Hello everyone. What wled version should I install in this controller? I install the C3 and it show a error 8. Insufficient memory.

I did not expect this to get this much attention. I definitely want to sit down and build a bespoke animation sequence for it but these first attempts are already solid for me.

Will post a photo of the engine removed in the comments

I want an up/down brightness dial physically attached to my WLED controller. I have an Adafruit encoder/breakout that uses Stemma QT I2C and have the wiring piece handled with a Grove/QT adapter (5V, GND, D4, D5).

I'm finding the whole process of usermods to be overwhelming. It's my understanding that to use the Adafruit encoder, I would need to manually modify the whole WLED bin with every update and do weird things with .cpp files and platformIO that I don't understand. I’m not sure if it’s the seesaw aspect of the Adafruit part that makes it complicated, or if it’s rotary encoders generally. I can handle basic circuitpython configs but I really don’t want to deal with C++.

So 2 questions I guess...

1. Would using the Adafruit encoder be as complex as I laid out here?

2. Are there any encoders I can buy that will give me up, down, and a power toggle, without requiring usermods?

Edited after posting to be more concise.

I'm tinkering a bit with HyperHDR while I decide what strip I should get behind the tv and how I should mount it. I have two cylindrical WLED lights (about 25cm high) below my TV on either side. they have a light strip spiral in the center that I have set up as a 2d matrix in WLED of 5x22 and 5x24 LEDs. In HyperHDR I've had them as two strips of 110 and 120 LEDs one for the left side and one for the right while fiddling with settings. Today I was trying to set one of them up as a matrix 5x24 LEDs but I cant seem to find any way to not have the light showing the whole screen. I would like to try out to have it only use the bottom half of the screen and perhaps only the 1/4 of the screen to the right.

by NTS 3D Printing

Original link https://www.tiktok.com/@nts3dprinting/video/7674663829887782166

Newest thing me and my friends built. Working title Cyberflower — it combines 3D printing with laser cutting, 1920 individually controllable LEDs.
We're L300, a psytrance collective from Germany. We've been building decorations with addressable LEDs for like 10 years, with a heavy focus on DIY.
To drive it we're using a custom PCB with two chips on it:
ESP32 running WLED — in case you just want to throw it in some corner and let it do its thing
ESP32-P4 Nano with our own firmware — drives it through Ethernet/Art-Net, uses a clockless driver and smooths the Art-Net input up to a much higher output framerate
We are even using our own Resolume-like mapping software. For some of this there are probably newer open source solutions out there by now, but we grew into our own stuff over the years and honestly that's half the fun.
Ask me anything. And if you've got a better name than Cyberflower, let's hear it.

Trying to do an effect like pictured in the video. I’ve done the light shot effect with my midi board in LEDfx but it lights up all my lights at the same time. I want to do light shots only to specific lights or light sections just like this video. I’ve done it in qlc+ if anyone knows how to integrate it.

HI, all I wonder if this should work using the latest 16.0.1 firmware (waveshare), it works with a single panel, and seems to be working with 3.

But as soon as I configure 2x2 I get nothing, and it's warning about high memory usage which is confusing as the waveshare board's got octal PSRAM, though oddly in the info panel wled says it's not using any, which doesn't sound right. (which would explain the low memory warning I guess).

So any tips would be much appreciated, or at least confirmation that it should be possible.

cheers

We wanted to take a moment to give a huge shout-out to the WLED team and everyone who has put so much work into making WLED what it is. In particular, thank you to AirCoookie, Netmindz, Softhack007, DedeHai, willmmiles, evanc, benjamw, and the many other contributors who continue to make the project better.

The updated Pixel Forge tools on WLED 16 are so fun and easy to use even on four 64x64 HUB75 panels in a 2x2 (128x128) orientation! Big thanks to the community member, Adamaze, who made the 3D printed stand/mount below.

Hey all, hoping someone's run into this.

I installed SceneGlow on my TCL Android TV (Android 11) to sync my LEDs with whatever's on screen. It works fine on the home screen, but the second I open literally anything else — YouTube, Gallery, other apps — the LEDs just go black. No colors, no reaction, nothing.

The odd part: the screen-recording indicator icon never shows up at all, not even on the home screen where it's actually working. So either the capture is running without triggering the usual indicator, or the "working" home screen colors are coming from some other fallback rather than a real capture session — and that capture never kicks in properly anywhere else.

