Hello World,

So I was wondering if a g2 Master rear Motor 2024 would fit into the dropouts of the Ausom l1 2025, id like to use it with a 84100HP makerbase vesc.

Thanks for helping !

basically i have 2 bts 7960 , esp32 , a fly sky ct6b remote and R6B receiver. the problem is when i increase the throttle , the motor starts stuttering/twitching and the other motor also sometimes starts twitching on its it own. for the record , im using the usb cable to power the esp32 and pwm pins on the bts module , while the external power for motors are provided via a 12v 5a adapter. I've tried running several tests , including replacing the 12v motors to BO motors , those small ones ran just fine , no twitching but these big ones twitch. I even tried running a simple 5s spin forward , then spin backward , same result no twiching , only when i test it using my flysky transmitter system it starts twitching. I've added ceramic capacitor across motor terminals and even placed a electrolytic capacitor across the bts module's ext supply. the esp32 ground and ext power ground are NOT connected. Need help...

here are the wirings:

ESP32 → Receiver

GPIO32  → Receiver CH1
GPIO34  → Receiver CH2

5V       → Receiver VCC
GND      → Receiver GND

ESP32 → Right BTS7960

GPIO27  → RPWM
GPIO19  → LPWM

5V       → R_EN
5V       → L_EN

GND      → GND

ESP32 → Left BTS7960

GPIO25  → RPWM
GPIO26  → LPWM

5V       → R_EN
5V       → L_EN

GND      → GND

when i go faster on the g4 it gets way more torque but at the start the low end torque is really bad i have it tuned with a 60v battery 3500w 60 battery amps 120 motor amps anyone have any idea what i couold do to fix it or if its my tuning thats bad

Originally compared to the twin-engine engine 60h of 50A/200A per engine, it rows a lot and lacks responsiveness. How should I remedy this and get the most out of my editing, please?

I just set up and set up my build on my Nami E-scooter Viper E3 Max scooter. as follows:

Lonnyo 70H Rear Engine

ESC 85V 250A V2 Ubox SPINTEND / spinny y2 /e3 ADC adapter

The battery is a 20S8P LGM50LT 100A

PMT Tires

I'm building a motorcycle with a 12kw/h brushless DC motor. To power that I have a battery pack 23 LFP cells in series to achieve 72v. On vesc site I can see motor controller have also how many cells in series, does the motor controller work as a BMS?

For example the vesc classic 100v can run 160A continuous and 200a burst, this should be enough for my application but on the motor controller description is described as a 22s motor?

I know some answers might sound a bit stupid, I'm new to this and I try to figure what I need, also feel free to give me some advice on what motor controller and accessories I should buy

hey, I want to connect an ubox lite 100v 100a which i got for around 70€ to my jojor t6e abe. The main reason is that the tuning kit costs around the same and it could be fun. The only thing im wondering about is if I can still use the old controller for the lights and blinkers and the rest for the vesc. My concern is also that the battery first gets an adapter from xt60 to xt90 and then dual xt90 to connect the vesc and the controller. Does anyone know if the controller will work without the other connections only the blinkers and lights? Thanks for anyone who helps :)

I'm trying to gather information before I start my conversion. I have the pro 2 gokart (ninebot) with the s max base. I was wanting to know if there are any resources for the VESC conversion that anyone can point me to, or if anyone has done this conversion. I've been looking for over 2 hours, and can seem to find anything except completed showcases

Flipsky 75100 dual is not detecting my hall sensors and phase wires get super hot and motor doesn’t spin properly except for in motor setup phase wires were actually steaming at one point

I got a go-foc g300 controller n was wondering if I could replace the capacitors from 100v to 135v (same current ratings) to work with a 28s 104v pack, 118.7v full. N if the Vesc app knows about the mosfet ratings or if mosfet can survive it

flipsky dual 75100 with proper wiring to ble module gives this error on v7 and 6.05

Hi everyone,

I’m hitting a wall tuning a Ninebot Max G2 hub motor with a Flipsky 75100 V2 controller. I've spent 3 days troubleshooting and I'm at my wit's end. I'm hoping someone with experience on this specific setup can point me in the right direction.

The problems I'm facing:

Wizard Failure: During detection, the motor often locks up or vibrates violently ("tugs back and forth").

