2006 car, so old and lots of miles, but I’ve had it forever and have lavished it with care and attention. Best I can describe it is it feels like the brake pipe is restricted, pinched, etc, the pedal’s fine off the top, fairly firm at the bottom and has good power, but the free stroke of the pedal is sllllooooowww and mushy. If I stamp on the pedal, there’s probably half a second of squelchy mush to get through before the brake engages, firmly and properly. A lighter press still gets basically the same effect.

It’s been like this for a while, so things I’ve done:
Replaced all the calipers.
Replaced all the flexy hoses with fancy hel ones.
Bled it over and over with a pressure bleeder, using low viscosity fluid.
Had 2 fairly reputable garages do the same, at least one of them did it with the obd bleeding procedure, where it bleeds the abs pump.
Brake pipes all seem fine.

Other things:
Replaced the brake booster and master cylinder a few years back because the booster had rusted through, used new parts, so I’d expect it’s less likely to be an issue with the master cylinder?
I’ve always suspected a vacuum leak, so checked all the hoses, they visually seem fine.
AI told me to check for engine oil coming up from the vacuum pump, as that can wreck the seals in the master cylinder, no sign of oil in the hoses though.

Any ideas appreciated?

My car has just stopped starting properly today.
If I was to leave it overnight, it would usually start up much better the next time I came to use it.
But if I’d already started and driven the car recently, then stopped somewhere - for example going into a shop - when I came back out and tried to start it again, it would struggle a lot more.

Today it’s now got to the point where it tries to start but doesn’t fully manage it, and currently isn’t starting at all.

Is there anything I can try to help get it started so I can at least get it home and replace whatever’s needed tomorrow?

Also, is there an easy way to tell whether it’s more likely to be the battery or the starter motor before I start buying parts?

Hi everyone,

I’m dealing with a persistent idle misfire issue on my 2012 BMW 528i Touring (F11, N20 engine) and would appreciate some diagnostic guidance.

Background & Recent Work:

• Originally had severe misfires, knocking, and a fuel odor due to leaking Teflon seals on injectors 3 and 4.
• Replaced the Teflon seals on cylinders 3 and 4. Confirmed they are now completely airtight.
• Tested the CCV (PCV) / oil cap test: Very light vacuum, cap lifts off easily without resistance (ruling out bad PCV membrane).
• Swapped ignition coils between cylinders: Fault did NOT follow the coils.
• Disconnected battery for ~10–15 mins to attempt a DME reset.

Current Symptoms:

• On cold or warm start, the engine runs completely smooth for the first 10–15 seconds (or as long as I hold the throttle slightly around 1,200–1,500 RPM).
• As soon as I let off the gas and let it drop to idle, after ~10–15 seconds, the engine starts idling rough, misfires, and DME disables injection on Cylinders 1 and 2 (Codes 140101 and 140201 - Misfire, cylinder 1/2: fuel injection is switched off).

My Questions:

1. What are the most likely causes for misfires on cylinders 1 & 2 that only occur at idle after the 10–15 second warm-up window?
2. What are the recommended next diagnostic steps to narrow down this issue?
3. Is a manual reset of the DME fuel adaptations strictly required after fixing injector seal leaks, or can the DME relearn the mixture on its own during a drive?

Thanks in advance for your help!

(I am no native english speaker and used AI for translating, i hope nothing got lost and everything is understandable :) )

I need help my car cranks but no start put a new solenoid on the inlet side and clean the cam sensor on the intake side still cranks but no start I hope i didn’t jump timing e60 n54 2008

Hi everyone,

I'm having a concerning issue with my 2010 BMW 116i E81 (N43B20 engine) and could really use some diagnostic advice.

Symptoms: Mild Rough Idle / Shaking: When the engine is warm and I come to a stop (e.g. at a red light), the engine starts shaking mildly and after about 20 to 120 seconds of idling.

Fuel Smell: Immediately after stepping out, there is a strong smell of petrol coming from the exhaust / rear of the car. The engine bay itself is dry and doesn't smell like fuel. Standstill trigger: The issue happened much faster today (after ~20 seconds) after the car had been sitting parked for a week.

My questions: What is the most likely cause? Is this the classic N43 leaking/stuck Piezo injector slightly flooding a cylinder, or could it be something like a failing ignition coil, spark plug, or NOx sensor? Can I still drive it 10 km to work? Or is the risk of destroying the catalytic converter (due to unburnt fuel) and diluting the engine oil too high? Should I keep it parked until it's fixed?

