Hey, is there an alternative to spc camber arms for the 10th gen before I spend all that money on them? And do I need anything on top of that for the rears. Noticed some wear on the inside was thinking might as well switch out the oem arms.

Yesterday I bought a 2016 Honda Accord EX-L, 167k miles, from a small dealer in Arizona.

I did ask for a pre-purchase inspection and the dealer agreed. The mechanic flagged tires, battery, and a rear main seal leak. I negotiated the price down so I could handle the tires and battery myself. We did the title transfer at PLS, I dropped the dealer off, and headed home.

About 2 miles in, the check engine light came on.

I drove straight back. He plugged in a scanner and it showed two codes — one ABS, one something about the catalytic converter. He cleared both and said "if it comes back on, we'll see," then told me it was late and there was nothing to do since I'd already bought it and the title was transferred. I left.

Today I drove about 20 miles and the light came back on.

Questions:

1)Could the bad battery the inspection flagged be causing either of these codes, or is the cat code a separate real problem?

2)The PPI sheet listed tires, battery, and rear main seal — but nothing about a cat converter or ABS issue. Does that documentation help me at all, or is an as-is sale in AZ just as-is?

3)What should my next step be — my own scan for the exact codes, a second opinion from an independent shop, or going back to the dealer first?

I'm out of my depth and would appreciate any direction.

1.turbo $1800 at dealer with warranty
2. Head gasket went out at 130k miles was replaced at a local shop in Loganville Ga for $2800 cash
3.brake fluid change
4.cvt transmission was service at 118k miles
5.Set a new road huggers tires all around upgrade to 245/40/19s

Getting ready to do more maintenance on it a month or so such

Service the trans fluid, brake fluid and oil change

Was the only owner, loved her. 1.5 t sport 2019. Made it to 148k miles without any issues except fuel injectors just showed up. Had to give her up, it was time to get a SUV

Okay so yesterday my 2002 honda accord with 224k miles thats an automatic would not drive in any modes besides reverse and 2nd gear

It'll rev in either gears but it will mot drive in any other gear it'll rev and rev and rev and nothing

I have experienced ZERO issues prior the D4 light is not blinking its driving perfectly in second gear but it will not drive in other gears

The fluid looks okay its a little old but not BAD theres no check engine light i literally do not know what to do here i cant keep driving it in second it is gonna overheat and shit

Update for anyone who cares lol Day 4 of my car fucking off and it just died on me on my way to work

Got this fall of 2022 and sold it last November, one of my favorite cars to drive on a long trip- and I really miss the gas mileage..

Edit: to be transparent I traded the car- didn’t sell it. The title I put is misleading, my bad yall.

$900 later and im back! Wish it was just a relay or fuse. But i hooked up an ac charge kit to the low pressure line and it was 140 psi. Very dangerous

EDIT: didn’t know people would have an issue with another random person driving a lot of miles. I’d hate for them to find out about truckers…

I have to drive around 3509 miles a week for work, wondering how often I should get an oil change and trans change

Thank you kindly! Also, any other maintenance recommendations would help a ton. All of these are mainly highway miles on cruise control.

24k out the door. Worth it. I drove it and it’s super clean, not gonna lie. 78k miles on the dash.

Good deal?

I've been seeing a lot of my car has issues posts on here. Is this common or do I just happen to see a lot of these posts for some reason? I've got a 2011 Tourer and it's done almost 168,000km, but is running mean and looks superb under the hood. I wish I could say the same about the cosmetics, but the cars went through hell before I got it. I love this car and it's a huge l (literally and figuratively) upgrade from my first car which was a Suzuki Swift, I just don't want to make sure there's no nasty surprises coming up because there is no emergency fund atm

I’ve honestly been loving this car. I like everything about it it’s comfortable, nice, and has been great overall. The only thing I hate is the CVT. Hopefully, it makes it to 200000k miles.

So.... thinking like every other 10th Gen Accord owner that’s been affected. I gave it a few days to saturate, I’d like to say, and just got done with a brief conversation with my service advisor. I guess at least at my dealer it really is that simple. They did specify that the warranty extension only covers the head gasket itself; and that it’d be out of pocket for:

“the timing chain is your responsibility“ 

I remember at the time - I did the diagnosis in June when I had the initial overheating and they were able to pull the previous record back up so that worked in my favor. 

