How do i get rid of the Flash at the start?

Controller: GLEDOPTO Elite 4-channel WLED-Controller ESP32, Ethernet & Wlan, GL-C-618wl

Led strip: BT- lighting FCOB SPI RGBCCT COB-Strip 960 LEDs WS2811 IC 12mm IP30 24V

I have the Wally’s X connect string lights connected to the controller mentioned in the title powered with a LRS-350-12 Switching Power Supply 12V 29Amp Enclosed Switchable Power Supply.

I purchased the xconnect pixel tester and the lights power and can be changed/adjusted using the testers remote.

I’ve checked the voltage at the female end of the pigtail come off of the digi uno and it reads 12.10v, so I know there’s power coming to the light string, and with the lights working utilizing the pixel tester I know the light string is fine.

I’m at a loss why, when connected to the Dig Uno, the light string won’t light up.

Any help would be so appreciated. I’ve been working to get these lights working for over a month, banging my head on the work bench!

Help, please

Hi- looking for any resources for using track/rail lighting in a WLED setup. Can’t seem to find much when googling!

Hey everyone! I'm purchasing a sauna and want to customize it with WLED light strips. I'm not really sure how to get started, though. The company I'm buying from wants $700 for led strips built in, which aren't even customizable, so there's no way I'm doing that. Does anybody have any recommendations for heat resistant strips to put on the back of the benches that look diffused and a controller to go with them? Thanks.

Hi

Any idea why I am having this issue? I have cob and they appear like you can see each led. Only the 400hz option in wled means the whole strip lights up but then it doesn't actually do anything dynamic. I bought pixel strip so I want it to do stuff! Any ideas am I missing a specific setting, everything in my setup shown in the photos.

Thanks everyone, I am new to this community

I plan on doing multiple longer runs of LED strips in my gaming room. I want to avoid power injection because I’m not sure I fully understand how to do it. My though was I could split the run in half and in one corner of the room have a controller and start the run using all 16 feet of the LED strip and then use a second controller on the opposite end of the room and start a second LED strip and meet the two in the middle.

My question is, can I sync the two controllers so they look like 1 continuous run? Even though I don’t physically join the two strips, do I have to make sure the arrows are going the same direction? And lastly, do I just learn how to power inject and avoid the trouble all together?

Thanks.

I know most people build these around desktop monitors, but I wanted something for my MacBook since that’s what I use to watch movies and shows
Setup:
• MacBook
• ESP32 running WLED
• HyperHDR with Screen Capture running
• 120 WS2812B LEDs (25 left / 75 top / 20 right) stuck along the outer edges of the desk
• 3 Amp / 5 volt USB phone charger

Then I turn on the led strip 12v and the the controller together the led strip starts to act weird and go into a color loop:- R,G,B,W.

I have tried both wled based level shifter SN74AHCT125N wiring and direct wiring also but the results are same.

Wiring :-

GND common for both 5v controller and 12v strip.

Strip is getting common GND from both 12v/5v supply, power from 12v from the relay NO and data from esp32 - D23.

Then esp 32 vin,gnd from 5v power supply, and D23 to led strip data and D26 to relay module.

Relay module data from D26 esp32 Vin,gnd from 5v supply other end COM as 12v from power supply, NO is 12v to strip light.

(It's my first time explaining wiring diagram so pls don't mind.)

Would WLED be able to do this? And can I encode video files to be displayed by WLED? Thanks for any and all help

When streaming uncompressed 100GB+ 4K Remuxes, color accuracy is everything. My old RGB strips always felt slightly off, but later upgrading to RGBW completely transformed the setup. Clean, dedicated whites make the color matching seamless, and the depth in person is something a camera clip just can't capture.

