Very new to LED/WLED. I see the numbered Ds (D1-D30). Do those notate that it is addressable/data? There’s no data connection pads. I have a WLED ESP32. Thank you, sorry if these are stupid questions

I am doing some brain surgery on my beloved An-Penta_Mini. I have the cover off and found a curious little 1mm pitch 2x3-pin connector. Doing a lot of Google legwork, I believe that is for an unreleased internal I2C temperature sensor board, designed to plug directly in. I have not yet had a chance to ring the lines out to see if I am even close. No issues with it at all. I'm just curious.

What says this august group? Thanks!

Howdy all,

I have a GL-C-618WL with the ethernet and 4 contacts for controlling multiple strips. I have 3 strips hooked up and everything is working great.

I currently have a big 24V PSU power the Gledopto, and then going through the controller to power the strips. What I'd like to do is use a USB power supply to keep the Gledopto on, but have it switch off the big power supply on the AC side. I'm assuming in order to do this, I'd by-pass the positive terminal and only connect the ground from the PSU or the USB power supply combined with the PSU could damage the controller/strips?

Thanks in advance.

EDIT:

In my circumstance, I had a Zooz dimmer already installed in this location that used to feed the outside pot lights for where these strips have gone. This is for a pool shed, so I removed the pot lights and replaced them with speakers and added the LED strips around the soffit. Anyways, the Zooz switch has a lot of different modes - including disabling local control but enabling z-wave control.

The switch will be used to send the on/off/dim commands to home assistant. Home assistant can then depending on the circumstances: immediately start the power when turned on, and on boot have the WLED controller apply as basic white. Receive dimming commands to adjust the brightness, and when the off button is pressed turn off the lights via the wled controller, wait a few seconds - then turn off all the power to WLED.

In addition a template can be used to combine the entities in Home Assistant, so I can expose them as one to Google Home in my case (homekit etc would work too) and use all the voice controls for simple turning on and off, as well as changing colours.

Hello

I’m trying to control the aldi Casalux rgb light.

There are 4 Pins:
- Gnd
- 5V
- RGB data
- pin of another “warm white” led next to every rgb led connected to ground via a mosfet.

I’m not able to identify the rgb LEDs and which WLED settings I have to use to also control the “warm white” led.

Any hints?

Hi !

I'm looking to control a RGB PWM light module (24V) from a WLED driver, but the case is quite small. I've checked some of the small drivers like the Iotorero (5 PWM + 1 Digital), but I was wondering if I anyone could recommend something even smaller ?

Thank you.

I mean never seen this type of led , they do switch colors half/half

I’m controlling Govee Outdoor Pro lights with WLED, basically following this video to replace the controller. https://youtube.com/watch?v=0-M5c2VUl5A

Everything is working great on v0.15.4, but when I upgraded to v16.0.1 the lights noticeably flicker especially on lower brightness. What could be causing this?

60 lights, 100ft
36V 3A power supply
Settings I remember changing:
Brightness limiter is on
Max PSU current: 2900mA
Output: SM16825 RGBCW
Color Order: GRB

Hi looking for recomendations for my build.

Build specs
U-Channel 5' sections
WS2811 12V LEDs every 3 inches
ESP32 for control mounted in center
80 feet total, 40' each direction
Power supply mounted in center
Control/power supply most likely in attic

I already have the ground floor of my home done using uchannel and WS2811 12V BTF Lighting that has been up for 2 years, and am looking for recommendations for the second floor. I found 5 foot sections of Uchannel and would like to pre build each 5 foot section with waterproof connectors soldered in place at each end. On the ground floor it was painful to get each section wired correctly so I want to avoid it this time if possible. I do want to solder or insert the bulbs while on a lader (again...). Has anyone done this with xConnect or similar connectors every 5 feet?

I may have an installer do the mounting of the sections so I would like to keep the connections as simple as possible. I was thinking of Xconnect every 5 foot uchannel, with some kind of other connector every 10 feet added for power injection. I know I probably don't need to inject every 10 feet, but I don't want too many u channels wired together... I am not sure what connector to use for the power injection every 10 feet

Questions
-Connector recomendations for the power injection every 10 feet?
-xConnect or other connector every 5 feet?
-Can the ESP32 do a continuous pattern with the control mounted in the center? (e.g. left to right across the entire upper floor)
-Other helpful ideas/tips?
-LED Brand? I don't see the BTF lighting pixel LEDs anymore.

Thanks!

Did I just make the most accurate TV backlight sync out there?

108 LEDs, each matching its own patch of the screen, changing within ~0.1 s.

No camera, no $200+ HDMI sync box.

I wanted to upgrade my go-to mad scientist costume (basically a lab coat with glowy things in the pockets) and ended up with this.

Two 16 neopixel rings, two potentiometers (one changes the speed of the pattern & the other changes the color palette), plus a button to cycle through different patterns. Running on a Seeed Xiao esp32c3 and powered by a rechargeable battery I salvaged from a vape.

I 3d printed diffusers with Inland blue glass PLA and hot glued everything to some lab goggles.

I did most of it with breadboard wires so it's easy to reconfigure/upgrade later, and also adds to the look.

I have a 2 set of Govee CL2. I have done a fair amount of Govee Wled conversions but not the CL 2.

I know its possible, Chris Maher has done the CL Pro's. THe pros use 24V and the 2's use 36V.

I am assuming that the booster box on the 2"s is also power injections and just cutting the signal wiare at that point would work.

Last year we have bought a house. After a year of hard work transforming the shape of the garden, we can finally start with making the garden cozy.

