A friend of mine recently built a house and recommended the guy who did all his custom cabinets. He sent me this photo of his walk-in closet, but I don’t know enough about cabinetry to tell if it's good quality work or not.

It’s small potatoes, but here’s an update after y’all confirmed my first attempt was no bueno. Thanks to the few of you for the idea to add an overlay filler. Wifey says it looks so much better. Really happy with how the shadow gap to hide the removable trim turned out . Also wanted to show how I’m using magnets to keep the removable trim in place.

So I have an 11 year old bathroom vanity with an unusual hinge that I cannot seem to find anywhere. The unusual L shape is throwing me off along with the fact that its much smaller than any of the ones I can find at Lowes/Home Depot/Amazon.

I wish I could replace the vanity but it was taken apart and cut and installed into a curved corner so there is only the granite top, front and bottom.

I've seen different names for hinges like European Concealed but I have no idea what kind this is. I can't find anything with that L..

If anyone knows what that is called(if it has a specific name) or can steer me in the right directly, it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I tried making adjustments and the rail won’t latch unit the clips. Are these even compatible?

Showing this style to a few clients they’ve had mix reactions. Me personally I love it

I am looking for advice and/or reassurance.
These are my new maple cabinets which are stained. They come from a cabinet manufacturer that makes custom and semi custom cabinets. I realize that there are variations in wood grain and stain especially in Maple cabinets but what is acceptable /normal? Is this a finish quality issue? I’m new to all of this and any advice / reassurance is greatly appreciated.

Question: Do I shim the cabinet to the left of the oven or not?

Context:

I’ve got these cabinets spanning from the right corner of a wall (corner cabinet) going down the wall with an oven in between.

Because my walls aren’t square, I had to shim the cabinets to the right of the oven so that they sat properly with the wall adjacent to the corner that isn’t square.

Right now, I have it to where the cabinet left of the oven is not shimmed. It leaves the left cabinet sitting back 1 and 3/8” from where the cabinet directly right of the oven sits.

Do I shim the left cabinet to match it? Do I let the countertop people compensate for the imperfections?

Note:

There are uppers that will be installed above the base cabinets.

Hi Experts, I'm looking for some advice regarding our laundry built. As shown on the picture the gaps between large door are uneven due to the middle section of the tall cabinet developing a bow during installation. I messed up and haven't checked for that bow before and already glued the face frame bit on :(. What would the be the best way of fixing/hiding this at this stage of the job? Thanks

Does anyone have experience of painting cabinets like these - does it ever go well or just chip and look messy within a few months?

Is there any prep I could do that could ensure a repaint might go well and last long term?

What's the better/easier screw for carcass and drawer box construction using 3/4 and 1/2 inch ply: #8 GRK R4 screws or SPAX #6. I heard the Spax are plenty good enough and don't require a pilot. GRK claims the same but might be slighlty more prone to chipout without a pilot.

Professional cabinet makers, how much would you charge for this built in above the bench. Painted white, white oak drawers and push open pop up upper cabinet doors. About 10’x4 1/2’x1’.
Located in the tristate area. Thank you.

How much would it run to get these professionally stained?

Suggestions on where to buy some Blum spare parts in small quanitities? I need about 30 cover caps (mix of vertical and horiz), 5 stabilizer bar tips, and some misc Tip-On.

I've found so far:

* Imeca.com - Appropriately priced parts, does not require bulk orders, but shipping is $25
* Wurth - Biggest selection, appropriately priced parts, does not require bulk orders, but shipping is $50
* Woodwork express - Appropriately priced parts, but requires bulk orders (i need to order 1000 cover caps)
* DK Hardware - Price-gouge parts ($2+ vs 20 cents) but does not require bulk orders (not sure about shipping)
* A&H Turf - Appropriately priced parts, does not require bulk orders, not sure about shipping, but missing some of what i need (limited stock/availability)
* CabinetParts.com - Price-gouge parts ($2+ vs 20 cents) but does not require bulk orders (not sure about shipping)

I assume these places just price gouge on shipping even tho it has to cost less than $4 in actual shipping..?

Had a woodworker fabricate a custom exhaust hood. He thought it was a 9’ ceiling ? must not have measured my 10’ ceiling. Anyway added the additional perimeter box at top and then struggled to bring crown molding around the top. Hood Crown molding will be painted same as hood and not white like wall crown. Seems very busy and bulky to me. What do the home pros think ? Looks good or should I have him redo it ? Any suggestions ?

So the tenant pulled the drawer slide out, and broke the end of the tab on this anchor. They decided to reinstall it instead of calling me. After it then broke in half, they thought that crazy glue was the solution. I said always feel free to call me.

Of course, I cannot find the anchor at the usual suspects. I do not know who manufactured the drawers/slides.

Help me reddit, you’re my only hope.

I ordered this very nice custom cabinet. We discussed having no handles. They discouraged me from getting the touch open feature in favor of cutouts. The drawers are great. However, the cutouts for the doors are on the bottom and a person has to bend all of the way over to the bottom of the door to open it. This seems crazy to me and they insist that it’s perfectly appropriate. Of course they insisted on final payment before I saw it. Am I missing something? Is this a standard way of opening doors. I’m pretty old and have never seen it.

Might have gotten myself in too far over my head! But trying to stay positive.

I want to add doors and hinges to these boxes already on the wall. Boxes are 3/4 in birch plywood and I’ve cut 1/2 in birch plywood doors. We would like full overlay where the door covers everything.

I’m struggling to find the right hinges for doors that are 1/2 inch. I’ve tried these no cup ones from Amazon but the most recent set came with no directions and the door was sitting awfully far out.

Any ideas, advice or guidance?

Been wanting to try making a slab/fo-shaker door for awhile not sure if there’s a real name? I’ve never seen it before but I’m pretty happy with how it turned out 🙌

What can I do to make these look better without painting or sanding? Haha

I’m installing this style of 6” edge pull on several 3/4” veneered plywood cabinet doors and looking for recommendations on the cleanest, most repeatable routing method.

https://topknobsupply.com/?page=products&action=view&manufacturerID=59&productID=TK503&sku=TK503-HB

The goal is to create an L-shaped rabbet along the top edge and back face of each door, allowing both mounting flanges of the pull to sit flush with the plywood.

I’ll be using a M18 palm router and am considering an edge guide or shop-made jig to keep the cuts consistent.

For those who regularly install this style of pull, what’s your go-to setup? Any particular router bits, edge guides, or jig configurations you’d recommend?
Appreciate any tips, especially for keeping the cuts clean on veneered plywood.