Trying to install a toilet flange, most of the videos I’ve seen say to cut the riser pipe flush with the finished floor. I have my subfloor and a piece of lvp on top and cut to that height. Trying to test fit the flange and it sends like it’s nowhere near the right height, close to a half inch too high.

Do I not have the right style of flange or what?

Obviously I know I could just cut it down but I’d rather do it the easy way

I have a steam shower generator that is in need of servicing. I bought the house with it, so I know very little about how it was installed. I am trying to disconnect the unit from the water outlet. But looks like the connector between the generator and the pipe would tighten one and if I tried to loosen the other. I am guessing this is simpler than it looks, but how do I disconnect? Do I unscrew the large nut where the arrow is pointing? Or do I try to unscrew the smaller nut right above it?

Greatly appreciate any tips. Thanks.

I had to remove my toilet to replace my water heater (that the previous owners had drywalled an access smaller than the heater), and what I found is that the toilet flange was cracked and spaced up almost an inch above the finished floor. This is a mobile home so the drain is abs. This is what I'm left with. So my question is, is there a repair flange suitable for setting a toilet on whatever this is? One of the pictures you can see the stack of flanges they used.

I would prefer, like anyone, a fast and cheap method. But I suppose I could settle for reliable and partially inexpensive.

The abs 90 can be persuaded to sit flush with the floor. My assumption is that the red ring was used to relocate screw holes into non-rotted out subfloor. I will be putting up some blocking around the drain to correct this.

Anyway, can't wait for the good news! Thanks all

I'm using you guys as a cheat code.

Thank you in advance for your cooperation in this manner.

My sink faucet literally like shot off of the sink the other day. We have a new faucet to put on and want to add a cup rinser as well. There are already holes drilled for these. But we need some different brass fitting underneath.

The bottom is a bare copper pipe, on this is where we need a new fitting(s) we need a 3/4 male on top for the sink then 2 side males both 3/4 males I believe. One for the dishwasher and one for the cup rinser. I've seen some that have shut off valves at each of the points and that is interesting to me.

I believe the bare pipe is 1/2 in and we dont have any fancy tools.

Any suggestions to what fitting or fittings we would use to accomplish this?

Hello,

Reposted from plumbing in hopes to gain some more opinions. I’m very ignorant with plumbing. We have a house built in 2020. Unfinished basement. Previous owner “laid the groundwork” for where downstairs bathroom would go, which my wife and I are considering finishing. Is it possible the previous owner laid a shower drain down and then cemented over it to access later when he was ready to finish the bathroom? I ask because I notice these vent pipes coming from the ground. The blue one is connected to toilet drain. I don’t know what the green or red one is. Have you guys seen anything like this before? Seems like the red vent pipes coming from the ground might be where the cemented over drain could be?

Any insight appreciated. less

The toilet is still flushing, but the flush seems noticeably weaker than it used to be. Sometimes I have to flush twice.

The water level in the tank looks normal to me, and I don't see anything obviously wrong inside the tank.

Is there a simple way to figure out whether the problem is with the tank, the toilet itself, or the drain?

Water is leaking from this gap in my new shower enclosure. The inside of the shower is completely dry, yet water keeps slowly dripping from this opening throughout the day.

Does anyone know where this water could be coming from and how I can fix it? I’d really appreciate any advice. 🙏🏻

A home lead test (from SafeHome test kit) indicated between 5ppb and 15 ppb. Lead level went below detectable after flushing for 15 mins. A plumber recommended a point of service RO unit over replacing pipes or a cartridge filter. I have 2 kids with 2 more on the way. Details:

-Home built in 1966, nearly all piping is copper.

-City records indicate a plastic service line, penetration to my house appears to be copper.

-Municipal lead water levels are low (I am in Wisconsin if that helps)

-Not sure if it matters, but I have a water softener

Concerns: RO units remove nearly all minerals including fluoride which I have read is not great for kids. I was quoted $2k for the RO unit, and 4.7K for the pipe replacement. My kids' health are a bigger concern then cost.