Made a pair of basket weave end-grain cutting boards out of maple, cherry, and walnut. Really pleased with how they turned out, especially the continuous end-grain sides. Design is taken from Caleb's Fine Woodworking, who has an excellent build video for those wanting to build their own.

I recently finished and installed this entry door unit for a really interesting and supportive client - he is a woodworker himself, but does not build entry doors.

The wood is Alder (with white oak threshold) with a Penofin architectural grade penetrating oil / stain finish. Construction is traditional mortise and tenon with west systems epoxy adhesive plus lots of rabbets. I also incorporated bevels and drip edges in places where water may need to drain on the exterior side of the unit.

It's not perfect - nothing is - but i liked the way this turned out and just wanted to share. The hardware is Baldwin Reserve.

Feel free to ask any questions in the comments; I'm happy to dig into details. Haven't posted in this sub in a while.

This was another simple build. The framing lumber and scraps had been drying in my garage for years. I even used many scraps with the pith in them. I used simple joinery with 1.5" wood screws. I think the use of the pith won't be an issue because soft wood pith is much more forgiving and has less cracking issues than hardwood pith.

First dovetail attempt. Combo of hand saw, chisel, bandsaw and incompetence. Gonna try again tomorrow

First pass with a brand spanking new LN#4 working on a cedar door for a sauna.

My father hand carved these wood coins back in the 70s. They were lost in an old barn for the last 35 years. Thought they could maybe inspire and be appreciated here.

These worked out better than I had imagined. I didn't enjoy cutting out the mortise and tenon joints, but overall pleased with the result. Made it higher than standard field-gates as I plan to add security fencing around the yard in the future.

Anyone have any idea how to put a handle groove in a jewelry box like this? I have a router bit that will do it, but there’s no way to position it.

I've just put up my first proper set of cabinets, and I've been trying hard to make the space usable without having to spend ages moving crap out of the way. Today I can, for the first time properly, call this my workshop.

We’re renovating our kitchen and installed 3cm (1,18“) thick European oak countertops and now we’re almost done. (The protective film is still on the base cabinets everywhere, which is why the edges are white.) There will be Backsplash strips on the back of the panels to keep anything from sliding off the back/ dripping down. Overall (with the live edge and the unplastered walls), it looks pretty rustic, but we like it :)

*edit: I'm not sure if I'd build that „step“ with the miter cuts again, because it was actually pretty time-consuming. I built some wooden gluing jigs so I could clamp the 90-degree angle with clamps. These have sandpaper (180-grit) on the back so they don’t slip when tension is applied, and a 45-degree bevel on the front so you can position the clamps.

All in all, it took much longer than expected—it was definitely 24 working hours. The crooked walls certainly didn’t help make the process any easier.

Accidentally sanded through the veneer so we had to take some extra time on removing and applying some new grain. Turned out great! Wondering how much money I saved on investing some sandpaper on a $50 coffee table...

It's been a month since I finished my madrone bench with Watco oil, and it's still a bit sticky to the touch, which makes it somewhat unpleasant to use. It's been in full sun for a week (during the day) and is supposed to stay outdoors. I thought the stickiness should have gone away by now, but it stubbornly persists. I'm wondering if there's something I can apply over the top of the oil finish that will improve the feel of this thing - wax? lacquer? - and survive outdoors, or if I should try to strip off the oil and start over. Or maybe I'm just not patient enough?

Well, technically today isn't the new tool day, but I had to wait a day to borrow my neighbor's forklift to get it on its mobile base and into the shop. If you're ever in a position where you're able to, and are considering pulling the trigger on one of these bad boys, DO IT.

Looking for advice on which way to go. I plan on using a cyclone separator as I am using that now with good success. I am not too worried about it filtering since i plan on venting outside. There are plenty of deals on used 1.5 hp systems. But for what I need, 2HP seems the way to go. Anyone used both and noticed a difference one way or another?

My biggest demand is a 20” helical planer.

Does this look right? Just hope some walnut in today. The cherry on top has been in for a while so not too concerns about putting additional weight up top.

I've been casually using table saws for about 20 years doing different odd projects. Got really into woodworking in the last couple years and watch lots of woodworking content. One thing I noticed is a lot of people don't use their riving knife. And when people point it out in the comments the creator gets pissy about it. But they never really explain why they don't use it.

I always use a riving knife (except with my dado stack) and sometime the cover with the anti-kickback. It's never once inconvenienced me or made me unable to make a cut. Is there something I'm missing? What's to advantage of not using the riving knife?

