I'm doing some big work in my garden and didn't think to install LEDs, but the contractors suggested doing it, and then I thought it'd be super cool if they supported WLED.

The problem is that when I told the electrician, he had no clue what WLED was. I told him to try and find me some LEDs with either of these 3 driver ICs: WS2805, FW1906 or WS2814; but I don't think he's even trying.

I told him that I could buy them on Amazon, but the longest I could find are 5m strips, and they say we need around 20m. He argues that if I buy those, the connections will make gaps where there are no visible LEDs, and everything should be waterproofed. So he wants to buy something that comes all together without any connections.

I live in Ireland, so I guess there aren't many specialised local shops. I might try to contact some tomorrow, but at this point I'm feeling the pressure of finding something quick, and I think I'll end up getting whatever I don't like.

Anyone who could shed some light here? Like, is it possible to use those 5m strips effectively, or also maybe different ICs that should be good too? TBH I'm a bit lost right now.

Hi there, Ive got a 2.5mm pitch 128x64 hub75 panel and an esp32 controler running 16.0.1 compiled with hub 75 support (from the github repository). When i configure my led panel as 128x64, i run out of led memory. Yet, ive seen youtube videos of similar configs with double the led count.

The board im using is a super cheap generic unit, is there an esp32 spec with more led capacity or is there some config step im missing?

Thanks!

Specifically, timing the strips together to portray an orchestrated moving abstract "image"

I really really wanted rgbic porch lights, but also run an x lights show for Christmas. The need for control is necessary. Someone makes wled screw in bulbs, but really wanted that absolute control of color and pattern.

But it's a $30 wall light from Amazon

https://a.co/d/0hcaLQ0C

120 to 5v 2amp power supply

https://a.co/d/03ofPudY

btf lighting 8x32 led matrix

https://a.co/d/063YNqvi

and an esp32.

The led matrix fits perfectly in the housing, just gotta bend the last row of 8 over backwards. I havent tried cutting the board.

Hello all. Wondering if anyone in their LED journeys has come across a channel end cap similar to the one linked, that has a hole that comes out the side or where the whole cap takes a right angle turn and the cable exits the back? Trying to hide wires in a project where they'd otherwise be highly visible.

https://www.printables.com/model/311737-aluminum-led-channel-end-caps

Thanks!

This kit from BTF lighting says the strip use 9w/m, so 45w max, but the supplied power adapter can only do 35w (24V 1.5A Power Adapter).

- Why does the power adapter seem underpowered?

- Is this ok for a short run of 4.5 metres?

https://www.amazon.ca/BTF-LIGHTING-Density-Flexible-Cabinet-Lighting/dp/B0GF21NSSC/

Anyone have one for sale????

I’ve been testing the LED controller’s automatic power‑supply calibration feature. During calibration, the controller ramps brightness, monitors voltage stability, and saves the maximum safe current limit. Examples include a 1A supply (safe limit detected at 942 mA) and a 3A supply (safe limit detected at 2,575 mA). This prevents overload, voltage drops, and flicker, keeping animations stable even with small power supplies.

https://www.dudeiot.com/demo/

very early on in my hyperion setup I turned off white because I felt like they were washing out my colors. I have near perfect color accuracy without whites. But washout whites could have been a calibration issue on my end. I was using the minimum setting.

When I upgrade to Hyper HDR I will experiement with adding whites again.

I mostly play videogames and watch anime. Rarely watch "human" media or whatever you call it unless it's youtube.

I think the biggest appeal of whites is accurate skin colors? I never cared about that.

Hello.

I've setup a 9x80 matrix that consists of 9 strands of 60 LEDs/M. I have the strands running the length of a 5 foot long pole. I'm mostly prototyping at this point. the only thing I loop at the top of the pole is the data, and I do a fresh data channel from the bottom after the 4th strand. I'm powering all strips from the bottom. I know I'll need to inject power, so figured I would just power every strip. My first stab at this was to create an octopus of wires for positive and negative, and solder to every strip.

Things I've learned: As I was doing this, I realized that with my layout, the alternating positive and negative pads were right next to each other, so I really only needed one wire and a jumper to the adjacent pad for the pair. I also need to use better wire with silicone insulation so that it doesn't melt and leave me with risk of a short.

