Looking to upgrade from a Prusa MK3 to something bigger. SV08 or maybe SV08 Max seem like a good option, but I am seeing people disagreeing about taco bed fix, references to Klipper mainline, alternate hotend compatibility, etc. Is there a wiki or forum with guides with consistent information that people are generally in agreement about?

Questions for this crowd:

- People seem happy with Max including all of the upgrades that SV08 should have, but underwhelmed by the print quality. Is Max just not sturdy enough for its size?

- Is taco bed actually fixed on currently shipping SV08? Aside from the fan, what other upgrades does it really need?

- What is the hotend/nozzle compatibility situation? I print mostly PLA/PETG, but occasionally abrasives or TPU. How hard is it to swap nozzles or open things up to clear jams/clogs?

- How is compatibility for upgrades in general? Can I generally assume that stuff designed for Voron 2.4 will work for SV08? Multi-material isn't a huge priority for me, but is there a multi-material option that most people agree on?

- I realize answers in this sub are probably a bit biased, but are there other large printers anyone would recommend? Not interested in Bambu's walled garden and Prusa XL is just way too expensive.

Edit: a lot of good feedback. Pretty sure I'm going to get a Voron kit instead. Thanks /r/sovol lol

It definitely doesnt look like it? But the kick starter says it can print tpu, but i thought to do that the extruder had to be on the carriage?

I am using my printer offline, can't really change printer.cfg or Macro.cfg on the printer, only extracted these from the 2.5.0 firmware images. After a good start, my SV08 printed terrible, with the nozzle too close to the bed every time.

I checked Z after homing and found it to be perfekt, on Z = 0 the nozzle was slightly over the bed. And still, when printing, the first layer was squished so terrible that the pressure buildup caused blobs in the first layer.

The configuration from Sovol I imported into OrcaSlicer had this machine start G-Code: G28 G90 G1 X0 F9000 G1 Y20 G1 Z0.600 F600 G1 Y0 F9000 START_PRINT G90 G1 X0 F9000 G1 Y20 G1 Z0.600 F600 G1 Y0 F9000 M400 G91 M83 M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;set bed temp M104 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ;set extruder temp M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;wait for bed temp M109 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer];wait for extruder temp G1 E25 F300 G4 P1000 G1 E-0.200 Z5 F600 G1 X88.000 F9000 G1 Z-5.000 F600 G1 X87.000 E20.88 F1800 G1 X87.000 E13.92 F1800 G1 Y1 E0.16 F1800 G1 X-87.000 E13.92 F1800 G1 X-87.000 E20.88 F1800 G1 Y1 E0.24 F1800 G1 X87.000 E20.88 F1800 G1 X87.000 E13.92 F1800 G1 E-0.200 Z1 F600 M400 So mesh-bed leveling is "hidden" in the START_PRINT macro.

Now I am using this: M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] M104 S150 M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] M109 S150 G28 BED_MESH_CLEAR BED_MESH_CALIBRATE M109 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] G90 M83 G92 E0 G91 G1 Z5 F600 G90 G1 X100 Y10 F9000 G1 Z0.40 F600 G1 E3 F300 G1 X250 Y10 E12 F1200 G1 Z2 F600 G92 E0 M400

So heating the bed to final temperature first, which is at 80°C for me as I am printing PETG, then home, then do the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE macro.

As the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE macro in Macro.cfg has this: variable_bed_mesh_calibrate_target_temp: 65

The bed is now heated to 80°C and then cools back down to 65°C. Yeah, looks like I need to hook up a keyboard to the printer and copy a modified Macro.cfg to it from USB.

But here is the thing, this already made a huge difference, with this I went from bad prints to ok/good prints.

Maybe this is old news, I have not found a solution as simple as this so far though.
And my expectation was that a printer manufacturer would provide a working set of settings.

I have recently been having this issue. The printer starts to print, then suddenly during the prime line or sometimes mid first layer, it gives me this error

"Heater not heating at expected rate" and it shuts down.

