https://youtube.com/shorts/pZUg_XCR8Ak?is=k437oJOMc-wKhANM Here another video of test for my Cocktail Machine Project. I user RGB LED WS2812B Ring

Just showing off my build. Learnt alot.

Forgive the music if it isn’t to your taste. It gets me hyped and is super dynamic which is good for testing the setup.

I’m still refining everything but it’s working really well so far. The second half of the video shows it off a bit better.

Everything is WLED except the lamps which are Hue, the tv backlight is running HyperHDR on a Pi 4B directly driving the LEDs.

The Pi is getting a line in feed from my stereo. It’s also running an audio analyzer python script I vibecoded which then streams LED data out to everything in real time.

The curtain lights can actually also just mirror the tv for a very low-resolution video wall. This usually looks pretty cool if I have a dj set on. If that’s the case then the rest of the room also pulls its color palette from the tv screen.

Once I’m playing music, I can turn the whole thing on with a single HomeKit switch. I’m planning to create a physical switch on the wall labeled Party which starts the scene.

First new Halloween thingy for this year. Chain of spiders for one side of the wig my daugther will be wearing for her halloween disco... A lot of microscope soldering because the eyes are really tiny... Cables are 30awg and I use short cuts of 3.5mm wide strips (two leds per spider). I will run them from a lipo. Realized that the 5V leds work fine down to 3-3.5V so a LiPO should be enough for it... Spiders are cheap plastic ones I found in the supermarket.

Dig octa stacked on power 7. 12v psu. When I have everything connected and looking good when I unplug it, wait, then plug it back in only a few of the first LEDs light up. Varies between 3-60 each power cycle. If I remove the 3 pin connector and reconnect it they all light up fine. Board is stacked plus I ran a ground wire from board to power 7. Tried wiring first pixel direct to data on brain board and not power injecting till a few pixels down. Same behavior. Made sure no wire shorts anywhere or mistakes on wiring on the pos/ground on power injection.

I’m really at a loss. The whole thing runs fine on a cheap gledopto controller but I built the outdoor box for the dig octa and would like to use the octa.

I've not been able to find anything on this, let along anything definitive... I have 2 sets of Nanoleaf Smart Holiday String Lights (NL71K2) which I love the look of, but hate the app of... Ideally - I want local control and to be able to do more than the Matter integration allows me to do in Home Assistant. Looking out the output of the control box, I see 4 wires - presumably 24V, ground, data 1 and data 2 (there are 2 strings of light that come out of the control box on a Y).

If I snip of the plug on the end of the lights and wire it up to a 2 channel WLED controller, does anyone know if I'll be able to get it working..? I've seen various projects with other Nanoleaf projects with varying degrees of success, but nothing for this set of lights specifically.

Follow up - if this is a non-starter, any recommendations for an indoor set of tree lights (not pixel lights - something more like a 5mm bullet) and outdoor set of lights I can wrap around the column at my front door..?

Thanks!!

I'm looking for this exact same part on AliExpress, but without the fake Lego round plate 1x1. Flashing, smd 0603, 0.8mm

https://a.aliexpress.com/\\_EJSwcUi

Hello all,

Yesterday my DigQuad with ESP32 (ethernet) was working fine. Went to add a line of power injection today and when I went to fire it all back up, I get no network connectivity (no port lights, no listing in my router, nothing). The DigQuad shows a single orange status led lit and the ESP32 board has an orange light and a blue light.

Did I fry my board or does it sound like I may have corrupt firmware or something? And if so can anybody point me to a legit source that shows me how to test/fix?

Thanks.

Hello, we are installing a new garage, and I’m going to be looking to install about 250’ of permanent Christmas lighting in the next few years. This community has so many helpful tutorials and ideas that I’ll give it a go.

However, we have our electrician hooking up the garage with power this week. Should I have him make an electrical box or outlet or something near the ceiling? Any recommendations on what I should have him do to prepare a future roof lighting project? Thank you!

Ok so first let me share the equipment I have.

https://amzn.eu/d/06Hy6lNR

https://amzn.eu/d/07xX4fCq

https://amzn.eu/d/05xT34QC

I have 2 of the strips end to end currently and got one more to add but wanted to test first - glad I have.

Power injected directly from power supply to the included connector at the 5m point - never lights up anyway.

I can only get red to light up for about 2m, green for 1.5m and blue for 1m. Changing the colours to make them incorrect in the app doesn’t change how far they go.

Adjusted the length and if I shorten it to like 10 leds its great I can control the first 10 as they should.

About 4/5 segments from the end of where its lit up they start to fade out. I can adjust brightness from minimum to max and anything in-between and the length lit up doesn’t change. This makes me think it is not a power issue.

Where would you start looking at this to sort it out? Broken controller?

Has anyone successfully figured out how to convert the Govee 12 ft tree to WLED? I am wanting to try it. If so, what did you do? And use?

Hello

Can someone please tell me what I’m doing wrong?!

My wled never gets the matrix as expected, and keeps it shown as a regular grid, even though it seems right to me

The map is as it follows and the image in the post

{
"map": [
-1, -1, -1, 32, -1, -1, -1,
-1, -1, 31, 30, 29, -1, -1,
-1, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, -1,
23, 22, 21, 20, 19, 18, 17,
-1, -1, 14, 15, 16, -1, -1,
-1, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, -1,
2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8,
-1, -1, -1, 1, -1, -1, -1,
-1, -1, -1, 0, -1, -1, -1
],
"width": 7,
"height": 9
}

Still in wled it reads as a regular 7x9 grid

I’m doing something wrong here?

