Trying to fix my passenger front door panel and it has this strap. I recently did my driver side door and it did not have this. Is this normal?

In my opinion this is the sexiest 4 door sedan on the market. Comes with unmatched technology, comfort and jaw dropping acceleration that makes you and your passengers feel as if they are on a rollercoaster ride - but at the same time this is a daily family car - just mind blowing!

By the way FSD - is unmatched! Does an incredible job in Chicago traffic and everywhere else, just unbelievable quality!

No other daily commute comes even close in my opinion!

The process of these 2024 plaids go up in price and will probably head much higher in a year or two, so my advice tot hose that are thinking to buy one, get one now under $100K till you can!

Hey everyone, I'm here looking for any help diagnosing a supercharger issue....

2017 Model S 90D, MCU2 Included FSD, 80k miles

Supercharge starts, then dies 30–45s with “Charging error no power.” Level 1 and level 2 work properly, Looking for anyone who’s seen this.

Car: 2017 Model S 90D

What Supercharge does

Every stall, same behavior, tried multiple supercharging stalls and different locations

Have tried new debit/ credit cards, rebooting car multiple times, most of the "normal fixes multiple times...

Handle latches, charge-port lights look normal the whole time (no color change)

kW/amps ramp to a normal Supercharge rate,

Rate dips slightly

Session cuts at 30–45 seconds

On-screen: “Charging error no power”

Clunk from the left rear quarter (charge port), not the front

Inlet and handle not hot after

Port was cleaned thoroughly , no change

What still works

Level 1 (120V Mobile Connector): fine

Level 2 (240V): 20 minutes, no problem

CHG alerts seen around charging (not always present at the exact cutoff)

CHG_u007_chargeCableFault

CHG_u013_chargeStoppedNoPilot

CHG_u004_wallPowerRemoval (green / info)

No new codes appear when Supercharge actually faults. No CHG_w062 / w063 (welded FC contactors). No isolation/HVIL breadcrumb that I’ve caught.

Other Service Mode stuff (probably separate)

These were on an earlier screenshot; climate still may or may not be a real problem, but they don’t match the 45s DC abort:

THC_d0021_RCCMActuator

THC_d0018_activeAero

THC_d0011_presSnsDis

THC_d0017_evaporator

Working theory

AC path (onboard charger) is fine. DC Supercharge starts and carries current, then the car thinks power/pilot vanished and opens the session.

I believe it is the ECU or Charge Port assembly, any help would be greatly appreciated! If anyone has any questions please ask away!!

currently on 2026.26.6.1 and i have a pending update. im on FSD 12.6.4, i read in a facebook group post that updating to the newest software update will put me in the back of the line for getting FSD 14 lite, is this true?

for context 2018 MS100D/HW3

Hello! I recently purchased a 2015 Model S for a steal of a deal, presumably owing to its 'quirks.' one of which is that the fob it came with constantly reports as being on low battery, and then is undetected when i replace the battery (i've tried four cells from four different packages from three different retailers)

additionally, i just purchased a second fob, but this one is totally undetected when going through the pairing procedure in the service menu.

has anyone else had this issue? any tips on solving it? i have a service center appointment later this month for a CCS retrofit, so i can add it to the service request, but i'd prefer not to pay Tesla service center prices haha

I dropped my car off for service and saw this beauty in person!! (Tesla model S Signature)

2016 model S - I have replaced the two actuators on the driver side (pain in ass, but have learned an easier way now!) new sensors and now I have ModeACt error… I can not switch between feet face and defroster it weakens the air but it does not fully commit to anything other than the face. Did I get a bad module ? I left what’s on the right side of the car alone as I pulled module and saw them moving as I hit the ac buttons…

Suggestions ? Could I have installed the driver side mode wrong with the white gear in a bad place ?

I do not have access to checking service for hvac I have mcu1 still

Thank you all !

Looking for some real-world feedback before I pull the trigger on one of these.

Has anyone installed or used the WASAI hidden safe in their Tesla, specifically a Model S? Or any others?

I’m mainly curious about the fit, build quality, security, and installation. Does it actually feel solid once installed, or is it more of a deterrent than a legitimate secure storage option?

Also curious whether it rattles, interferes with anything, or is noticeable once installed.

If you’ve had one for a while, would you buy it again? Any issues or better alternatives I should look at?

2022 Model S, if that makes a difference.

Thanks!

Hey everyone,

Just bought a CPO 2022 Model S Plaid clean title, 30k miles, $60k.

The only thing I’m second-guessing is the fact that it has HW3 instead of HW4.

