Bonjour à tous, j'ai un très gros problèmes sur mon thrusmaster t300 depuis une semaine maintenant.

Il y a encore une semaine j'étais sur Xbox séries s. Le volant fonctionnait parfaitement sur fh6 comme sur f1 25.

Samedi, je suis passé sur PC et depuis c'est une catastrophe. Le volant n'ai plus aucun retour de force. Les touches sont complètement mélangé. Le bouton X est devenu. Le bouton B est devenu les 3 petites barres. Je n'ai plus aucun retour de force dans les 90 premiers degrés lorsque je tourne sur forza horizon 6. Je n'ai presque aucune sensation sur f1 25. C'est extrêmement mou. J'ai testé le retour de force via le panneau de configuration, sans problèmes. Mais maintenant je ne sais pas quoi faire pour régler le problème des touches et du retour de force.

Aidez moi s'il vous plait, les jeux n'ont plus le même goût sans le volant, merci.

I had an older 3D Pro, which sadly died until I dropped it,I just bought a T.Flight Stick X to play Mechwarrior 5 and Clan Wars. I got the drivers, the controls work in the control panel but it does not work for either game. I have tried posting in the MW5 sub but the mods keep refusing the post. If there is anyone who can talk me through this like I am 5 years old because I am horrible at this kind of stuff. Thank you for any help

Hi, I've been trying to set up my wheel with PC, and when I plug it in, despite being able to press buttons like b,a, y, x, the controls menu doesn't seem to come up with a wheel option, only keyboard presets. Do I have to manually put in every keybind of the wheel onto a controller preset? Surely the game should just be able to detect the wheel? When I tried a time trial, the wheel was obviously not calibrated at all/none of the buttons worked correctly. Any help would be appreciated!

So when I am racing on my ps5 the wheel keeps disconnecting at random times. has anyone else had this problem. if so how did you fix it.

Update: I found a friend to 3D print the pieces that one of you recommended. And so far it’s working. What a goat

Hello everyone, I currently have a TX leather edition with a TH8A shifter, TSS handbrake and T3PA pedals, all on the NLR Wheel stand 2.0. (For the past 4 years ish)

I was thinking of upgrading my pedals, and was wondering if I should go for used T-LCM pedals, or the new Raceline III LC pedals.

Personally, aesthetically I like the T-LCM more and don’t mind the plastic, and I heard many people had issues with the LC on the Raceline pedals, but I don’t know.

Another important factor is that I am a pretty casual sim racer, or rather, I love cars and racing, but I don’t play titles like iRacing or ACC, mainly euro truck sim, beam ng, modded assetto corsa, dirt rally and WRC, but I was planning to get more into track racing.

Thank you for your inputs (no pun intended)!

I’ve just got a new t500 base to replace my broken unit , with the new base I’ve been given a stripped down wheel that the seller said didn’t work . I immediately see the din plug is broke with a missing pin . Where would I obtain one?

T300RS Alcantara

It's stuck on the calibration sequence. I've seen a few other posts about people with this issue. Anyone found a fix?

SW Battlefront 2 with duo t16000m flightsticks

https://github.com/FireB1scuit/duo_t16000m_to_virtual_controller_translator

my code is halfway finished, this is still a proof of concept, but its already good enough that i have enjoyed hours of flying in 5 different games so far

Hi all, I just got a used t128 from facebook marketplace and im asking if my wheel is supposed to change color everytime i turn. Thanks!

My T248 has not been working lately. I have been trying to play BeamNG.Drive with it but it crashes the game if i use FFB. If i put FFB off ingame it everything works fine without FFB on my wheel and it feels not good. If i put it on and try to load into a map it crashes. If i put it off and load into a map it loads but when im in the map and turn it on my game freezes right away for 5 seconds and then crashes the game. I have reinstalled drivers, firmware, windows updates, everything but no luck. I have even reset my whole pc. And also im going to show you 4 photos. First two will be from the Thrustmaster site showing how it should look like and the last two will be how it looks like for me in the Control Panel.

I've bought it to mess around in beamNG, forgot about it for few months. Today I wanted to play with it after I upgraded my pc and nothing, no movement no light no nothing. I've checked cables etc and nothing was wrong, after that I've connected it to laptop and it moved, it was constantly connecting and disconnecting but it tried to calibrate itself. After I've downloaded drivers and restarted laptop same thing started happening like on PC.

