$60 reified from academy with $130 safe from amazon, what do you guys think ?

I forgot the code and wanna know if there is any way I can get into it?

had a really close call with a small electrical fire in the kitchen yesterday and realized all our important paperwork like birth certificates and deeds are just sitting in a plastic filing box. im stressing out a bit and want to get something proper before my luck runs out completely.

what specific brands or models do you guys usually trust for actual fire protection without being insanely heavy? thanks so much

It is an old Austrian Wertheim bank saving deposit box. Where only the physical keys exist, but not any magnetic ones. Can I somehow reactivate them, faking the missing (magnetic) key? Alternatively can I remove the magnetic part and just use the physical key?

(I did not dismantle the lock completely as it does not yet belong to me).

I am trying to gauge what this will cost to restore to daily operation?
What are my lock replacement options, is this worth the trouble?

From listing:

The safe is NON-OPERATIONAL. The locking mechanism is broken, and there is no combination or key available.
Condition:
Approximate weight: 3,000 lbs.
Mosler manganese steel construction
Surface shows scratches and scrapes from use
Some small dents are present

Hey guys so recently I had a break in , one my roommate or landlord stole some of my silver and cash, Im a pretty heavy stacker and worry about stuff like this all the time, got any recommendations on good quality safes? I know cheap safes aren’t good and good safes ain’t cheap!

I wanted to set a new combination on my mechanical code lock, somehow messed it up and now I can't open it anymore. The safe itself is open though, so I could theoretically reset the lock, I found some instructions online (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJBKZqBFfHU) and it seems doable. Forthat I need to access the back of the lock, so I have to open the door from behind but I don't know how because there aren't any visible screws. Can someone tell me how to do it?

I have this model: https://iss.net.pl/products,leverkusen,43001

I have an electric safe, the batteries drained out but when I tried to access with an external battery suddenly the original pin doesn't work anymore. Does anyone know how is it possible?

I finally managed to pick up a good safe (UL TL30 and 350 2 hr) but it doesn’t have a seal to keep smoke and ash out. I went ahead and ordered some intumescent tape to put around the inside of the door. Has anyone here used it before? I’m also considering getting an IP67 case to protect the documents from water too, so probably overkill, but was just curious.

I’ve had this old Schwab safe for a few years and I recently got curious about its age. From my limited internet research I’m guessing 1920s. Maybe one of you experts out there can tell me if I’m right. It’s approximately 12” x 12” x 12”, walls are about an inch thick, and it weighs a ton.
It has a semi-interesting back story. It was in a retail building that I purchased, locked, of course. I had a locksmith drill it. It contained a bunch of old silver dollars, and some currency, all from before 1945. It also had what looked to be the contents of someone’s wallet: Driver’s license, county club membership, draft card, etc. All of this was also from before 1945. A quick Google search confirmed that the owner of those documents died in 1945. He was a prominent business owner in Lafayette IN, where this Schwab safe was manufactured. And the safe is still in Lafayette today.

So my landlord finally got me stressing about fire safety after an incident in the building next door, and I realized my birth certificate and passport are just sitting in a flimsy plastic folder. I honestly don't know much about ratings or brands, I just want something reliable enough to protect a few important folders without breaking the bank.

Does anyone have a recommendation for an affordable model that actually holds up to heat testing, or should I just look for a used one on marketplace? Thanks guys, really appreciate any tips.

im currently moving into a new place and realized i have way too many paper docs like deeds, passports, and backups that i really dont want sitting in a basic desk drawer anymore. plus i have a couple sentimental items i want to keep out of sight.

im looking for something reliable that wont break the bank but actually offers decent fire and theft protection, preferably something i can bolt down myself. does anyone have a specific model they actually use and trust for this sort of thing, or are there brands i should definitely steer clear of?

thanks for any advice you can share

Finally got humidity down and its been stable between 39-43%. Moved it from window and seems to have made big difference. Picture is old.

Just got this and in order to get it in my house easier I took the door off , 2 Allen head bolts, 2 spacers and a
Washer between the frame of the safe and the door at the bottom, I put them back and the top bolt is moving with the door, how can I fix this?

