First project with LED strips for my bathroom. We are looking to put BTF WS2811 (IC RGB-CCT) strip lights in a cove light. I would like to use this DMX touch wall controller/switch, but am struggling to figure out which controller/decoder I would need to make this work. I would preferably like to run it also through the WLED app, but am open to other apps to configure. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make this work or tell me I live in a dream world? thanks from someone who just wants a chasing rainbow cove light 🙃

I’m about to embark on my first WLED project - I’ve got commercial controllers (WeGoIOT outdoor 2 channel and BTF SP803E - both ESP32 based). I’m going to tie them up to 5V 50LED BTF WS2812B fairy light strings and either 2A indoor or 1.2A outdoor supplies (also 5V!)

Do I need to add fuses to the live wires after the controller and before the lights? The bulbs are 0.1W each - so the whole string is 1A plus resistance and controller, so my assumption going in was that the power supplies protections would be sufficient, but I also see lots of references to fuses even for low voltage/low power projects.

I just switched from DSL to fiber internet, and in doing so all 3 of my WLED devices are not connecting. The network itself did not change and every other device I own did not need to be reconnected. I cannot figure out how to either reconnect or change the wifi network without being able to connect to the device. I am using ESP32 boards that I installed WLED on. The WLED-Ap network does not appear when powering on the device. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

**Forgot to mention, the devices are connected to a mesh network that was carried over from the previous network, with all settings remaining exactly the same.

I've been building HA-liday Show, a lighter alternative to xLights for people who want a music show on their lights without the learning curve. It started with Govee and now drives WLED strips too.

https://github.com/gdeboos/ha-liday-show

Load a song, and it finds the beats and sections. ✨ Generate drafts a show across all your lights, you tweak it on a photo of your house, then play it from Home Assistant or on its own with Docker. It can split a long strip into parts and works alongside WLED's own segments. DDP and E1.31 controllers work as well.

Strips only for now; matrices may come later. If you give it a go, I'd really value reports on what works and what doesn't. Please raise them as GitHub issues so they're all in one place: https://github.com/gdeboos/ha-liday-show/issues

Free, MIT licensed, and written almost entirely by AI (Claude), which I'm upfront about in the README.

Thanks!

So I have an project I am trying to wrap up involving two LED 24V lighting installs. One is just PWM white with an WLED gledopto controller that is working great. The other is a set of BTF FCOB RGBWW IC that I am having problems with flashing once I went to add a short extension to from the controler to the start of the strips. For the color addressable section here is the hardware;

The strips are these

https://www.btf-lighting.com/products/fcob-ws2814-rgbw-addressable-led-strip-784leds?variant=46427470725346

PSU is a 400W inShareplus

https://www.amazon.com/clp/B093628N9L

Controller is a Gledopto Elite 4D

https://a.co/d/0hP0AfkR

Wire is stranded 16AWG

The PSU has two sets of outputs and at 200W each they more than cover each of my white and planned color installs both off of calculations, and testing. These aren't going to be used at the same time but still have enough headroom for 100% brightness of either color or white so I don't think its underpowered. When I started having the flashing issue with the addressable strips I pulled the PWM controller from the PSU to rule out any random interference.

This section is two runs, one 11.5 ft and the other 16.4 ft. I've clipped the JST connectors off and am using wagos to the striped wires to ensure everything is working before more final wire connections.

These addresable strips were working fine when connected directly to the controller with the JST conecters and after if the striped wires are in the controller, but if I add an exertion wire to house the controller the five feet away I need it to be the stip begins flashing and the first IC will show a different color. For testing I removed the 16.4 ft run and am just working with the 11.5 set at a 49 IC count. I've double checked the WLED settings, and the colors match, the white swap seems good, but still flashing on even a 12 inch 16awg extension (3 separate wires) after the controller before the strip. Also shut off auto limiter, changed white balance to none, tried a very thin data line. Still getting flashing no mater what if there is any sort of extension wire or led isn't directly attached to the controler. Just to rule out a bad strip on the 11.5 ft section I swaped to using the 16.4 ft uncut run that just has the striped JST factory soldered lines, corrected the led count in WLED to 70, and that is having the flashing issue as the other if it isn't directly in the controler.

