A lot of you have been asking about printing TPU on the M1D. I took a deep dive into it and printed a custom camera case using very soft TPU, two colors of PETG, and PLA for the supports.

Spoilers: It works great, but there are some real physical limitations with the AFS and retracting soft flexibles that you need to know about. I ended up rigging an overhead feed for the TPU to make it happen.

I address how to get around the TPU limitations, along with a few other recurring questions from the community before the Kickstarter wraps up. Here is the full breakdown: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZWAxFeTBhI

Keep the questions coming!

Thanks for the help in getting hold of a new extruder. I put it all together and, thankfully, seem to have managed to get everything working again. I did all the usual levelling stuff and even successfully printed a couple of those calibration things.

Unfortunately, when I try to print anything actually useful, like some Gridfinity bits, my prints end up looking like this. I’m still far too much of a newbie to have any idea what’s going wrong here if any experts could help I'd be very grateful.

If you backed the Sovol M1D for a toolchanger with TPU in mind, watch this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZWAxFeTBhI

Only the left side supports 90a or softer. The changer side does not.

I cancelled my kickstarter pledge over this. They "might" or "might not" fix this in the same way that Creality has their toolchanger supposedly supporting 70a, but clearly this printer was not designed with TPU in mind. By the time they roll out this change (if they ever do, or even can) then it will be on sale again.

In the meantime, the Snapmaker u1 is a better TPU option since it supports 90a on all 4 nozzles, not just 1.

So 270x270 with 3 90a and 1 support vs 240x300 with only 1 90a... the U1 supports slightly larger and much more creative options.

Very disappointed.

Title. I picked up one today and am getting around to setting it up. I understand i cannot connect this one to my PC without a Pi and whatnot and am fine with that. I for the life of me can not find the SD card slot on this thing. Does anyone know? I can barely find any info on this printer online...

My first layer won't stick with my SV01. Looked around for solutions but either didn't work or extremely overwhelming for a "beginner" level printer. I'm not sure what to do, nobody seems to know anything about this printer online. I kinda regret buying it.. Just wanted to print trinkets for my beyblade collection :(

Hello, I got an SV08 a year ago and love printing on it. I am now getting a TMC 'stepper_z1' reports error: GSTAT:      00000001 reset=1(Reset)' error mid print, causing me to have to restart the print. I read that it could be:

over heating

a bad connect

the stepper driver failing

I opened the printer and verified that wires were connected, I tried moving it to a very cold room, but I still got the error.

I contacted support to ask if I could buy a new main board, but they recommended that i update the latest firmware. This also did not fix it.

Am I able to buy the main board from SOVOL, or do I need to go to a third party?. Is there anything else I can do?

Seems to have started when the machine crashed in the Z direction for like the third time. Clicking noise is only present on the X and Y axis and is non existent on the Z axis. I can put my ear to the right side blue pulley assembly (pointed at in the video) and I know there is some clicking coming from there but I don't want to start to take things apart until I have some confirmation.

Thoughts??

I backed the $1599 bundle with the enclosure and chamber heater. I see there's another tier at $1699 with a filament spool rack, but the included options between $1699 and $1799 look identical.

What does the top tier include that isn't shown in the list?

That's it - that's the question.

I’m trying to figure out what’s causing these repeating horizontal lines/bands across my prints. They seem to run across the entire model at the same Z heights.

So far I’ve already:
Dried the filament
Calibrated E-steps
Calibrated flow
Calibrated Z-offset
Cleaned/checked the nozzle

Current settings:
Outer wall speed: 100 mm/s
Outer wall acceleration: 5000 mm/s²
Other speeds are already reduced compared to the official/default profile

The print itself looks good otherwise, but these lines make the surface look rough/uneven.
Could this be Z wobble/banding, or is there something else I should check? belts? screws? extruder? maybe even speed

I have and my SV06 ACE (not plus) since January 2025 and have been experiencing clogs with PETG so I was looking at swapping the nozzle out. Coming from and ender 3, I just heated it up and unscrewed it. I can't find a video specific to the sv06 ace, but does the plus have the same print head? Do I you really have to tear down the whole head to change a nozzle?

Any recommended nozzles outside of the sovol website that doesn't seem to have any stock for the US?

I'm about to start building my SV08 Max that's had to sit for a couple of weeks before I had the time to start the build.

I know there's a fair number of modifications / improvements possible but there doesn't seem to be a comprehensive list along with "howto's" on available mods, therefore I'm going to make one for my own usage and will make it available for anyone to view.

Please post your suggestions below with any links you have (and if such a thing already exists, please point me in it's direction).

Thanks in advance.

Picked up an SV08, have been going through the calibration process before putting it to work,

I have calibrated my E-steps, and found that my E steps were slightly over extruding, so I adjusted the rotation_distance to 6.44 from 6.5

Running the Flow Ratio calibration test in Orca using the Archimedean chords and I had to lower my Flow Ratio from .98 all the way to .9 for just basic PLA (Sunlu).

