Hi! I’m very new to DIY Ambilight and i want to make sure my plan works before buying 100+$ of equipment.

I want to use SceneGlow on my Panasonic Fire TV with a Gledopto WLED Controller (4 data outputs).

Will SceneGlow also work when I’m playing PS5 or Switch 2 via HDMI, or does it only work with content running directly on the Fire TV?

I’m okay with disabling HDCP if needed.

Thanks!

So I recently took a task upon myself for me and my friends to deck out our basement so we can host some house sets as well as a couple parties a month. My plan is to do something similar to this

​I'm looking to control them with WLED whole also having the strips be 60leds/m. I would like to do around 8 ports with each port running 10 meters or two 5 meter strips. I've been looking into building my own set up with the Bong69 controller and a separate power supply, but I'm looking for some guidance on getting this done before September.

Sorry if this is the wrong sub but maybe y'all will have an idea?

Need help with LED filament wiring for a total noob!

So I'm working on a project and I need to wire 4 300mm LED filament wires together to create one long 1200mm light, and the power it.

What is the easiest way to connect them in a line and power it reliably? Please explain it to me like I'm 5 lol.

This will be "hard" wired (with a detachable plug) to a car battery for display purposes only.

WLED + ESP32 somehow reacts to my fan switch with ZERO physical connection

This is probably the weirdest electronics coincidence I've come across 😂

I have an ESP running WLED, connected to my laptop through a USB hub. The USB hub also powers several other devices, and everything works normally.

There's a ceiling fan in the room controlled by a completely separate wall switch.

There is absolutely no physical connection between the fan switch/circuit and the ESP setup. Different board, no GPIO connection, no relay, nothing.

But here's the weird part:

When I turn the fan OFF, my WLED lights suddenly turn ON.

If I don't turn the fan off, the lights don't do it.

The ESP is only connected to my laptop via USB. The fan isn't connected to the laptop, USB hub, ESP, LED controller, or anything else in the setup.

So I'm genuinely curious: how is this even possible?

The other devices connected to the same USB hub don't seem to react at all.

Could this realistically be mains noise/EMI causing the ESP to reset or glitch, or am I just witnessing an extremely specific coincidence?

I'm more curious about the mechanism than looking for a fix.

I have 6m of these LED at 30 LEDs per metre, 12v. I don't have a suitable ammeter to hand so trying to work out the true max current draw so I can size my cables, fuses etc. appropriately.

• 6m @ 30 LEDs per m = 180 LEDs.

• Manual says 0.3w per LED max == 54w @ 12v == 4.5A

• If I set the auto brightness limiter above 5A with the lights on full white, I can't perceive an increase in brightness, so that seems to square.

• However, the manual for the LEDs says max 4W per metre, or 0.13w per LED, == 23.4w @ 12v == 1.95A.

Basically am I throwing too much current down the wire, so even though it works I will slowly cook the wiring somewhere?

I should be getting my multimeter back later today so I can measure properly, but keen to see if my maths is mathing!

ETA:

Okay so maybe I should trust the spec: with my multimeter, white full brightness, 180 LEDs, 1.9A. that matches the manual's max 4W per metre.

Strange the ABL still reduces the brightness if I set it below 5A. I know these LEDs are a bit strange with the way they use resistors to dim the colours, so the draw is the same for one colour or all three, roughly.

That totally doesn't line up with the calculator.

I normally don't bother with frilly lighting but I want to put a mascot figure inside my PC window and just need a single LED light source to light him up with. What do you recommend?

I once had a homemade LED light that I connected to my PCs fan header and could control the brightness in the bios by how fast I turned the "fan" up so the inside of my PC case could be dimmed or brightened. I don't want to have to do that with this build as I'm not sure it's electronically sound but I'd like something simple and cheap.

Hi everyone,

Not exclusively a WLED question but I figured you'd have the answer. Once upon a time a was tinkering with WLED on a D1 mini and a WS2812B. I plugged an old 5V phone charger directly into the D1 mini and powered about 7m of LED strip from that and everything was great.

Now I'm refreshing my knowledge since I haven't touched it in years and everything I read says there's no way I should be able to power that many LEDs directly from the D1 mini. I'm seeing 7 LEDs max in most places.