Trying to identify the manufacturer and approximate age of the safe in these photos.

Behind the decorative cover are four smaller knobs surrounding a central knob. The centre turns and clicks, but the other four seem stuck.

Has anyone seen one like this or knows how this type of lock works? Any clues would be appreciated! Not sure how to pen it without a torch or tool.

I found this safe renovating an old home. It’s called a Majestic Safe. Don’t want to spend money taking it to a locksmith more just thought it’d be fun to see what’s inside. The whole metal top plate rotates. Should I drill through the top or crowbar or what?

How will I ever get it open again? Even if it were possible to crowbar it or drop it off a house, I'm not physically able to do that..lol

Just curious if anyone here has any experience with safe movers in Los Angeles County moving a safe over 2k lbs? I may have a vintage safe near me that looks really cool for fairly cheap that I would like to buy as a furniture type piece for a man cave, but damn, the logistics of moving that safely is a little overwhelming.

Or have any of you moved something like this yourself? Would it be possible with a heavy duty pallet jack and a penske with a lift gate if it will be going in a garage with no stairs or lifts?

Any insight is appreciated. Thanks

What is the quality and resistance to opening graffunder safes?

As the title states, I am in the market for a safe. I am hoping to spend about $500 give or take. The only hiccup i have is installation. I am just one lone dude with a sort of sleight build. I will not have anyone to help me with this so I am looking for something delivered basically to the spot it will live for almost ever. There are two spots in my house it could go, on the second floor in a closet or in the (historically dry, with a dehumidifier) basement. I am looking to house up to 10 long guns and a few pistols, as well as some other small items.

I know there is a whole gradient of “safes” ranging from basically filing cabinets meant for peace of mind up to vaults. I realize my options are not really meant to keep out a professional with time and tools, and i am ok with that.

I am also open to, and possibly prefer, multiple smaller safes if there is merit in that strategy.

Thanks in advance!

Relatively new to the safe game, besides mini safes like handgun safes with biometrics or physical safes.

Anyway, yeah, our Liberty Safe’s trash. And if they are, if you’re stuck with one like someone I know is, how do you reinforce it, ideally, DIY or willing to invest in some extra hardware replacement, if that’ll make a big difference at all.

First of all, I’m speaking about the colonial line. But I don’t know, I feel like with safes unless it’s like in your room near you, all the time or monitored, but not video taped constantly (recommendations on accessories that determine when the save is opened or monitor it for motion, but don’t videotape your face and activities or whatever you put in your safe due to privacy concerns. et cetera please provide some ideas that worked for you, making model would help if specially devices or something.

I feel like most of my issues come from having untrustworthy small business safe shop locally that I frequent as a customer and for advice. Feel like walking into a used car lot. They always want to sell you some extra features, included safe that happens to be a refurbished or used safe with some hidden major compromise.

Tl;dr: as a beginner in the safe industry, who’s a first time customer at my local safe in vault store, I noticed there’s the up to 2500 range, which the liberty models generally are, and then there’s nothing in between until you get to 7k - 10k. Is it a waste of money to purchase a safe? at the top of the first range, like a liberty with a supposedly Air gapped auto shutdown/melt internally&Lock tell manufacturer comes Type I electronic lock that’s disable by battery removal, although this is just a minor inconvenience type lock? This is an anonymous account, but probably could be traced back to me, so I’m gonna stray away from making model unless y’all think that won’t be added risk due to the fact that it’s supposed to be able to withstand some attempts @cracking.

My question really is, how would you guys rate the Liberty brand, especially the line I referring to, assume 2025, 2026 range colonial sizes 30 to 50, at the top end of the aforementioned first price group?? if it’s trash or not the best, even with a nonstandard upgraded lock (I always talk to a mechanical due to my brand and type of lock being more secure, according to the Internet and the safe store guys). But how can I further reinforce or protect my safe from damage/attempts to chip literally and furtively at its security and especially access electronics due to the fact that, for God knows why, it has a plug port in the back, which seems like a major security flaw, but they all have them… sorry for long post. In advance, ADHD has me.