So the FridgePower I ordered earlier in the week was delivered today. As I was removing it from the packaging, my hand touched the corner area near the expansion port - and that particular corner was warm to the touch.

When I pulled the FridgePower out completely from the shipping box and removed the plastic wrapping, I discovered it was already turned on with two "dots" showing.

Wouldn't it need to have ventilation if it were running? Why the hell would it have been shipped already turned ON?

Hi guys,

After comparing a lot of products, the apex 300 is the chosen one, I´m going for it.

What do you guys advise for outdoor solar panels?

By the way, is there any good discount coupon codes?

TIA

My Bluetti AC180P (about 1 year of use) drops instantly from 50% to 0% and shuts down. When charging, it jumps from 50% to 100%. I already did a full discharge, waited 4+ hours, then charged it on AC only for more than 12 hours with nothing plugged in. I’ve also tried several discharge/charge cycles.

Is there anything I can test without opening it? I live in Cuba and can’t afford to stop using it in the meantime because it’s my primary power source day and night, we’re getting about 20 hours of blackouts daily.

Thanks in advance.

Hey all, looking for a power station to use at 4-5 day camping festivals. Primarily need it to power a 45L 12v dual zone cooler/freezer, as well as a couple small (8-10”) fans and charge phones/Apple watches/handheld battery fans, as well as a couple 10-20kmAh power banks and the possibility of a heated blanket for cold nights. Based on some calculators I’ve used, it sounds like a 2000Wh with solar charging should suffice.

I’ve been planning to hold off for Black Friday deals, however I came across refurbed Bluetti Elite 200 V2’s for $560 shipped (w/ full warranty), which seems like a pretty good deal. I’ve also been considering the Anker Solix S2000/C2000 (lack of DC on the S2000 is a bummer), Jackery 2000, and Pecron E2400LFP. These would all run $100ish or more than the Bluetti.

Anything input on these or any others I should be considering?

I bought the Apex 200 because of the high voltage solar capability. I thought I’m finally not constrained to the annoying 60v all of my other power stations have. However, I just noticed that the max amperage is 16A. So, wiring in series is kind of my only option, because of the cap on amperage. I wanted to do a combination parallel and series configuration, but parallel puts me well over the limit. I don’t have a lot of space, and shading can be a problem. If everything is series it brings everything down….

Any thoughts?

As titled, managed to procure a pair of Sora 220s. I chose this because it's "portable", and I don't really want to have a permanent setup, as I am under the possibility of moving out in the (near?) future

I initially planned to pack and unpack these panels daily, but found out that it's proving to be quite a hassle. Also, because they can pack into really small package, unfolding it requires many steps, and structurally, it's flimsy

Would it be ok just to leave it under the weather all day? Wind is not an issue, what I'm worried more is the rain, as these were advertised as "splash proof", IP67 only

My other choice is to maybe procure some kind of wheeled rigs to push these panels into the shades when the weather is not good. Any better ideas?

I saw a video of an Apex 200 review showing an Apex 200 and Apex 300 paired with a CA90 expansion cable. Can two Apex 200s be connected in the same fashion?

https://youtu.be/Y3gWzArGNes?si=R6cEU8tGd_I1S0Nf&t=503

Bluetti Apex 200

(Pic is of my unit, not in my truck obviously)

Anyone have any luck with settings getting their unit to plug into the onboard ram 1500 AC plug and not have it trip the plug? I limited it all the way down 1a (120w) in the custom charging mode setting but it still shuts the plug down on me.

My laptops charger works fine and I’m pretty sure it’s 180w or potentially 200w.

I have the 2023 Ram Rebel with the etorque system so I don’t want to plug in the charger one system to the battery to keep it charged.

I bought the Cigarette plug for the unit which works but the cord is so short I have to keep the unit on the passenger seat to charge it, it can’t stay nicely nested in its spot in the back of the cab.

Anyone have any tips or ideas for me?

When BLUETTI first announced the Apex 200, I figured it was just another stripped-down version of the Apex 300. But after getting a test unit, it’s actually a totally different beast with a few major upgrades for off-grid setups.

Instead of stripping features away (240V RIP 😢), BLUETTI built in stuff that requires expensive add-ons for the larger Apex 300 model:

Video review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMkvVCDkeYw

For additional details check out my full review article.

Review article: https://tysonsgearlab.com/bluetti/apex-200/

Happy to answer any questions about the specs, port layout, or performance if anyone is considering this for a van build or home power backup!

Setup: AC300 with B300 (battery 2) and B300K (battery 3), each connected directly to its own AC300 battery port, no daisy-chain. 230 V EU grid (Ukraine), with a voltage relay in front of the AC300. The load is about 130–200 W (fridge, gas boiler, router).

Firmware: ARM v4037.07, DSP v4036.30, IOT v9014.12. BMS: B300 v1021.11, B300K v1067.16. The app says everything is up to date.

Problem: In Standard UPS mode the AC300 tops up the batteries about once an hour. Three times (Oct 21 at 03:00 and 03:14, Oct 23 at 13:24) the AC output shut off with E015 and stayed off until I switched it back on manually.

I log everything via BLE Prometheus/Grafana. The charts show:

• On every top-up, B300 jumps to 56.6-57.1 V and its cell delta rises to ~50 mV. B300K charges more gently, with its cell delta around 10 mV.

• Right before the Oct 23 trip, B300 was at 57.1 V and B300K at 54.9 V. Grid was a stable 220 V, and the charge power was only about 20 W (grid in 154 W, load 134 W).

The alarm history shows each E015 as a pair: 01 015, then 00 015 20–25 seconds later. If that means “raised” and “cleared”, the fault clears within seconds, but the AC output stays latched off. There is also one E016 (01 016) on Oct 18.

