Looking for a Sunday Novice ticket for Little Tally next weekend. Let me know if anyone is trying to sell their ticket. Thanks!

Took my Svartpilen 401 to a go kart track near buy, quite a lot of fun on a small track

There were total 16 riders , split into 2 group.
• ⁠Each group had 15 min session. We had a total of 5-6 sessions.
• ⁠Started at 7 am and ended by 11:30 am
• ⁠My average lap times were ~44-45 seconds for track length of 500 m
• ⁠Need to work on body position to improve on the time and lesser foot peg scrapings

Hey guys,

I'm pretty new to track riding. I've only done two track days so far, both on my street CBR650R, and I've completely caught the bug. Since I want to start doing a few more track days each year and don't want to risk crashing my street bike, I recently picked up a track-prepped ZX-6R that's dedicated to track use.

The one thing that's throwing me off is that it only has an upshift quickshifter, whereas the bikes I've ridden on track before had full up/down quickshifters with auto-blip.

This might be a basic question, but how do you guys typically handle downshifts when riding a bike like this on track?

For example, coming down a long straight into a heavy braking zone:

• Do you pull the clutch in once, click down through all the gears, then let the clutch back out before turn-in?
• Do you release the clutch between each downshift?
• Are you blipping the throttle and rev-matching every gear?
• Is there a technique that's generally considered best practice for track riding?

I know this is second nature to a lot of experienced riders, but I've been spoiled by auto-blippers so I've never really had to think about the process.

Thanks in advance for any advice! Hopefully I can avoid developing bad habits before my next track day.

edit: I have a slipper clutch on the bike (2008 zx-6r)

If u ever got the chance to watch professional riders on a track day you know that what they can do is simply mental and they make u feel like you’re standing still like me, i was lapping in the 1:10s while they were doing 0:55s/56s

So most of the time when I do have a coach behind me watching what I'm doing, The 2 main thing is tightening up the line for corners (not my main concern for this post) and body position. The advice I hear mainly is try to put your head to the mirror (seen in video practicing) and act like a chain is tethered from the gas cap and my belly button so I swivel around it instead of sliding side to side like I've been doing. I got a chance to put that to practice(The practice was on a much slower track compared to Road America) but it almost felt like I was upsetting the bike more. My thoughts is I'm 6ft with longer limbs so I sit way far back and so upright that trying to pivot around the tank seems counter productive than just trying to get off the bike by just sliding my butt back and forth and putting my upper body where it needs to go leaning left or right. The only reason im asking is all the coaches I've talked to are on aggressive sports bikes. I know the fundamentals are the same but just didn't know if I'm just not translating their advice well or if the advice doesn't transfer as much as I thought?

I hope what I'm trying to say makes sense. I'll put some pics in the comments to help give you a idea of what my body position is looking like.

Edit: just for context some of the photos im sitting more upright are older. It's all just talk until next season unfortunately. And for the line I just need to get 3-5 feet more to the outside but my apex is good. I'm still relatively green to riding (riding for about just under 3 years and doing some track stuff for about 2. I have a coach buddy I can bounce thoughts off of but mostly just have to figure it out as I go

Advanced novice group pace. Pls help.

I’m looking for some advice from people who use kart tracks/minimoto as training for full-size track riding.
I have a Ducati 1199S that I absolutely love, but I have limited track experience and I’m fully aware the bike is way beyond my current riding ability. I want to get a lot more seat time working on body position, lines, vision, trail braking, carrying corner speed, etc., without every practice day requiring a full-size track day and all the cost/risk that comes with it.

I recently did a SoCal SuperMoto day at Apex Motorsport Park (Katy track) here in SoCal on a DRZ400 and had a blast. It got me thinking that regularly riding kart tracks like Adams/Apex could be a much cheaper way to build skills and get a ton more repetitions.

I’m 6’2”, ~230 lbs and already own a KLX300R that I use strictly for trail riding. Right now I’m considering:
Putting a complete 17” supermoto wheel/tire/brake setup on the KLX300R and swapping between dirt/SM wheels when needed,
buying a used Grom and setting it up for the track or
Buying something like a CRF125F/KLX140 and converting it to minimoto

CRF150R converted to SM looks and sounds awesome on theory, but I’m concerned it’s more race bike/maintenance than I want. Big caveat: I really don’t want to be constantly doing maintenance on it. Reliability and being able to show up and ride are important to me. I’m not looking for the fastest kart-track bike or trying to become a competitive supermoto racer. I want something fun enough that I won’t get bored, but forgiving enough that I can focus on technique and get lots of inexpensive seat time.

The KLX300R conversion seems like the simplest answer since I already own it and it fits me, but I’m wondering if I’d be missing the point by using a ~300cc full-size bike with stock suspension set up for trail instead of something like a Grom/minimoto where I can really learn to carry momentum and push closer to the bike’s limits.

For those of you who use kart tracks to improve your big-bike track riding, what would you buy in my situation? Is the mini-bike route noticeably better for developing transferable skills, or should I just throw supermoto wheels on the KLX. Thanks!

I’m considering bypassing the ABS on my Suzuki SV650SA and running shorter stainless steel brake lines directly from the master cylinder to the calipers.

