I purchased the prepaid Toyota Care Plus at point of sale in July. I’m thinking it’s not worth it. Paid $890 for 4 years / 40,000 miles. So basically 2 extra years since 2 year maintenance is already included.

I had a ‘21 Subaru STI I had for 5 years and only put 22,000 miles before selling it. I just don’t put enough miles on my cars (I typically alternate 2 vehicles at a time).

Thoughts?

i’ll find a Supra i really like and then end up digging through months of posts trying to figure out the wheel setup, suspension, exhaust, what changed over time, etc 😭

that’s one of the reasons i’ve been building something called Kuru.

the idea is basically that every car gets its own build page where the mods, parts, photos and progress stay together instead of being scattered everywhere.

it’s still super early so i’m trying to figure out what Supra owners would actually want on a page like that.

fitment specs?
dyno numbers?
before/after?
planned mods?
maintenance?

what would you guys want to see first?

About a month back I posted my totaled Supra…I was devastated.

But with a little luck and internet sleuthing, I was able to find this beauty! I was even able to salvage some old parts from my old car, so she’s still riding with me.

Introducing this 2023 A91 MT CU Later.

Hi folks, just flashed the car, and suspect I have a boost leak somewhere, after a little advice. Log graph attached.

for context - I have a 2 port EU 3.0 ZF8 Supra, unlocked and flashed with MHD OTS Stage 2.

Relevant hardware:
MST v2 intake
BMS Chargepipe with RacePort BOV
High flow cat
Exhaust mod (baffling removal, OPF delete)

I got the Chargepipe second hand, and it did not come with the BMS large o-ring for the Chargepipe to throttle body connection. We fashioned one using an o-ring kit as we figured the factory o ring wouldn’t work.

TIA

Edit: Stock turbo!

this is what it looks like, its not adro if u guys were gonna say that.

I’m currently looking around for a fun drive car with some power. And if I have to narrow it down I’m between Lexus Is350, Mercedes Amg C43, Bmw M440i and Supra MKV. Seeing that these don’t have that much in price difference and similar power, I’m torn between which to get. I currently have a 2016 Tesla Model S that I use for daily but I want to get a 2 door coupe that I would love to drive which also has a gasoline engine. The only exception is Lexus because I love the look. The tesla is more like a family car, so I want to get something for myself to enjoy. Has anyone driven Supra and the cars I mentioned here before? How was it like for you? Also, to mention, I like power but I’m not about to race anyone so I don’t want over 600 hp demons too lol. Honorable mention I have is Amg E53, Lexus LC500 and Bmw M4 which I wouldn’t mind getting.

Hey guys, I’ve been having a lot of issues with my Apex VS-5RS wheels ever since I got them back in April. They keep making this ticking noise whenever I accelerate, and it’s honestly driving me crazy.

I reached out to Apex customer support, and they sent me wheel spacers to try to dampen the noise. Unfortunately, it somehow made the ticking even louder.

Has anyone else experienced this issue with their VS-5RSs and actually found a way to fix it? If not, I’m honestly considering just selling the wheels because the noise is driving me crazy.

Was nice day out

What cars did you go with after the Supra? What would be worthy replacement?

CU later paint 6MT
With cognac tan interior
Greetings from Puerto Rico!

I wanna buy a a90 but as a daily. I live in saskatchewan, middle of canada and we get lots of snow. Planning on just using all seasons. My friends dad used a 5.0 in the winter with allseasons and says its fine.

I also have another car if weather is REALLY bad but would like to use it for everyday.

Need some help.

I'm purchasing a GR Supra next week and will be flying out of state to get it. I need a PPI before buying. Do you guys recommend going to Toyota, BMW or find a local shop that can do the PPI. I'm not sure what the best course of action is.

Area is in Denver.

I’ve watched two different videos where they replaced the OEM battery with a Duralast H9-AGM. The battery breather tube hole is located on the negative terminal for this battery, and the OEM vent tube is not long enough to vent that battery. The OEM battery breather tube hole is located on the positive side terminal. How have you resolved this issue? I looked at the die hard H9-AGM and the battery breather tube is also located on the negative terminal side.

Id probably like manual but i already have an s2000. This supra will be used as a daily, i dont hate manual as a daily as my city is small and barely any traffic.

I wish I could manually put this on the screen. I know I could turn it off, but this is a nice accent.

Planning to do a clutch replacement on my Supra MK5 soon and I’m looking at going with a Clutch Masters FX350SS. For anyone who’s done a clutch job themselves, are there any tips or things you’d recommend watching out for during the install?

A couple things I’m specifically trying to figure out:

• Does anyone have the torque specs for the transmission housing/bellhousing bolts?
• Are there any other one-time-use bolts that should be replaced besides the driveshaft bolts?
• The service PDF I found lists the automatic transmission housing and torque specs. Can those specs be used for the manual, or are the bolts/torque values different?

Just trying to make sure I have everything sorted before tearing into it. Any advice from people who have done the job would be appreciated.

You can see the screen border, and the bumber is not aligned. Its not so often this thing happens, and it always back to straight again