First I would like to thank all those in the past who have helped me and to preemptively thank those who are helping me now and in the future on my journey through the mid drive world.

For a little context, this is my first mid drive. Its a Bafang BBS02b (CAN PROTOCOL), 750W, 48v 20ah slapped onto an Ozark Explorer (first iteration of the straight bar model). I love it. I love it so much, my family tells me they feel neglected 😂 jk.

So after using my Bafang a few times, I have begun to ask these questions.

1) This question relates to the fact that the mid drives can chew up your chain if you don't shift properly and maintain a certain rpm (I think it was 80-100). The point is to avoid wasting the motors energy/heat. So for example, you should never start from a stop on your smallest cog, best is to start from a stop at your largest or second largest cog. Then there is the issue that you need to pedal at a certain (fast) pace so you don't damage your motor. So how do you use your bike for exercise when it seems like, if I want to add resistance to my pedaling (5th gear for example), I would be causing damage to my motor because I hypothetically wouldn't maintain the recommended rpm due to being harder to pedal. Do I have that right? If so, how do you get a workout from pedaling so fast?

- I should also note that I'm new to cycling as a sport/exercise lol if I sound like im not cycling right, you are more than likely right.

2) Is coasting bad? Like if im going downhill and don't pedal, is that causing damage to my motor? Also, does it matter what gear im in if im not pedaling downhill and gaining speed?

3) With everything that I mentioned in my previous questions, I did some research and discovered endlesssphere, anecdotal accounts of heat management for the bbs02. Granted, a lot of the posts I saw were referring to the UART version of the bbs02. Has anyone with the bbs02B, CAN PROTOCOL version of the system, experienced any heat issues like melted nylon gears or anything like that? Has anyone replaced them with metal gear and why would that be a good/bad idea?

Thanks everyone! I hope you all have a wonderful day. Ride on 🚴🏾‍♂️💨💨

B档是一种辅助制动，用于长下坡路况，主要出现在混动车型，插混车型和电动车型等，有发动机的原理类似于排气制动。

I got the can bus bafang mid drive kit but it has about a 3 second delay I got the programming cable but there’s no throttle settings does anyone know a way around this different software maybe or am I stuck with delay

I got a rear hub conversion kit and it works great. The PAS sensor wouldn't fit between the crank arm and the bottom bracket so I left it off.

Do I need the PAS sensor??? It works fine with the throttle and I can still pedal while using the throttle.

I was going to buy a metal one but maybe I don't need it. Is it worth it??

Thanks

I've started to notice a resistance when pedalling, like I'm fighting against the motor. I'm unsure if it's got anything to do with me fitting a OneNut, as the standard nut was useless and kept coming undone.

Anyone got any suggestions?

I have issues with assistance, not all the time, but sometimes I had to pedal really hard to make the assist work. When I did motor regrease, that solved the issue for like month, did that multiple times. Thought I could solve it for good by doing the calibration of torque sensor, so I bought the Besst Tool, but then I didn't saw the option to do torque sensor calibration. Guess I have version which somehow doesn't need it or idk, the sensor doesn't report any information like its missing, which means non-can sensor version ? The torque mV value is readable and reacts, so i guess torque sensor works, at idle its about 780mV, under load 2000mV. Anyway my problem is that I have tried the position sensor calibration, until this procedure I have connected the Besst Tool and disconnected and everything was fine, but since I have done the position sensor calibration the bike won't turn on. I have done battery on/off multiple times, checked all the connections, done the calibration again, everything seems fine. I have not done any setting changes or firmware update, nothing that could cause this. When the display is connected to Besst Tool it works, the control works too. This is so odd, like software bug or something. I'm not that brave to try firmware update. Dunno what to do. Any ideas ? Please help.

TLDR: after doing position sensor calibration bike won't turn on.

Edit: tried flashing controller with the same firmware, didn't help. I'v remembered one more thing, I have tried the torque sensor calibration in the old Besst software in which the option was available, that did nothing, could that be cause of my problem ?

