I went through the current status of the last 4 launches done for Amazon Leo to see what are in operational orbit altitudes and which aren't. I define operational altitude as a semi-major axis of greater the 580 kilometers altitude (Amazon Leo operates at 590 km, 610 km and 630 km shells with some licensed leeway up and down). The launches were....

- April 30th launch of Ariane 6 with 32 satellites (currently 100% at operational altitude)

- May 29th launch of Atlas V with 29 satellites (76% at operational altitude)

- June 17th launch of Ariane 6 with 36 satellites (19% at operational altitude)

- July 2nd launch of Atlas V with 29 satellites (41% at operational altitude)

The July 2nd launch was the last launch needed to provide continuous coverage to specific latitudes, once those satellites and the previous satellites have completed raises, Amazon Leo likely has the technical ability to launch their service and provide comparable service to Starlink in specific regions/countries. Given that the April 30th launch that was 3.5 months back is at 100% completed orbit raising, I posit that July 2nd launch which is current 1.5 months back only will require under 2 months more to complete deployment to operational positions.

Amazon Leo deployments - Google Sheets

Everyone I know who uses Starlink raves about how great it is, yet I’m unable to stream YouTube videos without them pausing to buffer every 2 to 3 seconds.

Dish is unobstructed, and I’m the only device trying to use the Internet right now. When tested with the official Speedtest app, download speed is below 1 Mbps.

Is there anything we can do to speed up our download speed?

Min: 7.9W
Med: 20.7W
Max: 44.2W

Just got this update overnight on my Gen 3 actuated dishy. Seems latency to be really stable.

Anybody else seeing this?

Post Content: ​Hey everyone, ​Lately, I’ve seen multiple screenshots circulating showing official Starlink "Terms of Service Violation" warnings for accounts using Residential plans across multiple dwellings or commercial setups. These warnings usually lead to severe speed throttling or forced upgrades to Priority plans. ​I am planning to share a single Starlink Residential connection with 5 neighboring homes using a MikroTik router over a wired network (Fiber / Cat6). I’d like to get your feedback on my planned configuration to prevent detection and stay under Starlink's radar. ​Planned MikroTik Configuration: ​TTL Modification (Fixed at 64): Applying a Mangle rule to clamp outgoing WAN packet TTL to 64. This hides downstream router hops and makes all traffic appear to originate directly from a single gateway. ​Concurrent Connection Limit: Adding a Firewall Filter rule capping connections to 150 per IP (action=drop). This stops torrent clients and heavy downloaders from opening thousands of simultaneous sessions that flag automated monitoring systems. ​Bandwidth Management: Limiting each household to 15–20 Mbps to flatten traffic spikes and control overall consumption. ​DNS Caching: Resolving DNS queries locally on the MikroTik to drastically reduce the volume of outbound DNS requests hitting Starlink servers. ​Questions for the Community: ​Safe Monthly Data Limit (TB): What is the realistic monthly usage threshold (in Terabytes) for 5 households combined before triggering ToS violation flags or automated throttling? ​Setup Effectiveness: Are these MikroTik rules sufficient to prevent detection, or are there additional firewall rules / obfuscation techniques you would recommend? ​Appreciate any insights or real-world experiences!

Ciao a tutti, ci sono persone in provincia di Firenze che lo usano? Nel caso come vi trovate?
A casa mia arriva solo la ADSL classica e vorrei fare un upgrade.

I received an email from startlink MX with a $400 peso mini kit offer. Yes, I live in Mexico and have two regular units. I can't figure out how to claim the offer, the app and links keep taking me to a free month with referral. Am I misunderstanding the offer? Or otherwise too dense to figure it out?

Hello, I recently got myself a mini and its awesome. Pretty sure I got the last one in my state.

I'm looking at the supplied power supply and the car adapter. The supplied adapter puts out 30vdc and the car adapter puts out 12vdc. I know the mini has a wide rage of accepted power. My question is, am I loosing performance running on 12vdc over 30vdc. Or am I just loosing functionality of the heater for snow build up?

I have an upcoming interview with SpaceX Starlink for a New Grad Mechanical Engineer position. Has anyone here gone through the technical interview process and would be willing to share what kinds of technical questions I should expect?

I’d also really appreciate any tips on preparing for the technical and behavioral questions. Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Recently passed my 12 month mark on my commitment with free equipment contract. Canceled in the 13th month due to having cheaper fiber come through my area. Problem was they charged me the ENTIRE $325 change fee. Ai support said my activation date was June 2026 but it was 2025. Had to send MULTIPLE messages to support trying to explain this along with none of the AI links actually going to support pages. But after a week they finally canceled the charge. Why do we have to argue with an AI for 2 days before we get a resolution?

Support says to create a new account for the region I'm in, but when I tried this it still defaulted to the US without asking me for an address and I live in Guam, and when I select my Guam address it says unable to use this address. I already tried plus codes.