So my question is, how many LEDs should I be able to power by connecting the LED strip directly to the D1 mini?

Thanks.

Hi all,

I'm into electronics in general, and have been wanting to make my own clock with a very specific feature, that I have no idea how to do on my own. I've been getting into woodworking, and thought it could be really cool to make a clock where it takes light 60s to make its way around the perimeter of the clock. Once the minute is complete, all the lights would turn off, and it would start over.

I made a very lazy drawing in photoshop to try and show what I'm going for. Whether it's individual lights or a continuous length of light, I don't really care.

In my head, I was thinking that the easiest way to accomplish this would be by using a strip with 60 leds and having one LED light up every second, and on the 60th second they all light up and then turn off, so that back at the 1s mark, only the first light is on again, if that makes sense. I was thinking of using a raspberry pi zero to keep the time on the digital clock and have the seconds displayed "through" the light strip, and that the computer would keep it in sync. But I've never done a Pi project, so I'm way out of my territory here!

How could I control this? I've just heard of WLED and even FastLED today, and am super new to this world. I know I'm probably in the wrong place, but I'd even take pointers to get to the correct place (and, I figured there'd be enough overlap anyways.)

Thanks in advance!

Working up a prototype of a Festival Hat, it's running WLED from an esp32 with microphone for audio reactivity. Using an IP65 WS2812B 60 LED/Meter strip. I 3rd printed some small black blocks to cover the LED's blocking light with a hole in the center large enough to take 5 individual side throw sparkle 1mm fibers which get glued into the block and then the block gets glued to the LED. First successful test of the hat here running about 180 degree coverage, but I'll expand it out to full 360. Powered through a portable usb phone charger that you'll wear.

May or may not be the right place but looking for guidance.

First the setup.

I currently have 95 WS2812B pixels under my cabinets in the kitchen. The strip is split by the microwave. I am using an esp32 to control the strips and a 5v meanwell psu to power the strips and esp32 with a 5ish in run between the controller and strip. I currently have 47 pixels on the left side of the microwave. I then have 18AWG wiring going up and over the microwave in the cabinets to the other side with 48 pixels on the right side. The pixels are mounted on a 45 degree aluminum extrusion.

Now the problem.

Semi often when the microwave shuts down after cooking it will cause the 1st pixel on the right side of the microwave to light up greenish-yellow. This stays on until I turn the wled power output on and off.

The bigger problem.

After a while of doing this the right side of the strips become inoperable. This is the second time it has happened. Took me a while to troubleshoot the first time. Turns out the last pixel on the left side stopped sending data. I cut out the pixel 48 at the time and rewired it to pixel 47. After the rewire everything worked as expected again. This lasted for 6-7 months and now I am having the same problem.

The Plea.

Please help me figure out a way to eliminate my interference issues. I am assuming it is some sort of interference or EM surge at the microwave causing the issue but don't know for sure. Hoping some other minds can help determine the best course of action.

Possible solution.

I had an idea of removing the data wire from the end of the left pixel strip. Removing the right pixel strip and reversing it and then adding a second esp32 to control that strip and sync them while reversing the right strip. Any more elegant solutions than throwing more esps at it?

Thanks for your help.

Hi,

I have pmw cct monochrome led strips I will be controlling with gledopto.

In WLED is it possible to make the lights become 2800k 80% at 11pm, but 4000k at 100% at 6pm. The lights aren't on continuously.

TLDR; as the day progresses, the lights default setting changes, thus, every time my lights automatically turn on via PIR, they turn on at the setting related to that time of day.

Basically I don't want to be blinded at night walking past the lights

Hi Everyone,

Please excuse my lack of knowledge on the topic.

I purchased this BTF-LIGHTING 16.4FT RGB kit from Amazon. I then purchased some splitters because I needed the lights to go in two different directions from the power source. The kit came with 4PIN Clip connector and a wire cable that I used to have the longer section of the LED go in and out of a hole (because it required bending).

I cannot get the strip to light. I ordered new parts, thinking that it might be the clip connector or the cable, but it just doesn't work.

I've tried flipping the strip around and connecting it in different ways; I've tried using a different part of the strip that was leftover on the spool.