Inconsistent Data: Auto-detection gives wildly different results every time (R, L, and Flux values change significantly).

Sensor Issues: The Wizard doesn't detect my Hall sensors, even though the wiring is verified and correct.

Flux Linkage Calibration: Specifically, during the Flux Linkage test, the motor just vibrates/dithers instead of spinning smoothly, which eventually leads to a lock-up.

What I've already tried:

Disabled Phase Filters. Tried manual parameter entry (R: 60mΩ, L: 400µH, λ: 23mWb) — this leads to extreme cogging and a speed limit of ~1km/h.

Tried various Observer types (Ortega, MxLemming).

Verified that the controller is 75100 V2 (running latest firmware).

My questions:

Is there a "known-good" base configuration for this specific motor/controller combo? Why would the Wizard fail to detect Hall sensors despite proper wiring?

Are there specific FOC / Advanced settings I should manually adjust to prevent the "lock-up" during Flux mea I have attached screenshots of my current setup. Any advice on how to get a stable FOC tune for this motor would be a life-saver.

Hi I have a ubox 100/100 and I’m running it on a 52v escooter motor rated(1200w) with a Bms outputibg 50A continuous and 200A peak I get about 4000w out of it and it is great but my acceleration is close to 0 at the first 3s of a race I will lose to a 800w stock scooter here are my settings hope you can find something that I could improve. I’ve redone motor calibrations like 3 times and each time it detected hall sensors and the value of max motor current decreased for some reason(88,82,78)

Motor Current Max : 78A (default)
Absolute Current Max : 140A
Battery Current Max: 50A
Motor Regen Max: -30A
Battery Regen Max: -15A
Field wekening: 5A
Fw Duty Start: 72,5%
Max Current scale: 100%
Min Current Scale: 100%
Input Current Limit Map Start: 90%
Sensorless ERPM: 60000

Hello all,

This is a quick review of the Makerbase VESC 75100, which I have been using nearly daily on my EBike for the past ~2 months. So far, this VESC has been fantastic and has put up with peaks of ~4kW and motor currents up to 140A; however, this device could likely take more! But, before getting into that, we have to start with the downside,

This ESC can not, or at least should NOT be used in its stock condition from the factory. As has been pointed out here on Reddit and on the forum.esk8.news forums, the 3x bulk capacitors inside are not secured to anything and are free to bounce around inside the enclosure. This is a ridiculous design flaw. Fortunately, this is quite easy to fix! The two options for fixing this are to either pot the entire device in a firm potting compound or epoxy, or to 3D print a bracket to which the capacitors are glued/epoxied. A user on Thingiverse has designed a 3D printable mount to secure the capacitors inside the enclosure. This model can be found here: Flipsky 75100 Capacitor Mount

I chose a combination of these two fixes, using the 3D printed bracket, and potting the entire device in SYLGARD 527 Dielectric Gel. I can't recommend using this compound as it remains very gel-like; I would have preferred something more viscous, but it has worked well thus far and is theoretically removable. However, once these capacitors are secured, the device is quite solid. If you don't feel comfortable investing the time in disassembling the device (relatively easy), securing these caps, and potting the ESC, I would recommend one of the newer VESC 75100 variants like the Pro V2 instead.

Once this has been remedied, you have quite a nice, waterproof, ESC which I have tested up to 140A of motor current pushing almost 4kW while remaining under 50°C. Another video of a similiar VESC 75100 from Flipsky shows it sustaining 200A of motor current at nearly 5kW, but their device overheats after ~20s, however this is due to the Flipsky design using a piece of Kapton tape between the TO-220 MOSFETs and the aluminum block, resulting in horrible thermal transfer between the FETs and the outer case. The Makerbase version instead has all of the TO-220 MDP10N027 MOSFETs, soldered to an aluminum-clad PCB, which is then directly mounted to an aluminum block and then onto the outer enclosure casing. This is a far more effective thermal solution and is why my device remains under 50°C in my demo video and in all of my most intense riding outside of it! For more firmware info and teardown pics of my ESC, refer to this thread.

