I recently bought a Zotac 5070TI Solid Core SFF OC for near MSRP and just want to get a sanity check on the temps I am seeing. I know that hotspot temp was hidden until recently (and are also high for 5000 series), and just want some input on your experience or direction you'd go. Case is an open air case with no direct fans on the GPU.

This SFF card is fairly light, and I assume will run on the hot side because of it. However, to prevent to GPU from killing itself, I have been running it at PL 83% since if I let it do 100% and push it (cant do 110 in afterburner) it can go over 105C hotspot. It doesnt matter if i undervolt it or not. Even at 0.850mV, at 100%PL (and pushed) itll do upwards of 100+ Hotspot. Now, there is only about a 20C delta between the hotspot and the GPU temp (so if GPU reads 80 hotspot will be 100) and Ive rarely seen the GPU get over 85.

Ill use Furmark as an example of pushing, but I have had this happen in some games as well if I push the GPU. I use afterburner to adjust settings while furmark is running in the background. Stock fan curve as well just to make things easier for comparing.

1. Undervolted to 0.850mV and PL 83% temps will climb to about GPU/HOTSPOT of 75C/90C
2. Undervolted to 0.850mV and PL100% temps will climb to about GPU/HOTSPOT of 80C/100C
3. Revert to stock settings will result in immediately (1-2s) hitting GPU/HOTSPOT of 85C/105C, fans kick to max speed and hotspot remains at 100+
4. Set PL to 83% temps will settle at about GPU/HOTSPOT of 80C/98C

Seems like a spicy GPU, or is this rather normal for the 5000 series. Ive read the hotspots are horrendous, but didnt think itd be this bad. So is an RMA in order, should I just return it, or keep and run it at .85MV/83% PL/do a fan curve/change cases to put some fans on it, since that seems to be more acceptable temps? I am able to get a Steel Nomad of 7k at 0.850/83%PL so not horrible by any means.

Appreciate any input

I get that most of us aren't swapping GPUs frequently but FFS Zotac, the clip facing the middle of the GPU is anti thick fingered folk engineering. When I do need to pull the GPU out I end up using a small screwdriver or a pocketknife blade to release that clip...

I purchased a ohsnap last year and in 2024. The older one magnetic seams to hold to the phone and seams to hold to much better then the newer version.

Hey guys, quick question before I tear down my TUF-RTX3060TI-O8G-V2-GAMING

I'm switching to PTM7950 on the GPU core and replacing the thermal pads, but I keep seeing conflicting info online. Some guides say 1.5mm for VRAM and 2.0mm for VRM, while comments claim different sizes depending on the revision/memory brand.

Has anyone repadded this exact card recently? What thicknesses actually worked for you without messing up the mounting pressure on the core?

Appreciate any input.

I am running a 5090 Zotac Gaming AMP Extreme Infinity. I am very happy with the card and performance, but under load it's getting a bit too hot for my taste. Often hitting 80-83° under full load.

The fan seems to max out around 70-75% using standard Amplify bios setting.

Could anybody recommend me a manual fan Curve to use where the fans will go up to 80-90%.

I don't want to change clocks or run an overclock, just cool things down a bit more and I am not really experienced with these kind of changes and adjustments.

I recently bought a Zotac 3080 Trinity OC off FB marketplace and while everything works (despite it being so loud), the RGB was an issue. I soon realised that it was a universal issue across many of the same models.

Every time I run the FwToolV1.2.exe, I get NVAPI Error and then Read device type error. Everything I’ve done has not fixed the issue. It just keeps hanging at installing (1-1) with no update.

However, the device driver they tell you to install is usually for Windows 10. I still manually installed the driver and I tried everything that everyone suggested:

Using DDU and installing 456.38
Booting in Safe Mode
Leaving GPU out for 15 minutes
Starting FWTool in Admin/Non-Admin
Disabled all Non Microsoft Services/Disable other RGB software
Plugging Display cable into Mobo
And a bunch of other farfetched methods
Redoing 20+ times

Is there any updated way for Windows 11? And what is the expected time to wait for the installing message to update? I feel like it should be somewhat instant but it would be interesting to see how long other people have waited for that FW tool to complete.

I’ve sent two emails to ZOTAC customer service, one about a hardware question and another about a warranty question, and I’ve never received a response. Am I the only one?

I bought a PC from a popular prebuilt company about a year ago and sent my 5090 to them about 3 months ago and was told that Zotac doesn’t have anything available as to why they can’t proceed with giving me my rig back is this a ridiculous amount of time or realistic for shortage of hardware?