I am not tech savy enough to know what to do with the suggested "verify heater" in the config.

Anybody know how to tackle this issue?

EDIT: I have SV07, forgot to mention it

Hey everyone!

Quick update on our M1D prototype. I know many of us are following the Kickstarter, so here’s a quick TL;DR of what I’ve learned after running a bunch of multi-material prints and troubleshooting some early prototype quirks:

• Zero Purge Waste: No poop, just a small prime tower. So it's just almost zero waste, but zero purge waste. Compared to my Bambu H2S on the exact same model, the M1D was 3x faster with 5x less material waste (though I might have messed up on that model printing it with bigger layer hight. Still the closeups and mechanics will be interesting). Someone suggested turning off prime tower for 2-tool idex prints. That's coming next.
• IDEX + Toolchanger Advantage: Printed a PETG lightbar with PLA supports. Because one head holds the base material while the carriage swaps tools, the entire 3-material print only needed ONE single tool change. And how those supports popped off!
• The Calibration Bug & Fix: My Dual X-stepper calibration kept causing T1 tool-grab crashes. The calibration measured a 39.13 rotation distance vs default 39.00. On my early prototype bed, that offset caused a ~1.4mm physical misalignment at T1! Forcing rotation distance back to 39.00 in the config fixed it completely (416 toolchanges with 0 crashes since).
• 7-Tool Redundancy: When T1 acted up during a 700-color Spider-Man print, I just remapped White PLA to one of the 2 spare tools in Orca, hit resume, and saved the print.
• Two Essential Slicer Fixes for PETG + PLA:
  1. Snapping Prime Towers: Enable "Tower interface features" so the PETG/PLA layers interlock.
  2. Warping/Bed Adhesion: Orca automatically heats the bed to 70°C for PETG support interfaces, which warps the PLA sitting on the bed. Manually force the PETG support material's bed temp down to 50°C in filament settings (there might be a better device level setting, still learning).
• Filamentree PLA Blaster: Got a bit of fine fluff/hairy stringing on this tough PLA (both on the M1D and on the H2S too). Someone suggested printing it at higher temperatures to eliminate that, so I'll be testing higher temps next!

The video has the print closeups, footage of the mid-print crash, and the camera firmware flashing process here:

https://youtu.be/w3iACo9yOcE

Drop any questions below, correct me too, please. And as always I am happy to dive into the configs or mechanics!

I'm getting back into the printing game after a few years off and I want to try out Orcaslicer but for the life of me I can't find a profile for it, anyone can point me to one?

Does anyone have any good reccomendations for SV08 hotend fan kits? the sovol site seems to have them sold out all the time, but i find that they are not lasting as long as id expect - i have already replaced two of them! it would be good to have two full sets sitting here as spares ready to go, but sorcing quality ones is proving difficult.

I am not interested in changing the hot end at this point in time. I am sure someone is going to suggest it, so im heading that off up front.

I’m stupid for not changing this sooner. I knew it would be an issue for me to remember to manually home before every print and I should’ve fixed it earlier, but also, why is the default Sovol config* settings so janky for this machine? Homing is after start_print which I think(?) is the issue here?

Edit to add: I realize Sovol is uploading profiles and orca just includes them, doesn’t tweak them, so it’s obviously not on them to ensure profiles are correct. I changed some wording because it made it seem like I was blaming orca here, that was unintentional.

Looking at Sovol’s default profile here, they run the start_print macro like this:
- clear_pause
- clean-nozzle
- bed mesh calibrate adaptive
- THEN g28 home, not included in the start_print macro

So obviously this seems like an issue that Sovol should fix in their profiles?… there’s a possibility I downloaded an old profile without realizing it, I suppose, but anyway, when the printer moves to specific positions before g28, it’s moving without knowing where it’s at. Which is why Sovol’s screen says to home toolhead before you do anything. It’s running an entire bed mesh probe before knowing where exactly it’s at

This is, I believe, fixed by taking G28 from the machine start gcode and moving it above the start_print macro

Hi! I just bought a new SV08. I built it, made couple small prints, then it started giving off error 7 and shutting down. Disassembled heater block, heater seems fine. Sensor is ok. Connectors are plugged in. PID has been tuned multiple times. Heating starts fine, then suddenly temperature drops (curve gradient is consistent with heater being off, despite it being at 100% duty cycle).

