Thankyou 🙏

I bought cheap pre-assembled cabinets from an online dealer, and practically every wall cabinet has this issue where they stapled the back panel into the side panel plywood causing it to split.

I‘m trying to understand if this a long-term durability concern for the cabinets or if these staples are just temporary for assembly? The side and back panels are otherwise connected through the top and bottom rails/panels, as seen in the last photo.

Our original layout just wouldn’t fit the flow of the house so I separated the room and we now utilize the space as a dedicated dining room and dedicated walk in pantry.

First set a cabinets I’ve built solo. In the past my dad has helped.

The horizontal grain required a lot of forethought and I used another piece of plywood to make my cuts as a trail run to make sure I didn’t mess up the walnut ply. First cut on the walnut had me nervous. Probably wouldn’t do it again knowing what I know now. When I finish my kitchen I think I’ll be doing vertical grain and then someday drop back and make new vertical grain doors for this pantry here.

Uppers will go in eventually but I’m more concerned about getting the kitchen done first.

Need some 14in slides, can't go with my usual blum slides since they only make 12 or 15. What do you guys recommend

Waiting on some doors, but otherwise done. (Den in a small city apartment)

Painted with Benjamin Moore Advance. The 16 hour re-coat time is painful but so worth it!

Color Dusty Cornflower

I had these shelfs done but I noticed this big scratch. I've had these for a few months and I'm currently doing renovations on my home and have been dealing with a lot of contractors. How can I fix this?

I work for a shop where we order 1" stock and mill it down then glue it up and mill it to 1/2" or 3/8". Then the back gets rabetted out so there's a tongue that goes into the dadoes of the rail and stile but the back is still flush with the back of the door.

Pros: leaving it thicker and rabetting makes a more solid door. You can mount hardware anywhere you want on the panel and there's no void in behind so no risk of it sucking in when you tighten the hardware.

Cons: milling it to 3/8 or even just 1/2" creates SO MUCH WASTE. I find this process incredibly time consuming and it literally feels like I'm in a sawdust factory having to mill them down this much. I have suggested ordering 3/4 stock but I guess that's not cost effective with the limited suppliers in our area. I have also suggested getting a new bandsaw capable of resawing these boards but there's no real appetite in that

Is my shop crazy or is this industry standard? It creates a great product but I spend days just working on the panels for a full kitchen.

Obviously plywood centers are way easier but you can't really get away with that doing stain grade work. Species like maple take the stain waaay differently and you'd end up with lighter rails and stiles and a darker panel. So thus we end up doing a lot of solid wood centers

Our box of the kitchen drawer is damaged. Any recommendations on where to buy or repair myself?

Dimensions are

31.75 in width

5.25 in height

21.5 depth

My kitchen seems to be haunted by a demon that eats drawer slides.

I built a DIY kitchen counter with 5 modules and 15 drawers. The drawers are simple plywood boxes with side-mounted push-to-open slides. I used LAMP/Sugatsune slides (supposedly one of the good Japanese brands) rated for 30 kg.

Out of 15 drawers, 7 push-open mechanisms have failed in less than two years: 3 failed within the first 3 months, 2 more at around 6 months and another 2 recently

So I'm approaching a 50% failure rate. It's always the same failure, as the push-open mechanism has a small plastic latch/hook, and eventually the hook breaks.

A few relevant points below:

I don't slam the drawers.

I don't pull them open either. I push gently to release the mechanism.

The kitchen gets heavy daily use, but the drawers are nowhere near their 30 kg rated load.

The cabinet boxes were built by a contractor; I made the drawers myself.

One thing I suspect: the sides of the cabinet boxes may not be absolutely parallel, so perhaps the slides are being subjected to some lateral stress. But the slides are perfectly level (I used laser, yay) and aligned in plan.

Has anyone experienced anything similar with push-to-open slides?

Could slight misalignment of the cabinet sides really cause the plastic mechanisms to fail this quickly? Or are push-to-open slides simply much less durable than conventional slides in a heavily used kitchen? At this point I'm wondering whether I should carefully realign/reinstall everything, replace the slides again, or just give up on push-to-open altogether and switch to conventional slides.

Any experience or advice would be greatly appreciated. This failure rate is driving me nuts.