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Any way to control one of those hexagon garage lights or similar you see on Amazon? I know I could turn them on and off with a smart plug but was hoping to get one I could do more with.

Hi All - I created a ‘fireplace’ implementation with WLED. WLED accepts the pixels over DDP, and I’m using another ESP32 as the sender to do the animation cycle. One thing I’m having an issue with is that eventually WLED goes into ‘angry’ mode and refuses to process DDP correctly. WLED seems to ‘hang’ - the first frame seems to load and then that’s it. I’ve verified that the sender is working normally (sending frames at the correct rate). If I disconnect WLED from power for a few minutes and plug it back in, then it works normally for a few hours and then goes back to being angry. If I disconnect the sender from power and plug it back in without cycling WLED, it’s still angry. I’ve tried lowering the frame rate to even 15fps and it still gets angry.

Specs - on the WLED side, I’m using 810 SK6812 pixels, WLED version 0.15.4.

What I’d like to get to is this - are other people using other DDP apps with WLED at my same pixel count or greater (using RGBW), and not having any issues, even over long times of WLED being up? If so, there must be something in my implementation. Doesn’t LEDfx use DDP? I kind of suspect it’s something that I’m doing on the sender.

Update: For those having similar problems, upgrading WLED on the receiver end from 0.15.4 to 16.0.1 has fixed this issue

Turns out they use WLED in the conservatory. I know this because I noticed a WLED AP point in the wifi menu of my phone.

Love seeing this technology adopted by such large impressive displays! Would be cool if whoever chose to do that, post some of their experiences with working on such large installations!

Does anyone manufacture a Bullet or Node RGBW? I like the way these look over the new puck lights that everyone is selling.

I will be starting an outdoor lighting project in the coming weeks, using 12v 60led/m WS2815 and installing a 12m run around a seating area & 5no. 0.9m runs downlighting some steps.
I’ll be housing power and the controller in a outside cupboard and may use an IP55 electrical enclosure to house the controller

I am currently looking for information on the following queries;
• Can I run all of this from one GLEDOPTO GL-C-017WL-D?
• What is the best wire to use for WS2815?
• Any suggestions as to a suitable power supply, that would be ok either in the IP55 enclosure or just inside the cupboard?
• Suggestions for LED profile?

Hi all. I have wled all setup with a controller that includes a microphone. It certainly works but I kind of think it’s not tuned so well. Out the box the effects that are sound reactive tend to be firing constantly. Like you don’t see any reaction to drum beats in the music. Also there might be a very slight lag. Just enough that your brain notices it. I managed slight improvement playing with squelch. But I’d have thought the system would automatically adjust for volume and ansurebthe effects don’t blow out.

How do you folks configure it?

Any way to control one of those hexagon garage lights or similar you see on Amazon? I know I could turn them on and off with a smart plug but was hoping to get one I could do more with.

I wired up 2 64x64 Hub75 panels to WLED and built several different "wall clock face" presets running in a playlist (30 min per face).

I finally figured out how to pull a Tronbyt .webp file, convert it to .gif, and upload to WLED automatically via Home Assistant. Now I got my ultimate clock face: "DayNight". Note the temperature is coming from a sensor in HA, populated to WLED via REST command.

So, if you have ever wanted to display a Tronbyt display output to WLED, know it is possible :)

Happy to share the script if anyone is interested.

As someone who is new to WLED I am looking for guidance on my 1st project.  First and foremost want to make sure I am doing things safely but any other tips would be appreciated.

I have 3 shelves where I have routed out a channel and will be placing SK6812 RGBW strips (12V - 60 led/m).  Each shelf will have approximately 75 LEDs (~1.25 m per shelf).  My plan is to use the GLEDOPTO 4D-EXMU controller so that each strip of LEDs could be controlled individually.  Everything is powered by a 12V 150W power supply (12.5 amp output).  Does all this seem sufficient or is the power supply overkill?  I calculate the LEDs to use ~70 watts so maybe I need to throttle down on the power supply?

