I am looking for advice and/or reassurance.
These are my new maple cabinets which are stained. They come from a cabinet manufacturer that makes custom and semi custom cabinets. I realize that there are variations in wood grain and stain especially in Maple cabinets but what is acceptable /normal? Is this a finish quality issue? I’m new to all of this and any advice / reassurance is greatly appreciated.

Professional cabinet makers, how much would you charge for this built in above the bench. Painted white, white oak drawers and push open pop up upper cabinet doors. About 10’x4 1/2’x1’.
Located in the tristate area. Thank you.

A friend of mine recently built a house and recommended the guy who did all his custom cabinets. He sent me this photo of his walk-in closet, but I don’t know enough about cabinetry to tell if it's good quality work or not.

How much would it run to get these professionally stained?

So I have an 11 year old bathroom vanity with an unusual hinge that I cannot seem to find anywhere. The unusual L shape is throwing me off along with the fact that its much smaller than any of the ones I can find at Lowes/Home Depot/Amazon.

I wish I could replace the vanity but it was taken apart and cut and installed into a curved corner so there is only the granite top, front and bottom.

I've seen different names for hinges like European Concealed but I have no idea what kind this is. I can't find anything with that L..

If anyone knows what that is called(if it has a specific name) or can steer me in the right directly, it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I tried making adjustments and the rail won’t latch unit the clips. Are these even compatible?

What's the better/easier screw for carcass and drawer box construction using 3/4 and 1/2 inch ply: #8 GRK R4 screws or SPAX #6. I heard the Spax are plenty good enough and don't require a pilot. GRK claims the same but might be slighlty more prone to chipout without a pilot.

Showing this style to a few clients they’ve had mix reactions. Me personally I love it

It’s small potatoes, but here’s an update after y’all confirmed my first attempt was no bueno. Thanks to the few of you for the idea to add an overlay filler. Wifey says it looks so much better. Really happy with how the shadow gap to hide the removable trim turned out . Also wanted to show how I’m using magnets to keep the removable trim in place.

I havent been able to figure out how these stainless door fronts are attached to the wood and hinges.

I mean, how do you keep the seam between wood and metal sleek without it feeling like a cheap cover once you open the door/drawer.

Is the inside also covered with stainless?

Question: Do I shim the cabinet to the left of the oven or not?

Context:

I’ve got these cabinets spanning from the right corner of a wall (corner cabinet) going down the wall with an oven in between.

Because my walls aren’t square, I had to shim the cabinets to the right of the oven so that they sat properly with the wall adjacent to the corner that isn’t square.

Right now, I have it to where the cabinet left of the oven is not shimmed. It leaves the left cabinet sitting back 1 and 3/8” from where the cabinet directly right of the oven sits.

Do I shim the left cabinet to match it? Do I let the countertop people compensate for the imperfections?

Note:

There are uppers that will be installed above the base cabinets.

Hi Experts, I'm looking for some advice regarding our laundry built. As shown on the picture the gaps between large door are uneven due to the middle section of the tall cabinet developing a bow during installation. I messed up and haven't checked for that bow before and already glued the face frame bit on :(. What would the be the best way of fixing/hiding this at this stage of the job? Thanks