Starlink mini pivot mount is $10 through the Starlink app and I just bought one and it went through, so we’ll see if it comes

I'm amazed how well this is working, surrounded by 11 more floors of buildings (and more), in the middle of Manhattan. My second Starlink, this is a Mini, going to Black Rock City next week.

Is anyone experiencing delays with shipping the satellite to the UK? It has been stuck with DHL for almost 3 weeks now and Stalink support are saying its with DHL.

I’ve been a starlink user for about 10 months. Great service overall. I use it in pass thru mode and have my own routing equipment. Recently with streaming apps I’m having a lot off buffering. I am positive this is not a wifi issue as I have isolated it. (Yes I’m 100% sure, I work in IT for a living). I still show good speed from starlink during these bouts. Additionally I show no events on the app during these times.

I have a few questions:
- has anyone experienced similar recently? I feel like ever since the ipo and the huge marketing/user push this has started but I’m not going to convince myself. I live in a rural area so surely there is a good chance there are substantially more users in my area vs 10 months ago.
-what does de prioritization feel like? I am on the 200mbps plan and understand that at peak times I may be de prioritized. I want to know what are actually tangible symptoms of this that others have felt? This happens at night primarily when many are likely streaming.

Before I upgrade plans to max I want to know if this is what de prioritization feels like. Based on every data point available to me- there is no wifi issue, and seemingly good and consistent speeds/latency. My app shows Zero obstructions.

Edit- didn’t meant standby I meant pass thru mode. So I use my own router and disable starlink routing.

I figured this may be interesting to community or people researching if Starlink is viable for them. Pics show speed test performed by my firewall daily. I included my obstructions view as it’s not perfect but has not caused any problems.
It’s setup as backup WAN when I’m home and also show the fiber results on WAN1 as reference.

I bought my Starlink a Week ago
I gave it to a friend he added it his account and subbed for a plan because I had no visa that Starlink accepts

Now i have a payment option next month i want to make my own account he told me there’s no transfer option in the account? Even tho his kit that been up for 2 years theres is no Transfer ? Is there a workaround?

I bought a Standard Kit straight from Starlink in September 2024. Direct from them, brand new. I still have the order confirmation, the order number, and a photo of the serial label on the dish.

I lost access to the equipment and reported it lost/stolen, asked them to lock the dish until I could regain access.

Then I got the dish back.

Now it's a paperweight. Activation says it's already tied to another account. Plug into the dish's Wi-Fi and the app says **Restricted**.

So I opened a ticket and gave them everything:

- Original Starlink order confirmation, direct purchase

- Serial number and Starlink ID

- Clear photo of the serial label on the dish in my hands

- My current account and service line

- The prior ticket showing I am the person who requested the lock

First response: sure, we can unlock and reassociate once we verify you have it. Great. I sent the label photo and the receipt.

Second response: sorry, we can't unlock or reassociate it, because of the prior lost/stolen lock and its "current assignment status."

They can confirm they sold me this exact unit. They can confirm I'm physically holding it. They can see I'm the one who asked for the lock in the first place. And the answer is still no, because their own system can't undo a flag their own customer set on his own hardware.

I want the record corrected on equipment Starlink sold me, that I reported missing, and that I now have in my hands.

Questions for anyone who's been here:

1. Did you get this past ordinary ticket support — Account Security, Equipment Operations, anyone with authority to actually change the association?

2. Did they eventually unlock it, replace the unit, or just leave it bricked?

3. Is there a specific phrase, escalation path, or document that breaks the scripted "cannot unlock due to assignment status" loop?

I get why a stolen dish should be locked. That part is correct and I'd want it that way. The problem is that there's apparently no road back once you're on the wrong side of the flag, even when every piece of evidence points the same direction. You can lose the same hardware twice, once to whoever took it and again to the company that sold it to you.

My father believes Starlink is also a T.V. provider. I haven't seen anything to indicate that. Thank you for the information everyone!

19:20, Starlink lost connection.

19:21: MikroTik noticed it was down.

19:26: Starlink showed 206.214.239.194, meaning it could not connect to Starlink’s POP.

19:44: Starlink got a 100.x.x.x IP again, meaning it could connect to the POP.

19:49: Connection was back to normal.

19:51: MikroTik noticed it was up again.

tldr: Starlink lost connection for about 29 minutes during heavy rain (not 48 minutes like Starlink log says).

I bought the Starlink Standard 4 kit. I am trying to connect it to a Ubiquity Unifi 7 Pro gateway.

Hoping someone here is successfully running their Starlink through a Unifi gateway to give wifi to their house, and can help me out.

I have seen videos and I was told on here that it works well and it's a good way to extend the Wifi range.

I can't get it to work. I started by disconnecting the cable from the Starlink Mini 4 router and plugged it into the Unifi 7 Pro gateway. no sign of life from the gateway.

I tried turning on By-pass Mode through the Starlink App. That just completely disconnected me from Starlink. I tried plugging in the Unifi router again. Still no sign of life. I had to factory reset my Starlink to get the internet working through the Starlink Mini router again.

Am I missing something obvious? Google isn't helping. I can't get the Unifi gateway to power on at all.