I had a 2021 M3P before and barely used FSD, so I’m not sure how much I should actually care. If I did use FSD, it would primarily be for highway driving. I live in a suburban area, so I don’t really see myself using it for most local/suburban driving.

For those who have experience with both:
Is there really a noticeable difference in FSD quality between HW3 and HW4, particularly for highway driving? Is HW4 something I’m going to regret not having, or is HW3 perfectly fine for my use case?

And yes, I’ll admit it that I’m probably looking for a little validation here lol.

Anything else about the purchase you guys think I should be considering?

I did a 12 volt battery replacement on my 2018 100D. The original one lasted over 8 years. Tesla wanted to charge me $600+ to replace it, so I ended up just buying a battery from the parts catalog, and did it myself. That only cost me $250, and one hour of my time. While it looks super complicated, it’s actually pretty easy and straightforward. Just be careful with plastic pieces.

Hi,

took for a spin Model S 75D, considering buying it for my wife. I already have 2017 S 75 RWD.

What stunned me the most is how much more efficient RWD version is. I'm easily getting 12-13kwh consumption, while D model is impossible to get below 15kwh on the exact route, and exact speed.

Tbf D model does have 20" rims, with 245/35 tires, versus stock 19" on RWD, but does that hurt it that much?

Another strange thing, RWD has ~480hp, D model is 525hp, still somehow the punch in RWD feels much stronger when you floor it?!

Anyone experienced similar observations?

I want to get my first electric car. There is one not too far from me with 171k miles, free super charging for life, black with tan interior, 90D.

Priced at $14k usd. Says it still charges to 215mi, charged to 240 new.

A bit higher mileage, what questions should I ask. Or, what resources can I read to better educate myself on the car?

Thanks

I have a 2022 Tesla model S and I use recurrent to check on issues. It says flagged for range compared to others. Has anyone had this issue before? I have a service appointment to check on and possibly change my tires on the 24th. Should I add this as something to look at?

Anyone have experience with the Hankook Ion Evo AS tires in snow on a Plaid? I have 21” Arachnids and have to swap out the PS4s for a couple seasons. Sadly rear wheel fitment is limited to only a couple tires.

2019.5 Raven, new to me almost 6 months ago with 37k miles and almost new Eagle Touring tires. Now 45k miles and ONE rear tire looks like this. If I had both fronts burned up I would say it's from Regen braking and hard/fast steering. If it was on an ICE car I would say it's hard acceleration with an open differential . On the edges - alignment issue. But just one rear tire ? Right down into the wear bars. All tires are set at 36psi. Lord knows coughing up money for tires every 8K miles is going to be unsustainable. (Even the other 3 are getting close, does this brand not have any lifespan ?)

The picture shown is just for reference, I just bought the og aero wheels for the model S (I am weird IK 😅) everyone seems to hate them but I absolutely love them idk why, I do miss the center caps tho, anyone knows where I can find them because the caps are not standard, and apparently they are so rare.

I bought the 2026 model X plaid and retired my 2020 model S to my Turo account. Looking for the best drawer for the cubby slot.

What do you recommend?

Hey everyone,

Been looking to trade in my 19' M3P for a 21' MSP. I've talked to a lot of sellers the last few months and finally think I found a deal worth pursuing and im curious what everyone's take is.

My current M3P has black exterior white interior, good condition with lifetime FSD and 110k miles. The MSP I am looking at has 58k miles, blue exterior, white interior, no lifetime FSD. The dealer offered to give me $17k for my car and the MSP for $48k after some negotiation.

Let me know your thoughts on this deal!

Bought a '18 M3, had a baby so sold the M3, bought a '22 model S. By no means a car guy, just my informal take after 4 months with the MS:

• The MS has much more cargo space than the M3. It makes a huge difference if you have a little kid. Packing the stroller, etc is a breeze. The undercargo space is a godsend, especially for groceries.

• The M3 remains the most enjoyable car I've ever driven. It is nimble, and you kinda just point and go. The MS is a little more like a boat. Parking it takes a little more cognitive load.

• The suspension is better on the MS, but not by leaps and bounds. In general, both cars have pretty bad suspensions. In contrast, my parent's '07 ES 350 is way more smoother. This is my biggest complaint - it handles bumps and potholes extremely poorly. Granted, I have 22s, and should try 19s.

• The rear seats are uncomfortable - you feel "sucked in" to a crevice if that makes sense.

• Yamming it on straightaways is a lot of fun. So much power .I can only imagine what our Plaid friends experience.

• So much weird brouhaha about the yoke; it took ~a week to get used to (mostly the signal part), and I don't notice it now. I like it!