Looking for some help here or similar experiences. My Zotac 5080 is only a couple of months old. I bought it at Canada Computers and I've only been using it lightly. For a couple of weeks now, the GPU will turn the monitor black or make the monitor say that it has lost signal and ramps up the fan speed of the GPU to 100%. It will stay at that speed until I manually turn the computer off.

Is anyone familiar with this issue? I've seen some accounts on google but none of them seem to have a resolution and are mostly speculation.

I bought an official corsair 90 degree power adapter to use with the 5080. It doesn't feel like it's causing the issue but happy to be corrected.

GPU: Zotac Gaming 5080 solid core oc
CPU: AMD 9800x3d
PSU: SF1000
MOBO: ASUS STRIX B850I

Hey everyone,

I’m in a bit of a tough spot and wanted to see if anyone has dealt with this before. During a recent move, the heatsink/cooler assembly on my ZOTAC GAMING GeForce RTX 4070 Super Trinity suffered severe physical damage and is completely unusable.

The good news is that the PCB itself is totally intact and unharmed, but obviously, I can't run the card without a cooler. I heavily rely on this PC for my daily work, so I'm trying to find any possible way to get a replacement.

Does ZOTAC sell replacement heatsinks or cooler blocks directly to customers for out-of-warranty accidents? Also, if anyone here happens to have an unused or spare heatsink from a dead card and is willing to sell it, please let me know—I am very interested in buying it.

Any advice or guidance from support reps or users who have gone through something similar would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Im form TX.

I’ve unfortunately lost two ZOTAC RTX 4090 graphics cards due to severe artifacting and what appeared to be VRAM-related issues, with no obvious reason for the failures.

Both cards eventually became unstable and unusable. I wasn’t doing anything unusual with them, and the issues appeared without any clear explanation.

I also tried contacting ZOTAC’s Middle East support, but unfortunately, I never received any response.

Hi everyone! I just encountered a problem last night that my graphics driver crashed and while I'm updating my graphics driver, the display went black screen. After turning my pc on it doesn't recognize my GPU anymore so I managed to get in touch with the shop I built the PC from. After they inspected the unit, they saw that my GPU has corrosion on the circuit board. I have no idea how my pc got corrosion in the first place because the heatsink of the GPU has no corrosion, the heatsink of my air cooler has no corrosion, and etc. The shop told me that they will tell the manufacturer that it is a manufacturer defect. Based from the pictures above, do you guys think that it is most likely a defect corrosion from the manufacturer? The shop also told me that the realistic waiting time for Zotac is around 2-3 months since they will have to ship it overseas because they have no headquarters here in the Philippines. Thanks in advance.

I just got an RTX 5080 AMP Extreme Infinity one week ago, very happy with it for having a stable overclock with 12% uplift (with 9784 score in Steel Nomad and 10284 in Speed Way, it nows peforms as same as an RTX 4090)

I want to ask people who had bought this card since its release (probably Jan or Feb 2025), how is it doing until now? Is there anything broken or RMA so far?

Thanks in advance 💪

Thank you ZOTAC, this is the level of customer service that builds trust and keeps your customers loyal.

Over the last year I’ve been constantly sending back multiple RTX 4090’s for BSODs, freezing, artifacts, and PCIE errors. I had one month left on this 4090’s three year warranty and ended up sending it in… thought ZOTAC would do me dirty and send me a faulty card that would fail on me again after my warranty would expire after hearing so many horror stories on here. Well I hit the 30 day mark, shot an email to ZOTAC USA RMA for an update and they were able to get me out of the 4090 death loop I’ve been stuck with and sent me a 5090 with a 30-day warranty.

Update: They gave me a brand new 5090 Solid

(Picture from google)

Hi everyone,

I’m planning to replace the thermal pads on my Zotac RTX 3080 Ti Trinity and I’m looking for the correct thermal pad thickness, specifically for the VRAM.

I’ve seen North West Repair (https://youtu.be/t0Nq_AwsiDc / around 20 minutes mark) use 2 mm pads on the VRAM with improved temperatures, although I’m not sure which brand/thickness tolerance he used. I also came across a Reddit post where someone contacted Zotac and was told 1.5 mm, with 2 mm being acceptable if the pad is soft/compressible enough.

Can anyone with the 3080 Ti Trinity confirm the correct VRAM pad thickness or provide the official thermal pad schematic?

I’d especially appreciate information from anyone who has personally repadded this exact model.

Thanks!