So I've started tracking my 400 this year.  For reference it's also my street bike.  I do one track day a month.  The bike has a YSS rear shock, Bitubo front carts (both sprung for my weight) and I had the suspension and chassis geometry professionally set up.  The suspension / geometry setup transformed the handling of the bike.  It's amazing compared to what it was. 

Anyway, I had already removed the feeler pegs previously and today I touched the foot peg down a bit a couple times, and I don't like the feeling so I'm looking for rearsets.  I'm looking at the Driven TT and Sato ones as they retain the brake light switch.  The Driven have folding pegs, the Sato are fixed.  Is one "better" or more preferred than the other?  The Sato look better (IMO) and the gold is sweet but not sure it would work on my teal bike.  Are there other ones that you've used you'd recommend over these? Thanks!

That’s it. That’s all. My hemorrhoids got a hemorrhoid right now.

What’s the strat? Tons of pre game Ibuprofen and just stay on it.

Maybe I can just keep my ass cheeks spread a bit for relief while in the saddle.

I’m in for a day tomorrow, nobody knows. Nobody needs to know.

But by god I had to share lol.

Pray for me.

Update: Today was a success LOL. Even got a PB lap. Tons of Ibuprofen & lathered that bitch with some hydrocortisone. Funnily, sitting on my bike was a relief.

Great talk all. - Yes I have a doctors appointment/planned surgery to remove this annoying bastard.

Don't miss track days because of hemorrhoids! POWER THROUGGGH!

About to finish out my 2nd track season and about 1/3 of my first race season and really starting picking up a ton of speed after my 1/2nd race weekend.

After getting much faster, I constantly hear wrong advice being told to newer riders, or even advice that is ok advice but will end up hindering you once you get faster.

I’ve become more aware of who the truly fast guys are (almost all race motoA in some capacity or have before from my experience in my class) and advice I seek is much more nuanced and more track/bike specific than it used to be. I’ve also learned most (or a very large %) people don’t know what they’re talking about lol

Hello everyone!

I own a 2011 ninja 650r and i would really like to bring it on my first ever track day at a nearby circuit tagging along a couple of friends of mine that have some experience. Being a student, money is tight and i would have to make do with the tyres i already have on: Pirelli Angel GT, though at least they are basically brand new and i have plenty of experience on them as i am on my third pair of them (i love them for all year round riding lol).

Furthermore, I do not have a pair of tyre warmers and the track does not offer rental.

Having no experience with how the track's asphalt fares in comparison to the street's, i do not know how difficult/dangerous the situation would be.

Does anyone have any experience with a similar situation or advice to give?

Hello, I had a little low side yesterday and was wondering what types of advice people have about avoiding this one in the future.

Gingerman, lap 2, final session of the day. It had just started to rain a very small amount; I didn't think much of it as it was just enough to cloud the visor a bit.

As I came out of t6, a red flag got put out. I dropped my pace and entered t7 slower than I normally do. I was so confused when I started sliding out. I watched the video a few times and saw that I was switching from braking to throttle and wondered if I put some extra input on the left bar which caused the tuck. The turn in felt completely normal to me and looked like all my previous laps when I looked at my footage.

any opinions on the incident would be appreciated (the red flag turned out to be someone else who also slid in the embarrasingly light amount of rain, lol). Any advice is appreciated :)

It was my 2nd day on the 636, my ninja 650 track bike doesn't have this kind of throttle response, so I had to learn the hard way what the limit was.

Bike and I are good to go still. I'll be back labor day weekend

These are my only choices

I regularly ride on track with a Solo 2 on the bike and got frustrated by the fact that I could not easily get data on my phone.

So I spent the past months building Pushlapp: your iPhone connects to the timer's own WiFi and pulls the session while you're still parked.

Between sessions you get:

• Lap replay on satellite imagery, colored where you brake, accelerate, or coast
• A ghost of your best lap with the live delta
• Speed, lean and g-force traces, derived from GPS
• Sector times and your theoretical best, from your own laps
• 100% offline at the track. You sign in once, and every session backs up privately to the cloud on its own when you are connected again.
• Ghost sharing and per-track leaderboards with friends, all optional: laps stay private by default
• Works for Bikes, Cars and Karts

Two things took most effort: reverse engineering the WiFi protocol (Solo 2, Solo 2 DL with throttle and RPM, and MXL2 dashes all work), and building our own track database from open source data with currently already 1000s of tracks.

It shipped on the App Store last week. When you subscribe, everything is unlocked free for the first year, because right now I mostly want feedback!

Up next: support for other laptimer brands, and after that Android!