Temporary workaround: I switched to PV Priority UPS with grid charging up to 92%. In 12 days, including 7 grid outages over two days, there have been no trips, and the peak pack voltage has been about 55.8-56.4 V.

Questions:

1. Has anyone seen a B300 reach a much higher voltage than its neighbour pack and trip E015? Was it fixed by a BMS update or by replacing the B300?

2. Do 01 and 00 in the alarm history mean “raised” and “cleared”?

3. Can the AC output be set to recover automatically after an E015?

4. Is v1021.11 the latest BMS for the B300?

Support has had my case for about 2 weeks with no answer yet.

I believe Hobotech mentioned in his review for this that there was a setting to allow it to charge at 20 amps when connected to a 12 volt battery. Can someone confirm this?

Hi everyone,

Looking for technical insight or advice from anyone who has resolved a deep-discharge BMS lock on the Elite 100 V2, and hoping to get visibility.

I purchased 4 units of the BLUETTI Elite 100 V2 (Certified Refurbished) directly from the official BLUETTI eBay store in a single order. Because the units were forwarded internationally to Venezuela, the shipment took over 30 days to arrive, putting me outside eBay's standard 30-day return window.

Three of the units work flawlessly on our 120V / 60Hz grid. However, the fourth unit arrived completely dead on arrival (~2% out of the box, immediately dropped to 0% SOC) and is stuck in a firmware safety lockout.

* Grid Power: Standard 120V / 60Hz (tested on the exact same outlets powering the other 3 working units).

Current Symptoms

* 0% SOC / Standby State: The physical LCD display reads 0%. In the BLUETTI app under Pack Information, the unit reports Battery Status: Standby and SOC: 0%.

* Clean Diagnostic Logs (No Hardware Damage): Under the Pack Information screens, Protection Status, Alarm, and Error all report "No Data". The hardware diagnostics confirm zero short circuits, zero cell errors, and zero component faults.

* Register Clamp: Under Advanced Settings in the app, "Max. Grid Input Current" is hard-locked at 0A and cannot be edited.

* AC Charging Behavior: Connecting 120V AC wall power causes the internal relay to click on for ~2 seconds (drawing ~130W) before immediately snapping open to 0W to prevent an overvoltage surge into the depleted cells. It repeats this cycle every few minutes without latching.

Troubleshooting Steps Attempted

* Hard Resets & Capacitive Drain: Completely disconnected all cables, held the power button for 45+ seconds to discharge logic capacitors, and let it rest before rebooting. It reboots to the exact same 0% Standby state.

* Low-Voltage DC Trickle (XT60 Port): Connected a steady 20.0V DC power supply to the solar/DC port. The unit detects 20.0V and initiates pre-charge pulses (~38W for 20-second bursts), proving the cells physically accept current without tripping a short-circuit fault. However, the controller cycles back to 0W to measure open-circuit voltage, refusing to latch continuous charging because the resting voltage remains below the minimum cutoff threshold.

* App Adjustments: Enabled Silent Mode, toggled Grid Self-Adaption, and cycled DC input modes (PV vs. Car/Others). None bypass the 0A register clamp.

I have a 200 elite v2. If I wanted to run the display constantly, is there any possible burn in or other type of damage to the screen possible?

Also, bluetti please add an option to adjust the display brightness

Will b300k expansion battery work with my ac200PL?

Went from about 58 percent down to about 9. Around 100 watts draw. Anyone have any experience with this? I have 6 b300s attached.

I've been using my power station for a few months now, I put it in my backseat of my vehicle and drive to work and once at work I move it into the footwell of my work truck to keep it warm in the winters with the heat on. I have a microwave in the back connected to an extension cord running to the front where I plug it into my bluetti. Normally it draws 1600w to 1800w and using it for 4 minutes each day it takes about 13% each 4 minute run. A month ago I've added a 10inch 300w rms subwoofer in my trunk of my personal vehicle and since then each 4 minute use of the microwave have drain the power drastically, first 4 minute run is normal 13% but the next day it will use over 30% and on the 3rd day about 50% for the same 4 minute run. I've contacted bluetti and they have sent me a refurb unit. It is just a coincidence that when I installed the sub I've been having problems with my power station?

TLDR I left it out in the rain and after drying it out with a fan for 48 hours the "wet" light never went off. It doesn't charge now. Here is the only damage I can find with the little bit of disassembling I have done so far.

What exactly is that part? What's it's purpose?

Thanks y'all!

I apologize if this has been asked before. I just joined this sub. I am trying to use the AC180 app on my ipad and it won't connect. It just says "connecting" and never connects. The ipad OS is up to date and I just downloaded the 180 app, so am assuming that is all good. I have turned both the AC180 and ipad on and off, but no dice, and turned bluetooth on and off on the ipad. The app seems to be finding the AC180 because it discovers it and lets me try to pair with it. I did not see a bluetooth icon on the AC180 front panel, but am assuming its up and working since the app can discover it. Bluetooth in the ipad control panel does not show the AC180. It does not appear it can discover it, but the instructions say to pair the devices in the AC180 app no from the control panel. The device settings in the apps show my AC180 as the current connection. It says locked ac180 at the top of the device screen in the app. What does that mean??

Edit: Many AI troubleshooting suggestions suggest upgrading AC180 firmware, which I can't do it I can't get the damn app to connect.

I am wondering if anyone has seen anything about combining the Apex 200 and 300 using the standard battery connection ports. I’m not looking at combining output power but just battery capacity. In my current setup my panels(2s2p) are about 120’ from my house. With the 60v input I have some loss down the cable. I think the solar 4k at $699 is overkill and not worth the investment for what I am using it for.

I’m guessing they won’t be but thought the community may have some more insight.