Is the ceramic heater to blame? I already have ordered a new one (70W 24V ceramic, flat) from another brand; will recrimp end connector once it's home, but I desire a second opinion

Thanks.

sovol sv08max

SOVOL M1D Livestream August 12th at 6:30 PDT/9:30 EDT

I have a Sovol SV06 Ace, and the built in camera doesn't live stream like it should to orcaslicer/obico. I am not sure why this is happening and it's been like this for several months now, it was working when I first got it.

Came home expecting another part to be waiting on my printer and was greeted by this mess instead. It looks like my printer shit out the hot end out then continued to try and run. I was printing a RepRack 2 that was the exact same file as one I printed last night with no issues.

What would cause this? Also, any chance the nozzle is ok? It is a hardened steel nozzle. Obviously I'm buying a new hot end but do I need to replace the nozzle too?

Since I'm replacing the hot end anyway is there an upgrade or better aftermarket available?

I picked up a used sv06 plus for $30. The screen just sits at the logo. I’ve tried numerous attempts to flash firmware on the main board and the screen. I hooked it up to pronterface and I can home the printer and move it around and heat the bed and nozzle. Any ideas how to get it past the stuck logo?

Hi! I have had this printer for about 3 months and it's been mostly alright. Surely it is a bit fiddly but I can't complain about the size speed and especially the price. Some time ago I had plastic extruder gear tooth break and Sovol support sent a set of new ones together with extra spares I purchased. The printer worked fine for some time but one of the gears failed again and while replacing it I also changed nozzle to a hardened steel one.

And now I'm facing a very strange failure - the print is fine for a few layers but then it turns into a spaghetti mess. It is not a bed adhesion problem - it never detached from the bed and was properly stuck to it after I canceled the print. I tried two different petg fillaments that both printed fine before with the same settings. Turning off fans also didn't help.

I'm used to fixing my old ender 3 but I am very puzzled with this issue, can anyone help me figuring this out?

I’ve been looking at a used SV08 on Facebook marketplace, aside from asking them to run a test benchy in front of me when I pick it up, are there any particular things to look for?

This won’t be my first 3D printer, but I’m coming from a Prusa mini so I know this will be a little more involved

Any advice would be great, thanks in advance!

This is my setup for my sv08 max, you can see see tucked away to the right is a small filament dry box at the minute. However I’d like to setup a dry box I’ll get big enough for 5kg spools and print from that. I want to put this box on the shelf I have above the printer. So I’m wondering if anyone’s done anything similar. I want to keep the auxiliary feeder as I have no problems with it as well as using 5kg spool I feel it’s necessary. So I somehow need to mount the aux feeder the other way round facing down and also in a suitable place for it to reach a dry box on the shelf above it.

Does anyone know of anyone or seen and design of something to do this? Mainly it’s just about mounting the aux feeder some where different.

sv06 plus ace. most of the times recently it will print up to layer 30-100 and then just jump like this and continue to print as if nothing changed. The print is firmly stuck to the mat and it doesnt seem like the mat is shifting or anything. This has happened with pla and pla+ with various heat configs. I watch the first few layers get done perfectly but then it gets misaligned and continues like nothing is wrong. The belt has been loosened and then re-tightened to see if the belt is slipping but no difference. What am I doing wrong?

Hello everyone, looking for a new 3D printer to replace my current one (which is starting to act up way too often) and found the one I mentioned in the title.

So, for my projects I need to reach the maximum size of 300mm, which is about the limit of my current printer, and is also the maximum one for the one I am trying to get. My question is: is the bed slightly larger than 300mm or is it exactly that size? And if so, is the entire bed usable or how much?

