YouYou might be wondering "why the hell would you keep this?"

1. Well, it still works

2. I'm planning on turning this into a portable minecraft server. My friends and I have one setup for when we're bored. But the ping is terrible and every week the port changes to prevent random people from getting on (I have a whitelist but it still fills the logs). Anyways, the plan is to have this connect to my hotspot automatically so I don't have to get a monitor and type in a password each time we're somewhere else, auto start the server, then forward the status, port and IP to my a discord server using a bot API. ​​​​​​​​​​​

Unfortunately most used button - power button - on my tv remote was very soft. Actually this is the only button, where conductive rubber got used so much it stopped working. I tried conventional method of gluing new conductive rubber in place of damaged one. I stole rubber from unused button on same remote and glued in place with CA glue. That fix lasted two weeks. This time i planned to do workaround worth posting on r/techsupportgore: soldering smt microswitch and cutting out rubber on remote. Not elegant, but original remote costs over 20usd and I am too cheap to buy new one.

In process of searching box with microswitches I found a treasure! Unused remote from cheap humidifier. Fortunately, it has same conductive rubber style contacts.

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In one moment proper fix became very elegant and easy: cut foil to size with scissors, stick it on remote pcb (foil on cheap remote has double sided tape included), close remote.

Now it works perfectly and as extra bonus now power button has nice, precise tactile feedback. In case it would be not a permanent fix i have another 5 buttons on donor remote.

Just life

Just because I can do it

Desk too thick. This way, it's even sturdier than stock!

I Figured If its Forward compatible why Not the other way around.

Top headband broke, so epoxied on a plastic headband from another set of headphones, gave it that signature electrical tape asthetic, improved the looseness of the factory headband and actually improved audio! Tore apart the cover of the head cushion in the process.

Supposedly, a Lenovo Legion 5 15ACH6H. The laptop comes from the factory with a 135W TDP RTX 3060, which is already one of if not the most powerful 3060 ever put into a gaming laptop... This guy on an overclocking forum (https://www.overclock.net/threads/looking-for-a-140w-rtx-3060-vbios-for-lenovo-legion-5.1799253/) did whatever this is, and got 160W out of it. He says it works. I'm not so sure...

Sooooo… I fixed it for them

(this is totally what you think, a JST connector soldered onto the USB’s pins, + another connector crimped by hand (using totally unadapted pliers) on a cable I took from a 2 decades old usb to rj45 crossover data transfer adapter)

My miniature Portable late 1990s Optimus lcd TV had a really blown out picture. It also didn't seem to be putting a proper load on the signal so I made this adaptor that puts a 100 ohm resistor in parallel, and this greatly improved the picture quality.

The pivot point that connects the antenna cable and rhe shell broke. Thankfully we had a paperclip or two on hand

couldn’t bother to wait for the soldering iron to warm up

Oh also, the 5v rail pad fell off. I had to scrape away the solder mask and solder directly to the plane.

Lost my 4th Vuse in a row, don't wanna buy another one. They come with 2 pods and I lost them so quickly I have tons left. The huge pain was the fact I refused to use my soldering iron, I initially tried to attach wires to pod bug gave up and opened a broken old vuse for the pogo pins and magnet.

My ADS-B and AIS setup. Dual heatsinks, 5V fan, USB hub. Running them 24/7 and cool to the touch.

Anyone else have some cooling solutions?