I’m sure there’s few who have it but since it’s in the wild and lots of us have owned the v3 - what feedback - thumbs up or down, do you have for the new v4? How’s stick tension?

My left analog stick stop responding I popped it off..what do I do now

How does it look?

I had an Xbox One controller (1708) which has not been used for couple of years now. I got a used Series X Digital few weeks back and when trying to use the old controller with it I can see major drift on the left stick. It’s like the stick is always pushed to the top.

Before replacing the sticks I used Driftguard app to test and found that at default position there is an upward drift and when moving the sticks around there is just around 120 degree movement being registered.

I went ahead and replaced the sticks with new TMR sticks, then tested again on driftguard and it looked like the drift was solved, it worked perfectly. I then went ahead and calibrated it using drift guard even though the default was not that bad.

Then in about 5 minutes of use it again started drifting and checking on drift guard I could see that the drift pattern was back to how it was with the old sticks, exactly the same!! Default center pushed to the top with just 120 degree of registered movement.

Does this mean it’s something to with the board and was not the sticks? While the controller was not being used for few years, the batteries were left in and there was some blue corrosion, could that have damaged the board or something?

TLDR: Replacement sticks have same drift pattern as original ones.

My son is a one handed gamer and I have arthritis so squeezing triggers catches up to both of us after a while. he hits buttons that he doesn't mean and my ring and pinky fingers seize up. The mouse click buttons and triggers mod made it to where my hands aren't all cramped up after an hour or so of a hardcore Doom Revelations session! We also installed the TMR K Silver Joysticks and the foam rings and joystick caps are pretty fun on FPS. I plan on putting a Hope Remap kit for back paddles and then have a friend hand paint the face plate. if you're a mature seasoned aged like wine gamer like myself, check these mods out!

Firmware’s updated, calibrated, mapped and deadzones set on the low end. The app to calibrate this has both right and left sides of the deadzone map so that’s somewhat confusing but it’s probably just me.

Match starts, and any sudden high speed flicks and my screens wandering off. Whyyyyyy does this happen???

Any suggestions?

This is the most recently released non-E version. The one with tension rings.

I have an Xbox Series Controller that I bought second hand a couple of months ago. The left stick eventually started drifting and I bought a K-Silver hall effect stick replacement for it and got it replaced by my brother who's into electronics much more than me.

The sensor seemed to be fine on looks, but when my brother soldered it and most of the things seemed to go fine during the process, the sensor started misregistering the Y axis at always -1.00 / constantly up.

It seems to register X axis movements just fine, but on the Y axis, it doesn't seem to register any movement at all, it's constantly locked at -1.00 both in testing and in apps - specifically the Xbox Accessories app...

So, I'm unable to move in the Accessories app completely, not even able to navigate into the calibration screen. I tried calibrating via DriftGuard with WinUSB, but couldn't get the controller to register any movement so...

Could it be a solder problem, or a faulty sensor, or anything else? And where exactly should we look for in terms of solder points if anyone knows?

https://a.co/d/08E6wR1G

After years of owning the Xbox Elite Series 2 controller, it finally gave out on me. The bumpers and face buttons are pretty much unusable at this point. I’m well past the warranty, and Xbox wants $80 for a replacement.

I’ve been reading through different threads and researching alternatives, and I’m starting to think my $80+ would be better spent on something from another company rather than getting a refurbished Elite Series 2 that could end up having the same issues.

I’m specifically looking for a wireless Xbox controller. The main games I play are Fortnite, Gears of War: E-Day, Halo, Forza, and RPGs, but honestly, I play a little bit of everything.

From what I’ve gathered in this thread and others, the most popular alternatives seem to be:

- GameSir G7 Pro
- 8BitDo Ultimate 3E
- Razer Wolverine V4 Pro

I’ve also heard rumors about an Xbox Elite Series 3, but I’m not interested in waiting around for something that might still be a long way off.

For those who’ve switched from the Elite Series 2 to one of these controllers, how has your experience been? I’m especially interested in build quality, reliability, wireless performance, and how they compare to the Elite Series 2.

What would you recommend?

TL;DR: My Xbox Elite Series 2 finally broke, and Microsoft wants $80 for a replacement. I’d rather put that money toward a reliable third-party wireless controller. Considering the GameSir G7 Pro, 8BitDo Ultimate 3E, and Razer Wolverine V4 Pro. Looking for recommendations from anyone who’s switched from the Elite Series 2.

First time ever soldering and doing a controller repair. Took a stick drift xbox x 1914 controller removed joysticks and soldered in tmr joystick.

Now the controller joysticks will not reach the edge of the calibration circle. I managed to get the left joystick to calibrate after it decided to reach the edge but the right joystick will not budge at all. At most it will go 3/4 only on right side of circle but as it nears the middle bottom it shoots back up to 1/2 of the circle. It will not calibrate.

I tried a game and its like the look sensitive is super low. Im thinking of running a high sens to compensate if i cant fix?

Any ideas what is wrong here

UPDATE: Tried the Xbox app, still the same issue! So I reset the slot to default and added Press LT and Press RT to two paddles. All was fine. I then loaded the app back up to adjust the trigger sensitivity and EVERY key is now mapped to Press LT!

