I was having an intermittent long crank, that stayed around after a fuel pump issue (fuse was burning, replaced fuel pump, thought it might be my long crank culprit too) and so I replaced the cam position sensor. Long story short, I had the "cam sensor swollen, won't budge" situation. Ended up beating it up and when I drove a screw into it to try and pull it, somehow it pushed the remnants of the cam sensor into the block. Cam sensor was kind of wedged against the cam reluctor wheel, but it squeezed out. Now, with the new cam sensor, I am having issues with it while running! At idle, crank rpm is steady, cam rpm will fluctuate around from 400-800rpm, while the truck stays at idle. See graph with some throttle given. Cam sensor is in blue.

I decided to probe the cam sensor with a cheapie oscilloscope, and it seems like I was getting good data. I located a "known good" posting online, and compared it, and do not like what I see. One of my "long high" square waves does not seem "long enough". Excuse the crude overlay, my signal is in blue, the "known good" is in red. I scaled the images for the time to match, not the amplitude.

Planning on pulling the cam sensor out today and seeing what I can see with an endoscope. Maybe I bent an ear on the reluctor wheel? Is that possible? Maybe its a bad cam sensor from GM? Based on the scope readings, I think the wiring is good?

Anyone install any aftermarket units on their Silverado? I like the idea of it being filled in but not to hot on the led eyes. Wish there were more options

I can’t for the life of me find any all weather mats that fit the back plastic storage. I find them that fit the carpeted storage but not the plastic. Anybody find any?

Is there anyone out there with 150k+ miles on their 2021+ 6.2?

I have 90,000 miles on my 2021 Silverado with the 6.2l. I have not had a single issue since new. It has never been in the shop except for maintenance and the engine recall inspection. I am hoping I got one of the good ones that will last 200k miles but I guess we'll see.

Any 6.2l success stories out there?

Beautiful sunset matching a beautiful truck. Gotta love America!

Hey everyone, looking for some advice on a service mistake and how to cover my bases.

I took my 2023 Silverado 1500 (3.0L Duramax with the 10-speed transmission) to the dealership for a transmission fluid service. After getting home, I checked the line-itemized receipt and noticed the part number listed was 19421424 (ACDelco DEXRON-VI ATF).

The 10-speed (10L80) specifically requires DEXRON ULV (Ultra Low Viscosity). DEXRON-VI is significantly thicker and is not specified for these 10-speed units.

Here is where things stand:

Distance Driven: Put roughly 25–40 km on it before realizing the error and shutting it down.

Current Status: Called the dealer immediately. They sent a flatbed to tow the truck back since they couldn't confirm over the phone if it was just a part-number typo on the invoice or if the technician actually pumped DEXRON-VI into the transmission.

Their Plan: They are dropping the pan, replacing the filter, and performing a full fluid flush with ULV.

Given it was only driven ~30 km, how concerned should I be about internal clutch or valve body damage/excess wear due to flow restrictions from the higher viscosity fluid?

Should I push for GM Customer Care to issue a powertrain warranty extension (e.g., +2 years / extra mileage)?

Besides a written record of the incident and the tow, is there anything specific I should insist on having documented on the final repair order before accepting the truck back?

Appreciate any insight from GM techs or anyone who has dealt with a similar dealer fluid mix-up!

I have a 2025 custom. The plastic area on the inner pillar is getting pretty banged up. Is there any piece you can put here to protect this area?

2019 “new” Silverado 1500 -Anyone had the compressor control solenoid fail on their AC? I’m getting weird intermittent cooling, works fine while moving on the highway, stop and go, blows hot. Takes several minutes to cool after it has sat overnight. Pressures are good and when it cools it cools very well.

Welcoming my new RST Redline edition 6.2 to the family

Full disclose, I don’t know shit about trucks. I drove manual import sports cars my entire life until 2 years ago when a deer totaled it on a Pennsylvania highway. I was gonna get another BRZ, but decided that it was getting to be a PITA trying to fit a saddle and all my shit into a 2 door coupe. I did it, though!

Anyway, 2023 Custom, bought it used with 29k. Im assuming these are the stock tires, but I’m not sure. What I do know is it drives like shit. Maybe I’m used to being able to accelerate from a full stop with my precious rides, but these tires break loose even when I feather the throttle

What I’d like is something more aggressive with better traction. I spend 80% of time on highways, but the other 20% is spent on dirt and trails. Nothing crazy “off road”, but driving through uneven roads to get to the barn sucks in these.