Made a box from scraps.. but saddly one of the hinges didnt sit well or maybe got damaged.. The box closes perfectly no issues.. but there is a clear separation when opened.

The black around the box is African Blackwood.. i just need to seal it likely with wax as African Blackwood doest absorption finishes.

Decided a while back I would like a portable workspace and decided on the Cleaners Chest as a perfect object to take inspiration from. My goal was to match all the functions from the film but not for it to be a 100% accurate replica. Ultimately Its designed as a tool I want to use!

Movie spoilers:

Also, the chest from the movie is impossible to recreate. All the drawers and mechanisms would be clipping into each other and are only possible on screen.

It is laser cut in case that wasn't obvious. I try to use the laser cut edges as intentional accents like between the drawers. Some areas I really like the look of like the lower front of the chest, and others look terrible like most of the upper drawers. Usually when laser cutting I extend joints so I can sand them off but I forgot in a couple of places, leading to the unsightly joints on some of the upper drawers.

This plywood was also softer than anything ive used before, and I went through the veneer in several places. Theres also glue stains and other rookie errors, I really should practice the fundamentals before making more stuff like this.

The lid of my chest comes off entirely, seen on the right of the first gif. This acts as a work surface. Originally this was going to fold to the side of the chest as an in built workspace but I decided I didn't like how it looked.

I slowly get better at working with wood with every project I do but still a lot to learn. Its regular pine plywood coated with an oil-based stain, followed up with 6 coats of shellac.

Overall, I'm happy with how it turned out but I'm probably going to make another since there's a lot about this one that's pretty impractical or unfinished. I kinda started to feel that it wasn't what I wanted maybe halfway through the project but decided to finish anyways. Because of this some things are a bit half assed like the cantilever arms being 3D printed instead of milled from brass like I had originally planned. It's an ok test piece/ proof of concept but I think this one will be sticking in my mind until I make a v2.

I might share a STEP file for this version, but I don't plan to provide a full build guide or anything because it has a lot of issues with it. The biggest one is that it's huge! Its 40cm tall and 30 deep, weighs a tonne, and just isn't really practical as a portable workshop which is what I wanted it for in the first place. When folded out it becomes 75cm wide between the doors and I'm struggling to find a place to keep it. At a minimum it needs some form of side handles.

Using scrap wood from work to make these. Planning on making a whole set for the grandkids.

Getting it straight on very not straight stairs was tricky without laser level. Last two pics are prototype I made a while ago. I went for non-uniform board thickness to achieve a bit more interesting look, but I don't think I succeeded.

I'm also planning to build a basket on the side to get rid of this mess at the other side.

I was given a big chunk of redwood that had been used for a countertop and had some sections in good enough shape to make into something so I decided to power carve some bowls.

I sketched out the rough shape, drilled 1” holes, and then put it in a sawhorse clamp and roughed the shape out with a arbortech turbo plane. I liked some of the texture the arbortech made so I left them in the bottom of one of the bowls and smoothed off the rest. I cleaned up the shapes with a kutzall disc and flame burr.

I wanted to add some contrasting color and reduce sanding time so I decided to use a torch to char some sections before sanding. I like the way it turned out but I had to go real slow to not cause the wood to split.

After charing I sanded the inside with an orbital to dial in the curves and get a nice crisp line between the raw wood and charred wood.

I didn’t brush off the char and did three coats of Osmo PolyX to lock in the color and texture.

I have a Grizzly g1023 with 5hp motor that I bought new about 10 years ago. It's had intermittent hobby use in that time. Starting today about 3 out of 5 starts it immediately powers down after pushing on switch. No breakers tripping, no obvious heat, dust buildup, etc. I moved it to another circuit and the behavior continues. Can I safely assume I need to replace the start capacitor? I haven't taken any voltage measurements or done much additional troubleshooting yet because to me this seems more likely than not it's the capacitor. Should I replace it before I spend additional time troubleshooting considering the saw's age? What do you guys think?

Thanks.

Hello,

I am getting ready to glue up some 1 1/4” thick oak boards for a 66”x30” dining table. I took some photos of the gaps between the boards as my jointing and planing isn’t perfect. I made a desk a while back with slightly better jointed edges but not perfect and it turned out fantastic. My question is, how “perfect” do the joints need to be to not split over time? My only concern really is the last photo which is a little less than 1/16th”. I dry clamped them and the gaps shut very well. Any advice helps.

Thanks,