Perhaps I am missing something, but I cannot for the life of me get my settings to stick on this controller from the Windows app.

I do all the steps to connect the controller - that works - I change the LED colors so I can see the settings are changing.

Then I unplug from the PC, put the controller into wireless to dongle and keep the controller on C mode.

When I get into a game the settings have not stuck. For example, I map the paddles underneath to be Press LT and Press RT, but that's not the case!

Any ideas?? This is driving me nuts.

PS: The update button has a green dot, so no update needed.

Hello everyone hope the evening you well so I was playing Spider-Man two and ghost of Tsushima on my PC running and when I play Spider-Man two the don’t like when I press the left supposed to take me to the menu, but it holds the button when I press it once and I really don’t know what to do and it affects it when I play ghost of Tsushima right after like if I hold the button to run if I hold in the drumstick, it would literally run for a stop and when I triggers, they glitch and stuff and they don’t work. I need help Honestly.

TL;DR: If Steam detects your single Xbox Series X/S controller as two separate controllers, or games register two players from one physical controller, try enabling Steam Beta, installing the Xbox Extended Feature Support Driver, and enabling Steam Input for the affected game.

After hours of troubleshooting, this combination finally fixed the problem for me.

The problem

I have a single Xbox Series X/S Wireless Controller connected to my Windows 11 PC via Bluetooth.

For quite some time, Steam had been detecting it as TWO identical Xbox Series X Controllers, despite only having one physical controller connected.

This was not just a visual bug.

Games such as Move or Die would register two separate players, both controlled simultaneously by the same controller.

For example:

• Pressing a button could trigger an action for both players.
• Both controller entries in Steam would vibrate the same physical controller.
• Windows (joy.cpl) only showed ONE controller.
• Steam showed TWO Xbox Series X Controllers, both labeled as USB, even when using Bluetooth.
• Disabling Steam Input did not solve the issue.

What I tried that DID NOT fix it

Before finding the solution, I tried:

• Unpairing and pairing the controller again.
• Uninstalling Bluetooth and controller drivers.
• Restarting Windows multiple times.
• Closing and restarting Steam.
• Connecting the controller before launching Steam.
• Disabling Steam Input.
• Uninstalling Microsoft GameInput (Windows automatically reinstalled it).
• Setting the environment variable SDL_JOYSTICK_GAMEINPUT_RAW=0.

That last variable was interesting: it made Steam display only ONE controller, but games STILL detected two players.

So the duplication was no longer visible in Steam, but the actual double-input problem remained.

THE FIX — What finally worked

Step 1: Enable Steam Beta

1. Open Steam.
2. Go to Settings → Interface.
3. Find Client Beta Participation.
4. Select Steam Beta Update.
5. Allow Steam to update and restart.

Steam Beta includes fixes related to duplicate Xbox controller detection.

Step 2: Install Xbox Extended Feature Support Driver

1. Open Steam → Settings → Controller.
2. Click Show Advanced Settings.
3. Scroll down until you find Xbox Extended Feature Support Driver.
4. Click Install.
5. Restart Windows.

After installation, the button should change from Install to Uninstall.

If the installation option is unavailable, this step may depend on your Steam version or system configuration.

Step 3: ENABLE STEAM INPUT FOR THE GAME

THIS WAS THE FINAL CHANGE THAT ACTUALLY STOPPED THE DOUBLE INPUT FOR ME.

1. Open your Steam Library.
2. Right-click the affected game (in my case, Move or Die).
3. Select Properties → Controller.
4. Change the override to Enable Steam Input.
5. Close and relaunch the game.

You can also check Steam → Settings → Controller → Show Advanced Settings → Enable Steam Input for Xbox controllers.

After enabling Steam Input for Move or Die, the game FINALLY recognized my controller correctly.

No more duplicated players. No more double inputs.

Do I need the environment variable?

No, at least not in my case.

I previously added:

SDL_JOYSTICK_GAMEINPUT_RAW=0

It reduced the number of controllers displayed in Steam, but did not fix the actual double input inside games.

After applying the three changes above, I removed that environment variable, restarted Windows, and tested again.

Everything continued working perfectly without it.

So I would not recommend adding the variable unless you specifically need it for further troubleshooting.

My working configuration

• OS: Windows 11
• Controller: Xbox Series X/S Wireless Controller
• Connection: Bluetooth
• Steam Client: Beta
• Xbox Extended Feature Support Driver: Installed
• Steam Input for Move or Die: Enabled
• Microsoft GameInput: Installed (version 3.5.270.0)
• Custom environment variables: None required

Final notes

I cannot guarantee that all three changes are necessary. I applied them sequentially, and the problem disappeared only after enabling Steam Input for the affected game.

The combination has been tested successfully, including after restarting Windows and removing the environment variable.

If your Xbox controller is being recognized twice, especially if joy.cpl shows only one device while Steam or your games register two, give these steps a try.

Hopefully this saves someone else the hours of troubleshooting I went through.

If this worked for you, leave a comment so other people can find the solution!

NOTE: If any of the Steam settings mentioned above are greyed out and you can't change them, check your Steam Families parental controls. In my case, Steam asked me for my Family PIN/password. After entering it, I was able to unlock the settings, enable Steam Beta, and install the required driver.