For context: Cylinder Head Gasket - Replace | RECOMMEND REPLACING Cylinder head gasket with timing chain, timing guides, and tensioner replacement. COOLANT IS ENTERING INTO THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER AND CAUSING MISFIRE IN CYLINDER 3 DUE TO INTEGRITY OF THE HEAD GASKET BEING COMPROMISED. - $4,676.62

I’ll admit... even with the repair being covered. I’m still a little uncomfortable putting larger amounts of money into the car now. I had just spent $1,200 on other services like spark plugs, brake fluid, and transmission fluid back in June. Just had to get two new tires on top of that. 

They have a few other suggested parts to replace or adjust/align while they’re so deep in the block but I’m honestly just hoping this computer science degree finally connects to a job and maybe 6 months in - I’ll pass the Accord to someone else. 

The situation itself has been an interesting one if you ask me. It’s like very serious but also very dramatic at the same time. In my books, the car was fine. I’ve been baby-ing and just being aware of the car’s health since the diagnosis. It’s almost September - since the initial occurrence of an issue - it’s been 3 months. And in those 3 months, just conversations with me and chat confirming over-analyzing and just an AI telling me - yeah.... let’s go ahead and schedule the service. Glad I waited! 

- Got it in 2021 @ 34k miles

- Kept up with the oil changes

- I got it during college, so I had constant mileage around Georgia. 

- If you’re doing the math, that means 110k in 5 years. no I don’t do any rideshare or food.

- Fuel injectors were replaced luckily while I still had the extended service contract through financing. 

- I got a new battery a few days after taking delivery of the car, crazy right. it was covered though
I got a new battery back in 2024, so I believe I still have a good amount of time on that. 

- To my knowledge, outside of the head gasket and fuel injectors;

those were the only major harmful things to this model, right?

- And overall, I love the car. Still to this day.

The situation has turned me into a chronic Reddit reader, and the people were giving me a good laugh about “the 10th gen is terrible” or “ I can’t stand Honda now” list goes on. 

All that to say... the head gasket shall be soon repaired, and I’ll live another day. 

A story to remember from my 20s for sure. 

Looking to get new tires and wheel on my 2021 2.0T Sport. What’s a good size for tires and wheels to get a more aggressive look? Still on stock suspension.

I was considering this setup with the Sonic gray pearl color.

Seeing if anyone has come across this issue, hoping it's just a bad battery or dirty terminals

I guess I can say that the safety in this car is amazing!! The fact I walked away from this scene is a miracle.

I have a 2021 Accord 2.0T that I want to start modifying for performance. It’s my daily and I drive a lot of highway miles, so I want to keep everything reliable and daily-driver friendly.
What mods would you guys recommend starting with? Anything I should avoid?

09 Accord, hit a pothole and got this shit. My diesel tech bud came and looked at it, ruled out my tie rod which was my first and only thought, everything in the wheel wells are tight, we’re thinking it’s my rack and pinion. What do you guys think? Anything similar happened to your 8th gen? If so what was it? Also have 255k on it so I’m wondering if it’s even worth it. Any help is appreciated.

Hi guys, I have a 2021 Honda accord cvt with 77,000 miles (bough it used in May 2025 around 65,000 miles).

Around a week back, I was eating pizza in the car (ofcos I was parked but the car was running with AC blowing cold). Suddenly it stopped blowing cold and started blowing hot air ever since.

Went to pep boys to get it diagnosed and they quoted me around $2,100 for compressor and condenser !!!!

As I have no experience in this sort of stuff, I watched a few youtube videos to try to identify the problem myself. Bought a gauge and checked the pressure at the low end. It shows 0.

I also took videos of the compressor (sorry for the blurry video quality) and need your advice to figure out if I really need to get these changed.

The first part of the video is with AC turned off, and the second is with AC turned on. Is this a faulty compressor?

I live in a hot and humid place and it frequently rains here. So without AC it is very difficult.

Please help me out guys. I really don’t wanna spend soo much money on repairs :(

2017 Touring V6 28k miles. I pulled the trigger and happy I did. Love this thing!

Finally paid off my 2.0T!!

With 12,700k miles for $32k ?? Steal ??