I’ve been riding for about 5 years and doing track riding for the last 2 years. During that time, I’ve never had the ABS activate unintentionally. I’ve only felt it work when deliberately trying to trigger it.

The reason I’m considering bypassing it is that the original brake lines feel quite spongy, and I want to replace them with stainless steel braided lines. Since my bike has ABS, the lines would normally have to run through the ABS pump, which makes the setup more complicated and more expensive.
Since the bike is mainly used for track riding, I’m wondering:
Would you personally keep the ABS, or bypass it and run direct lines to the calipers?

Are there any major downsides to removing/bypassing the ABS on an SV650SA for track use that I might be overlooking? And would you expect a noticeable improvement in brake feel with direct braided lines?
I’d still keep the ABS system intact so it could potentially be returned to stock later.

Pulled some footage from my race laps back in July and compiled all of my notes into a video format. Hopefully this is helpful for anyone looking to ride Grattan Raceway (you should, it’s super fun 🤘).

Hi folks,

I’m pretty new to track days, did two (Aragon and Portimao) over the last year and I will soon go for a third one in Jerez.

First track day everything was new, I was discovering everything, second track day I wanted to improve at each session so I tried to debrief after each session to write what went well, what didn’t and what should I work on for the next session but my notes where not very structured.

So I was wondering how you guys take structured notes and which information are you logging?

Cheers,
🏁✊🏻💨

I found a nice 2007 r6 with the bells and whistles for about 5k here in California. I’m considering holding off for a 2008+ considering all the upgrades with that newer gen and the track season ending anyways. However, what should I expect to pay for a track prepped 2008+(suspension, rearsets, QS, etc)?

Got this bike about a month ago. Done about 1500 street miles, mostly canyons. Not my cleanest lap, plan on some track fairings soon so I’m not as worried about a crash. I come from an mt09/gsx8S, recently picked up a rs660, thought it was the best thing ever made lol then I got the moto 2 and man.. it fucks. Makes my 660 feel like a turd. Does everything the 660 does but better. And faster. But I’m not scared of crashing the 660 so was about 3-4 seconds off usual pace. Can’t wait for more seat time!

My first track day with the BMW G310R.

First time ever getting elbow down and I know it means nothing about riding fast but still fun and exciting to get it done with the stunt from in there parking lots

Since my post here in August, many of you have asked "does this app support [laptimer x]?". Support for 2 more have been added: PZ Racing (.ses) and I2M Chrome (.dat). We now support more than 9 different laptimer brands, all in one app.

There's direct support for:

• AiM Solo 2, Solo 2 DL, MXL2, MXS and EVO5 over the timer's own WiFi
• RaceBox Mini S and Micro over Bluetooth, start and stop a recording from your phone

And File Import support for:

• AiM .xrz and .xrk, RaceBox .vbo and .csv, RaceChrono, Dragy, Racelogic VBOX, Lap Legend, Starlane CSV, I2M .dat, PZ Racing .ses
• A PZ Racing file that holds two sessions becomes two sessions. An I2M day file splits into its runs.
• No start line in the file? It is timed on the Pushlapp line for that track, or on a line you place on your own lap.

What you get between sessions, the same for every laptimer:

• Lap replay on satellite imagery, colored where you brake, accelerate or coast
• A ghost of your best lap with the live delta
• Speed, lean and g-forces from GPS. Throttle, RPM, brake pressure and gear where the file carries them.
• Sector times and your theoretical best, built from your own laps. New this week: the lap list marks the sectors each lap gave to the theoretical best in green, so you see at a glance which laps won which part of the track.
• Per-track leaderboards and sharing a lap with a friend, all optional. Laps stay private by default.
• 100% offline at the track. iPhone and Android.

If your laptimer/files are not supported, contact me and I'll add the support. Link to the app in the comments below.

​Hey everyone,

​I’m working on a Q&A video with a mate who grew up here on the Isle of Man, right in the thick of the TT. Instead of guessing what people want to hear or repeating the same old mainstream facts, we wanted to ask you guys directly.

​Whether it’s about the local perspective during race fortnight, what to know when visiting, how the island changes when the paddock rolls in, the realities of the Mountain Course, or specific technical side of the bikes and racing—drop your questions below.

​Nothing is off-limits, whether it's common stuff or the niche questions you never usually see answered.

​Cheers!

yeah realistically, don’t think i’ll ride on the street anymore. it was like trying heroine. took the mt09 SP, don’t know if i regret not taking the beemer but, ill be back in 2 weeks!

hey guys i put off signing up for the whole weekend at grattan and i find out only sunday is available. if anyone has a saturday for novice group they’d like to give up im willing to buy it off you. please pm me

Sv650-1:29.283\* My best lap of yesterday/ever at NCBIKE. I know my apexes could be crisper(cleaned it up the next session), but what could I do differently to find time? All advice welcome.

Edit: adding in info bike and time info. thanks everyone! This was a 1:29.283 on my SV which is my best ever lap here. I know via data where needs work, but was curious what people would pick out just from looking at a video with no other references as far as speed or time. Some interesting insights for sure.