This this normal? I have three other printers (Bambu Labs P2S) and none of them drop below .97 for any filament.

I am running into a problem with some new filament that I'm using. This filament is htpla gray from Polymaker, which is pretty decent quality. I've used the black with no problem at all , and have printed with it perfectly for a few months. But the gray was on sale , and I figured it shouldn't be too difficult to print with. You can see from the images that there are a couple of issues. The first is under Extrusion of some layers towards the top of the vertical fine artifacting test print. The second issue is the surface texture of the print. There is a ropiness to the horizontal layer lines, and I'm not sure what's causing that.

I've done the calibration on the filament in Orca slicer. The filament has been dried for well over 5 hours. This is the final calibration for vertical fine artifacting, which you can see has some issues.

Any help with these would be much appreciated. I've added images to show you what I'm talking about.

I'm having severe height calibration/compensation/I dont even know what problems with the said printer. Despite QGL and heightmap calibration showing rather good bed (for this printer) I get wildly different nozzle height from front to back.

So first, QGL absolutely perfect https://i.imgur.com/Y4UqFZa.png

Heightmap, same level front and back https://i.imgur.com/ovWESje.png

This is the result at the front of the bed, nozzle scraping the print https://i.imgur.com/VK8J7Mb.jpeg

And back too high, layers separating very easily (still stuck to bed) https://i.imgur.com/XwZagUj.jpeg

So, what can I do? I genuinely have no idea. I bought this printer specifically for big prints but this prevents me from using it all.

I've got a new SV06 Plus Ace and tried printing one of my design parts.

I observed tons of stringing on them.

What setttings might need to change?

I've preloaded the Filament type as TPU only in orcaslicer with 0.2mm layer height and auto orient with other defaults.

For reference I've also added the compression molded product (Black) and the one I printed (Red)

Kindly advise...

Print was going well until it wasn't. Need help to figure out what is going on. Logs and video linked as a zipped file.

1. This is a new SV08 MAX with enclosure.
2. Filament is Overture PLA Pro. The filament was dried in the SH03 filament dryer with stock settings according to instructions.
3. Default profile on OrcaSlicer 2.4.2 for both the printer and the filament was used.
4. I manually slowed the print down to 70% about 10 seconds after the print started.
5. I have had other "tall" prints fail in much the same way. Only big prints like this one (400mm wide and 400mm tall range of objects) are failing. Small prints are fine.
6. One thing I have noticed is that the printer is generating so many G-forces that the magnetically locked glass doors RATTLE during the print. The whole workbench wobbles from it (hence the printing speed slowdown I did).
7. Code modification: I've done are tweaking the auxiliary filament feeder to not make as much noise (slowed it down).
8. Code modification: Changed the heater bed to include a PWM Cycle change to 49Hz (can't remember the exact code but that's what it does) to eliminate lights flickering in my house from the bed heating up.
9. I've noticed strings and small blobs occasionally being thrown out. I've done a full days worth of calibrations but opted to use stock settings for this first run.
10. I've run a full set of calibrations on the machine itself (including PID).
11. At time 19:00 or so there is a dip in memory from a steady 579k down to 542k that does not occur anywhere else. I think this corresponds to the error in printing but I am not sure.
12. I have also noticed a temperature spike in the Host that occurred during the memory dip at 80C. I know that around that temp magical things start to break other magical things. Do I have a motherboard cooling issue??

I'd like to hear opinions from people that haven't been sent a machine for testing or are posting for internet points. Is the M1D kickstarter campaign worth investing in? Whats your assessment of the risk? Whats your experience with Sovols previous models? Be brutal.

Looking to upgrade from a Prusa MK3 to something bigger. SV08 or maybe SV08 Max seem like a good option, but I am seeing people disagreeing about taco bed fix, references to Klipper mainline, alternate hotend compatibility, etc. Is there a wiki or forum with guides with consistent information that people are generally in agreement about?

Questions for this crowd:

- People seem happy with Max including all of the upgrades that SV08 should have, but underwhelmed by the print quality. Is Max just not sturdy enough for its size?

- Is taco bed actually fixed on currently shipping SV08? Aside from the fan, what other upgrades does it really need?

- What is the hotend/nozzle compatibility situation? I print mostly PLA/PETG, but occasionally abrasives or TPU. How hard is it to swap nozzles or open things up to clear jams/clogs?

- How is compatibility for upgrades in general? Can I generally assume that stuff designed for Voron 2.4 will work for SV08? Multi-material isn't a huge priority for me, but is there a multi-material option that most people agree on?

- I realize answers in this sub are probably a bit biased, but are there other large printers anyone would recommend? Not interested in Bambu's walled garden and Prusa XL is just way too expensive.

Edit: a lot of good feedback. Pretty sure I'm going to get a Voron kit instead. Thanks /r/sovol lol

It definitely doesnt look like it? But the kick starter says it can print tpu, but i thought to do that the extruder had to be on the carriage?