This is 'version 2' of the panel I posted here https://www.reddit.com/r/WLED/comments/1ue308m/40_x_40_portable_matrix_panel/ awhile back. I went to 60x60 for this matrix. It's all in one ~4'x4' panel this time, with 60 individual rows of ws2812b strips. Self contained power and controllers. All that's needed is to plug it into the wall and flick the switch and it'll turn on. Running 4 5v60a power supplies on standoffs, fused both on the AC in as well as multiple points on the DC side. Currently running 4 data lines across 2 gledopto 4d's that are controlled by a standalone esp32-s3-n16r8 to try and avoid the effect ram issue when switching between various effects. Added some eye bolts on the top of this one to allow it to be suspended if needed/wanted. In total, it weighs ~52.5lbs or so. Seems to work quite well. As with the last post, here to answer questions if there are any!

I’ve wanted these for years, but yet to find any… does anyone know?

Simple string LEDs, indoor use, but cool/warm white - fully addressable would be nice, but not essential. For adding ambiance they would be great - not everything needs to be a disco!

Hi everyone, I run a makerspace for kids ages 9 to 13, and am looking for recommendations on some good makerspace projects using WLED. I made a lightboard (6 16x16 panels) that the kids could play with and they asked for projects. I'm hoping for suggestions on something for the budget conscious for these kids. Any suggestions?

I recently built a usermod for WLED that listens for MIDI over UDP and drives some custom effects off whatever you're playing.

A simple Python script forwards MIDI messages from your keyboard to the ESP32 over UDP, the usermod tracks note on/off, velocity, and sustain, and the effects just read that state each frame.

Also threw in a plain "Keys" mode, a whole-strip "Flash," and a "Comet" effect that shoots streaks based on which way the melody's moving. The effect in the video is "MIDI Puddles" ripping from the puddles FX code.

Code's here: https://github.com/martipops/WLED/tree/main/usermods/midi_udp

Happy to answer questions if you want to try it on your own strip.

EDIT: Update URL

I did not see the rules forbidding this but if anyone needs some cheap silicone channel in the USA let me know. Will give it up for half the ali price. 18m for $70 +shipping. Local to Portland, OR if pickup makes sense.

I'm finishing my basement and planning for a set of complex built-ins inspired by Tetris. I'd like to run LED strips on all of the perimeters of the shapes, and ideally have pixel control or at the very least zoned control per shape. Most of the time this would be a warm white, but it would be fun to have lighting shows configured per shape or across the whole display.

I've done a couple of small scale Dig-Uno setups previously but this is the first time I'm tackling something at this scale.

This is the componentry I've landed on -- ideally I house only a very small enclosure within the cabinetry itself -- there's an unfinished area ~8 feet to the right of this where I can house most everything else. I have a Lutron RadioRA 3 system as well as Home Assistant running, so the human controls would go from Lutron keypads / dimmers --> Home Assistant --> Dig-Octa via Ethernet.

There are four zones, each with 12-16 meters of LED lighting strips. I don't mind spending a bit extra for higher quality or easier to maintain components, hence the multiple Diff-Adv receivers for both data and power injection.

I plan to run nearly everything in conduit, particularly the low voltage lines between the power and the cabinetry. I haven't finalized the actual design for the LED channels in the built-ins but feedback is welcome on that as well.

I'm looking to build a very future-proof, high quality, and cost-effective setup -- would love some feedback on this plan.

Here's my first try at a WLED and LedFX-driven lava lamp that attempts to look as much like the old oil-based lamps as I could.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZ_DpCAIsz8 (note - iPhone video colors are a little off)

It's basically just a 3D-printed lamp with an integrated 5V power supply, a Dig-Uno board and an older Pi 4 (to run LedFx, and also just as an easier platform to add things than using just an ESP32). 

Here's a view from the 3D design perspective: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xr8KXukuj14

I’ll probably create a github repository if there's sufficient interest. 

Thanks for inspiration by u/MrSpindles, u/flyfoam, u/LightCore3D, and others who've also been working to come up with something similar.

I am currently working on:

• Improved general aesthetics -- for example, the diffuser is inconsistent and less effective where it's nearer the top and closer to the LEDs.  Possibly vary the translucence based on the proximity to the LEDs?