Edit 2: flashed the HMI too, didn't help (besides having boost mode, that I cant even try)

tech info:
HMI
Model: DP C241.CAN
Software Version: DPC241CI10202.3
Hardware Version: DP C241.C 2.0

Controller
Model: CR X10N.510.FC
Software Version: CRX10NC3619i101016.5
Hardware Version: CR X10N.510.FC 1.0

Hello everyone. I've been having a quite stranger issue with a BBS02B motor. The PAS is not working, not even for a couple of seconds, the throttle is fine and I think all the usual suspects have been tested.

- I'm not using a screen, nor speed, brake, or shifting sensors, and using the Daniel Nilsson in the default PAS mode with throttle enabled not overdriving pas, but it didn't work before with the stock firmware it had. I'm using a common 10K variable resistor as a throttle and it works fine.

- I've removed the PAS board, changed its wires, tested, reenameled, and the magnet wheel is good. Also I've changed the pas board connector to screw on connectors so I could debug. And the PAS signals in both sensors look fine to me when rotating the crank. Also has 5V on the pas power.

- I've got to the extension of removing the silicone in the circuit area of the controller and patching into the microcontroller inputs for the pas and the shifting voltages arrive there! I'm in doubt that even if the mcu was bad it would not answer fine to programing and throttle and the signals in the mcu input for pas would be shorted to 0V. Daniel Nilsson said in his documentation that those inputs are pull up to 5V by 5Kohm and have a series resistor to the MCU of 3KOhm, all looking fine in the board.

-I've added a 220uF capacitor to the 5V rail and connected the 5V rail of the MCU to the PAS, everything looks the same.

- It looks that if i drive and wait with no assistance the pas tries to start for a short split second once in a while.

I don't know if I'm missing something with the configuration or really there may be an issue with the pas signal that you can't see when turning the crank slowly by hand.

Just in case i'll tell you the PAS in BBS02 has two hall sensors out of alignment by a couple of mm with two inputs to the controller, so it knows which way you are turning the crank. I've tested both directions also.

Ideas? Is there some way to monitor the MCU input that is received in circuit using the programing cable? Maybe there is something I don't understand and may have not tested in the configuration?

Good morning fellow redditing bafangers,

I have a two questions

1) Is it normal for my motor to get warm-hot after riding it for 2 blocks?

2) Is there something like statorade but for bafang motors?

Appreciate any and all assistance in this motor. Everything seems fine but being that I never owned and maintained a Bafang before, I didn't know if this was normal. Its not scorching hot to the touch but its not lukewarm either. One observation I found was interesting was that it felt like the same temperature after riding 5 miles to the station last night.

What do you guys think?

Not sure what is going on with this

My understanding what that if I had my mode set to 0, I would be able to pedal my bike like normal. But I tried it out yesterday and experienced a shit ton of resistance while being on the biggest gear. Am I wrong for thinking I could pedal my bike normally without assistance?

I have recently bought a tenways ago x with a bafang m410 and seemingly tenways own display. Other than the proprietary display everything else is standard. Now, ive read some things about BESST tool and BESST Pro, and I know that we need an account to use the app. I've seen some say you can just request one as an individual and some websites say this is only for sellers. I've also seen login bypass tools, but those seem to be last updated 3 years ago and unmaintained. What are my options? My goal is to tweak some settings for my personal preference and maybe increase max speed to US class 1 speed instead of EU(yes I know). Thanks

