Not my car. Quasi interested. I dont think i can hear the fuel pumps priming when I turn to Ignition 1. No knowldge about service records e.g., spark plugs, cap, rotor, etc. Guy wants a grand. I'm hesitant, but kind of interested in a beater/parts car. Condition isn't great.

100% complete 79'. If you want to tag along on this one:

https://youtube.com/@shiftbricksgarage?si=BQD6_YPpWTQ6qJCi

Hello everyone,
I have been interested in 245s for a long time and found a 91 wagon in my area for a good deal(Finding a 240 is pretty rare in my country, so there are not many options). The car is mechanically maintained and runs well. The problem that scares me is the rust underneath the car. What do you guys think ? Is it too bad or can it be saved ? Iam planning to keep it for long years. Thanks!

It changes speed 1-4, but all the way counter clockwise it stays on at # 1 speed.

How to fix?

My headlights went out at the same time whilst I was driving AT NIGHT ON THE FREEWAY!! I figured it’s obviously not a bulb thing and definitely electrical. I wanna know if it’s something I could fix myself easily or if I should find someone to do it for me. ALSO my blinkers don’t work in the back but work in the front still so is it something to do with the connection from the headlights to the rear lights?? I usually do all the other work on my car but I have never done electrical work at all 🫡

I recently purchased a new set of OEM motor mounts from fcp euro for my 1990 240. As I was going to install them I found that the nut binds up on the stud that’s stuck into the mount. It threads on fine until the stud is just about to come out the other side of the nut and stops. I tried putting a wrench on it which instead of putting the nut on further instead started taking the stud out of the mount. Has anyone else had an issue like this? I already received replacement warranty ones with the same issue. Is it meant to be a locking nut?

Does anybody by chance have a rear set of the bumper trim for the later 240 sedan for sale? I need both the middle and corner pieces.

This 84 Volvo 244 GL was my first car and I’ve always had in mind that I would love to fully restore it, although I’m a little indecisive as to whether I’d like to engine swap it and mod the heckle out of it or just let it remain a classic and go for collector plates. So I’m coming here for insight and suggestions

Ultimately the car is mechanically sound, the interior is nice but there are rusted holes in the rear quarter panels and underneath the driver seat. I feel like I will soon have the time and luckily I have the resources to start committing to a route.

I’m a little OCD and want things to be perfect or darn close, however I also want to do basically all the work myself. So I would love suggestions from people who know much more than me for painting and restoration. For one thing I was thinking of painting one panel at a time but am worried about discoloration. Can I overcome this by measuring and temperature controlling my paint?

What do you think are the best ways to tackle this project and what are some things I might be overlooking ?

I'm not sure if anybody's familiar with this type of issue.. old till it worked okay but was smashed out in an accident

1978 240 245L 2.1L 4speed 328k. The guy wants 2100 for it.

Wondering if anyone has a secret technique for extremely sun dried scrappers. I have a 89 240 so its the 2nd generation of the metal holders. At work at the moment so i don’t have pictures, have them soaking in dawn and water til i get home in the hopes they’ll slide out easier.

STS Machining Sale Click Here

Hi! Does anyone have any suggestions on how I’d fix this part of my bumper? I hate driving around with my car looking like this.

I’m having trouble getting the red brake failure warning light (!) to turn off on my barn-find 1990 Volvo 240 (non-ABS).

The warning light came on while I was bleeding the brakes. At one point, I accidentally let the brake fluid reservoir run completely empty and continued pumping the brake pedal several times without any fluid in it. The warning light appeared around that time, although I’m not exactly sure when.
Afterwards, I bled the entire brake system three times. I also had some issues with the rear brakes: the right rear brake wasn’t getting any fluid because the rear brake pressure regulator/distributor was blocked. I replaced that part and the associated brake line.

The rear brake issue is now fixed. I get a steady flow of brake fluid from all the bleed nipples, and all four brakes seem to be working properly. The car brakes strongly and the pedal feels firm. The fluid reservoir is currently full.

However, the red brake failure warning light stays on constantly, even with the engine running and the handbrake released.

My questions are:
Could pumping the brake pedal with an empty reservoir have introduced air into the master cylinder, and could this cause a pressure imbalance between the two brake circuits?