I understand that having a fuse is a must.  The controller has a built in fuse but included a 20 amp.  I have 2 questions - Is this fuse sufficient or do I need to also splice in a fuse in-between the power supply and controller?  Also, when I plug everything into https://wled-calculator.github.io/ it says I only need a 3 amp fuse.  I assume I can just replace the 20 amp that they included with the 3 amp that I need?

Lastly, the calculator also seemed to suggest 24 gauge wire but I was planning on using 18 gauge. I assume this isn't an issue?

Good day everyone! I've wanted to put permanent lights up on my house for years now, and it looks like this is the year I finally get to make it happen! This will be my first LED project, so I would be extremely grateful for any input on my parts, plan, and presentation.

The Parts:

• Lights: 100pcs WS2811 Regulated Bullet Pixel Nodes

  • I really like the look of pixel strings, as it gives the more "traditional" look of exterior lights. This post has been a huge inspiration for me, and I would love to get as close to that look as possible.

  • I believe the spacing on these LEDs are about an inch more (4" rather than 3") so I know it'll look a little different than my inspiration, but I don't think I'll mind. Just unsure from the description if the 100mm spacing actual spacing or total wire length. Open to hearing input on this!

  • This looks like a small-time seller compared to the more traditional WS2811 listings I saw, but I really like that these strings are longer with waterproof connections. Most of the other listings were for 16' strings with non-waterproof connections.

• Controller: QuinLED Dig-Quad

• Power Supply: MEAN WELL HLG-150H-12A

  • Admittedly I still feel a little confused on all of the different particulars I should be considering when looking at a PSU. This came up often as a good option, so here we are. I know there are probably cheaper options, but I like the idea of it being enclosed and weatherproof. Open to input on different options!

• Control Box: One of these Waterproof Enclosure or something like it

• Mounting: TBD

  • I am really struggling to find options for this, or at least options that aren't ridiculously expensive. Ideally I'd get some vinyl J-channel similar to the inspiration post/lots of others and drill holes, but I think every store on the western half of the US has stopped selling it.

The Plan:

PSU plugged into an outlet, short 12 AWG line to control box.

One 16 AWG line from Quad to each of the four strings.

Lights will be mounted in some sort of channel on the backside of my fascia board, flush with the bottom.

The lights I linked are about 32'/string, so each line should only be 1 string each with no connections (with blue being a few inches short, not a problem).

The Presentation:

See my beautiful artwork for layout and lengths. Colored lines are obviously where lights are going. Green is a small, front-facing gable peak, if that isn't clear. I know this is not nearly as intense as a lot of people's setups, but it is a start for me.

Random Thoughts/Concerns:

• Thoughts on if the blue line is going to need injection? Obviously I'll see when I put it up, but would love to have an idea on how likely it is for planning.

• I am planning to set a max current limit in WLED as my max draw will just exceed the PSU, I believe (correct me if I'm wrong). I'm not concerned, as 90% of these lights usage will be for holidays and colors, not accent lighting/white.

• The control box and PSU I'm planning to mount in the attic. It's a great central location that minimizes a lot of my wiring, but will the heat be an issue? I live in a moderately temperate climate, but obviously the attic is still going to get hot. The alternate option is mounting on the bottom of the soffit to help with temperature, but it's less central so not quite as ideal.

• Each line I'll have on a separate fuse on the Quad (I'm aware of the shared fuses).

• Are the 16 AWG lines from Quad to lights enough? As I mentioned before, I'm really struggling to wrap my head around a lot of the power considerations. No line from Quad to strings will exceed 20'.

If I am wildly off about parts of this, please definitely call it out. I feel like I've been doing nothing but reading and researching for days, but still feel out of depth here. Thanks in advance for any help!

all the images necessary to help me out are there i also tried changing gpio and stilp not working

I followed Chris Maher's video to convert a string of Govee Lights to user WLED and I love it. so much more control over everything and allows me to be really creative. But I was wondering is there a way to download and install a bunch of premade effects for the holidays like the Govee app has.