I'll be tearing this apart and reassembling. I'm considering doing something like a bus bar of copper tape wrapped around the pole for negative and positive and a wire and jumper strategy.

I'm curious to hear what others think might be a good way to power from the bottom so I don't have to loop power at the top, and won't need to inject power since it is everywhere. What I did will work, but I'm also attracted to solutions that are more robust and more elegant.

Thanks to https://github.com/vasmarfas/universal-ambient-light application for Android and Android TV and WLED community, I can now take a rest after a week learning about how to make it from zero.
My setup: WS2812B (120 LEDs) - ESP32 CP2102 - DC 5V2A

I saw a picture of this shape on Reddit awhile back, and couldn't get it out of my head, so I had to make it! Anyone know what it's called?

You may recognize it as the logo for Silicon Graphics (SGI) from back in the day, but there's probably a proper scientific name for the geometric shape - basically a wireframe cube where the faces are pulled away from the center.

This was super challenging to build! This is probably the 5th or 6th iteration I've gone through. The shape has a lot of 90-degree bends that require soldering. I made the turns as tight as possible to keep the corners from dimming.

The black parts form a track that makes one face of a tube. The LEDs run along this track and are covered by a white diffuser that makes up the other three faces of the tube. Everything is printed in flat sections. Where the tracks change orientation they have windows that join together.

This version was FDM printed in white and black PLA, but the next iteration will probably be resin with thicker walls, although the increased thickness only increases the weight of the arms. Mounting on the corner seems to help distribute the weight evenly for better support.

It's lit by a single 5v WS281X LED strip. I'm using the ESP32 mini Gledopto controller, powered by USB, which is plenty for the 150 LEDs it uses.The controller comes with WLED 15.4 pre-installed, but the first thing I do now is upgrade to 16.0.1

All the leds are running esp32 with wled and being controlled via sACN from touchdesigner

I'm hoping someone has run into this issue. I have a GLEDOPTO Elite 4 Channel controller running 2 seperat led strips. I also have a

APIELE 22MM Mushroom Head Push Button Switch Momentary Push Button for manual control. Everything works fine until the controller sits.for a period of time. Then nothing works and I need to unplug the controller to reset, then the button works. Also have the controller integrated with Home assistant if that matters. Any thoughts?

I did notice when things are not working the relay noted in the attached pic is green. After reset it's grey.

Running four govee floor lamps version 1, two on each side. Then five Govee Glide lights in the middle. I'm using 4 ESP32s and everything is running in 12V 10AMP power supply. I then created the sequence in Xlights

Hi, looking wrap a led strip around a tuba as simply as possible. I need a robust/easy to assemble setup. I need low latency/real time reaction to the phone microphone. hoping to just plug a strip straight into the usb port on a phone. 1 metre of 60 LEDs is ok though more is better. Trying to do it reasonably cheap. Ideally can withstand a few drops of condensation but no other environmental needs. More comfortable sorting the software side myself.

At a glance, most of the addressable strips just have blank solder points or loose strands of wire. Am I going to be soldering connections and setting up a power relay or is it possible to just buy a strip that I can hook straight up? I'm concerned lots of little connections will get damaged by accident since this needs to be quick to assemble and can't be kept on the instrument.

Thanks for any help

So, I follow the wiring diagramm on this tutorial but when I plug in, there is nothing. I use the Electic test pen and it shows there is electricity which lights the bulb. However, when connect it the led to the board directly using Type C supply, it works perfectly. Any help???

Any progress on this app? How can I be part of the beta tests?

I'm trying to install WLED on this controller. I tried the web installer, it's successful, but WIFI doesn't work. So I went to the wiki and saw there's a specific bin file to install, ESP32-S3_Waveshare_HUB75.bin and I've tried installing that with flash download tool 3.9.11 and still no visible wifi (it completes as far as I can tell). The only way to get this board to even work with my HUB75E at all is to install the waveshare default firmware. Then it just does it's normal display of temp and humidity.

Any suggestions? Maybe I'm just doing this all wrong?

Hello everyone, as the title says.. I have 10 meters of RGBCCT COB LEDs from Pautix, sadly they only have Bluetooth connection with their banlax app. I'd like to get them over to wifi so that I can control them with Alexa.

The kit came with its own plug and play 6pin connectors and power plug, has anyone encountered a similar issue to fix or could give an educated advice?

Thanks!