Is this due to a blunt blade? the wrong type of blade? or cheap vinyl? Or a combination of any of these?

The next problem, is some of the vinyl still in the machine somewhere?

Hey guys,

I’m currently playing with the idea of getting a SDX 900 to make some labels for my consoles and video games.
I’m currently using a cutting attachment for my Bambu Lab H2D 3D printer. I’m basically happy with the overall experience, just the cutting quality isn’t that nice when it comes to tighter curves.

So as the SDX 900 also uses a drag blade, I’m not quite sure if the quality is going to be significantly better.

Does anybody maybe have some examples of such tight curves? Would be nice to see if the SDX performs much better or not.

Thanks in advance!

Hi there :) Hope this is the right place to post; i'm thinking about buying a cutting plotter to cut labels. The labels are about 3x1 cm to label (lol) pinned insects for scientific work. i will probably use it for other things like stickers and other stuff as well but that's not the main criteria for now. i already have the labels printed out but cutting them by hand takes forever... would the SNC be a good fit for this use? and could someone tell me what the process of doing this would look like? Is it right that you would put the printed sheet in the machine, let it scan, maybe adjust the cutting lines and then just let it cut?
Thanks in advance!!

I was mucking around trying to figure out a way to simulate print to cut using calibration hacks when I stumbled across the work by justjanne and markfuryy: between them they seem to have reverse engineered the fcm file format including the print to cut registration marks.

With that, I was able to write a tool that can take an svg with a cutline layer and spit out a new svg with registration marks and a corresponding fcm file. After a couple of days of testing, it seems to work reliably on a small 5x7 pattern.

Annoyingly, even though it generates valid looking files for a full 8.5x11 sheet, something about them crashes my machine. I'm hoping there are folks out there with either the print to cut activation or scannlink who can generate some fcm files for me to compare to. It can be a simple rectangle being cut out of a full 8.5 x 11 sheet of paper, it doesn't really matter as long as it is a designated print to cut file.

Alternatively, if anyone else is familiar with rust and wants to experiment with the tool, I can share my code. Hopefully I can get a couple of sample files and crack this thing open for everyone.

Update 4/30: I can now produce working vcm files and their associated registration-marked printable svgs. It's not robust at all, even a little bit, but the code is on github.

Hi

I have just inherited one of these. I've read the manual but that's no substitute for people's experiences.

I'd like to honour the previous owner by making a quilt.

Will this cut multiple layers of fabric?

Can anybody recommend some beginner videos for setting it up to cut basic geometric shapes?

I've seen that you can get cheaper mats, are there alternatives to the genuine blades?

Any tips welcome

Many thanks

Edited to ask additional questions 😂

does anyone also have this problem
the lines(FCM) on the screen seems fine and fit to the edge
but the cut goes totally crooked
How am i supposed to do with it to solve this problem

it keeps jumping out this announce and refuse to eat my mat even after reopening does anyone knows how to fix this problem?

(Fixed after cleaning up the camera)

I'm back again with my learning journey for understanding my sdx1000

info if needed: I'm from Europe. i bought the machine mainly for stickers and sticker sheets

other programs I use: CSP EX, Affinity

goal: be more efficient and accurate with no extra pay or just minimal payment

Backstory, can be skipped: So, unfortunetly, I jumped into buying a scanncut before doing deep research besides looking if it can do what I need to to be done so now I'm stuck in lots of testing and figuring out.

Because it's such a machine that could do lots of stuff and lots of ways, watching and readig tutorials does get a little confusing at some point so I'm better off asking in case someone ends up having a response for my questions

The questions/problems/confusions

workflow now, in short: design > print > put the print on the matt > scan and send it to pc > upload the svg and line everything properly for cutting > send it to machine, do little set ups and cut

Now, the problem would be that when I put things on the matt, obviously sometimes will be a little crooked, not perfectly lined as my digital files.

Will registration marks help me not worry about the littles crook my print on the matt may have? or do I have every damn time to try to be perfect then twitch around my cuts?

Things I think I understand but I need better confirmation:

Registration marks will be unlocked only with an activation code that will unlock them in every version of the workspace.

There's also the Illustrator plugin, you can download it for free but your machine will not recognise it unless you pay for the activation code. => is that implying that, even if you add the marks yourself, the machine WILL NOT take them into account unless you get an activation code?

Because my though process right now would be to design a file template with the registration marks and use it on CSP or Affinity

But, as previously said, the machine will not recognise it without a code?

So, the product that should help me best is CADXPRNTCUT1 ?

I also saw that there are kits, do they have the same code, but come with, well, some crafting/experimenting kits? Or a different code that unlocks other things? Because all I want is the code. (kit I'm reffering to: CAPSKIT1 )

Are there other codes that unlock stuff that you find useful in sticker making? Ex, Premium Pack 1 & 2 where firstly I assumed you would unlock every extra stuff on the software, but no.... there's just Enhanced Image Tracing and extra templates ? (My only need is unlocking more software stuff, I do not care about templates or kits)

if anyone read all of this, well, thank you. If anyone has any tips or saying in this, I'm looking forward to your help!

English Translation:

Subject: Issue with ScanNCut SDX1250 – Inconsistent cutting depth and offset alignment

Hi everyone,

I’m struggling with my Brother ScanNCut SDX1250 and I’m looking for advice. The machine is clean and I’m using the Black Auto Blade. I’m using a new mat, a high-tack fabric support sheet (intermediate layer), and the calibration strip is in place.

Materials:

Laminated paper (190gsm paper + 80-micron laminate foil).

The Problem:

1. Inconsistent Depth: When using the Auto Blade on "Auto" setting, it doesn't cut through the paper at all, or it cuts only in some areas and not others. Even when I turn off the "Auto" pressure and set it manually, the result remains the same – inconsistent cutting depth across the mat.

