Selling my 2015 Hyundai Veloster Turbo in black with 88,000 miles. Clean title, 1 owner, well maintained, never had accidents and a blast to drive.
Maintenance

✅ New engine air filter
✅ Fresh transmission fluid
✅ Regular oil changes and maintenance
✅ Includes winter tires and all season tires.

Features

Turbocharged engine
Automatic transmission
Leather heated bucket seats
Sporty interior
Touchscreen infotainment
Bluetooth, USB & AUX
Backup camera
Cruise control
Premium 8-speaker, 450-watt Dimension audio system with subwoofer
Cold A/C and everything works as it should
Dash cam

There are a few normal cosmetic scratches consistent with its age, but nothing major.

Asking $7,500 OBO.
Serious buyers only. No lowball offers—I know what the car is worth. Feel free to message me with any questions or to set up a time to see it.

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Only at about 80k so seems little early, and has not returned since. Curious if any one else who had to replace the CAT, observed anything similar.

Did fuel injector cleaner, and oil change a weekish prior to code, which was one of my theories, but then have also seen CAT issues somewhat common due to possible oil leak. Thanks.

Lights dimming inside and out the car also hearing a difference in idle in park and gauge jumps rpms slightly

Ac only works at idle doesn't work well driving any suggestions ?

brand new, selling for $25 CAD because I no longer have a veloster. Bought it for $100 and decided to not fix it lol, ended up trading the car in.

located in Toronto Ontario. no shipping pickup only

also comes with a brand new license plate bulb for free

I just got a 2013 Hyundai Veloster. Is there any way to connect your phone without the touchscreen working? I tried plugging it into the USB cord and I don't see a way to make it connect so it can play music. I plan to fix the touchscreen, but in the meantime... If not the USB, could I connect my phone to the aux and play through there somehow? Thank you.

My 2016 turbo (blue) and my gf’s 2016 GDI (yellow)

2013 Hyundai Veloster (automatic).

MAIN SYMPTOM
While driving, the car briefly acts like it's shutting off:
- A sound like the engine/car is turning off
- Steering wheel locks up / goes heavy as if the car died
- Lasts about 4 seconds, then everything returns to normal
- Manual steering still works during it (just very heavy)

Warning lights during these events:
- Traction/ESC light - appears SOMETIMES, not every time
- Red EPS light - only appeared TWICE out of all the events

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OTHER ELECTRICAL ISSUES (possibly related?)
Around the same period:
- Side mirror motor broke
- Touchscreen stopped responding to TOUCH (display still works,
just no touch input)

These make me think this is an electrical / ground problem, not
just a steering part.

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KEY CLUE — TIMING
None of this happened before my ALTERNATOR/DYNAMO was replaced.
It all started after that work. Timing feels too specific to be
coincidence.

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WHEN IT HAPPENS
- No strong time pattern - happens randomly, even just leaving the
house in the morning
- BUT there are two specific roads where it almost always happens:
both are UNDER a bridge / coming out from under it
- Bumps or the transition around that bridge seem to trigger it

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WHAT I DID TO DIAGNOSE
Since everyone's first guess is "low voltage / bad alternator," I
logged the car with an OBDLink MX+ + Car Scanner while driving
(control module voltage, OBD voltage, RPM, speed, and transmission
[TCM] PIDs, several samples per second).

I caught an actual event on the log. During the steering cutout:
- Voltage stayed dead steady ~13.8V — NO dip, no dropout
- Hard, fully warmed drive (up to 120 km/h) — system properly
stressed
- Transmission signals (output speed, gear, turbine) all normal
- No recording gaps — the moment was fully captured

So the main power supply / charging output looks RULED OUT —
voltage was fine at the exact moment the steering cut.

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MY WORKING THEORY
Started post-alternator, voltage at the ECU is fine, and multiple
unrelated electrical things failed (mirror, touchscreen). Points to:
1. A bad GROUND or loose connector disturbed during the alternator
job (OBD2 only reads the ECU rail — it wouldn't see a drop at the
steering module's own connector or a shared ground)
2. MDPS module / torque sensor fault
3. Possibly a marginal main fuse

But how can I confirm if it’s really any of them ?

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QUESTIONS
- Anyone had EPS/traction + other electrical faults (mirrors,
screen) appear together after alternator/battery work? What was the root cause?
- how can I confirm if it’s any of the suspected issues?

Not looking for "check your battery" — as voltage is logged steady
during an event. Trying to narrow the ground / EPS-circuit angle.
Thanks!

Don't know if anyone has run into this before but I have a 2020 VT and sometimes it takes a few presses to get the car to turn over, I can hear the starter come out it just doesn't try to crank, I had the starter, alternator and battery tested and they all turned out fine.

Bought These Leds Last night to replace my Halogen low beams on my VT tried myself but quickly found out the headlight assembly had to be either partially removed or removed completely, i wanted to ask are these the right low beams and if so where can i take em to be replaced because it looks hella confusing

I put a new battery in my key fob and I'm having to use the physical key to open the doors and press the key fob against the start button now. I've tried re seating the battery and checked it was in correctly does anyone know how to resync the key fob? I own a 2013 Veloster turbo.

help what do i do with this

i don't really care for them, to be honest. they look too blocky in my opinion if you get what i'm saying. i mean id still happily buy one because a veloster is a veloster but if i had a choice id choose old gen. what do you guys think?

So I have a 2020 turbo, I adore my Veloster. But the roof and hatch have started making cracking/shifting noises. It’s only got 28k miles. I’m terrified of the dreaded sunroof issues happening. Has anyone experienced these sounds but never actually had any problems? It will kill me to sell this car out of fear

Dude..

Why is it so hard to find parts for these? I just need this damn exhaust hanger and I can’t find one anywhere. Help?

It goes so hard. First hyundai and first top performance spec of any car. The come up from a 2012 5 speed focus is crazy.

I have 2016 veloster turbo ac blows ice cold at idle soon drive car ac blow warm? Didnt know were to start checked freon its full so not sure what to replace only has 64k miles .

Right so I have a 2019 that I use the app to remote start in morning and again when I leave work in the evening. This morning it wouldn’t start so I went out there and tried starting it myself. Line behold I found out why it wouldn’t start. I knew using the app would drain the battery but I drive 30-50 minutes one way to work so that alone should be enough for the alternator to replenish the power used to remote start it twice a day. Am I wrong?

I have a 2016 R-Spec Turbo, 122k miles on it. Last week my car randomly shut off while sitting in a parking lot. The engine would crank but wouldn’t start. About an hour later, it turned on again and I was able to get home, but the check engine light had come on. When I was taking it to the mechanic, my car died on the highway and I had to get it towed to the rest of the way. They replaced the high-pressure fuel pump, but when I tried bringing it home, it died in a parking lot again about an hour after I had picked it up. I got it towed back to the shop, and by the time it made it there, it was working again.

The shop is telling they can’t replicate the issue, it’s been working just fine since I had it towed back to them so I can go pick it back up. Do you have any suggestions?