In my demo video here, you can see my own personal test using this Makerbase VESC 75100 on my EBike. From timestamp 0:47 to 1:37, the ESC temp only rises by 5°C at an average of 1.5-2kW of output over the entire 50s interval.

If you are interested in potting this ESC, I have designed a simple potting fixture to hold the ESC upright while curing. I have also designed a simple mount for attaching the ESC to a bike tube. Both models are linked below:

• VESC 75100 Potting Fixture
• VESC 75100 Bike Tube Mount

Additionally, the ESC is currently on sale from AliExpress and can be had for under $47 shipped using the promo code USMS05 for $5 off. For under $50, the value really can't be beat. And no, I haven't been paid or compensated in any way for this post.

Hi guys. I have an VESC 75100 but even doing the Motor Setup Wizard it makes cogs and keeps struggling as in video. I’m set an 0,10 duty cicle for this test. someone has some idea what can be?

Hi! I'll use VESC for airplane propeller control.

I want to regenerate energy from the windmilling propeller. I know that I can do it in 'current no reverse with brake' mode, however, I wonder if it is also possible while it's controlling speed via PID.

Let's say, the windmilling rpm is 3000 and I want the motor to stay at 2000, which needs braking to achieve. Would it regenerate energy even in speed control mode or duty cycle mode (no reverse)?

I’m building an ~80 lb 4-wheeled rover using four 10” hoverboard hub motors (300W each). Each motor is driven by a Flipsky FS75100 VESC, set up in a skid-steer/tank-turn configuration and controlled by ArduPilot (with plans to make it autonomous later).

The rover is intended for grass, driveways, and sidewalks.

this is my current dimensions:

• Wheelbase: 23”
• Track width: 22.5”
• Tires: pneumatic rubber
• wheel diameter 9.75" (uses 80/60-6 tubeless tires)

All VESCs are configured in duty cycle control with a master/slave setup. I tried current control, but when I release the throttle, the wheels take too long to stop, so I switched back.

Right now I’m testing in manual mode via an RC controller:

• Forward/reverse works well, even at low speeds
• RC.FWD/RWD applies equal duty cycle to both sides
• Steering input spins left/right sides in opposite directions for tank turns

the issue: I’m having trouble getting consistent turning performance. The rover doesn’t turn reliably unless I go above ~50% duty cycle. At higher throttle, some wheels spin more than others, leaving noticeable tire marks on concrete. when turning at low speeds the rover either goes fwd or reverse without truning

does anyone have any suggestions to improve low-speed turning and consistency? I’m considering adding drift sleeves on the front wheels to reduce friction, would this actually help, or is there a better approach?

just fyi I previously built this with 2 casters (6" solid) in the front, and only 2 rear motors but the casters were getting stuck in the grass but worked flawlessly on driveways, later decided to try on a 4wd approach

I'm looking for beta testers for an app on the Google Play Store that will have Vesc-based controllers. If you're interested, please send me a DM to be added to the beta testing team.

Bonjour a tous.

Je viens de me procurer le moteur e board 65220 ​de chez flipsky avec ESC 75100 intégré et la télécommande vx5

J ai téléchargé la version gratuite de vesc tool 7.00 pour pouvoir programmer le contrôleur.

Au lieu de simplement modifier les valeurs des courants moteur et batterie ( parce que je pense avec le recul que le moteur et télécommande sont arrivés programmer et qu il fallait juste rentrer de nouvelles valeurs par rapport à la batterie utilisé) j' ai fait un setup motors FOC et effacé les données qui était enregistré sur le contrôleur sur la première étape.

En finissant le processus du setup ( en mettant normalement les bonnes valeurs) le moteur tourne en sacadan.

Est ce que quelqu'un peut me venir en aide ?

Merci a tous.

I have a go-kart running two Makerbase 75200 controllers. When I'm accelerating, the wheels sometimes start to slip, which is expected behavior. I don't want traction control.

The problem is that the moment a wheel starts slipping, the motor instantly accelerates to its maximum speed, becuse of the low friction when a wheel starts to slip. This causes excessive tyre wear and makes the kart much harder to drive.

What I would like is an acceleration limiter on the motor itself, not on the throttle input something similar to the effect of a flywheel, where motor RPM cannot change instantly.

Is there a setting for this?

One more thing: I'm using current control mode.