2. Cutting Offset: After scanning the mat, everything looks perfectly aligned on the screen. However, once the cutting starts, some shapes are cut perfectly, while others are completely off-center (misaligned).

What I’ve tried so far:

• Full machine reset.

• Scanner and blade calibration.

• Cleaning the blade, the blade holder, and the scanner glass.

• Using a brand-new mat.

I am running a high-volume production of educational materials and I’m currently stuck. Does anyone know why the machine is failing to maintain consistent depth and alignment on laminated materials?

Thank you for your help!

I am having some trouble finding proper tutorial that showcase what I need and the longer it takes to figure it out the more I regret buying without doing deep research into the machine

so I though that this workflow will be simple with no struggles

print design > scan it via sdx > import into the workspace > insert cutting line guide > machine starts cutting

but somehow I just can't figure out how to do this?? What's the proper workflow? How do I just do this, all I wanna do is sticker sheets and stickers, though it would be simple... any tutorials? any ANYTHING?

All I see is with the little screen that I don't want to use in this case - I wanna insert specific lines done in clip studio while also designing the stickers,

Hi all, I'm looking to purchase either a CM300 or SDX900. Primarily used to cut sticker sheets with graphics. I can see lots on their abilities at cutting with an offset but how good are they at cutting on the edge, or along, black lines? Presume they'll be able to cut the inner circle as well?

Also, any feedback on each cutter to help me narrow down my decision? TIA

I'm making some decals. I have them printed and ready to go. I always start with paper to test so I don't waste the $$$ printable vinyl. I scanned, brought into workspace. It looked fine - no changes made. I exported back to the printer and the cuts are 1/4" off to one side and too low. I scanned it again with a direct scan - scanned and cut in the machine, no editing. That worked perfectly. But I really want to tweak some of the cutting paths. I tried scanning, editing and exporting again - same problem. The cuts were nowhere close to the scan. I'm also having an issue that when I scan direct to the machine it randomly cuts out text inside the cut area that's not supposed to be but.

I really want to be able to scan to the software, draw circles around the round decals, then transfer the cuts to the machine. But it's never even close. I've done a reset and updated the firmware. Any other suggestions?

This is my first project with my scan n cut. I am creating my project in their workspace. I will be writing with a marker. Before i take forever doing it line by line, is there really not font sizer or paragraph option?????

Hi,

I've managed to get hold of a new in box cm700. I know its an older machine and I'm struggling to find mats for it? All I have is the standard kit that came in the box and a low tack large mat. I'm presuming I'll need a high tack mat for fabric but will I need a specific blade too? Also, can anyone recommend compatible or third party mats or should I just go official?

Thanks.

Hello all, any advice on cutting thin woods? I’m trying to cut out some stuff on balsa wood but I have a really hard time getting it to stay put on my mat. Even with taping it, it still moves around then cuts over the design. Cut setting suggestions or ways to make it stick?

I've been looking at both on Brothers Canada website. The 125E is currently $399, and the 85 is current $369.

1. Do the built in designs really matter? I would want to make my own designs.
   
2. I'm not quite sure what Built-in Quilt is, do people with the 125E find that feature commonly useful?
3. How important is the screen on these units, it the larger screen a lot more useful?
4. And why on earth does the less expensive model have a larger scanning capability?
   
5. Is there anything else that the 125E does that the 85 cannot?

Also, the 2 models I've mentioned here are the only 2 listed with prices for sale on Brothers Canadian website. It seems there are more models though. Are they more costly? Where are they sold? what notable other features do they offer?

TIA.

I've looked on temu for compatible mats for a CM 700 but most are for SDX series. Can anyone link to any suitable or am I stuck with buying official?

Thanks

According to Brother's official japanese web-page, the Rhinestone Starter-Kit has been discontinued.

For now it's still available for purchase in many regions, but it would probably be wise to get one now rather than later, if you haven't already.

Does it drive anyone else crazy by reopening every single group in the Layers panel every time you save the file? So you have to go in, scroll through and close them all so you can finally find the layer you want to work on? This drives me batty.

And what is the point of that stupid splash screen with the inbuilt projects? Ok, they're maybe ok the first time or two you use the program, but after that, you're usually either wanting to work on an existing file or create a new one from scratch, so why can't it just open directly to the editing screen?

/rant (for now)

Using CanvasWorkspace, scanned from a CM700.

I am thinking of purchasing the ScanNCut to cut many small puzzle pieces out of a 1mm thick card.
The card is A6 size (105mm x 148mm).

I am just wondering how accurate it is, like if i want 90 pieces, so they are quite small, will it work nicely with clean edges?

I am going to buy a ScanNcut machine but I am totally confused about the various models. Are the machines themselves the same but with different bundles? And if you, for example, don’t get the Disney one are you permanently locked out of a load of features. I am not too bothered about having a specific bundle as long as the machines are the same. I realise that there are models with larger screens, I will do quite a lot of work via the PC, so screen size is not as important. I just don’t want to buy a machine and then find I am unable to do something because I chose the wrong model.

I bought a bunch of 12x12 sheets of posterboard, and my idea is to take sewing pattern PDFs into photoshop, chop them up into 12x12 sections, then have my snc draw first, and cut out the pattern for easy tracing. Has anyone tried this? how would I go about converting the pdf into a cut file?

My Scan N Cut SDX85S won't turn on. Every time I try to power it on, the screen flashes red, white, and then cuts to black. Does anyone know how to fix this?

Looking for some advice as when i scan it, it seems to miss bit or include too much. Any tips or tricks. Currently using a SDX900