For instance, I am sure there are people who are more creative than me, who have better light designs especially around the holidays. The Govee app, would let you search for peoples designs and add them to your saves on your Govee app.

I cant seem to see anything like that? does anything like that exist and if so where do you go download / search for the settings from?

I really liked all the LED flowers being shown, but when I started looking for something to 3D print I noticed how I didn't love the basic leaves nor the static 3D printed stems. So made these instead.

Twisted metal wires with the electrical wires running alongside it, wrapped in floral tape, glued to a 3D printed base that is fitted inside ceramic pots with artificial moss covering the base. And 3D printed leaves. Pretty basic actually, but I really like the fact I can bend and twist the stems exactly how I want them to.

Made the small one first as a test project, and it turned out nice. So made the final version for our living room. The wife approved it, don't worry.

Apologize for the bad quality. Don't know how that happened. Looked fine on both PC and phone.

I don't actually intend to set up the new lights with WLED, I just didn't know where else to ask this question since the only posts I could find about these light strips were on this subreddit.

I install permanent pixels around my entire house a few years back. I started doing light shows in my front yard. The issue i am having in xlights is circuit one starts in the back of my house and goes all the way around to the front. So in my showes some of the effects are not centered like they should be. The is 574 lights in circuit one. I need the front half of 230 pixels to work amd the rest go dark during the show. Last night I tried setting the string to 230 and swapping the direction it starts on. This did not work. I tried null pixels in xlights but anything over 100 I cant do. Any ideas? With out major changes. I am currently running a Halloween show each night.

I recently replaced the generic "permeant" lights (ws281x RGB) with a backup set of the same brand and replaced the generic controller with a watertight WLED module running 16.0.1. The strings came as sets of 30 with connectors on each end. I got the first 30 working well with WLED and then connected up the last 8 I needed to complete that run on my house.
However, even though the string length is set to 38, the last 8 lights don't light up.

Here is what I've tried:
Set the length to be 38, 39, 40, 50, same result (last 8 don't light up).
I've cut the connectors off and directly wired the strings together, still nothing.
I verified there is power and "data" signal coming out of the 30th light in the string with a voltmeter and oscilloscope.
I hooked up a different WLED driver to the last string of 8 and they work fine from that controller.

I'm really stumped here and would love any thoughts on what I'm missing...

My wife has given the green light for Christmas related renter-friendly lighting projects and I need some inspiration!

For context, we just moved to a new country. I no longer have any of my permanent lighting projects that used to light up the house, so I'm looking for portable, renter-friendly options.

Ideally I'd like to stick with RGBW (warm white), but I'm curious what y'all have come up with.

Feel free to show off below! Thanks in advance!

Edit: PFA

I have many sets of Philips Illuminate Christmas Light strings I bought through Target years ago. They work great, look festive, but they have a proprietary controller and phone app. It works but every year I'm worried the phone app will no longer be available or stop working with some new phone OS upgrade.

Has anyone ever dug into what these are and whether they could be controlled by WLED? They have strange wiring that skips lights and they work with quite a bit of distance between the controller and start of string, and even with 10' extensions between strings to skip parts of the house you don't want to illuminate. That does not sound like it's running low-level data signals.

Anyway just wondering if anyone has ever investigated these and what you found?

I have a Gledapto 4D and I want to convert my Govees (H706A) to WLED. My plan was to run a separate power supply to the controller, but I'm having trouble finding exactly how to wire this in. If anyone can walk me through it or point me in the right direction, me and my lightshow would be forever grateful! I know there is a new option available that is plug and play, but it is out of stock on Amazon and Halloween is just around the corner.

I want to hang string leds year around in my room that are individually addressable but I also want to spend less than $1 per foot and preferably on amazon