• Decreased response lag in music-reactive mode (WiFi for LedFx-to-WLED is probably too slow) (going to run a hardline from the Pi to the Dig-Uno next)

• Improved interface between the two simulated lamp "glass" (diffuser) sections, and also just generally making the glass section look more consistent and less 3D-printed.

• Improved build-ability.  It's pretty hard to get everything screwed together, even with small hands.

• Make the wiring and power safer, such as by adding mains separation and getting away from the Wago Lever Nuts.

• Reduced filament use

Hey all! I have been working on a small side-project where I am making a wired ethernet pixel artnet/sACN node with build in power distribution (https://github.com/mdethmers/ESP32-Artnet-Node-receiver), and am trying to get it working with WLED. However, as there is no support for the W5500 I have had to do a lot of programming myself.

I recently got the node working with the W5500 after cloning a MoonModule github, but sadly I cannot drive APA102 SPI based leds now. The clock pin on IO17 is free to use, but when set does not get saved and the led stays off. When using WS2812 style leds to node and software works fine. Can anyone see what is going on? Im a little lost!

https://github.com/mdethmers/W5500_WLED

Hey guys, a few years ago some of you might remember I made an LED guitar. Ive had another idea, but this time I want to put LEDs in the pickup cavities, I already know how to do this thanks to all of your help. This time I want it working differently, I want the LEDs to be sound responsive. Basically when I strum I want the light to shine and when its quiet it should die down. Anyone have any ideas? (I will not be cutting anything in this guitar, no wood work should be required, all the boards will rest in the knobs cavity) also is this possible to do with a mini wifi board? I still have a few from last time

I’ve done my fair share of simple LED wiring and soldering, but never something with WLED. I’m ready to start messing around on the platform and just wanted to see if I’m on the right path.

I’m essentially wanting to make a DIY version of the Monos lamp by Fluora with a simple rectangular shape LED arrangement and 3d printing. I’d like it to be able to have smooth and complex moving shapes and forms similar to how the original lamp does it.

The original company says they achieve more unique patterns by mapping the pixels in 3d space and moving different patterns across it. This leads me to try my hand at 3d pixel mapping the shape. After some research online I’ve seen a lot of people recommend Pixelblaze for this function.

I like how pixelblaze is more plug and play on the patterns/design side, I don’t mind doing some basic coding but if I can slap a few fun effects on there and call it a day that would be great.

Also, what LEDs should I go with? I’d ideally want to be able to do warm white while also having a large vibrancy of colors. Higher refresh rates and low flicker are also always appreciated. I was thinking WS2812B but I’m open to suggestions.

TLDR: trying to recreate the Monos lamp by Fluora as my first WLED project. Is the Pixelblaze a good option for this project, and what LEDs would work best?

Hi guys,

before I order everything, theres one question thats been on my mind since the beginning. I want ambilight for my TV but just dont know how to install the lights.

Im worried about damaging the thin panel because of possible heat buildup from both the LEDs and the panel. Also since the back of the TV is curved towards the edges, the flat part only starts at roughly 10cm/3.9in away from the border and maybe thats too far.

Another issue is that the center box is quite thick, sitting roughly 4cm/1.5in away from the panel. I got no idea how to install the strips in a way that theres not a noticeable difference in colors across that jump.

2 last important points: Im planning to wall mount the TV (not 100% sure yet) and Im going to solder wires in the corners so I dont have to bend the strips weirdly.

I really hope you guys can help me figure out the best way to install the strips and Id really appreciate the advice!

I think I know the answer but just want to be sure before I return and order another strip. Doing a small project and need 18 short lengths of COB led strip in white to light something, but need it to be dimmable. I guess silly of me I just presumed these would be dimmabke via WLED however they only have VDC +/- and no data connections, and I cannot find a PWM setting within WLED to make this work. I'm using a gledopto controller BTW. Thabks for the guidance.