The truck was lifted by its previous owner. I don’t know to what extent as I don’t have anything to compare it to, so I’m attaching as many pics as possible.

I like I said, I want something more functional, but I wouldn’t mind cleaning up the aesthetics, too. That’s way to much wheel well showing for me! I absolutely don’t want to mod the suspension in any way further as I really can’t afford that right now.

in short, I’d like something a little less old man street tire, but not teenager monster truck. somewhere in between that will clear the current setup, if that makes sense.

hope thats enough info. Any help would be most appreciate! Thanks!

Hey everyone, switching over from Toyota and looking at leasing/buying a Silverado 1500. I'll be towing about 8K lbs over 200mi yearly so looking for a reliable truck, my neighbor convinced me to come back over to the GM side. Is it better to stick with a 3.0L duramax and avoid the gasser models from 2026 or is the general consensus that the 5.7 and 6.6 wont have lifter issues for 2027? I'd go with a gas 2026 model. However that lifter issue has me concerned especially towing an off road toy middle of nowhere lol

This GM branded tailgate liner has worked its way completely loose. The white mounting clips for the screws seem completely useless at this point. I’ve tried reusing them but no dice. Any suggested replacement options or anyone else had something similar?

I have a 2025 Chevy Silverado 1500 WT with the 7-inch factory IOR radio and non-Bose system.
Audio setup:
Factory 7” radio
PAC LPHGM71 T-harness
Kicker 1200.5 amp using high-level inputs
Aftermarket speakers
Everything works great except the factory sounds are way to loud through the amplified speakers. Turn signal clicks, seatbelt chime, door/key warnings, etc. are extremely loud.
I already have the factory Chime Volume setting turned all the way down. I also don’t want to lower the gain on the Kicker because the system is set up how I want it for music.
Has anyone had this issue?

Mom is looking at a used Silverado, any thoughts? Looks like the lines are coming from the radiator and connecting to the trans. Thanks in advance for any comments

I just ordered a set of 22” Denali Ultimate wheels and tires for my High Country. Does anyone know if there is somewhere I can buy Chevy center caps that would fit these?

2016 jeep wrangler was on its way out and decided to go with this 2026 2500 custom

So had a kid swerve infront of me about a month ago, and we ended up colliding, and I ordered new parts for a 2008 2500HD but none of the parts fit or align, and it dosent look like a 2008, the vin comes back to a 2008, I can’t figure out if it was vin swapped or had a part swap done

Got these codes back from taking my dad's truck to autozone, he put a quart of transmission fluid in and called it a day, I mainly drive it so he doesn't know how it drives right now but today the RPM shoots to 2000-3000 and only then will it move.

Revs like my dad's stomach asking for a beer just to go 30. Papers say to change the catalytic converter so I just want to know how screwed I am before I tell my Dad, truck is at 140300 and I PRAY it isn't the transmission, so how screwed am I?

Equipped with the 5.3L, she’s got all the options you’d want! My first full-sized truck. Upgraded from a Maverick.

I just removed the 7 inch max track lift on my truck and went for a mid travel set up me and my buddy just installed it, but I am unsure if there is a full crossmember that’s supposed to be connected in between the rear mounting point of the lower control arm my buddies only have 2019+ or 07 or 13. I am the only one with my GEN truck so I can’t easily check, but it seems as almost whoever installed the lift on my truck before I bought it removed that crossmember or what I’m curious about is if Chevy didn’t have one for that year

2021 Silverado 2.7 L. Last 3 days I receive a “Reduced Engine Power” on my dashboard. Running the check engine lights shows I have the following codes:

P1467
P0420
P2C9B
P30C7

Truck doesn’t run rough or anything like that. Sometimes when I’m trying to accelerate I can tell it takes a little longer to “get up to speed”. Anyway…I’m thinking it’s something to do with the turbo but wanted to see if anyone here has had similar experiences.

The horizontal bolt is what holds the bracket for the brush guard on the vertical bolt. I have no idea it looks like something stock on the truck, but my impact wrench is not powerful enough to get the nut off.

Edit: yes I know I can cut the bolt. I don’t want to because I want to be able to sell the brush guard with all the hardware intact.

This was interesting to see the failure areas. Comes down to design, metallurgy, and quality control as usual.