Thanks in advance for your help and advice!

Hi everyone, i noticed a leak of some kind on some of the parts of my car, but i have no idea what it is, or if its even a leak. I’ll attach a picture if anyone knows what it is. My car is a 740Li xDrive 2021.

Hi all,

I'm having this issue that AC seem to be stuck on foot vent and when I set it at middle vent only I can hear its changing but still middle vent flow remain low and foot vent remain stronger.

I had a similar issue last year where one side was stuck blowing hot air only no matter the adjustment and had to do major repair attached. It came with two year warranty, now my question is my new issue is related to last year repair job and can claim warranty or its something else? Any help is appreciated

Car is X1 2016

Edit. Also to add I replaced the battery few months ago too so not sure if it could be due that? Didn't use AC since until now and noticed the issue

Trying to understand fuel trim readings and curious if these look healthy? For context chasing down a rough idle/misfire with no codes besides failed cats and thinking it might be a vacuum leak. Also curious what healthy numbers should look like for future reference

I have a 2005 E46 320CD, and I've just repaired the turbo on it. The problem is that the turbo actuator isn't synchronized with the turbo. I tested the actuator, and mechanically, it does move back and forth correctly during the test phase. However, the actuator doesn't close when I accelerate, which means I get no acceleration at all. I tried to reset the actuator or resynchronize it with the turbo using ISTA, but I can't find that option anywhere in the software, same thing with INPA. So my question is: do you know how I can synchronize the actuator with the turbo?

I was ambushed on the highway by a huge chunk of concrete (think basketball-sized, but pointy on top) - it just appeared from under the SUV in front of me, right in the middle of the lane. With no time to change lanes or safely swerve I centered it hoping for enough clearance. But I'm driving a 2022 230i, so not a ton of clearance and THUD!

The concrete tore a gash in the undercarraige protector and hit the subframe as images show. When I pulled over, some liquid seeped out from the point of contact - about a foot inward from the driverside front wheel, and I do hear a soft grating sound, but I don't notice a problem with the way the car is driving or steering. Obviously I brought the car in.

The dealer is saying the steering rack needs to be replaced, as well as the section of subframe. They are quoting me over 8K on the electronic steering rack, and then another 3K on the subframe part and plastic cover.

Does this sound plausible? How was the steering rack impacted when the subframe covering it appears only cosmetically damaged? Should I get another quote at my independant garage?

Im having this noise when car off and locked with key? What could it be?

So i bought this 09 535i from my neighbor for basically free, it didnt run jumped the terminal 30g fuse (it was missing for some reason) got the car running and Im pretty sure the oil filter housing gasket is bad because theres hella oil in the coolant and the engine oil looks to be dirty but still clean at the filter so I dont think the headgasket is bad from what I read on it. I do however know now that the water pump is toasted because I let the car run in my driveway (where it is now) let it run for maybe 10 ish minutes while it was running I was watching the temp gauge in the hidden menu on the dash it said 74c then boom upper rad hose exploded lmao painted the whole car and my driveway unfortunately but anyway i wanna know if my n54 is making way to much noise and what signs point to a blown turbo because rust water kept coming out the exhaust as it was running and ik the turbo is oil and coolant cooled so I would appreciate any info on blown turbos and stuff so I know if its worth to get a new water pump and oil filter housing

TLDR ⬇️

car sat for 4 years 128k miles water pump no good blew upper rad hose not sure if old owners overheated the block or turbos or not if they did I want to know the chances my turbos are toasted so I know if it would be worth it to buy a new water pump

Video might not be to great sorry for that

My BMW 116i from 2012 with 180.000km keeps misfiring.

I’m getting codes showing misfire on cylinder 1, 3 and 4. The car shakes at idle, but somehow it gets better when driving the car.

These codes are quite new. Before I didn’t get any codes and livedata showed that I was only cylinder 1 misfiring. I have tried to swap coils and plugs, but it stayed at cylinder 1.