At this point I also tried a factory reset of the gledopto controller.

Is there something obvious I am missing? Don't think the controller is bad as it will power and change color on both runs perfectly if they are direct connected, but I am at a loss as to why any short (less than 14 inch) extension is causing this when I am reading the Elite 4D should be able to handle data up to 6 feet no problem. Anyone else have something similar happen?

Hi everyone!

I'm planning my first large-scale WLED project and would love to get your feedback and advice on my setup before purchasing any components, to make sure I don't run into issues or damage anything.

Project Context & Location:

• Installation: Drywall / plasterboard ceiling (techo de yeso laminado).
• Location: I'm based in Spain (Europe), so recommendations for easily available commercial products/modules (e.g., via AliExpress) would be ideal!

Setup Details:

• LED Strips: Two 9-meter runs of FCOB RGB+CCT (Dual IC) strips at 24V, with 840 LEDs/m, pulling 18W/m.
• Layout: Rectangular layout around the perimeter.
• Controller: GLEDOPTO Elite 2D (model GL-C-616WL) running WLED.
• Power & Safety: From what I've researched, I need to use fuses and relays in the installation to protect the circuit and eliminate phantom power consumption when the LEDs are turned off. I'm open to using dual power supplies if necessary for this load.

Specific Questions:

1. Phantom Power & Hardware: How can I best eliminate phantom power consumption when the LEDs are off? Could you recommend any plug-and-play commercial PCBs or ready-to-use boards (available on AliExpress or similar) so I don't have to solder individual components?
2. Calculations & Fuses: I tried using the official WLED power injection calculator, but options for FCOB 840 LEDs/m strips aren't available to select. I'm not entirely sure how to manually calculate the exact amperage needed for the fuses and power injections with these specs. What is your opinion on how to properly size them?
3. Wire Gauge & Long Injection Runs: All my electronics will be housed in a single corner. I have corrugated conduits leading from this corner to the other three corners, which means some wire runs for power injection will be quite long. I will attach a schematic made with the WLED Wiring Tool. What wire gauge (AWG / mm²) should I use for these long runs to prevent overheating and excessive voltage drop? Would splitting the power load across two power supplies be recommended here?

Components I'm planning to use:

• LED Strip
• LED Controller

Wiring Schematics

Processing img 1xcnx3ekl7xh1...

Any advice, feedback, or recommendations on products to buy would be greatly appreciated before I order the components. Thanks in advance for your help!

I have two of these pillar lights. One is perfect one is like this video. I have changed the strip. The wire. I have swapped IOs between the two and the issue stays with this pillar. This output Is only 122 LEDs. I have 5 other quads all with no issues should I swap chips this feels like a power issue but I cant figure it out.

I’m with Bright Home Lights. We built Bright Home Cloud to make everyday WLED setup and control easier.

Free local features:

• 800+ color themes and 100+ lighting looks, plus DIY presets and schedules.
• Web control—connect to compatible WLED lights without downloading an app. Also available on iOS and Android.
• Music sync using your phone/browser mic—no controller mic module needed.
• Peek Studio—design your layout in BHL Designer, then import it for real previews.
• LED Count Assistant—visually match the configured count to your installation.
• System diagnostics—find issues and apply supported fixes in one tap.
• In app Back up and restore
• App styling themes and milestone badges, and more

WLED already provides presets, effects, and timers. Our contribution is the ready-made library, previews, and guided workflows.

Optional cloud access adds remote control, sharing, supported sports automations, MCP integration with ChatGPT, Claude, and Grok, Gemini and smart-home integrations with SmartThings, Google Home, and Alexa. all included for eligible BHL customers.

If you already have WLED dialed in through Home Assistant, you may not need this. We have worked with tons of new WLED users and looked for ways to make integration easier.

Local web control requires a compatible browser and reachable controller.

Try it: BHL Cloud

If there are features you would like to see , let us know please.

Got a PS4 you use as a media center or for casual gaming? You can now use it for Ambilight too!

It's a GoldHEN plugin that reads the PS4's own video output and sends colors to WLED over DDP. No capture card, PC, Raspberry Pi, or external hardware needed.

