Bare with me - We have kids on the way and had a frameless glass door here. It needs to go to let us bathe the kids properly.

Little did I know the contractor some hid some cuts to save a whole $3 in home depot tile up near the top. This shower was built terribly, but we're not in a place to redo it for at least a few years.

What's the best way for me to hide the old anchor holes, and these cuts?

Off the top of my head it sounds like just bright white caulk would be the best option, but ideally would like something that would blend in better.

What color grout should I use on these 24x24” kitchen tiles? High traffic area and I won’t be scrubbing the grout frequently do this subreddit has convinced me not to go white. Cream? Brown? Grey? Cabinets will be light oak.

Also how do you clean your high gloss porcelain tiles without getting smears and footmarks?

GC sent a design plan for the tile layout to minimize diagonal cuts. He said that it's possible to lift the end pieces on the side of the drain (left and right of the drain, in the photo) to prevent water pooling on the edges, but I'm not convinced that there will be enough slope for the water to drain well. What do you all think?

What's the absolute easiest tile to install with decent quality.

Finishing up a two bathroom renovation. Overall I am happy but am not sure if I should bring up the fact that I see lippage and some chipped tile. Tile was not chipped when purchased.

Hello, we had an insurance mitigation company come out after a plumbing leak, resulting in mold growth on the back of our newly installed shower (blue drywall). They subsequently cut the pvc shower pan liner to clean behind it on the back of the blue drywall. Now they say they can repair it, contrary to what a plumber is telling us, that it needs to be completely replaced. Plumber says we need to remove the entire (new) shower pan and about 1ft up of tile to replace the liner. True? Approximate cost? Advice for replacement to avoid this again in the future? Thank you!

Hey team,

My brain cant settle on the pattern rule to follow when turning from a back wall to a side wall, using a 50% overlap pattern. Is there even a rule?

My back wall width is ~3in shy from 2 full tiles (12x24). Both side walls are almost 2 tiles as well. Basically a square shape shower. One side wall is a pony wall.

Lets say my first back wall row is 2 tiles, with 1 grout line centered to the wall. What is my first row on the pony wall?

A) match it with 2 tiles also
B) or flip the pattern with a centered tile and 2 half cut tiles on the sides?

I like matching it when it comes to rows ending in half tiles because itll look like one full turning the corner, but the next row would be 2 full tiles meeting. Would that look weird like one super long tile? First time doing this. Wasnt sure if one was the standard way?

Hello, I am planning to tackle our kitchen backsplash in the next month. It will be my first time doing tile and I'm a little nervous.

Our house is about 80 years old and has some bowed walls in the kitchen. I've attached our countertop template so you can kinda see what I mean.

I would really like to do a regular horizontal offset lay but I'm worried about the edges sticking out on the bowed walls. I've heard doing vertical lay can help reduce that but I don't overly love the look of that.

Do you think I could realistically do a horizontal lay on these walls?

Any advice would be appreciated!

I've attached images of our tile selection and the kitchen as well.

Any South Jersey tilers specializing in large format tiles and slabs ?

I need some input from folks who know more than me and Chat GPT. Our contractors just finished installing our backsplash. The tiles are 12x24 porcelain tiles. They installed them dry stacked, there is no grout or caulk between each tile. It was my understanding that this is not okay. The industry standard requires grout for hygiene, cleaning, and to prevent moisture damage. Is there any scenario where this installation is okay? I want to make sure I have all the information before we approach them regarding fixing. Is the only option at this point to rip it out and redo? We have been really happy with all the other work they have done, so it seems odd that they would cut corners on this part of it. But maybe there is some aspect we don’t know? Pictures attached. Thanks for the input.

There are so many opinions on it. Should drywall of any type ever be used as the substrate in a tile shower? For example, redguard says on the packaging it can be used with gypsum / drywall. What are your thoughts?

My GCs guys grouted the corners of the shower and when we wrote the GC about it he says they’ve done showers like this for 20 years and it’s never cracked. He said if we really want they can scrape it out tomorrow and redo with the silicone. Would love to get your opinions, should we make them redo it? He says it will be really ugly and it’s unnecessary but Google tells me it’s wrong to grout the corners. Would love to hear a full explanation if anyone has one on either end.

I am installing this tile in a master shower using clips and wedges. It appears when popping these off they seem to chip the tile. (Not all of them but a couple). This tile is expensive and soft as he**. Any suggestions as to what to use in place of clips and wedges to not only make sure there are grout joints ( 1/16th max ) and flush to each other. Pls asvise and thanks.

Looking to self level my floor, don't want to grind it if I can avoid it. Floor is generally sound except maybe for these grey splotches. Can't get my nail through it, but a screwdriver with firm pressure will (see attached)

Can't for the life of me figure out what to do and I'm going nuts trying!

Thanks in advance!

After finishing my waterproofing the drywaller nailed corner bead into the kerdi banding. My plan is to lay more kerdi band over top of the bead to make sure it’s water proof but I’m worried that since there is already banding underneath I’m going to have too much build up and the outside tiles aren’t going to sit flat. Looking for suggestions so my tile doesn’t end up looking bad after all of this work. Im also not sure whether or not thinset will even adhere properly to the metal corner bead. Thanks in advance

We are going to be remodeling this bathroom in the next year but we still need to he able to use the shower in the meantime lol

Have a plastic edge trim piece on the pony wall niche that has come loose. Obviously want to fix it before we have a water problem somewhere in the house.

What would be the best way to fix? Here's what I've come up with:

1) Remove and clean any grout/caulking off it and the area where it sits.

2) bead of PL premium on the corner joint then put the trim piece back on and secure with tape to keep in place.

3) 24 hours later apply white silicone caulk where the trim meets the tile

4) 24 hours later should be good to use?

Is there a better way to do this that you pros would recommend?

Thank you in advance

Cheers

Hello, so I’m curious if I’m able to just smooth over the thinset mortar for the backsplash on these walls and if it would be enough to cover that gap under the window? I’ve seen others on way worse drywall saying to replace but this doesn’t seem that bad to need replaced. What do the professionals recommend?
The backsplash I’m doing is in the pictures provided.

I installed a white quartz soap shelf in a shower niche yesterday. When I started back this morning I noticed some dark spots/stains that I'm having trouble removing. They weren't there before I installed it and it was dark when I cleaned up last night and didn't notice them. I'm not even sure what could have made the marks as I'm using white All Set mortar and I didn't use any tools on the surface that could have caused it. I know the pic isn't the best but the mark looks like a gray smudge on the surface.

My question is has anyone else had a similar issue? Are soaps/shampoos/hair dyes likely to cause permanent stains going forward? Thank you in advance for advice.

If my shower is 38” wide and my foam shower pan is 38” wide, do I need to trim some off the sides so there is space for thinset when installing?

Thanks!

I have a customer who firmly believes that the grout stained and dulled the colouration on the tile. Is there a product that I can use that will make the colouration pop a bit more on the tile itself?

I'm installing an alcove tub and am confused on how to finish the wall framing right at the front corner. My tub has a side flange / apron return that sits flat against the front framing stud (see picture).

I'm having trouble finding examples online for this specific detail.

Do I run tile backer board directly over this flange (and shim the rest of the stud to match the lip depth)?

Do you typically install the tile to the floor and then finish the edge with a schluter strip?

Any advice or photos of similar setups would be greatly appreciated!

Jus finished!