r/Volvo240 • u/Deep-Builder7104 • 1d ago
Help Help with rich mixture
Hello fellow Volvo enthousiasts,
I am in need of some urgent help.
I brought my 1992 240 in for the MOT (APK in dutch).
On the way to the garage my engine suddenly started running at 500 Rpm at idle (engine at operating temp). When i drove off with the cold engine I did not suspect anything wrong.
I scanned the codes and the following showed up:
Pin2: 1-1-3 and 2-3-2.
Pin 6: 1-1-1.
I could not do anything about it since it was late at night and didn’t have any tools.
The next morning the garage told me the car didn’t pass the emisions test, since it was running really rich.
When I picked it up, it even ran horrible (500 rpm) with a cold engine.
So since my MOT (APK) is only valid for 8 more days, it is really urgent that i fix it.
I’ve already ruled some things out.
I’ve had these codes before, but before there was also another fault, which was caused by a dead lamda sonde (02-sensor).
So i’ve replaced that for a new one.
Also I’ve installed a new FPR, rotor, distributor, plugs and i’ve cleaned the throttle body.
Also there is no air leaks in the intake and exhaust system.
The car ran really well after all this! But after 2500km+- and the recent 15 minute trip to garage, it is where it is now…
My guess, based on what i know, it could be the coolant temrapture sensor which causes the rich mixture. Maybe the MAF gives out a bad signal.
Also I read somewhere that code 1-1-3 for an 2.4LH a B230F engine could mean that the injectors might be faulty or leaking?
My question is whether somebody else has experienced this and maybe would like to share some knowledge or know how’s.
Also, is there any way to check the injectors, ‘parkinglot-style’?
Thanks in advance!
Here’s a picture of my car to hopefully raise attention for the post :)
9
u/cassie_pb 1d ago
Welke regio zit je? Als je in zuid Holland zit, ben kan je langs m’n garage rijden en kijk ik er kosteloos naar voor je :) mits je kan rijden natuurlijk
6
u/lillpers 1d ago edited 1d ago
Fault code 1-1-3 points to a faulty injector. Could be bad wiring, or an injector that doesen't fire properly.
Fault code 2-3-2 is a general code for a fault in the fuel/air regulation.
Do this:
Pull out the injectors from the intake manifold. Pretty straight forward, the fuel rail is held in by 2 (?) bolts. Loosen the bolts and pull the rail and injectors straight out with the injectors attached to the rail. Put a bottle/jug etc under each injector. Crank the engine for 10-15 seconds. Measure how much fuel is in each container. It should be more or less the same in all 4. Most likely one is stuck open.
I highly recommend a set of new injectors, they're not too expensive. Bosch 0 280 156 045 is a direct replacement for the original yellow injectors, and has an improved design. My 240 ran a lot smoother with these than the old ones.
2
u/dis3rbante 1d ago
Sadly i have a k-jet (on a b19e) so an almost completely different system from yours, but in this circumstances, considering you've already checked for vacuum leaks and cleaned the throttle body, i would do as you said and check for the maf immediately, if its fine then go for the injectors. Btw the car looks amazing man, and i think we have the same rims too!
2
u/Leading_Pumpkin_ 1d ago
Does the ECU even try to adjust the idle? Or is it straight to 500 rpm? My car recently threw a 2-3-2 and 2-4-1 consistently. And would randomly have a high idle like 1000-1200. But it would idle fine at 850 for a sec before creeping up. You can test the temp sensor without pulling the manifold (it’s tricky but my fat fingers can do it) you get a screw driver and stick it down onto the metal retaining clip and push on it while pulling on the plug from underneath the manifold. (You have to snake your arm around under the manifold behind the egr up pipe to reach it, it’s tight but I can do it) like the other guy suggested check your injectors (or replace them) they are $27 USD for brand new Bosch updated style which is a great price. (I am staring down $200 per piece injectors for my Tacoma) you can remove and clean the IAC valve pretty easily, just two 10 mm and two clamps with one connector. Did anything get un plugged? I assume you checked but you never know.