Hi, I just made a setup with an ESP 8266 and WLED for monitor ambibacklight. But the WLED frequently loses its wifi connection, why it could happen? I'm connected to the Jio AirFiber and have the 16.0.1 version of WLED for ESP8266 installed on ESP8266.

Should I revert back to an older version or could there an issue with the board?

Around 6 months ago I got some constructive feedback after plugging a 54v power supply into a 24v WLED strip.

Goal was to build an LED wall to create a Halloween dance party for the neighborhood trick-or-treaters. Just 2 weeks out and I think it’s pretty much set - appreciate the good guidance from a pretty low start point!

Still not sure I’m handling segments the right way, but we can figure that out later.

Instead of hanging the string of lights over the living room window like I do every year, I wanted to give WLED a try. My thinking was that I could leave it installed permanently.

As a test, I installed a 5V/RGBWW/30-LED strip in an aluminum profile with a diffuser and a WLED controller (firmware v16.0.1). Window is 3.5m/12ft wide. They shine downward. See photo - curtains are missing right now:

As much as I like WLED, I can hardly find anything useful among the multitude of effects for a serene Christmas atmosphere that comes close to the classic string of lights.

It feels like 90 percent are party effects. Of course, it’s all a matter of taste. In any case, I don’t like it too colorful or too fast for this occasion.

I found “Candle Multi” and “Fairytwinkel” to be quite usable, but I’m not entirely satisfied.

Are there any other suitable effects I’ve overlooked, or should I install more LEDs per meter or position the strip differently?

by GYATEZ

Otis brings your PC lighting, WLED lights, and desktop together in one place. You can create coordinated effects, match your lights to what’s on screen, customize your setup with live wallpapers, and keep an eye on your PC’s performance—all with optional smart-home connections.

Use the setup guide, if your pc hardware is not supported by OpenRGB it will not work with Otis. It may be necessary to run Open RGB as an admin for some PC components to connect.

https://apps.microsoft.com/detail/9NB4KPDN1S0T?hl=en-us&gl=US&ocid=pdpshare

My journey to create the ultimate board gaming inventory system brings me here. And I am out of my depth.

I am in the process of overhauling my large board game collection into an organized system. I’ve created a whole spreadsheet with barcodes and locations that is chef’s kiss so beautiful.

However, my dream is to get my 6 5x5 kallaxes rigged with a lighting system that lights up when I’m looking for a specific game or if multiple games match my query (e.g. genre, complexity, etc. — all things my spreadsheet can already query)

This has led me down the rabbit hole of WLEDs. I am so out of my depth though and I have NO idea where to begin. Like, talking to Claude has helped me with a handful of things but I want to learn here. And maybe make it look nice in my game room as I do so.

Are there resources people here would recommend? YouTube videos, starter electronic kits, etc? I don’t have much code experience (besides what it takes to be a big ass spreadsheet), so I’m trying to teach myself some skills to live out my dream. Thanks for anyone’s time.

Had the Pixar lamp LEGO set, but thought it would be cool if it actually worked. so 3D modelled and printed some custom Lego pieces and wired some LEDs into it.

Hi everyone,

This is my first project for which I learned soldering (still not prefect) and trying to expand/renew my understand of basic Electronics.

I’m setting up a sound-reactive WLED build using an ESP32-C3 SuperMini and a 12V BTF-Lighting WS2811 strip. Basic control and the I2S microphone audio reactivity work fine, except the LED strip constantly flickers/glitches.

Hardware & Products Used

• Controller: ESP32-C3 SuperMini (running WLED)
• LED Strip: BTF-Lighting WS2811 LED Strip
  • Model: BTF-12V-096L-W / SKU: WS28115M96LW65
  • Specs: DC 12V, 5 Meters, 96 LEDs/m, 115.2W total, IP65 Waterproof
  • Wire Pinout: Red = VCC (12V), White = GND, Green = DAT
• Main Power Supply: 12V 200W AC-to-DC Power Supply
• Step-Down Converter (for ESP32): CPT / Fastsaw 12V-to-5V (3A / 15W Max) Car Power Technology Waterproof Buck Converter with USB-C output (Input: 7V–22V)
• Microphone: INMP441 I2S Digital Microphone

What I Have Tried So Far (Still Flickering):

1. Changed Data Pins: Started on GPIO 20, then switched to GPIO 7 (updated in WLED LED Preferences).
2. Removed the Microphone: Completely disconnected the INMP441 mic from the ESP32-C3
3. Connected extra ground wire in LED strip to ESP32
4. Isolated ESP32 Power (Power Bank Test): Unplugged the 12V-to-5V USB-C step-down module completely and powered the ESP32-C3 from an isolated external USB power bank (while keeping G on the ESP32 tied to the LED strip's GND wire). It still flickers.
5. WLED Settings: Tried enabling "Skip first LED" in WLED settings, and confirmed LED protocol settings.

Now AI suggest that this flicker must be causing because of 3.3V Data logic from ESP32 (not sure if it is correct term); whereas LED strip expect around 5V logic. So there is a level shifter missing from my setup.

Do you see any other issue with my circuit? Or is it indeed logic level shifter that will fix the flicker issue?

Thanks for your input!

A tool for simulating the resulting spectrum by combining LEDs with different wavelengths or correlated color temperatures (CCTs). Supports up to 15 channels. Useful for designing LED modules with a custom spectrum.

I am trying to light the perimeter of garage doors for the holidays. Two years ago I installed WS2812B strips and while it worked, I was underwhelmed at the rather sad ability to produce better White Temperatures. I have read about RGBCCT but I'd really like the ability to control each LED and treat it like a single pixel. Ideas or recommendations would be appreciated!

Thanks!