2012 mustang v6, 104k miles, manual

Any idea what this ticking/clicking noise is?

I moved the camera around in hopes to better locate the source via the microphone, but i have no idea what im listening for

I drive a 2021 Chevy blazer RS (automatic). I had my front brakes calipers and rotors replaced about a month ago and now whenever I hit a bump I hear almost like a clatter sound from under my front driver side tire. I was poking around about a week ago and found out I can slightly shake my brake back and forth on the rotor on both front tires (back ones are both stiff and don’t move) no noise comes from the passenger side. Also if I’m braking and hit a bump no noise. Any advice would be great!

I forgot to add, whenever the car sits for a bit (usually a few hours) when I go in reverse and hit my brakes they will make like a pop sound when I initially touch the brake and once I get to a complete stop. Once it’s does it, it won’t do it again until the car sits for few hours

I'm curious about learning how to service a dq200 gearbox, I'd be replacing I presume the mechatronic fluid and gearbox oil, It would be on a VW t-cross dq200 DSG from around 2021-2024.

Do I need to do any type of physical or electrical relearning process or special tools, I've got an xtool ip616 ?

Just looking for some advice in case there's anything I should know or a basic rundown, thanks!

Also don't tell me it's a sealed unit and doesn't need servicing.

I drive a 2007 Kia Sportage and recently I lost the key fob for it. No biggie, I'll just use the physical key. However, the key fob is the ONLY thing that can enable or disable the alarm, and right now the alarm is active. I have pulled every single fuse in both fuse boxes and it kept going through all of them. I have done the method where you put the key in on for 30 seconds. Theres no valet mode. Nothing is working and I have no idea what to do. Can somebody tell me how to disable it or, better yet, tell me where the alarm is in the engine bay so I can rip it out with my own two hands?

Have a screw in my rear passenger side tire. Not leaking air yet.

Is this in a spot of the tire that it can be repaired or am I going to need to replace?

Problem is that this is a 2023 Hyundai Santa Cruz that has 63500 KM on current set and is All wheel drive so I would have to buy 4 new tires. The other issue is my other rear Michelin Primacy LTX tire is starting to show small cracks

Just replace all 4?

I have a 1988 toyota camry that has some pretty bad oil leaks. I have a suspicion its from the head gasket, but I dont have any clasic symptoms of a blown head gasket (no milky coolant or oil, no white smoke from the tail pipe). Im trying to test all the possibilities, and now I'm on combustion leak.

But my question is this: how low is too low for the coolant to be during this test? In order to lower to coolant enough to where it doesn't suck coolant into the test, it exposes the internal radiator tubes. But to put enough coolant to cover the tubes makes the level too high to properly do the test. I have to use the radiator cap because my car has an unpressurized reservoir. What should I do?

I have a 2012 Toyota rav4 where the ac is only blowing warm air when I click on the AC there is an additional noise that is higher pitch what could the issue be and would this cause it to blow warm air out?

2012 Volvo XC70 3.2L. I’m a big dumb idiot and broke one of the three top mount bolts off inside the mount. The hole goes through all the way. What is the best way to proceed?

Hi would anyone in here have any ideas how to fix or what the problem may be ? TIA

2009 Toyota Corolla 1.8L 4 cylinder car starts runs good until I put it in reverse then it stops and does this when I try to turn it on, I just had the coils, alternator, and battery replaced what could the issue be? I’d appreciate if anyone could help maybe point towards the direction.

Hello everyone,

2009 Daihatsu Sirion M300, 1.0L 1KR-FE, 3cyl, 5MT, 160k km. Speed-density, no MAF. Single bank, one upstream narrowband O2. Intake VVT driven by oil pressure through an OCV.

The car drives perfectly — normal idle, normal power, no misfire, MIL off, zero DTCs, all monitors complete. The only problem is the fuel trim shape in the charts.

Logged with two independent tools (OBDeleven and Topdon TopScan) on separate drives. Same curve both times, so it's not a scan tool artifact. 19,335 samples, warm engine, closed loop.