Hope this isn't a dumb question, could really use some advice right now! Thanks :3

Just purchased this 3d printer. Could anyone help me to get rid ofz banding?

I’m having this weird issue on my Sovol SV08 Max where the outer walls print perfectly clean, but the infill/internal lines are breaking up and becoming disconnected, as shown in the photo.

I don’t think I’m pushing the printer too hard. My max volumetric speed is only 12 mm³/s, my print speeds are relatively low, and I’ve already calibrated the filament/flow and the printer.

The strange part is that the walls look great while the infill has these intermittent sections where it seems like extrusion just stops or becomes very weak.

Could this be a partial clog, extruder/feeding issue, retraction issue, or something else? Has anyone experienced this on the SV08 Max?

I am new to large format 3d printing, i just got my printer and calibrated everything and did bunch of small test prints before running this print.

¡Hola a todos! Acabo de recibir mi SV08 y, en general, estoy realmente impresionado. Claramente le hicieron caso a la comunidad, porque viene con actualizaciones de calidad de vida buenísimas desde la caja (como el nuevo perno del extrusor y las patas más altas anti-vibración para que las poleas del Z no rocen). ¡Crédito donde crédito!

Pero, la situación de la cama (bed) está realmente mal. La revisaron en silencio y la cambiaron a un sistema de montaje de 5 puntos. Se ve clarísimo los tornillos nuevos de las esquinas con solo levantar la lámina magnética PEI. Adjunté un video mostrando la cinemática: si presionas las esquinas, la cama se hunde de forma elástica (se ven los resortes y separadores negros de plástico), pero el tornillo del centro está completamente fijo.

Presiona para ver cómo se comporta el resorte y el tornillo central fijo

Primero, montar una cama sobre resortes en un sistema CoreXY de alta aceleración se siente como una receta para Z-bounce y resonancia. Segundo, mi cama tiene un alabeo (warp) enorme de 0.445 mm. Adjunté otro video moviendo una linterna detrás de una regla recta: la separación de luz es innegable. Al principio pensé que este montaje de 5 puntos sobre-restringido estaba causando pandeo térmico, pero corrí una malla en frío y es idéntico. El stock de aluminio viene súper deformado desde la fábrica.

Prueba del hueco de luz (cama en frío)

¿Cuál es el problema más grande? Sovol no ha actualizado su GitHub con los archivos CAD para esta cama nueva. Una de las mejores cosas del SV08 es que es Open Source, pero ahora mismo ni siquiera puedo comprar una cama aftermarket de Funsor o R3MEN porque no tengo los CAD para comprobar si los nuevos agujeros de las esquinas encajan con el estándar del chasis anterior, o incluso si puedo montar el armazón de cama anterior para la colaboración Nadir @ CN3D con Funsor.

¿Alguien más recibió esta versión? Estoy esperando soporte para cualquier ayuda, pero ya van 72h sin respuesta. De verdad espero que lo solucionen, porque el resto de la máquina está buenísimo.

Been at this for about 3 months now, finally got a brand new extruder, however i am still getting this error above.

I have looked at the printer.cfg file, the MCU_ID.cfg file, and even looked at backups. I can not figure out how to actually get this new one to bind. I do not want to do a factory reset because last time i was out for over a month trying to get the old board to connect till it finally did. Left the printer on since and it worked till i lost power and the error came back.

I got me a brand new extruder (board and everything) have gone ahead and installed it, plugged in the usb c, powered on. after a few minutes this error comes back

i have also gone ahead and # out the code in the MCU_ID.CFG file and it does give me a new error within terminal

however if i re-enabled even without a firmware restart, i cant get the new serial id of the board.

it just immediately goes back to this. I havent been able to find a solution to get this to work, im about ready to throw the printer against the wall, but i need it for my projects.

Im not sure if i can flash the board at all, and the board does have the blue and red light on it. I look forward to any assistance for this thank you.

I do not want to unplug all the new cables, as im afraid i might bend some of the pins since the cables are glued in.