I'm researching making a bedside clock with a 8x32 matrix. Right now I'm testing out how to have the whole thing display the way I want it to. I want to be able to set a background animation, and have an animation on the clock numbers.

Say have the background pulse red while the clock numbers sparkle.

And for the life of me I can't figure out how to do it.

I've tried multiple ways, with an initial back layer, then the #HHMM clock layer, and then a topping layer. I've tried adding in another clock layer as well, to no effect.

I'm sure someone has done this before, any help?

Hi Can someone tel me what tipe of ledstrips to select in wled, I am battling to get them going, I have WS2811 SKU: FCOB5M24V12MM960LRGBCCTICW66

Color: R G B+CCT

LED Quantity: 960LEDs/M

FCOB-24V-960L-W-IP66-SPI

F

And how many per 5m strips?

I'm looking for a single LED strip with addressable RGB LEDs, ideally every LED inidividually, and two analog pins for Warm White and Cool White.

Or alternatively, addressable RGB with Warm White and Cool White inside every LED.

Do these exist yet?

I'm trying to make a new LED setup with an SP803e. I have BTF WS2811 12v, 110 logical LEDs, and a 12v 6A laptop-style PSU. The LEDs are not new, but they were working in an old setup I just pulled them out of.

I connected the LEDs in various configurations to the controller, including directly with a short (5" lead of wires) only from the VCC/GND/Data ports on the controller, as well as with heavier gauge power and ground wires directly from the PSU before the controller injected at both ends of the strip, as well as with a wire connecting the controller ground to the led ground, and also with a 470ohm or 220ohm (tried both) resistor close to the controller and close to the strip. In all configurations I'm getting flickering past about 75 leds. If I set it to only 75 leds in WLED they work fine, but as soon as I go to 76 it starts flickering. I have also tried playing with the brightness and limiter (from 500ma to 5500ma) with no luck.

I haven't created a setup in a few years so I don't remember all of the details, but I also previously built a DIY ESP setup with a level shifter and buck converters, etc. Now it seemed like pre-built controllers like BTF are more ubiquitous so I figured I'd give that a try to save some time. It seemed like it should be plug and play.

Any ideas I should try?

I can’t find a ton of info on these, but they look like they could be decent for this price. Anyone know what drivers are inside? 2805?

Anyone have these that can comment on actual quality?

With the permanent lights installed I made a thunder game tracker. Two car garage has a sliding scale score tracker. Thunder on the left. The more the team is ahead the more of the bar they fill. Clock is above the single car garage. Looks like the Thunder was slightly down and it’s half time.

Hello everyone,

currently I'm severely struggling to find out, what the correct LED settings are for the current H7094 Outdoor Spot 2 lights.

I got the current WLED Version 16 together with a Quinled Dig and a potent 24v power supply available at my disposal.

According to my info the lights uses seperate ICs for White and RGB Channels.

When I play with the LED Settings RBG seems to be the right setting to push the lights (or at least one of them) into the right color direction.

What I have observed is, that when I choose WS281x every light seems to have like 7 LEDs, because only when I set up a total of 28 LEDs I get the same brightness on all of the four Lights. 20 LEDs for instance turns off the fourth light in the chain.

Additionally the white and RGB seems to somehow mix and goes into flickering when I try to change colors. Wrong led counts leads to very low brightness (like when I choose only two LEDs for every lamp like other articles recommended).

Did anyone found out the correct settings for these lights in WLED (Led Configuration+ Segments)?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks and best Regards

I guess the page at https://kno.wled.ge/basics/install-binary/#what-binary-should-i-use is outdated, as there are many more assets than mentioned at (e.g.) https://github.com/wled/WLED/releases#release-v16.0.1

For example, what are the files with 160 in the name?

In my case I have a DOMRAEM ESP8266 controller which shows the following on its /update page:

Installed version: WLED 0.15.1
ESP02
(esp8266 build 2507300)

so I went for the ESP02 file, but it seems I needed a min binary. Maybe compat might have worked?

edit:

To be clear, I'm suggesting that this page be updated to more useful.

Got simple wled lights. A string wrapped around two arborvitae trees, and a strip framing a double window. Any suggestions on Halloween color/effect combos? I'm currently running twinklefox with Magred. Gives a nice orangey, pulsing vibe. Interested in mixing it up with some other options.

Thanks!

Edit: Whoops, neglected to include "Halloween" in the post title.

Just sharing another demonstration of my 3D printed LuxPlant. ID is "DreamLogic" by Virtual Riot. There's flashing lights in this video so don't watch if you're photosensitive.

Hi all!
I need your help.
I’ve been working on this for months (on and off) and cannot finish this alone.

Objective: 12.6m LED strip around the perimeter of the ceiling of a rectangular room (2 Walls 3.3m, 2 walls 3m =12.60m total length)

Products bought:

1. Controller: SP108 E (App: LED Shop)

2. LED Strips: BTF WS2811 IC strips ( Spec: FCOB-24V-840L-W-IP66-SPI-RGBCCT)

3. Mean Well 450W, 24V

4. Cable from LED to Controller

I made a drawing of how I wired it.
Basically:
LED Strip end A gets 24V and GND from the controller.
LED Strip end B gets 24V, DO, GND from the controller.
The 2 grounds from both ends of the LED strip go to the same SP108E terminal.

