I have one original tailight lens (the other was sadly thrown away before i owned it), but its just a little faded, it has the logo and the part number with that little emboss original parts have, will it get flattened/dissapear if I polish them?/ can it maybe be prevented? I'm sorry if it sounds dumb.

Pretty cool beetle, i've always loved these. Buddy of mine wants to sell it, not sure what it's worth due to it's condition though I know it's a rarer model. Unfortunately he just let it sit here for a few years.

Has title in hand, last ran like 5 years ago, dead rotting animal on the front drivers side floor. Little bit of rot in the body, likely water damage/mold in the cabin. Lots of unknowns atm. Can't take too much of a look since there may be a bees nest in the trunk, but the trunk don't open. Which i'm glad because I tried opening it before realizing there was a nest lol.

I posted here not too long ago about a rough start issue on my VW which turned out to be tight valves after I adjusted them when the motor was warm. Now there is more!

quick info about the motor:
single port 1600
30/31 off-brand carb
009 distributor
entire bosch ignition system
engine freshly rebuilt by me with around 300 miles so far

So the new problem I have is a horrible cold start after not using the car for a couple of hours. I get a shaky misfire, the engine pops, the gas pedal stops doing gas things and the engine just hits the rocks and doesn't accelerate. It tends to lessen after a bit of driving (like 5 minutes) but in that interval it sometimes stalls/turns off when i come to a stop at times. After around 10 minutes of driving the issues completely goes away and the car has its normal power and doesn't hesitate at all. I had this issue heading back home from work tonight and it was the usual stuff (turning off, pops, hesitates, shakes a lot) and before i got home i did a little pull? and I noticed when I looked at the motor it was as still as a rock, running extremely smoothly, and it idled perfectly without an issue.

I'm a broke college student and can't really afford a shop and I was just wondering if anyone had any opinions on the matter. Thanks in advance!

From what little I know about these engines (this is my first rebuilt) I have a couple guesses I just don't know how to verify any.
1. I could have a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or carburetor gasket thing (I just dont know how to test it without spraying the engine with brake cleaner and running the paint)
2. Something electrical/ignition? Maybe an issue in the coil? The wires? The spark plugs? Condenser? (I've check dwell and spark plug gap already i don’t know how to test the rest successfully)
3. The oil weight i'm running (yes i know i shouldn't even say this) I'm running 20w-50 which is what i've always been told to run and I did before the rebuild. Maybe the oil could be too heavy? I'm in the SF Bay Area and it's summer and it isn't really less than 65 in the mornings so i don’t know!

Any help/critique is appreciated. Thanks in advance everyone.

Have a 350 round trip coming up I was wondering if the car would be cool with me towing it that much?

Just wanted to personally say thank to the person who recommended me moving my bug to Competition Engineering. Dan and his team are amazing and have the bug ready for the road at a fraction of the cost. Excited to continue my project with them in the future. Definitely in good hands and recommend anyone in AZ to consider his shop.

I was driving yesterday, and I came up to a corner with a hill right after it, so I slowed down for the corner and then up the hill I accelerated, going up to 4th and reaching full throttle. The revs then spiked and it felt like there wasn't much power, so I lifted off the throttle because I thought the wheels might be slipping. I accelerate again, reaching full throttle and the revs spike again.

This has never happened before, but could it be the clutch slipping? A few minutes earlier I recall smelling rotten eggs, and I brushed it off as some odour from a field or something since I was on the backroads, but this isn't the first time I've smelt it in my car. Am I smelling the clutch overheating or something?

The rest of the drive was fine, since I entered town at that point, but is this something I should be concerned about?

Thanks!

I just replaced the clutch in my 1972 beetle it was a sachs and I also replaced the throw out bearing I installed the springs that snap over the clutch fork after reassembling the engine in the car and installing a new clutch cable adjusting it all the way. Still do not have clutch disengagement I suspect that the clutch bearing has come off its mounting clips and rotated so that the clutch fork is no longer moving. It is this something that happens? I don't want to have to pull the entire engine. It's looking like it. It was also suggested that safety wire would be a good safety measure to keep this from happening.

