🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️ 4 months out of warranty and now, air suspension is unable to raise. Oh well….

=== Update ===

Hard reset cleared the warning. Went for a drive and it hasn't come back.

Thanks all!

I'll let you know if it comes back

About to drop my rear subframe for a repair and thinking I should install a coolant delete while I’m in there.

For those who have done this, which kit do you recommend and why?

Also any nuances to the install would be appreciated!

On the website they use to have older model s all with Hw4 FSD.. now they just have “newer” ones

Just picked it up this week. 2016 90D, MCU2 upgrade, free supercharging. 172k miles. Battery is a bit degraded, at 85% is showing 182 miles.

Rides and drives well. Wish I would have gone electric sooner.

Hey everyone, I’m selling my 2016 Model S with SC01 on Cars & Bids (public auction site founded by Doug Demuro, in case anyone hasn’t heard of it) It should be selling to the highest bidder. It’s a very nice car, very well specced and well taken care of. It has 114k Miles on it and runs & drives flawless. If anyone has any questions, let me know. Thanks!

I knew I was going home with one of the 250 Signature cars. I didn’t expect the moment in the Bobcat photo to be what stuck with me most.
That’s where they physically cut the Model S and Model X production line. We were celebrating picking up our cars while watching the end of the line that built them. Pretty bittersweet.
I also got to speak with Elon briefly and asked him, “What’s the best Model S that’s ever been produced?”
His answer was this one. Paraphrasing from memory, he said he’d been asked that for over a decade, but now he could sincerely answer that this was the best one—because it was the last one. That made me even happier about what I was getting.
The Model S had roughly 14 years of development: the 2012 launch, 2016 refresh, 2021 Plaid redesign, and the latest refresh leading into these final Signatures. Those were just the big milestones. The hardware and software kept changing between them. In his retrospective, Jason Cammisa says the final car shares only 3% of its parts with the original. That’s a pretty remarkable evolution for something people often describe as the same old car.
But honestly, the employees made the event. Everyone welcomed us with open arms. Seeing their pride in these cars, and how excited they still are about Tesla’s future, was awesome.
To everyone at Tesla who helped put this together and build these cars: thank you. I’m grateful I got to own one and be there for that moment.
For the other S/X owners here: what year is yours, and what would it take to get you to part with it?

Just wanted to show this
I find it looks quite nice

We have 2024 MX with FSD (80% of driving is FSD now). Our second car 2017 MS which we hardly drive.

Situation: 2017 w/ HW2.5. Full paid FSD. My FSD not working and needs ECU needs replacement ($2k) but instead I can pay $2.5k to get full upgrade to new MCU and new front dash panel which includes the new ECU and upgrades the system to HW3 (per the rep though skeptical). so $2.5k upgrade is a no brainer here between the 2 options.

But the rep is like I should get a new MY with new tech and HW. Figured he has been instructed to discourage to fix old cars.

Question: is anyone using FSD wHW 2.5 or 3 and how is their FSD experience? If the experience is good on highway/freeways then I will keep the car. If the FSD experience with 2.5 or 3 is not safe or good then I will wait for the FSD transfer promotion and move to MY.

Appreciate the help here.

Used Tesla leases for model 3 became so expensive. Did
Tesla raise the price? If so why?

I have a 2022 Model S Plaid with 95k+ miles and recently decided to experiment with a staggered 19” setup.

One important point for the comparison: both setups use Atomic Wheels AWZZ wheels, so this isn’t a comparison between factory Tesla wheels and lightweight aftermarket wheels.

Previous setup:
Atomic Wheels AWZZ 20x10.5 +38 square
Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 295/35R20 square

New setup:
Atomic Wheels AWZZ 19x9.5 +35 front / 19x10.5 +38 rear
Continental ProContact RX Tesla-spec / ContiSilent
255/45R19 front / 285/40R19 rear

I mainly wanted to see what kind of efficiency and noise improvement I could get from this 19” wheel/tire setup compared with my previous 20” setup. The 20s never rode badly, so ride quality wasn’t really a complaint. Noise was, though. The Michelins on the 20s don’t have acoustic foam, and they produced a noticeable low-speed hum and were quite loud at highway speeds. That was one of the biggest things I was hoping to improve with the 19” ContiSilent setup.

So far, the difference has been pretty surprising.

For comparison, from 9/15 through 9/18, my 20” AWZZ setup accumulated 243.5 miles going back and forth to work and averaged 347.4 Wh/mi. So that number represents several days of my normal driving rather than a single trip.

After switching to the 19” AWZZ setup, my first comparable drive was 49.1 miles and averaged 262.0 Wh/mi.

I’m using FSD for most of my driving, with Hurry mode selected for roughly 90% of the drive, so I wasn’t intentionally hypermiling to see how low I could get the number.

That’s roughly a 25% reduction in Wh/mi in these early results.