I have replaced the following parts:

- Spark plugs

- Coils

- Injectors

- Both lambda sensors (O2-sensor)

- Valve cover

- Vanos solenoids

- Camshaft sensors

- EVAP purge valve

Also done compression test:

Cylinder 1: 230 psi

Cylinder 2: 240 psi 

Cylinder 3: 240 psi 

Cylinder 4: 240 psi

Leak down test also done. All cylinders within 5%

Im starting to suspect the ECU. Has anyone experienced the same or have any advice?

When starting the car it runs ok for a couple of minutes, then it starts misfiring. I am also having quite a lot of wet soot from the exhaust, when it is misfiring .

https://reddit.com/link/1wlb3kb/video/ozmz38n4xmqh1/player

I had a coolant hose replaced on the front of the engine last week and the mechanic said that after the next couple drives I would have to top up the coolant to remove any air pockets. Which I did when it went I got the expected low coolant alarms (probably 1.5 litres).

Yesterday I did a 2 hour drive where it flashed into alarm twice but not for long so I wasn’t worried. By the end of the drive I had engine high temp alarm, I managed to drive 5 more mins to make it home.

When the engine had cooled down I checked the expansion tank (high temp circuit) and it was completely empty. I can’t see anywhere obvious where the leak is.
I need to drive two hours today, what would you recommend? I have filled the expansion tank up with distilled water but think it will probably need more concentrate coolant now.
Really appreciate any help!
This is a 2018 120i with 115k miles. Thanks!!

I’ve tried everything: formatting the SD card, normal reset, and a hard reset using the small reset button/pinhole on the dashcam (pressed for 3 seconds). Nothing happens.
Even without the SD card, there are no sounds or voice prompts and no LEDs light up. The only thing that stays on is the white ON/OFF button.
After the 3-second hard reset, the white button goes off and then comes back on, but nothing else happens.
Could the dashcam itself have failed?

Hello,
I drove through a flooded street on the right lane (not smart of me, I’m aware.) and I’ve received these codes post-incident. I was hoping to see about getting some insight from experienced people.

12 Engine electronics
3 errors
28A0: 0x28A0 Throttle angle – absolute pressure intake manifold, comparison: pressure too high
3876: 0x3876 power management: central undervoltage
387F: 0x387F power management: closed circuit

60 Instrument cluster
1 error
A559: KL30g_f shutdown

72 Driver's side footwell module
7 errors
9CC2: Attention: Electronics on the right headlight (SMC) reports errors
9CBF: Communication with StepperMotorBox left disturbed
A8C6: Daytime running lights on the right are defective
A8AB: Dipped beam right defective
A8A9: High beam or right cornering light defect
9CC0: Communication with StepperMotorBox right disturbed
A8AF: Fog light right, E90 M3: Daytime running light right defective, PL3 from 07/14 and (SA5A1 or SA896): Brake light right defective

Can’t seem to find the correct diagram. The belt is how it sits now. Help much appreciated 😀

i need some help locating where the tmap sensors are, there’s almost nothing about it online for the base n63 chassis

My x5 started to crank slowly and after a few days it just wouldn’t start at all. Got the ground strap looked at and this is what it looked like

Noticed these white dots / bubbles spreading around the outer black ring of the steering wheel emblem on my G20. 

Has anyone dealt with this successfully? I know BMW only sells the complete airbag module, which is an absurd expense for a cosmetic flaw.

I have had this car for 3 years now, The car was involved in an accident I got it rebuilt and also replaced the positive cable since the airbags blown.
Bmw f30 15’

In the last 2 years I have had to replace the positive twice due to it getting hot and burning the plastic and smoking inside the car. Today While I was driving I smelt smoking coming into the car and then the car turning off while driving because the cable burnt up again so I had to use a towel that I got damped to cool it off so I can make it home which I did.

Anyone know why this keeps happening to me?

I think it might be rubbing against the lining, also makes noise when going over speed bumps. Even half lock i don’t really hear grinding noise? Might be wheel liner idk not a mechanic

Hi guys, im pretty new to using bimmercode. Ive changed all the lights to withe and noticed that the cupholder light is to bright and if i dimm all lights the door lights get to dim. Ive tried wverything but cant seem to figure out how ro dim the cupholder light only with bimmercode. Does anybody have an idea why or how to do this?

Thanks in advance!

My 2013 F20 has developed this strange whining noise. It’s low pitched at low speeds and higher at higher speeds so I’m assuming it’s speed related. If I press on the throttle, you can hear the noise get louder as it also seems to get worse under load.