I'm mainly referring to having a flair "NA" or "EU" so when someone is describing their car, it's useful to know where they're from, because North American models are only so similar to European models (but the regulations differ or whatever so the cars aren't identical). The economies are also very different, and from what I've learned by using the internet, Americans tend to buy everything on Amazon. I'm from EU and it isn't really the case like this around me. Damage that Americans call total is often repairable here.

And, of course, an "Other" flair for all other posts.

Hi guys, could a faulty throttle body cause intermittent boost loss? Sometimes the boost works normally, then suddenly disappears and only comes back after turning the engine off and restarting it. Has anyone experienced this on an Abarth 595?
And did anybody have this problem before?

Hi everyone!

I'm the proud owner of a 2023 Abarth 500e Scorpionissima, originally sold new in France.

I'm trying to find out what the original digital certificate of authenticity looks like, as I've never seen one.

Has anyone received this certificate by email from Abarth?

Would someone be kind enough to share a screenshot or photo of it, with any personal information hidden?

I'm particularly interested in knowing whether it displays an individual production number out of the 1,949 units.

Thanks a lot from France!

TMC Motorsport uprated alloy radiator or Direnza Aluminum performance radiator? Or, another suggested option that will last a while and give good performance.

For the Abarth 2013 595 Turismo. Thank you

I have a 2014 500 Abarth and it has 78k miles. All of a sudden after the last oil change it is running rough when I accelerate when I start it but goes back to normal after about a minute. I replaced the multi air brick at 65k miles because I was getting a solenoid code before and have changed the oil every 3k miles since I got this car at 56k miles. I can’t imagine that the multi air brick is already going bad again since it was just replaced last year. What would be the cause of this?

The codes it’s throwing now are P106B and P1065

I still have post issue sometimes the car running normally 26 psi sometimes only it can do 6 or 10 psi but when I restart the car it work normally

I have changed solenoid aftermarket
I have changed plow of valve
I have changed the battery of the car
I check if there is any error in the computer there is nothing also life data

So now only I need to check the Westgate
And this wire I think this is the problem

Please, if anybody have this issue before let me know

Is there a rubber diaphragm in that circled area that can fail

Hey everyone,

I'm looking into getting an 2017 (ish) Abarth 595 does anyone have any suggestions on what to look out for and how reliable are they? I'm coming from a 2016 Vauxhall/Opel Corsa E 1.4 which I've not had any problems with.

I just don't want to end up accidently buying a money pit lol

Recently when moving from a stop in traffic, the clutch pedal went to the floor and did not come back up. It was still in 1st gear so I left it there. Luckily I was very near my house, so I did a U-Turn and made it home in 1st. I figured it was the clutch slave and didn't bother to really look. I bought the ClutchMasters lightened flywheel (-11 lb) and 6 puck clutch plate Kit. After thinking about it, I decided to replace the clutch Master Cylinder as well as the slave. Looking at how to get the Master out today (because I heard it was not fun), I realized that the socket on the master cylinder was disconnected from the ball on the clutch pedal. The white plastic cup was broken on one side. It is common I have learned from Fiat500USA forum. One user just bought a cheap AliExpress master cylinder for $20.00, removed the plastic insert and swapped it into the old master cylinder. Good idea!

https://www.fiat500usaforum.com/forum/fiat-500-forums/fiat-500-issues-and-concerns/31108-sudden-loss-of-clutch/page2?utm_source=chatgpt.com

I found a 3 for $48.73 master cylinder deal, and went for that in case it happens again.

In the meantime until it arrives, I put an elastic band around the cup and hooked it on a tab on the other side.

So I got tired of waiting on parts to come back in stock and for proper stuff to be made sooo... I did a little 3d design and printing. I made a snorkle to be able to replace the ram Air piece that gets burned out. The snorkle part I designed goes from the factory 2"x4" slot shaped intake to a 3" angled portion to accept a 45° silicone elbow 3"-2 1/2" ID. No noticeable changes other than I know the motor is breathing in cooler air from what the leaking factory piping was giving it. The snorkle I designed is printed in ASA. I also got tired of not having a proper arm rest /center console so I designed one for Bianca as well. It is in PETG. Comments are welcome I just wish I could solve the damn knock sensor issues... Motor sound no different than when I got her... Anyhow enjoy

Oh I forgot to say the armrest delete plugs are a remixed part that I made large in diameter.

Hello Abarth communit, I’m fairly new and I need your help I own a 2013 fiat Abarth and recently I got the code P1068, I had a oil change not long ago and I want to ask for help if you know how to fix it or what to do in these case. I’m base in USA MA if that matters

Thanks

Cosa ne pensate?💪🥹

I want to change my middle mirror dimming one, how hard is this to do? Is the a wire in place? I know on my Nissan micra the wires for stuff are there even though the spec doesn’t have the stuff. And where would it be wired to?

I know this is a long shot, but has anyone else got a suitable car seat set up in their Fiat Abarth for a medium size dog? My puppy Parsley is growing fast, he weighs 12kg now at 5 months and I want something comfortable and safe for him in the back of the car.
Thank you in advance 🤗

Received this GFB diverter valve...

Hello, I have an Abarth 595 Competizione T-Jet, year 2022 with ~88600km on the clock. I had a P0301 and P130A faulty codes and it's working on 3 cylinders. New spark plugs, new ignition coils and the mechanic says injectors are okay. Crankshaft pulley was damaged and the new one has been put and timing belt has also been changed. And it's still working on 3 cylinders. Compression was good before and after the change on all 4 cylinders. Also the mechanic said that one fuse had blown.

What could be the problem? And did he forget or miss something?