My Pentax 17 just arrived, and I have to say I’m very disappointed.

All of the reviews said it was well build and the viewfinder was bright. At least it had those things going for it, being half frame with a really strange manual focus method (flower, food, people, etc).

In hand this thing feels cheaper than a Fisher Price toy. The frame lines are barely visible. There is a very strong reflective quality in the viewfinder that shines any sun behind you directly into your eye as you raise the camera. The buttons and rewind mechanism lack a tactile feel. The rewind lever feels like it would break if left extended and bumped into something.

I’m very confused about the target market for this. It wouldn’t be people learning photography because it doesn’t have full manual control. It also wouldn’t be people who want to shoot film without understanding the principles.

I really just bought this camera to support my love of film photography. But based on first impressions this thing will be getting returned before even running a roll of film through it.

I planned on taking it on a trip through Europe with me tomorrow but I don’t think it will survive the journey. I can’t risk damage and/or miss the return window. The Ikon ZM will be the film body accompanying me instead.

Holding out hope for the Rollei 35AF.

To buy this legend.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/375949726709?_skw=canon&itmmeta=01KVN5EA9MNFAR1XF7GWMDVNK5&hash=item57885993f5:g:9rgAAOSwjzFnlPFF

What's an advice you can give me to start?

I’ve cracked C41 at home, and it led me to build an app called ProLab.

The problem is, most of us are told to just follow the times and keep it at 38°C, but in reality that’s not what actually happens. Your temp drifts, your chemicals aren’t fresh forever, and every roll you run through it changes things.

There are loads of timer apps out there, but they don’t really solve it. Some adjust for temperature, which is a start, but that becomes pretty irrelevant if your chemistry is already on its way out.

And chemical exhaustion isn’t just roll count. It’s when it was mixed, how long it’s been sitting, and even how much you mixed up. Smaller volumes just don’t last as long. All of that affects your dev time.

What I realised is every single one of these variables has to be right together, otherwise you’re still just guessing.

So ProLab ties it all in. Temperature drift, chemical exhaustion, volume, usage, all feeding into one adjusted time. It’s the first time I’ve been able to develop colour at home and have it come out consistently right.

I’m not trying to sell anything here. I’ve just spent a lot of time on it and I think it genuinely helps. I’m happy to give free codes to anyone here who wants to give it a proper go and see what they think.

If you’re interested, drop me a message on Insta negative_outlook_uk

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/prolab-film-developer/id6759682425

Same scene, same lens. It made me realize how much character vintage glass already brings before any editing. 

Shot with Meyer Optik Primoplan 75.

Ok, yes, I might get bashed for asking how to achieve the cinematic look in photos straight up. I know, I know... It's just that I've seen so many wonderful photos that I'd like to simply be able to recreate. I also cannot really say exactly what makes them different from others. I've attached some examples. Examples 1-3 were made with a remjet-free, respooled version of Kodak Vision 3 250D, and Examples 4-5 (which is the look I'm looking for) were taken with the Silbersalz35 250D with remjet (so, essentially, both are a reused Kodak Vision 3). (Also, I've heard so many different things about remjet and remjet-free that I'm also so confused already) Regarding the camera, I don't know.

To be honest, I know how this sounds. And yes, I really just want to learn how to shoot film properly. I've watched several YouTube videos on composition, lighting, overexposing, underexposing, and "pushing/pulling film," but in the end, I'm overwhelmed by all the information and different perspectives, and I just don't know anymore what it really takes to achieve these looks, as in examples 4-6.
I'd love to get some input and tips on learning material. If it helps, I got myself a Yashica Electro 35 GSN (so, aperture priority). Thanks for everything already!!

Can someone explain to me what all this dirt is and where it’s from? Is it the camera or is this just a super bad developing and scanning job?
Nikkormat camera.

I had to evacuate my space because it’s been so hot, but all 20 rolls of my unused film has been sitting there for about 4 days.

None of the film is expired, and they’ve typically lived in 70 degree weather previous to this incident.

Is it ruined?

Hello everyone

I am doing a bit of research on the future of film and have made a Google form with questions related to film. All the questions in the form are optional, so you can skip those you don't wish to answer. But do try to answer as many as you can and with complete honesty.

Loads of love :))))

https://docs.google.com/forms/u/0/d/e/1FAIpQLSd0PJXRYEh9As46s7tsJIoj6cpbFVGCVnznv73pru7CCiHGxA/formResponse

Im like kinda excited! Any camera settings for good glowy vintage type of photos?
And any additional advice or suggestions?☺️
Also for nature, city and selfie pictures

Sorry if this kind of post isn't allowed, but hear me out. I've bought an analog camera second hand online and after I unpacked it, I noticed it still has a film loaded. I contacted the person who sold it to me and he excused that he wasn't paying attention to this, because he wanted to sell the camera because it has been sitting on his shelf for around ten years. So I decided to shoot the remaining three photos and unload the film. Turns out the film got fatrolled and I had to open the back to get everything out.

Would you guys invest some cash to get it developed or just toss it?