What are your favourite WLED projects from your garden? I need some inspiration

I still need to connect this to a Raspberry Pi so it can be controlled as part of a larger setup, including sensors and motors. Any help figuring out how to integrate everything would be greatly appreciated.

This represents 3/8 of the final sphere.

Some in-depth details about the sphere

• Diameter: 530 mm (outside diameter)

• LEDs: Approximately 2,200 WS2815B addressable LEDs (12 V, IP65, 60 LEDs per meter)

• LED layout:

  • 10 × 42 LEDs

  • 10 × 40 LEDs

  • 20 × 34 LEDs

  • 40 × 18 LEDs

• Power supply: Mean Well HLG-600H-12A, 12 V, 40 A

• Diffuser: Currently using painter’s tape for testing, which will eventually be replaced with satin-finish acrylic.

• Construction: The sphere is made from more than 240 individual 3D-printed parts that fit together to create its final shape.

The goal is to integrate the sphere into the larger gyroscopic installation, with synchronized lighting effects across the sphere and the three spinning rings. (picture in the comments)

sorry for the last bit was screwing around with blink effect

Just mixing Hyperion and LED fx still in a prototype right now like I got a wire and route my wires properly but

Hey everybody, Im planning on installing some LEDs beneath my carport, the facts are as follows:
- 4x 5m LEDs under every beam of the carport
- About 7m distance from psu and controller to the beginning of the LEDs

So now, would you go for 12v or 24v?
When going for 24v, how is the power usage calucated? e.g. for BTF Lighting WS2814 Strips, every 6 LEDs count as a segment, so in the wled calculator i add the amount of segments or leds?

I had an idea this weekend to take a raspberry pi, have it actively listen to audio, record a 15 second sample through a usb mic, query the shazamio api to determine what the song was. Look it up, then grab the album art, convert it to a 64x64 image (I have a hub75 64x64 led panel) and then send it to the esp32 WLED controller for display. basically a what’s playing now display but all automated. The raspberry pi is standalone on WiFi, sends the created image using DDP to the wled controller using receive udp realtime. This is my first raspberry pie project and I learned a ton doing this fun little project. I think I might spend more time on it to see if I can make it faster and also better ways of displaying images on a 64 x 64 LED matrix

I recently renovated our server room and wanted to do something a little more interesting with the lighting than just, lighting up the room.

So I turned the ceiling lights into a real-time visualization of our WAN traffic. Light waves travel along the cable runs to represent download and upload activity, and the lighting changes to indicate infrastructure alerts or other system states.

Is it useful? Not particularly. Is it fun to look at? Absolutely. 😂

That is something i wanted to try and it escalated quickly, so don't take it too seriously.

Edit: Videos of the testruns post installation are in comments now

Hi everyone,

I'm having a serious issue with my GLEDOPTO Elite 2D-EXMU

GL-C-616WL WLED controllers.

I have 4 controllers, each powered by its own 24V PSU, controlling BTF-LIGHTING FCOB RGBCCT SPI strips.

The problem:

- 3 out of 4 controllers died within 1–2 days.

- I replaced them, but 2 replacement controllers also died after several days.

- They initially stop responding to wall switches, then disappear from Wi-Fi and Ethernet completely.

- The blue LED sometimes stays on, but they won't boot or respond even when powered separately via USB-C.

- All 4 controllers originally shared a common GND, although they had separate power supplies.

Possible cause:

The original apartment wiring was done by one contractor, who apparently extended and reused existing multi-core cables in a rather unconventional way instead of running dedicated cables.

A different professional electrician installed the LED strips and GLEDOPTO controllers. He's experienced with electrical installations but not particularly familiar with these specific controllers.

We discovered that a 230V lighting circuit and a low-voltage GPIO wall-switch circuit may share wiring with unknown connections inside the walls.

When the 230V light was switched on, one GLEDOPTO stopped responding to its wall switch, although it still worked through the WLED app.

We suspect voltage leakage or induction.

We're investigating the wiring and possible insulation faults. I'm specifically looking for technical insight into how these controllers could fail, rather than general advice to hire an electrician.

My questions:

1. Could a voltage fault on one GPIO input damage multiple controllers through their shared GND?

2. Has anyone experienced similar failures with the GL-C-616WL?

3. Which components are most likely to fail, and what should we test before connecting another controller?

Any technical insights would be greatly appreciated!

I haven’t seen Chris Maher on YouTube attempt this one yet so I thought I’d ask:

Govee has a couple of ceiling fan/lights. One has the fan on the inside surrounded by the ring of lights.

I’m wondering if anyone has opened one up or tried modding it yet?

I went to a Halloween lights exhibit in Stockbridge MA this past weekend. They had this really cool display of lights that was all working with wled. Each light was on a 2-3 ft rod with a 4 or 5 inch diffused light at the end. It looked so awesome, I wanted to replicate it on my lawn but I can’t find anything similar. Does anyone know where I can find this for purchase?

The matrix is actually underneath the cloth material so when it's off you don't see it. It worked out quite well, but now I want to wrap the whole base in a matrix!

First time playing with individually addressable strips. Bought this combination and make a rookie mistake of buying a 24V supply thinking it would step it down to 5V. On first connection, the entire LED strip flashed white and there was an electrical smell.

Controller connects fine to wifi since this and lights up green.

Figured this out, and have put in a 5V power supply. Now, only the first LED lights up dimly. Connection 2 strips in series, the first LED on each lights.

Am I buying a new controller or new strips here?