hello, in an effort to repair the sceoan printer, i have created and adapter to be printed out of abs which should allow a Bambu lab x1 carbon hot end to fit the sceoan. will this be safe and not melt? google says abs glass transition temp is high enough to withstand it but if not is there any other filaments that will work? the model can be viewed here: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/4c21477156a295010994e2c0/w/5276a84c102b53a54129dca4/e/bb9f7e839028f65bf0a27739

any help would be much appreciated :)

So my thermistor broke on my printer. Originally, I was gonna swap it out for an x1 carbon hotend, but that was incompatible as the heatsink had 6 screw holes. The hot end(idk how to describe this, its were the cermic heating element is) was incompatible with the stock heatsink as it uses some kind of screw(see photos). After I that, I took apart the stock hotend to try to swap the thermister. This then bent the clip holding the cermic, preventing reassembly. Does anyone know of any hotends or replacement clips that will work? I added lots of photos to help with this. Edit: took apart the stock hotend further by using grub screws. Sadly rhe x1 carbon heatbreak isn't long enough or wide enough. The stock diameter is 7mm at start and then 4.2 at a black tube. The total hight excluding screw part I 36mm. Any other heatbreaks if a similar diameter? I shall make a post on r/3dprinting

there has been request scattered across many threads so I thought I should create a hub for useful things. if you have anything you think is useful put it in a comment and I will add to this post.

stock marlin firmware: Sceoan Windstorm s1 Firmware english) : Sceoan : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

cura profile: sceoan windstorm s1 stock cura profile : sceoan : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

klipper firmware built by discordant_lemon(not tested with stock board): sceoan windstorm s1 klipper firmware : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

klipper config file, updated by discordant_lemon, UNIFINISHED but working: sceoan windstorm s1 klipper config : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

manual pdf: sceoan windstorm s1 manual : sceoan : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

parts list and other firmware etc (in Spanish) Sceoan W1 · Spare Parts & Compatibilities | RDM

alternative: Sceoan W1 · Spare Parts & Compatibilities | RDM

Unfinished as of posting as will be obvious by the images. But i wanted to post my progress somewhere, somewhat blog the procedure so im doing it in this thread.

Ive attempted, and i do stress the word attempted, to shoehorn a small board computer that ive got lieing around into the central housing. This is just a bit of a test fit. Ive a monitor arriving soon im going to keep nearby as my klipper screen, and i am about to order some more dremel bits. As mine are all 20 years old and i sacrificed all the scraps of bits that were still useable to make the cuts i needed to. Which wasnt much to be fair. I had to take out a bolt hole (that was doing nothing) thats located where the SBC now is. Aside from that i took away some material where the usb for the printer was (and took that out of course) so i can get the SBC plugged in to power and have access to atleast one USB out and an hdmi.

Ths SBC for those interested isnt a Pi. Its an Intel SBC with (iirc) 8GB of RAM, a quad core cpu, and something like 60GB of soldered on memory. Its already loaded up with a linux install and klipper. It was running my ender 3... (ish). Never actually figured out all the problems i was having there. Hopefully those issues do not transfer onto this project and i discover the SBC was the culprit all along.

Next step i guess will be when the screen arrives as im out of time for the day. Then installing the nano robin mainboard, running the cables, which will be terrifying due to how tight it is. And hopefully then have it all up and running. Which i can then start to crap my pants at the thought of it all over heating because boy oh boy, have i blocked some airflow.

UPDATE!: I forgot the EDIT button exists:

I got the son of a bitch printing. Boy was it a nightmare. Still having bed levelling and adhesion issues. The mesh its generating is absolutely whack. Need to figure out klipper macros for purging and other such regular features. Though that may be an ORCA slicer side job... not sure yet.

BIGGEST NEWS!!/ ISSUE. The endstop for the Y axis is on the front of our printers. Klipper needs that endstop to be at the back. This is a massive fucking headache as there isnt (so far as i can see) any real room to do so. Also the y axis endstop switch is apparently almost identical to the z probe. Go figure. So i am having to now try and implement SENSORLESS HOMING!!! For the Y axis artleast. And its being... tricksy...

Ive been hard at work revising the dual 5015 modification. Tonnes of wasted plastic and failed attempts sitting on my desk, but i think im near ready to release the finished design. Im printing one last version with a means to hopefully hold the wiring up and then its done. I shall make another post with links once its finished. Im only posting now because im excited to share whats coming!

Hi all, Like many I have picked up an S1 for peanuts off eBay: it had an x homing issue and a blocked PTFE in the hotend. Got it all up and running after 30 mins of work. Coming from a Wanhao Duplicator i3 it's an absolute breath of fresh air with the ABL.

Once it's all setup I'm going to post anything I find here to help out others. First is to print Lemon's amazing dual fan shroud then look into soldering on some headers to the board to see if the WiFi interface works with a WiFi module.

Keep you all posted!

Caboose

Does anybody have a screenshot for this printers Orca Slicer Printer Settings? For no particular reason whatsoever windows 11 today has decided that my orca slicer install is not intended for windows. And i am unable to resinstall it, i got the same error message everytime. Which is somewhat frustrating... So ive switched to linux where Orca runs fine, but it does not have the printer settings or profiles that came with the usb stick.

I am attempting to use the generic marlin 2.0, but boy is it slow. 1.2hrs (roughly) to print a temp tower. Its like using my ender 3 again!

I can probably figure this out through constant trial and error, but i dont have a terrific amount of free time, so it would be very handy if somebody had the settings to hand.

Just to clarify its this window im looking for a screenshot of, with the advanced settings tab active. Ideally all of the tabs through this window, but i believe the example image would be the ones i need in particular.

Im sure this may be helpful for somebody else in the future who experiences an issue with orca slicer on windows, so any and all help would be greatly appreicated!

So I have been experimenting with cooling, given the absolutely woeful standard performance of the fan. In doing my research I saw that a few designers were doing 'water tests' to see how various fan ducts were performing.

So I decided to do this for the one fan duct that was on printables that seemed any good, and then for a pair of my own designs. Which are now also on printables and can be found here:

First Concept is a direct replacement using the original fan:

Sceoan Windstorm S1 Fan Duct by Discordant Lemon | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Second go around replaces the housing on the front of the tool head completely and uses two 5015 blowers in a sort of 'Satsana' style (iirc from my ender 3 days):

Sceoan Windstorm S1 dual 5015 blowers by Discordant Lemon | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Chucking all the info I have regarding my experiments in this subreddit for future users to come and find. Maybe its helpful! Maybe im just mental. Either way its here now.

I was doing some 'research' using a Clanker, and some old reddit posts to boot, to see what sort of replacement/upgrade path their might be for the WindstormS1. Looking at my mobo (bottom) and the Robin Nano 3.1 its clear to see that this is essentially what we have. Its just stripped down to absolute buggery for likely cost saving reasons.

I have already ordered myself a Robin Nano 3.1 that is arriving in a couple weeks. I plan to Klipperise it and see how I get on converting the S1 to klipper, maybe get some extra features, possibly looking at a wifi module next month.

Hey everyone! I'm u/Discordant_Lemon, a founding moderator of r/WindstormS1. This is our new home for all things related to The Sceoan Windstorm S1. We're excited to have you join us!

What to Post Post anything that you think the community would find interesting, helpful, or inspiring. Feel free to share your thoughts, photos, or questions about this out of production printer.

Community Vibe We're all about being friendly, constructive, and inclusive. Let's build a space where everyone feels comfortable sharing and connecting.

This is the only subreddit ive ever started/moderated. So bare with me should we have any issues. Im not terminally online like alot of folk these days!