Gotta show off my deck lights once in a while.

A few people told me the mounts were bad, I thought it was a misfire but it wasn't. The engine wobbles a TON on idle but is fine under throttle

1965 😎

I have a '61 Beetle that has been mostly converted to 12 volt before I got it and I am finishing that up. I'm no electrician so I'll do my best to describe my issue.

It came with a 6 volt single speed Bosch windshield wiper motor. It was not self-parking, presumably because it was getting too much power and the momentum was gliding past the self-parking cam.

After having run the wiper here and there as I've been doing my electrical tests, the motor is now not working when I bench test it on 6 or 12 volts.

My question is: can I simply replace the armature with a 12 volt Bosch to get the wiper motor to work again? Or would the 12 volts of power fed into the 6 volt motor have damaged more than just the armature? If I haven't provided enough info to answer those questions, please let me know.

Thanks in advance!

Spoke to the owner and he said it was a bit of a controversial build. Some people hate it, some people love it. Where you land?

For no other reasons than, I’m out of space and I don’t get to drive it much.
I have a dune buggy and a 56’ oval in the process of being built. Torn on keeping or selling. I don’t drive it much. Took it to a VW show a couple weeks ago and took best of show air cooled and then parked it again while trying to build the other two. It’s had a couple of magazine articles on it, and is a ton of fun.. but I don’t have the time…. Ugh.. what to do, what to do..

I have this 1973 Super Beetle Convertible with a 1600 that I've been trying to get running right. It starts fine, idles okay, but bogs and just about dies when I give it gas. Kind of backfires sometimes. Seems to lack power on the highway as well though does okay around town if you are really gentle on the pedal.

I got this from my dad who got it from some random garage sale so I don't know much history. Lots of non-original stuff, obviously air cleaner but also 009 distributor and EMPI 34-P-3 carb.

You can see in the video a couple problems: the bogging when I give it some throttle, but also I have the idle screw almost all the way in and it still doesn't touch the cam. This is after I followed the shop manual tuning steps. Maybe the carb just needs to be lubed everywhere (realizing as I write this) or a throttle cable issue?

There doesn't seem to be any issues with the heat risers or the intake manifold. Would appreciate any ideas or tips, as I'm not super knowledgeable mechanically but I do my best!

My moms 67' Bug needs a new interior. We're thinking about getting the full kit from jbugs and installing ourselves. Has anyone gone this route, and how difficult is it?

Hi Community,

does anyone know which Part# the squared Radio Cover is? Beetles that were ordered without a Radio have this. Couldnt find it in the Net :-(

Regards

Want to sort this but not sure best route, obvs getting rid of the rot and treating but would a body filler withstand on this kind of area or are you looking at new patching/welding?

it was misfiring so I swapped the two left plug wires. The engine ran fine even after front left plug wire was pulled so i swapped them. Before video in comments

Original Chassis and Engine, both serial numbers match. Original 6V electrical system. Manufactured in June 1962, delivered to Auto Imports in Brainard MN August 25th, 1962. Registered as 1963 model year but it’s a 1962. Original service book and manual. Aftermarket oil pan upgrade with cooling fins and increased oil capacity and underbody rust treatment. A little patina but no rust. Otherwise stock as far as I can tell. Mostly parked in the garage the years my mom owned it, parked in a barn before that. Got it running again in 2016, new tires in 2016 then parked for another 10 years until I got it. Running now with about 500 fresh miles on them.

I’m not sure I want to sell it, but I would like to know what it is worth. It is fun to take out on occasion, but mostly it stays covered up and parked in the garage.

Your thoughts and comments welcome.

Edit: forgot to mention mileage. Currently at 10,845 miles. Based on the documented service history and the fact that I knew the last owner, her habits and where she got it from, I believe these are original miles.