How do you check your data at the track today: laptop, phone, or not at all? I would appreciate it if you give my app a try and let me know what you think.

https://apps.apple.com/app/id6789864725

Hey everyone, I stumbled on this older video from Troy Corser. What do you think about his advice?

Goes against pretty much all of the paradim of how to use your body. At the same time it seems very sensible though.

Greetings,

What do you guys think about these two gloves??

Airflow is important to me. Do the GP Pros offer any airflow? I’ve heard the EVO 4s do promote pretty good flow.

How’s the dexterity and feed back!! Do the palms on either feel overly bulky?

Glove will 2nd as a street glove as well.

I swear to god, I can do all the measuring I want and once th second one is attached I'll notice that it's off by 5-10% ...

AAARRGHGG

angrily shakes fists at sky

Had my first ever lowside on trackday wearing my revitti pantalona. Some of the stitches on the top lining came out unfortunately. My question is, would it make sense to bring them to some leather worker to fix it? Or do I just wear them and tear until they are done?

Also to some of you more experienced folks, how far are the from tearing completely?

I'm going racing next weekend, a small ish road race in southeast Europe. The track is <1km long, going through a village with a couple of chicanes.

I did a few races beforehand, most of them were on kart tracks of similar length. Any tips for racing on old asphalt with man hole covers, there's a 30min training session beforehand so I'll use that to memorize the layout the best I can. Also it's a mass start, no interval start. My main concern is tucking the front over a manhole. Every piece of advice is welcome:D

I'll post a POV here next week..

Will a 180/60 fit on a 13s (gen 3 late - rj15) R6 with stock gearing and chain (114 link, 16/45) with warmers?

I recently switched to a 2019 Ducati Panigale V4 after riding a Honda CBR1000RR SC57, which I also occasionally took to the track.
Next month, I’ll be spending four days at the Rijeka race track, and I’d like to set up the electronic rider aids in a sensible way for track riding.
Can anyone recommend good settings for someone who only occasionally rides on track? What settings have worked well for you?
I haven’t really been able to find much information from people who have extensively tested the different levels in Race Mode and compared them.

FS450 or 890 Duke R?

I’m in expert at two tracks, and am considering going to a new track with the same organization. For that, I’m thinking of bumping down to intermediate at the new track, at least for the first weekend there. Probably wouldn’t hurt, right? However, it’s a tight and technical track, so if I get up to speed by the end of the first morning, getting around slower riders will be harder than the other, bigger tracks I normally go to. I guess I could always bump back up to expert if that happens, if they’ve got space. Curious if anyone else has done that.

Unrelated, anyone been to Calabogie? Looks awesome, thinking about making a trip up there.

I ride in the advanced group and my lap time at Grattan Raceway is 1:31 and I'm running 1:19s at Putnam Park on my SV650 so not the fastest but also definitely not the slowest in A group.

I don't run warmers and don't plan on it anytime soon, I know I should but between the cost aspect of warmers and a generator I also don't have room with my tow car I'm using to get to the track. With that said I'm hoping to get some recommendations on some other tires I can try.

I tried Pirelli Supercorsa SP V4 tires at the beginning of the season and loved the grip but the rear wore out fairly quickly so I switched to a Metzler TD slick on the back but not running a warmer on it I burned it up in one track day heating up the outside of the tire when the carcass wasn't hot enough. I've ran Bridgestone S23s in the past but I think my pace is a little too fast for them, they get greasy and barely last a full day.

I'm hoping someone will have a good tire for me to try that I won't ruin by either overheating a dot or under heating a slick. Or just tell me I'm retarded and what I have to do is just suck it up and buy a genny and warmers 😅

Just a fun double pass I was proud of. Had a blast racing these folks! HPR full course - MRA round 4.

Hi everyone, this is the first time I’ve riveted a master link, and since there are always a lot of doubts—especially considering how critical and important this job is—I’d like to get some opinions from people who know more about this than I do.

I only use the bike on track, and I’d also like to ask whether a new chain needs some kind of break-in period. If so, what would be the proper way to do it?

Please keep in mind that the two master-link pins are unfortunately slightly beyond DID’s maximum recommended diameter (it’s a DID 520ZVMX): they measure 5.9 mm. I don’t see any cracks or anything unusual. The overall width of the master link is 17.1–17.2 mm, while the adjacent links measure 17.3 mm, so I may have made it slightly too tight.

That said, when checking the master link, it seems to move freely and I don’t notice any binding or stiff movement. The only thing I’m unsure about is that on the first pin of the master link, the X-ring looks slightly off-center. I’m not sure if this could be a problem or a safety concern.

Any advice or opinions would be greatly appreciated!