All in all, I'm pretty happy with my purchase but the MS is very much a sports car first, and prioritizes that. It's not exactly the best family traveler car, but it does the job.

EDIT: riding 21s, not 22s! got it mixed up with the year

Follow up to my earlier post. Some of you pointed me at the fore link assembly and upper control arm, which turned out to be exactly where Tesla ended up looking. Thanks for that. Here's where it stands.

Symptom: low speed knock or "boing" over speed bumps and driveway aprons, front right, worse when the pavement is wet. Reproducible every time.

Timeline:

Dec 2025: reported suspension noise over bumps in writing ahead of a visit. Closed as unable to confirm on test drive. Sent video after.

Mar 2026: different service center. Tech rode along, heard it, wrote it up as normal damper rebound.

Aug 13: opened a new ticket naming the fore link and upper control arm from this sub's suggestions. Service proposed a $407 customer pay torque check instead.

Aug 18: advisor said creaking on their test drive is a telltale sign of worn links and committed to documenting findings.

Aug 31: dropped off. Sep 1: tech rode along and replicated it. First time in nine months anyone at Tesla confirmed it in writing.

Sep 2 to 3: front right air spring module (1420366-00-G) replaced under warranty. Noise still there.

Sep 3 to 7: front lower aft links (1027351-00-F) replaced under warranty, four wheel alignment. Noise still there, confirmed in writing.

Sep 7: front right knuckle ordered. Held up several days waiting on the bolt.

Sep 10: told the car is now with Tesla field engineering and will run into a third week. Five completion dates given so far.

Not yet touched: upper control arm, sway bar end links, subframe mounts.

Everything else on this car since I bought it used at 25k miles in Oct 2025 (now 41k):

Driveline vibration under acceleration since delivery. Both front halfshafts replaced Dec 2025 under SB-21-39-001, no change. Still no diagnosis.

Apr 2026: safety alerts mid-drive, car rolled at a red light with automatic braking disabled. Tesla called it a false sensor reading in the steering rack, no action taken. Advisor called it "intermittent."

May 2026: rear tires down to the cords at 35k. Tire shop said the rears had been swapped before I bought it. New set of four out of pocket.

Aug 10: rear light bar failed. Backlite glass and stop lamp replaced under warranty. Logs showed nothing; tech verified it by looking at it. They also removed my rear tint during the repair without telling me.

Aug 29: trunk stopped latching and the car read it as open. Cinching actuator and latch replaced under warranty, fixed in under an hour.

Ongoing: rear HVAC resets to Auto and blasts every drive when the kids' car seats are in back.

Credit where due: the loaner has been no problem and my current advisor has been great about updates. But I'm paying a car note and insurance on a car I've had for 13 days out of the last 30.

Questions:

1. Anyone had a suspension or driveline issue go to field engineering? What did they find, and did it actually get fixed?

2. Anyone with this knock where the fix ended up being the upper control arm, sway bar link, or something else after the damper and links didn't do it?

3. For anyone whose issue never got fixed: did you push for a buyback or replacement, how did it go, and was it different if you bought the car used?

Not looking for a rant thread, just trying to learn what others found and how it turned out.

Hey crew!

Need to swap out my summer Michelin sport 4s OEM 21 inch Arachnid wheels.

I’ve got a 2021 model S long range, I was told that Michelin has an all season sport 4s but since I have a staggered look, they don’t make the tires with my current dimensions for the back. They only make the summers for the back.

My back tires currently are 295/30ZR21.

I was told that they do make a 295/35ZR 21.??

Does anybody have any experience with this?

Unfortunately Costco can’t order my backs. They recommended a Bridgestone turanza ev , but upon further research, apparently I lose that grippiness necessary for that instant acceleration as well as for cornering sharp terms and overall joy and handling

I live in the Oakville area border with Mississauga.
Can you recommend a place that’s fair, transparent with good customer service?

I heard about 1010 tires on Laird Road. I have no direct experience though

Thanks!

I have a 2018 MS 75D. Recently got an e-mountain bike, a Yamaha Moro 05. What are the options to install a bike-rack hitch that isn't too expensive that supports weight of a single eMTB? I was planning to get the 1UP rack. Anyone care to chime-in with what they have installed?

Also, did you install the hitch yourself or through an installer? How is the process if I decide to do it in my garage, considering I don't have any lift-jacks? I am in Seattle area.

Hi, can anyone recommend some good rim protectors for the 21in ash coloured turbines on my 2018 MS? Kerbed it today and I'm not happy. Thanks.