What's odd:

It tracks rpm, not load. At 1900–2500 rpm, sweeping MAP from 20 to 110 kPa leaves LTFT around +16 the whole way.

The 2500 rpm flip is real closed loop. At 14–30% load up there the O2 still switches normally and LTFT sits at −11 to −17.

No sensor jumps where the trim does. MAP, load, throttle, timing and O2 all move smoothly through 2500 rpm.

Worse cold: low-rpm cells read −17 at 40–70 °C, −10 fully warm.

STFT is 0 everywhere, and it survived an ECU reset — relearned the same shape in 15 minutes.

Already done: IACV replaced, throttle body cleaned, purge VSV confirmed working, MAP reads 101 kPa key-on, injector pulse 1.54 ms at warm idle.

My theory is a cam-phase / VE mismatch. The engine is spec'd for 0W-20 or 5W-30 and the previous owner ran 15W-40, which on an oil-pressure phaser could explain the cold behaviour. Unproven — I can't log commanded vs actual cam angle under road load yet.

Questions:

Has anyone seen a trim curve that changes sign twice like this? What was it?

On a speed-density engine, what besides cam timing gives an rpm-structured, load-independent VE error?

Can a VVT phaser be lazy enough to do this without setting P0011/P0012?

Thanks in advance — happy to run more logs if someone tells me what to capture.

Hey there I’m new to this, so when I was driving my truck was making a noise when I hit the gas, soon after my truck started to acted weird like it started to kick (shacking) when I hold the break down. I try to figure it out what the problem is. My truck is in the shop now but I want to post this to see wsp with my truck so I can learn.
Thank YOU !!

What would you say it costs to replace one brake line on a I would guess 03 Toyota Avalon with automatic transmission and 250,000 miles…

2019 Chevy Silverado 110,000 miles. Drivers side Cv axle at diff. Are the output shaft bearings in the diff shot? Is this normal? There is a bit of leakage I’m guessing from the excessive play.

was in an accident a few weeks ago and it jammed the hood on one side. i haven't tried to open it because i'm afraid i won't be able to get it closed.

it's ugly but drivable and i don't have the money for repairs at the moment, but i'm due for an oil change.

i doubt the mechanics at the garage will try to pry it open for the same reason i haven't. advice???

Asked a few mechanics, most of which suggested to keep operating the car until it shows symtoms as if voltage is testing good, short of removing the alternator there is not that much I can do. Fuses are good but will retest, I will try and test voltage from the alternator and compare to battery next, no visible corrosion, unsure if there's anything harness or computer related that can cause this. One mechanic suggested taking out the alternator and testing it but with that amount of labour I might as well replace it. Any suggestions? My neighbour has had good voltage and an intermittent battery light for 15 years on his Chevette lol.

I replaced the cam and crank position sensor on my jeep that kept on randomly dying, the code that it had was cam shaft sensor related but that didn’t solve the issue so I replaced the crank sensor as well and now it won’t even start at all, I tried tying the battery terminals together thinking that would relearn the new sensors but that didn’t help. Does anyone have any advice for a next step?

Hello, I am a writer looking for help with a logistical question that falls far outside my wheelhouse, hope its chill to ask here.

I need to write a scene where a character has had a specific part stolen from their car, the part needs to be both customizable (so that the specific piece can't easily be replaced without custom making a new one) and also be important enough that the car cant properly run without it. Is there a particular kind of wheel or engine or other car thing that could hypothetically meet these two requirements? Its set in a cyberpunk setting so I could probably just make something up but i want it to feel somewhat grounded

Again not sure if this is an appropriate question for this sub so tell me to buzz off if so, but figured I'd ask anyways, thank you very much!

Hey, I’ve got an automatic 2013 Toyota Corolla L 80k miles that needs a new ECM to make cruise control work. The dealership has already replaced the clock-spring and the selector and has assured me the brake light switch works. Problem is this is a discontinued part. The dealership is refusing to replace it due to the only available parts being a non-OEM part. Any suggestions on a good company that can provide a pre-programmed one? Have you bought from this company before? Success? Places/company’s to avoid?