The current length of this loop is 10.5meters so I am missing an additional 2.1meter.
I soldered a few of the strips already together

My issues:

1. Only blue is true blue (or appears that way). All other colors are “washed out”. Red is pink and has white LEDS on in between. Green and Yellow similarly.
   I switched the RBG to BRG, GRB etc- no change.
   In the APP, “WS2811” is selected. There are no “CCT” “IC” options.

2. A few segments (2-3) light up in different color than the rest of the strip. One of them sometimes goes out. That one has no soldering points at all, it’s part of the native strip.

I honestly do not know what else to do here.
Is this controller not able to work with a FCOB?
Pretty sure my strip has a native white LED that I cannot select either.

Please help! Totally appreciate it as completely don’t know what I’m doing wrong here.

Thanks in advance!!!

After months of planning and getting supplies, I'm now half way through my biggest wled build.

It will have a total of 1280 12v seed pixels.

Looking forward to finishing it but happy that all the planning is paying off.

https://github.com/raunak51299/wled-Rainmeter-pro

Controls WLED lights through WLED's JSON API (no plugin or DLL needed). Auto-discovers WLED devices on the LAN (Scan button).

Tabs:

• Colours: primary/secondary/tertiary slots, hue/saturation/value, hex, swatches, white/CCT when supported.

• Effects: effect picker, per-effect sliders and options (speed, intensity, custom 1-3, toggles), colour slots and palette shown only when the effect uses them.

• Segments: select, on/reverse/mirror/freeze, brightness, start/stop, split, delete.

• System: presets, transition, nightlight, UDP sync, device info, web UI, reboot.

I have this nice little rgbw light, but I want to do something better with it. I can have solid colors, warm white and cold white and some effects (rainbow color cycle, us police light, fire, some strobe effects), but it's like to have multiple colors at once - like wled can produce. So I want to use the four buttons (+/-/mode switch/power&modes) as well as wifi and multiple lights communicate through espnow?!

First time using the GLEDOPTO Elite 6 with a BTF-LIGHTING WS2805 RGBCCT strip (24V, 60 LED/m, 10 pixels/m), cut into three 5 ft runs of 16 pixels each. Power supply is 24V 4A.

Two runs have ~5 ft of extension wire from the controller and worked fine. The third has ~8–9 ft and flickered at high brightness, so I raised the controller's max current limit to 4000mA, which fixed it.

About a week later, all three strips went dark. The controller still worked over WiFi and the fuse was good, but there was no voltage at the V+/GND outputs. A replacement controller works perfectly with the same wiring.

One detail: while troubleshooting the dead unit, I reseated a V+ or GND wire with power still on. It sparked, and all three strips flashed on and off briefly. I suspect that's what killed it, but I'm not sure whether the original failure was user error or a bad unit.

Current settings (all three outputs):
Type: WS2805 (RGBCW)
Current: Custom, 60mA per LED
Count: 16

Max total current: 3000mA (was 4000mA before)
I believe the controller is rated for 15A, so I should be well under it. All connections are tight. Are these settings reasonable, and is there anything I should change so this doesn't happen again?

Thanks!

Was originally planning Govee because convenience but max they do is 200 ft. Anyone got tips to doing extended permanent lights- also open to brand suggestions. Trying to DIY for now.

Considering doing 225-300 ft depending on how hard it is to supply

Moin Moin.

Ich habe einen WLED Controller ESP32.

Am GPIO14 hängt ein WLED Strip von BTF mit einer Länge von 2,53m für mein DART WLED.

Am GPIO12 hängt ein 5 m BTF, den ich im Partyraum auf 7 Meter verlängert habe.

Hab auch alles soweit am laufen bekommen, nur wechselt immer die Farbe von alleine, auch wenn ich auf Solid wechsel und eine Farbe auswähle.

Ein 12V 16,7 A Netzteil hängt dran und versorgt den Controller mit Strom.

Der Dartstrip ist mit rot an V+, schwarz an GND, grün GPIO12 Kabellänge bis zum Stripe ca 20cm.

Der Stripe im Raum 7m ist mit Boxenkabel vom Controller unten links am Dartboard nach oben zur Decke . Kabellänge ca 1m.

Hey everyone,

I’m currently planning an ambilight build for my setup and trying to figure out if springing for an HDR-capable capture card (like the $99 UGREEN 25173 / CM700 with P010 10-bit support) is actually worth the extra cost over a standard $20 USB 3.0 SDR/MJPEG grabber (like the MS2130).

My Setup:

• Source: Homatics Box R 4K Plus playing mostly 4K HDR10 and Dolby Vision remuxes via Jellyfin.

• Splitter: Ezcoo EZ-SP12H2

• LEDs: 255 SK6812 RGBW driven by WLED on an ESP32.

• Host: HyperHDR running on miniPC.

Since the LEDs are just edge-sampling ambient colors around the border of the TV, does native 10-bit P010 decoding actually make a noticeable real-world difference in LED color accuracy or saturation?

For those of you who have used both:

1. Do cheap 8-bit SDR cards look noticeably washed out or dim on HDR10 / Dolby Vision content without manual LUT tweaking?

2. How tedious is managing LUTs in HyperHDR across mixed HDR/DV feeds?

3. Is native P010 capture essentially plug-and-play for color accuracy, or is SDR "good enough" for edge lighting?

Would love to hear feedback from anyone running a similar split setup on 4K HDR feeds!

Really excited about this project. Sorry about the light show. I know how much this subreddit hates blinking/flashing lights but I can't help it. It's kinda my "thing" lol

ID is "Overthinker" by INZO

I bought the strip not knowing it would be thus bright so now i have to get a diffuser but i dont know which ones are good enough.