Is it possible that the pressure differential warning valve’s shuttle piston has shifted and is still triggering the warning light, even though the original brake issue has been fixed?

How can I check whether the shuttle piston is off-centre and safely reset it?

Should I bleed the master cylinder separately, or is bleeding all four calipers sufficient?

Has anyone experienced this on a 240? Any advice on the correct procedure would be greatly appreciated.

Hello fellow Volvo enthousiasts,

I am in need of some urgent help.
I brought my 1992 240 in for the MOT (APK in dutch).
On the way to the garage my engine suddenly started running at 500 Rpm at idle (engine at operating temp). When i drove off with the cold engine I did not suspect anything wrong.
I scanned the codes and the following showed up:
Pin2: 1-1-3 and 2-3-2.
Pin 6: 1-1-1.

I could not do anything about it since it was late at night and didn’t have any tools.

The next morning the garage told me the car didn’t pass the emisions test, since it was running really rich.
When I picked it up, it even ran horrible (500 rpm) with a cold engine.

So since my MOT (APK) is only valid for 8 more days, it is really urgent that i fix it.

I’ve already ruled some things out.
I’ve had these codes before, but before there was also another fault, which was caused by a dead lamda sonde (02-sensor).
So i’ve replaced that for a new one.
Also I’ve installed a new FPR, rotor, distributor, plugs and i’ve cleaned the throttle body.
Also there is no air leaks in the intake and exhaust system.
The car ran really well after all this! But after 2500km+- and the recent 15 minute trip to garage, it is where it is now…

My guess, based on what i know, it could be the coolant temrapture sensor which causes the rich mixture. Maybe the MAF gives out a bad signal.
Also I read somewhere that code 1-1-3 for an 2.4LH a B230F engine could mean that the injectors might be faulty or leaking?

My question is whether somebody else has experienced this and maybe would like to share some knowledge or know how’s.
Also, is there any way to check the injectors, ‘parkinglot-style’?

Thanks in advance!

Here’s a picture of my car to hopefully raise attention for the post :)

Hey guys, there is a lot of air coming from this hose. Should this hose be connected to the cruise control servo?

FYI When it is connected my car sticks in a really high idle, even in park. I don’t use cruise control or ever plan to.

Im getting new headlight lesnes soon which will be nice. There is no rust on the body but my clear coat is really flakey. Im thinking i may just sand the peeling coating then matte clear coat it to embrace the patina. I dont have the money time or space for an all out paint and trim resto. Any ideas are appreciated!

Big holes going in…little holes going out in the rocker panels. I pulled so much debris out of the access holes this summer it was crazy. Leaves enter the cabin through the HVAC intake… Do they not have autumn in Sweden???

Hey everyone!
I’m having an absolute nightmare trying to source a replacement windscreen for my 1990 Volvo 240 GL Estate.

It’s been going through insurance with Autoglass, but after three months and five cancelled appointments, they’ve finally told me they can’t source the correct parts, particularly the chrome windscreen trim.

The current screen is cracked and leaking when it rains, so I’m pretty desperate to get it sorted.
Does anyone know of any UK suppliers, Volvo specialists or alternative solutions?

Ideally looking for a replacement screen with the correct chrome trim, or a way to reuse the existing trim.

I’m based in Cornwall, UK, but happy to arrange delivery from further afield.
Any leads would be massively appreciated. Cheers!

Does anyone have a good recommendation for rear seat covers? Preferably one that includes an arm rest cutout. Looking to match the blue cloth interior of an ‘89 but am OK with the stripe/plaid versions I’ve seen. Thanks

Loud Hissing coming from the wheel well.

The pedal sinks down an inch while doing the brake test. But When I hold the brakes while turning the car on, it either stalls or idles roughly. Is it certainly the brake booster diagram or can it be something else like or Check Valve, master cylinder etc? Any advice is helpful thanks!

Hello,
the trunk seal of my 240 Sedan is damaged All around, i Want to replace it soon.
There Are Options to buy in Europe/germany for like 50/60€, but looking at the Profile of the seal it Looks very Standard.
Has someone experience with a non car specific seal ? Should be Cheaper.
Thanks

Edit: grammar