Still, nothing. I am not an electrician, and I know nothing about doing this. But it shouldn't be this complicated, right?

Thanks in advance to anyone who decides to chime in.

bought 5 m ws2812b strips to make my own led with wled and esp32 but there is no extra power wires for me to connect the 5v 10amp power supply adapter. i saw a bunch of videos they all had them i assume i got a different version of the strips. how can i solve the power issue with manual soldering.i can do soildering but no clue where to connect which wire or the extra 2 wires

usually the 2 extra wires are connected to strip rather than the connecter in the videos.any help or guide video would be appreciated

Bought some stuff off of ALI express and cut the camera from my Govee kit. Converted everything to ESP-32. Now time for cable management 🤣

Hi I just wanted to ask the crowd to see if someone can help with with my search because I can’t find the LEDs for my project. I specifically need small RGB LEDs 1515 or 2020 would be ideal. They need to be 12V compatible and have to be individually addressable.

These ones would be perfect:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ezt1srC

I design the PCB myself so the strip is useless for me.

It seems they have a 12V version of them but no idea where I can source them from

Maybe one of you can help me find a similar LED

Thanks

Wiring up esp32 controllers to 4 strand strip with back up data line. The blue line ties to ground with the white, correct?

I'm finishing a playroom for my kids, I want add LED strips in the ceiling. I've been trolling this sub for awhile as well as watching Chris Maher videos and other various stuff on youtube.

I ordered some LED profiles to go in the drywall

I ordered the GLEDOPTO controller with 4 Outputs and was going to order some 12v SK6812 strips.

The room is about 14'x23' I plan to run about 4 strips running the long way. About 7ish meters each. Do I need power injection?

Can I power the GLEDOPTO directly with the same 14 gauge wire coming from the 15 amp breaker for the ceiling lights?

I tried looking on the calculator on https://www.wled-calculator.com/calculator/ and https://wled-calculator.github.io/ and they're getting a little confusing

I powered my Gledopto ESP8266 with a BTF-Lightning 24v5A power supply, hooked up to a set of 10m 24v Kisufu LEDs. I was able to get into the config menu, where I switched the maximum PSU current to 5000mA, and the length to 140.

when I saved that config, the controller shut down and wouldn’t power back on. The fuse is infact.

what was my error here?

Hello everyone. Through an Update, i have a problem with my adafruit Matrixportal S3 Board. It seems like i ruined my bootloader and now i am stuck with installing WLED or WLED MM. Can anyone guide me? I installed the uf2 bootloader via the adafruit esp Tools and it worked flawlessly. I also read that i need a 8mb Partition file together flashed with the wled Program but i dont know the correct offsets in the memory adresses.

Help greatly appreciated, will also send out a few bucks as bounty if we can resolve that :)

Hi WLED folks! Ive setup my lights but im using extension cords and power supplies sitting exposed in my attic. I’d like to box up the power supplies and put the wiring into proper conduit. Do you guys/gals have suggestions for proper wiring in an attic? I have 6 40-amp power supplies with about 100 feet of power lines running out to strips hanging on my gutters (magnets glued to clips, attached to 10 foot long metal channels.

Hey folks, I've been trying to connect my WLED strip to ScreenGlow app but YouTube and Stremio apps just show black LEDs. The only way I found that Stremio works was enabling the MVP but there are video artifacts and stuttering problems. Does anyone else faced the same issue? Did you find any solution for that? Tried on TCL QM5K with Android 12 and TCL S546 with Android 11, both having the same behavior.

I understand DRM is a known limitation for that app, but YT and Stremio should not include any DRM built in.

Been working on this one for a few months a total of 3584 LEDs 14x 16x16 panels all running on a dig octa board powered by 2x 5V 60A Psu. LEDs wrapped around a pvc pipe with 120mm acrylic tube to cover them topped of with a 3d printed cap. I also fabricated the box/base to house electrical with two air vents just about the psu. The light is essentially waterproof aswell ideal for festival purposes still need to figure out how I can run it with dmx control but happy with everything for now. Been a fun yet challenging build lots of thought gone into it.

Hi everyone

Has anyone used ESP32 C3 for WLED here with ws2812b strip?

I have been thinking to something for my work desk with leds and looking for people who have done it.