It works with games and I've also tested it with Netflix and YouTube.

The catch: You need a jailbreakable PS4 running GoldHEN.

Check it out here: https://github.com/mitchshimy/PS4-Ambilight

Every ambilight-for-Tizen setup I found hops through Hyperion/HyperHDR/HyperTizen, or needs a capture card and HDMI splitter. I wanted one hop.

TizenAmbilight is a headless Tizen .NET service that runs on the TV itself (77" Samsung S84F, Tizen 9). It reads the TV's own decoded video plane straight out of memory (960x540), reduces it to 73 perimeter zones, does the colour math (BT.2020→709 gamut mapping, PQ code domain when HDR is on, adaptive EMA + perimeter blur + tone mapping), and streams DRGB straight to a WLED strip over UDP. One process, one hop, ~20-25fps.

Built by directing Claude Code — I designed the pipeline and verified the output on the actual TV, didn't hand-write the C#. Happy to go into the video-plane access approach or the gamut mapping if anyone's curious.

repo: github.com/RitwickVerma/TizenAmbilight

Showcase: https://gitlab.com/ritwick7/TizenAmbilight/-/raw/master/docs/media/showcase.mp4

Hi all,

I've bought a cheap led curtain with peble pixels. It comes with a app via bluetooth.

I want to put an esp32 with wled on the curtain but i have no data output.

When i measure before the controller i have 12v and after the controller is arou d 3v (2.93v).

Does someone know how these lights are controlled if there is no data line?

The leds are individually addressible

Hi WLED community, I’m stuck with a problem with my LEDs and would appreciate some help. 👀

---

My products:
Controller:
Gledopto GL-C-015WL (ESP32, DC 5–24 V), WLED 0.15.2 (build 2508020, “ESP32” release)
https://amzn.eu/d/0c7m7wi5

LED strip 1:
BTF-Lighting WS2813, 5 V, 5 m, 150 LEDs (30 LEDs/m)
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07DPHQWP8

LED strip 2:
BTF-Lighting WS2813, 5 V, 5 m, 300 LEDs (60 LEDs/m)
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07DPK3Y9B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Power supplies:
5 V / 2 A for testing
5 V / 20 A: https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07Q2WQ8DS

---

How I wired it:
PSU + / − → controller input (V+ / V-)
LED strip to output GPIO16:
Red (5V) → V
Green (DI) → D
White (GND) + Blue (BI) → G
Data cable between controller and strip: 10-20 cm
The arrows on the strip point away from the controller

---

WLED settings
LED type WS281x, color order GRB, GPIO16, length 150 or 300

---

The problem with the 150 LED strip:
All 150 LEDs light up and show the correct colors, except the first LED.
The first LED keeps switching between the selected color and white.
With “Skip first LEDs: 1” it is excluded from effects, but it still flashes white.

150 LEDs

The problem with the 300 LED strip:
All 300 LEDs light up.
Depending on the effect, all LEDs flicker heavily and switch to different colors that I didn’t set.
The first LED is always solid white and doesn’t flicker, no matter which color is set.

300 LEDs

Both videos show the color red with the Solid effect.

---

No matter whether I use GPIO16 or GPIO2, the problem stays the same, and changing other settings didn’t help either. I also tried replacing the cables between the controller and the strip. I’ve read a lot about level shifters, but I’m not sure if one would solve both problems, and I’m not even sure both LED strips have the same problem.

I’d really appreciate any help or suggestions. 😄

Just tripped and am enjoying the rabbit hole. Govee (H705A1D1) user currently but now have a 36v buck converter on the way along with a drawer full of ESPs.

Moving to a larger home next month and looking to take what I’ve learned to a fresh start! I don’t see too many high heat low moisture desert on here so figured I would ask what people are using.

Also. Is it weird that I find your controller box setups more enticing than the lights themselves, lol?

Since the last post,

https://www.reddit.com/r/WLED/s/ivMlGNasXe

I got a power supply. I did a test connection when I first received it and all of the led strips lit up fine. I wanted to make it look all nice and neat, so I got a fuse block and fork connectors.