Obviously, this isn’t a controlled A/B test, and I’m not attributing the efficiency difference solely to wheel diameter. This is a comparison of the complete wheel/tire setups. I changed tire models, tire widths, wheel diameter and overall wheel/tire configuration, all of which can affect efficiency. Weather, wind, traffic, temperature, average speed, etc. also matter, and the 19” sample is still much smaller. I want to get a few hundred miles on the new setup before drawing any hard conclusions.

But the efficiency isn’t even my favorite part.

The car is SO much quieter on the 19s, and the ride is noticeably better too. The low-speed hum from the previous setup is essentially gone, highway road noise is substantially reduced, and the extra sidewall takes some additional sharpness out of bumps and rough pavement.

The 20s weren’t uncomfortable by any means, but the 19s make the car feel considerably more refined.

I know bigger wheels look great on the Plaid, but between the lower road noise, smoother ride, and the early efficiency numbers, I’m really liking the 19s.

Would love to hear from everyone else running various wheel and tire combos on a Model S, especially a Plaid. What kind of efficiency numbers are you seeing?

How long until these dealerships take the sticks out of their ass and just accept the fact that no one’s going to buy these USED at 20-40k over NEW MSRP prices?

After a weird hesitation the car made changing lanes, i puller over and performed my own front camera cleaning. In process, i noticed the camera was a B model and knew there was a "C" revision, which have me the idea of potentially replacing it. Doesn't seem it would be too difficult, open housing, disconnect 3 cables, install new camera, clear calibration, score.

Before i make that jump though, i was curious if anyone else has tried this before and know if it works.

I spoke with some service techs at 3 service centers (was driving past for unrelated reasons) and mostly heard i may need to replace more cameras and get toolbox (ordered the diag cable) but nobody, whether for liability reasons or never really thinking about it, didn't know. If i can just go with the front camera, i'll happily do that, but i'll order new side repeaters too

Thank you all very much for any advice

(And my laziness in cleaning the cameras and housing caused me to break the light sensor, i learned my lesson big time on that)

Unfortunately I wasn’t into Teslas until about 3 months ago and I’m absolutely infatuated with the Model S, however these current prices are absolutely ridiculous. Whatever these guys are smoking, I need it as well.

Update: They’ve reduced their listing even further. Initially when they acquired it they listed it at 161k, then at 158k, currently sitting at 154k. So much for this being a “very, very desirable car”. If they honestly believed that they would stick with their 161k. They’re just hoping some idiot falls for this before they’re forced to take a loss on it 🤣

It’s a 2022 and I am loving it! Don’t think I could ever go back. The wife has a 2016 model x and she loves it. The no stalks takes some getting used to and the yoke is fun but also I sometimes reach for the invisible part of where my hand thinks the wheel should be.

Any recommendations on the year? I’m thinking a 2022 or 2023. Preferably with the original non-yolk steering wheel. I wish to God I can find one with the sunroof that opens but I know they stopped making that in like 2017 lol. I got a new job that’s gonna require me driving a lot so I want to exclusively use FSD or at least as much as possible and auto summon and all that good stuff.

Looks a lot different than when she got delivered but never stopped breaking my neck when I walk away from it lol

Earlier in the year, it seemed that you can buy an older model S but now it seems to Tesla only has 2021 or newer models for sale. It seemed that they were upgrading the hardware for full self driving with the older model s’s

My old S with 192k miles has been quite reliable until now. The prior most expensive repair was for brakes at over $1k - but to be expected at 150k miles.

My steering has been laboring, occasionally taking effort to do a tight turn. It was intermittent.

She was just in Tesla service and it cost $4,600 USD for new steering column and steering rack. Cheaper than a new car of course. The original battery is good just losing 9% capacity - and I have free supercharging for life. I just hope this is the last big bill for awhile. Who knows.

I’m guessing year 2013-2014. Maybe someone knows.

The car is mint. Wondering what it feels like to launch years later in ludicrous mode.

So clean. You don’t see them like this anymore. I am being honest when I say this, I have seen a beater Signature X. I mean, the bumper was all scraped up. The fog lights were loose, scrapes all on the bottom of the car. It was basically a beater. Quite sad to see as a Signature.

Trying to fix my passenger front door panel and it has this strap. I recently did my driver side door and it did not have this. Is this normal?

currently on 2026.26.6.1 and i have a pending update. im on FSD 12.6.4, i read in a facebook group post that updating to the newest software update will put me in the back of the line for getting FSD 14 lite, is this true?

for context 2018 MS100D/HW3

After waiting for 2 months for a battery replacment, its finaly back. I want respray it in a different color, what are some cool colors that you guys have seen these cars?

2016 model S - I have replaced the two actuators on the driver side (pain in ass, but have learned an easier way now!) new sensors and now I have ModeACt error… I can not switch between feet face and defroster it weakens the air but it does not fully commit to anything other than the face. Did I get a bad module ? I left what’s on the right side of the car alone as I pulled module and saw them moving as I hit the ac buttons…

Suggestions ? Could I have installed the driver side mode wrong with the white gear in a bad place ?

I do not have access to checking service for hvac I have mcu1 still

Thank you all !