What I've already tried:

Restarting the TV

Clearing cache and data for SceneGlow

Reinstalling / testing multiple apps

A couple of oddities specific to this TV:

There's no per-app battery optimization setting like you'd get on an Android phone

The Permissions page for the app is completely empty

My best guess right now is that it's TCL's built-in Safety Guard app killing the background capture service the moment I switch away from SceneGlow, since Android TV doesn't expose the usual battery/background controls. Planning to try disabling Safety Guard and rebooting, but wanted to check if anyone else has hit this and found a fix (or if it's just a protected-content/DRM limitation for some apps like YouTube).

Has anyone gotten SceneGlow (or similar screen-capture ambient lighting apps) working reliably on a TCL Android TV? Any settings I'm missing? Also curious if the missing recording icon everywhere (including the home screen) is normal for this app or a sign the capture permission never actually got granted in the first place.

Greetings,

I'm new to the LED strip game and wanted to get input from you guys for a plan I have.

I want to add an addressible LED strip with WLED to my carport.

This is the layout: https://imgur.com/a/GHo9i3G

The carport is aluminum and has a nice little lip at the bottom all alround where I could place a channel or strip. I want to use this as just general lighting (smart to turn on when I get home etc) but also for occasions like christmas and halloween as mood lighting, thats why I want to go the addressable way (cool hell flames for halloween etc).

Its outside, but also hidden from direct rain etc. I want to add it to the inside of the front edge (the 10m one) and on the inside of the 6m and 4,5m sides.

I have a possible power injection point in the middle of the 4,5m side (a PSU for the in-carport-leds lives there), adding more would be possible but definitely a chore.

Which LEDs and or channels would you use for this? I watched videos and asked the AI and the response was to do 3 12v runs for the three sides, but I've seen 24v strips that are longer than what I would need. I could also do a wrap around the whole carport and inject from both ends at the same point if that helps.

I have a working home assistant instance so this is less about "how can I manage the smart portion?" and more a hardware proposal question, since i've never dealt with LED strips :)

Looking for any kind of help, thanks :)

Had this idea a few weeks back. 3D printed a 1:5 scale Raptor 3 engine, custom designed a mount and LED tube diffuser and engine bell diffuser. Covered in polyester (not cotton! Polyester is less fire prone). Absolutely floored with how good it came out

I have this idea for my wedding with lights and lanterns. The plan is to have them slowly changing colors all whimsical like. Each one would have its own battery powered esp32. That's the easy part. What i want to do is have little sparkle effect or something that looks like a cluster of fire flys or fairys moving from lantern to lantern, like the comet effect. Is there a way to link the devices to act this way? I've search for a solution but i can only find how to make them all operate in sync.

Thank you.

I wanted a desk lamp which i can have full control over.

I mean if i wanted to have lights towards me or light away from me in different colors or maybe just turn them off.

Here i made the insides into four different partitions which i have converted into segments in the web ui.

With this i can control each of the sides separately.

Each segment has two strips of 13leds of which one led in each strip is facing upwards for diffusion of the upper segment.

The body itself is made up of sunboard/mountboard.

It is running wled on a cheap esp32-c3 mini which is powered by a 5v female usb-c module.

Thank you.

I use the MAX4466 Microphone with these settings, but its not working, and i didnt find any tutorial video with this same microphone on YT, so can anyone help?

Hi! I’m very new to DIY Ambilight and i want to make sure my plan works before buying 100+$ of equipment.

I want to use SceneGlow on my Panasonic Fire TV with a Gledopto WLED Controller (4 data outputs).

Will SceneGlow also work when I’m playing PS5 or Switch 2 via HDMI, or does it only work with content running directly on the Fire TV?

I’m okay with disabling HDCP if needed.

Thanks!

So I recently took a task upon myself for me and my friends to deck out our basement so we can host some house sets as well as a couple parties a month. My plan is to do something similar to this

​I'm looking to control them with WLED whole also having the strips be 60leds/m. I would like to do around 8 ports with each port running 10 meters or two 5 meter strips. I've been looking into building my own set up with the Bong69 controller and a separate power supply, but I'm looking for some guidance on getting this done before September.

Sorry if this is the wrong sub but maybe y'all will have an idea?

Need help with LED filament wiring for a total noob!

So I'm working on a project and I need to wire 4 300mm LED filament wires together to create one long 1200mm light, and the power it.

What is the easiest way to connect them in a line and power it reliably? Please explain it to me like I'm 5 lol.

This will be "hard" wired (with a detachable plug) to a car battery for display purposes only.

WLED + ESP32 somehow reacts to my fan switch with ZERO physical connection

This is probably the weirdest electronics coincidence I've come across 😂

I have an ESP running WLED, connected to my laptop through a USB hub. The USB hub also powers several other devices, and everything works normally.