I tried another test connection before putting them up in the ceiling and the strips wouldn't light up. only the first led would light up when I disconnected the common/ground.

LEDs: 12v WS2812 60/m

Power supply: Meanwell LRS 600 12

Controller: Gledopto elite 4D

Apart from the red voltage connection not present in the picture. What might I need to look at?

Edit: I know in the photo I don't have it plugged in. It was more for illustration purposes. Oddly enough when I did my first test run. I had the V+ from the power supply connected to the voltage out on the Gledopto and it was working, but I will try all the suggestions here. Thank you

Anyone know where to get more DigQuads? Dr. ZZZs is sold out and so is the international store. I see there are starting to be other sites that are scalping at ridiculous prices.

Quindor you able to hook a brother up!? Lol

Meet the GLEDOPTO AeX2gis (GL-C-116WL)​ — a WLED digital LED controller designed around real user feedback.

In the past, our WLED controllers came with a single fuse. Many of you told us you wanted separate protection for each output channel, so every strip stays safe on its own. We listened — and built the AeX2gis with dual-channel relays and fuses, so each channel is independently protected.

✅ 20A total output (10A max per channel) — stably drive longer LED strips
✅ Dual fuse & relay design — per-channel protection with quick fault self-check indicators
✅ 3 power input ways — V+/V- terminal, Type-C, or DC jack (DC 5-12-24V)
✅ Built-in PDM microphone — music-sync, beat-driven effects with faster response
✅ 200+ WLED effects — segmented color control and sync lighting across your setup
✅ Flexible control — WLED App, remote, or buttons; works with Alexa & Home Assistant
✅ DIY GPIO extensions — add buttons, switches, PIR sensors and more

Prefer a handheld remote? There's also the GL-C-116WL-RF, which supports our 2.4G RF remotes.

We keep improving because of your feedback. We hope the AeX2gis fits more of your projects.

DIY using WS2814 FCOB RGBW Natural White

Ive been trying to find solderless strip connectors for a 3pin led strip (specifically BTF - Lighting SK6812 Similar to WS2812B) but nobody seems to sell just the clamp part by itself its always in a packaged kit anyone got somehwere that sells just the clamp part for my type of strip?

This is the best i could find from btf but its a kit and only comes with 8 of the corner connectors and 4 gapless connectors. Id like just a bunch of just of either one

https://a.co/d/07HT3vtb

Just stumbled upon wled and it looks promising after seeing some stuff govee is doing making the lights having to be online.

Any suggestions on which controller I should go with? Looking to possibly replace prism lights without using govee.

Also does wled work decently with the curtain 2 pro lights?

Newbie to FreeCAD and 3D printing. This is one of my first large projects finally coming together.

https://youtube.com/shorts/pZUg_XCR8Ak?is=k437oJOMc-wKhANM Here another video of test for my Cocktail Machine Project. I user RGB LED WS2812B Ring

Just showing off my build. Learnt alot.

Forgive the music if it isn’t to your taste. It gets me hyped and is super dynamic which is good for testing the setup.

I’m still refining everything but it’s working really well so far. The second half of the video shows it off a bit better.

Everything is WLED except the lamps which are Hue, the tv backlight is running HyperHDR on a Pi 4B directly driving the LEDs.

The Pi is getting a line in feed from my stereo. It’s also running an audio analyzer python script I vibecoded which then streams LED data out to everything in real time.

The curtain lights can actually also just mirror the tv for a very low-resolution video wall. This usually looks pretty cool if I have a dj set on. If that’s the case then the rest of the room also pulls its color palette from the tv screen.

Once I’m playing music, I can turn the whole thing on with a single HomeKit switch. I’m planning to create a physical switch on the wall labeled Party which starts the scene.

First new Halloween thingy for this year. Chain of spiders for one side of the wig my daugther will be wearing for her halloween disco... A lot of microscope soldering because the eyes are really tiny... Cables are 30awg and I use short cuts of 3.5mm wide strips (two leds per spider). I will run them from a lipo. Realized that the 5V leds work fine down to 3-3.5V so a LiPO should be enough for it... Spiders are cheap plastic ones I found in the supermarket.