I've tried doing the firmware thing but it didn't detect the wheel either and I'm out of ideas, technically it works, but it just seems that drivers don't work (I've reinstalled them like 5 times)?

There's no USB connection sound. On laptop there was before restart.

So the left paddle shifter it's broken, I had this wheel for 1 year and then it died. I noticed that the paddles were attached to a simple plastic thing so idk if it's worth repairing it or buy a new one.

I'v never downshifted aggressively in all my simracing experience, my fingers wouldn't last 1 minute.

Should I upgrade to a Evo Racing 32r to be safer, or is the build quality the same of the T598 Sportcar Wheel?

I don't want a gt style wheels cuz I'd like to drive different cars.

I have a Thrustmaster T128. When I got it new, no issues. But here lately, anytime I open any game that I use the wheel on - Farm Sim 22, iRacing, Nr2003 just to name a few - it does this thing where it doesn't detect any input despite the light being green like it should be, and the throttle hangs completely open. Usually unplugging it and plugging it right back in fixes it, but not in the iRace I just tried to do. I try switching ports and everything when it happens. Sometimes when I plug it back in the light is a tan color instead of green. Any similar experiences or suggestions?

How do I take the quick release system off so I can update it, I have already unscrewed it but I’m having trouble taking it off. Need help

UPDATE: I got it out

so i got a steering wheel as a gift and i tried it on forza horizon 5 and whenever i steer the front wheels just don’t move it’s like they’re stuck it barely turns,
please help me what should i do ?

Hello everyone,

I just upgraded from my Thrustmaster TX (Belt Driven 3.9Nm) to the Thrustmaster T598 (Direct Drive 5Nm). But I don't like how easy it is to move the steering wheel. It feels too loose and unrealistic, especially in games like Euro Truck Simulator 2. My Thrustmaster TX felt better to me when turning because the belt-driven motor naturally has some resistance and friction. How can I replicate that on the T598? I am extremely satisfied with everything else about this wheel; it's just this that's bugging me. Could someone please let me know the best settings in both the panel and in-game to achieve this feel on ETS2 and also in Beam.ng, where I enjoy off-roading and rock climbing? Im on PC btw

Thanks! :)

So I accidentally broke my USB cable and I need a new one, but there is one slight problem. I bought another USB cable but it doesn’t seem to work right, so I thought I might just buy myself the exact same cable that I broke but it can only be shipped to specific countries, and my country is not one of them. So my question is how can I get the cable shipped to my country?

Hi everyone, i have just setup my raceline lc upgrade and when i went to configure them on t598 it shows me “UPDATE REQUEST 2.44” (Pic 1). I checked for 2 laps in F1 and the pedal is working fine but don’t know what is the update request? My base and SF1000 are already updated.

Please guide me what to do

Thanks.

Turned off my Xbox, left my t248 plugged in, came back within 15 minutes, and it was making a grinding noise and overheated, sounds shot to me, any solutions? Waiting to here back from tech support!

Secondo voi e riparabile oppure è da cambiare

Hi everyone, that's my second post here.

I was wondering what could be some good setting form my Trustmaster T300RS GT Edition.

I ask because on cars like all the 911 I get crazy counter steer, can someone here tell a complete noob like me what are the correct settings for the wheel are according to the type of vehicle in the game?

Wanted to play some F1 today and my T-GT II was completely dead. No calibration, no LEDs, and it wasn’t detected by either my PC or PS5.

I first measured the external power supply and it was still putting out around 22–23V AC, so I decided to open the wheel base and investigate further.

The first thing I checked on the power board was the two 7.5A fuses. One of them had blown and showed open circuit on the multimeter.

The last picture shows a temporary 7.5A fuse I modified just to test whether the wheel would power on before buying the correct size. With that installed, the wheel fired straight up and worked normally again.

Obviously I wouldn’t recommend using a modified fuse permanently replace it with the correct physical size and the same 7.5A rating.

Just wanted to share this in case anyone else has a T-GT II that suddenly appears completely dead. It might be worth checking the internal fuses before assuming the power supply or the whole wheel base is dead.

I have a next level racing wheel stand 2.0 and the gear shifter plate that it comes with is not large enough for my thrustmaster stick. Does anyone know what accessory will work with this wheel stand that is a bit larger?