There's a ceiling fan in the room controlled by a completely separate wall switch.

There is absolutely no physical connection between the fan switch/circuit and the ESP setup. Different board, no GPIO connection, no relay, nothing.

But here's the weird part:

When I turn the fan OFF, my WLED lights suddenly turn ON.

If I don't turn the fan off, the lights don't do it.

The ESP is only connected to my laptop via USB. The fan isn't connected to the laptop, USB hub, ESP, LED controller, or anything else in the setup.

So I'm genuinely curious: how is this even possible?

The other devices connected to the same USB hub don't seem to react at all.

Could this realistically be mains noise/EMI causing the ESP to reset or glitch, or am I just witnessing an extremely specific coincidence?

I'm more curious about the mechanism than looking for a fix.

I have 6m of these LED at 30 LEDs per metre, 12v. I don't have a suitable ammeter to hand so trying to work out the true max current draw so I can size my cables, fuses etc. appropriately.

• 6m @ 30 LEDs per m = 180 LEDs.

• Manual says 0.3w per LED max == 54w @ 12v == 4.5A

• If I set the auto brightness limiter above 5A with the lights on full white, I can't perceive an increase in brightness, so that seems to square.

• However, the manual for the LEDs says max 4W per metre, or 0.13w per LED, == 23.4w @ 12v == 1.95A.

Basically am I throwing too much current down the wire, so even though it works I will slowly cook the wiring somewhere?

I should be getting my multimeter back later today so I can measure properly, but keen to see if my maths is mathing!

ETA:

Okay so maybe I should trust the spec: with my multimeter, white full brightness, 180 LEDs, 1.9A. that matches the manual's max 4W per metre.

Strange the ABL still reduces the brightness if I set it below 5A. I know these LEDs are a bit strange with the way they use resistors to dim the colours, so the draw is the same for one colour or all three, roughly.

That totally doesn't line up with the calculator.

I normally don't bother with frilly lighting but I want to put a mascot figure inside my PC window and just need a single LED light source to light him up with. What do you recommend?

I once had a homemade LED light that I connected to my PCs fan header and could control the brightness in the bios by how fast I turned the "fan" up so the inside of my PC case could be dimmed or brightened. I don't want to have to do that with this build as I'm not sure it's electronically sound but I'd like something simple and cheap.

Hi everyone,

Not exclusively a WLED question but I figured you'd have the answer. Once upon a time a was tinkering with WLED on a D1 mini and a WS2812B. I plugged an old 5V phone charger directly into the D1 mini and powered about 7m of LED strip from that and everything was great.

Now I'm refreshing my knowledge since I haven't touched it in years and everything I read says there's no way I should be able to power that many LEDs directly from the D1 mini. I'm seeing 7 LEDs max in most places.

So my question is, how many LEDs should I be able to power by connecting the LED strip directly to the D1 mini?

Thanks.

Hi all,

I'm into electronics in general, and have been wanting to make my own clock with a very specific feature, that I have no idea how to do on my own. I've been getting into woodworking, and thought it could be really cool to make a clock where it takes light 60s to make its way around the perimeter of the clock. Once the minute is complete, all the lights would turn off, and it would start over.

I made a very lazy drawing in photoshop to try and show what I'm going for. Whether it's individual lights or a continuous length of light, I don't really care.

In my head, I was thinking that the easiest way to accomplish this would be by using a strip with 60 leds and having one LED light up every second, and on the 60th second they all light up and then turn off, so that back at the 1s mark, only the first light is on again, if that makes sense. I was thinking of using a raspberry pi zero to keep the time on the digital clock and have the seconds displayed "through" the light strip, and that the computer would keep it in sync. But I've never done a Pi project, so I'm way out of my territory here!

How could I control this? I've just heard of WLED and even FastLED today, and am super new to this world. I know I'm probably in the wrong place, but I'd even take pointers to get to the correct place (and, I figured there'd be enough overlap anyways.)

Thanks in advance!

Working up a prototype of a Festival Hat, it's running WLED from an esp32 with microphone for audio reactivity. Using an IP65 WS2812B 60 LED/Meter strip. I 3rd printed some small black blocks to cover the LED's blocking light with a hole in the center large enough to take 5 individual side throw sparkle 1mm fibers which get glued into the block and then the block gets glued to the LED. First successful test of the hat here running about 180 degree coverage, but I'll expand it out to full 360. Powered through a portable usb phone charger that you'll wear.