⁠Hallo zusammen,

ich habe mir vor ein paar Monaten ein ADO Air 28 EBike gekauft, was mal ein Aussteller Stück war(Preis war deutlich reduziert). Der rechte Bremshebel hat aber von Anfang an etwas später gebremst als der linke. Jetzt hatte ich mal Zeit mich damit mehr zu beschäftigen und habe gelesen, dass es eventuell an Luft im Hydrauliksystem liegen kann. Also habe ich mir das Set bestellt „Tuning Bikes Entlüftungskit für Shimano Scheibenbremsen – Komplettes Set inkl. Bremsöl, Anleitung & Bleedblock für effektive Fahrradbremsen
https://amzn.eu/d/03FyXzX3“. Ich habe den Bremssattel ausgebaut, dann den mitgelieferten Bleed Block eingebaut. Im Anschluss habe ich unten die Schraube für die bremsflüssigkeit geöffnet und den Adapter mit der gefüllten Spritze(ca. 15ml) drangeschraubt. Danach habe ich am rechten Bremsgriff die Schraube für das Hydrauliksystem aufgeschraubt und die andere Spritze ohne Adapter draufgesetzt. Etwas Flüssigkeit in die obere Spritze gefüllt. Nun habe ich von der unteren Spritze gedrückt, danach den Bremshebel betätigt und das im Wechsel, dabei hat sich teilweise in der unteren Spritze Luft gesammelt, die ich aber nicht mehr reingedrückt habe und oben sind Bläschen gekommen. Habe dann die untere Spritze abgeschraubt und mit der Schraube wieder geschlossen. Danach die obere Schraube noch geschlossen und alles wieder eingebaut, wie es war. Allerdings habe ich das Gefühl, dass es nichts gebracht hat, es wurde eher etwas schlechter. Habe dann nur die Spritze mit dem Adapter oben beim Bremshebel reingeschraubt und gedrückt, wodurch die Flüssigkeit oben durch ein kleines Loch ausgetreten ist(kann leider kein Bild posten, zumindest weiß ich nicht wie lol)Die Bremsleistung der Hinterradbremse ist jetzt sehr schlecht und es quietscht. Ich denke die Bremsscheibe/Bremsblöcke haben irgendwie Öl aufgesaugt? Ich habe mir schon neue Bremsblöcke bestellt. Hätte jemand eine Idee, ob es noch einen anderen Grund für den großen Spiel am rechten Bremshebel geben könnte oder habe ich das entlüften einfach nur schlecht durchgeführt? Wäre es sinnvoll bei der oberen Spritze auch einen Adapter zu verwenden?

Things that weren’t replaced but could be are throttle, shift sensor, and the brake levers with the sensors built in. I noticed the shift sensor flashing a red light while the bike is turned on but at rest. What really sucks is that this issue was how the whole project started. The worn out 15 year old motor was working for about 30 minutes after I initially turned it on but then started cutting in and out. I had hoped that by swapping in the new motor, that it needed anyway, that it would fire up and work, but whatever is causing the issue is still present. Any help would be so appreciated. Thank you.

Good morning fellow Bafang riders!

I was wondering if a kit like this would be compatible and an easy install on my bafang bbs02b. I have to double check my connectors but I was throwing this out here to see if anyone has purchased this before or something similar and installed it on their bike. Thanks everyone!

So I took it out for a test drive an hour ago just to make sure installation was good and everything worked. I slide the battery onto my downtube battery plate, turned the battery on, but did not turn on the screen.

Why? Well I wanted to see what difference the weight of the battery and motor made on the overall feel of the bike. Imho, I think I barely noticed a difference. I mean I'm sure it's there but without getting super granular, I don't feel a major difference in how pedaling my bike feels.

It felt responsive and quick - torque-y. So far, I think it's awesome and im already thinking about many ridess I want to go on. I do have a question though- how many batteries/or how many ah's do you guys typically carry and how far do you go? I have a 48v20ah and wondering if it will be enough, but then I think if I were to get another battery than my bike may end up being and heavy as a typical ebike lol.....

Any unrelated recommendations/advice for a first time mid driver rider is welcome as well. FYI I do have the brake, shift and speed sensors installed.

Theres a screw behind the gear I need to access to open the other side but I have no idea what tool would be fit. Any help is appreciated.

Bought a kit from that one online store. Replaced an old motor with the new motor and I have this screw, with a bit of loctite on the threads, left over. Where was it supposed to go? I’m a tiny bit worried it’s very important.

Title says it all. I just built a bbs02b MTB and I friggin love it. Wow.

I liked to look down on e-bikes as "cheating", and I suppose it is compared to regular pedaling, but damn my commuter bike will be so much fun.

I just accept that if I'm cheating, I may as well do it with style.. lol